Kraton Kraton V3 Front Camber Adjustment

Bump!! I have the same problem, I'm new to the hobby and thought maybe it was normal but can't get this thing to go straight or fix the horrendous wheel wobble....

im also in the same boat #car** the left wheel is more cambered than the right and im not sure how to correct this??

Keep in mind you do want some negative camber & front toe out, as your RC will handle & drive better. However, if camber is excessive, you may need to adjust/shim the pivot ball/upper arms. Since the suspension arm spacers are the only way to adjust this, Arrma should have included some extras, so we can at least adjust the camber, especially when some RTR's come needing adjustment. Or, why did Arrma not design & include a shim in the bottom suspension arm also, as we could just remove it, and negative camber would then be fixed. Ha, too easy...

Unfortunately, it looks like these suspension arm shims are not available separately, & only available if you buy Arrma's front upper arms (which includes 6, but no shim thickness specs), or if you buy their steering blocks, which includes 4 shims total; (2) 0.5mm & & (2) 1.0mm thick shims.

I just happened to have my spare Kraton steering blocks & suspension arms (which just arrived from JennysRC-great prices by the way), & I took some measurements with my caliper. It looks like 6x12 washers should work well (& washers will not move or possibly come out, so maybe even better & longer lasting than Arrma's spacers), but will be more time consuming to install (have to unscrew your pivot balls), & definitely not as easy to fine tune the camber. However, once camber is adjusted, it should not need adjusting again. Besides 6x12 washers, as small as 6x10 washers may also work (lots of choices in this size) & even as large as a 6x13 washer may also work. I found 5 different thickness sizes (.2, .3, .5, 1mm & 1.5mm). FYG, the .5 & 1mm thick washers are the same thickness as the Arrma suspension arm shims. If camber is excessively out, maybe even the 1.5mm washer? Note, it may take too many .2 & .3mm washers to adjust camber, unless really fine tuning?

I used some E-clips which can be easily removed.

nulli said:

I used some E-clips which can be easily removed.

Click to expand...

Good tip nulli. When looking at the upper suspension arm spacers, I was wondering if e-clips might work. I gather you used 6mm e-clips? I see some 6mm e-clips are 0.6mm thick, so almost the same thickness as Arrma's spacers. If camber is out quite a bit out, could maybe use a washer 1st, than e-clips for fine tuning?

Most likely 6mm but I grabbed every size the store had and then some to be sure. I think mines are 0.7mm thick. 1 up & 2 lower makes about 0.7mm & 1.4mm. Not sure what sort of camber these things ought to have but I'm most of all pleased there's no binding in the steering/dogbone/pillow ball system.

thank everyone for the replies for some reason I never got a notification that people had replied. I had done what was suggested and picked up some 6mm washers. I am like you guys/gals you would think Arrma would either sell the spacers separate or at least include a few in the box.

I see this is a post by a few new members figured I'd share a little info about my experience with my camber. Out of the box after programmng my dad setting all my variables the way I want then if your having camber issues up front then adjust it using the 5mm link to adjust it. You can do it by listening the pillow balls and a humming but if you think about it by adding shims you are decreasing the amount of the pillow ball stud into the a arm which has an effect of the tensile strength of the plastic and is gonna compromise a arm I guarantee it happened to me before I knew how to tune my rig if you have any questions send me a message I can walk u thro a out every 8th scale arrma sense the only 1 I dnt have is the talion and of course the Nero big rock because I dnt like the diff brain.

Where is the 5mm Link, can you show us a picture

The rear has a link instead of upper A-ARMS, that's how you can adjust the rest camber. Only toe adjustment on the rear is shimming at the lower control arms. Shims are how you adjust camber on the front, use the turnbuckles on the front that actually turn your tires to adjust the front toe

Changing rear toe requires different hinge pin blocks. DEX8T parts might still work.

No it doesn't

I've adjusted mine without them, and I have performed thousands of alignments. It's no different on an R/C, just gotta know how to adjust the tires to lean or point in the direction you would like for them to..... And of all people, you again.... you just can't stay away from people that don't like you, can you?

I'd be curious to know how to change the lower hinge pin angles with shims??

Not changing the hinge pin angles, changing the tire/wheel angles buddy!!! There's a few ways to adjust the alignment, not just how they say you have to

If anyone needs the shims, these work -
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=003058064&I=LXDPSD&P=K

Jerry-rigged said:

If anyone needs the shims, these work -
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=003058064&I=LXDPSD&P=K

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I wondered if those Mugen suspension arm spacers might work, but already ordered up a bunch of 6mm (inside diameter) aluminum shims with different O.D. and different thickness and will try those, just will take longer to get camber just right. However, once camber is set, I like the idea of aluminum shims instead of the plastic suspension arm spacers. I'm also trying some aluminum shims on the upper arm hinge pins. I got a bunch of 4mm I.D. shims with various thickness, and believe this will be better and should remove some arm slop.

PSM has some very nice 7075 aluminum spacers (in 6 different thickness sizes) that "should fit" on the Arrma pivot balls, but I was afraid of possibly losing any if pivot balls loosen and come out or spacer just falls off, as these are not cheap. I'm now using teflon thread tape on pivot balls.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/psm-al...hange-shim-set-0.4-0.7-0.8mm-psm01775/p612565

https://www.amainhobbies.com/psm-al...-change-shim-set-1.0-1.2-1.4-psm01774/p612564

I would also be interested in how to adjust the rear toe? Adjusting the front 4mm thick steering turnbuckles, adjusts toe in, toe out and by shimming the front upper arms you can adjust camber or caster. However, you do not want any caster (when the top of the tires are leaning outwards) and you usually should have a bit of camber (top of tire leans inward), plus usually a bit more camber in the front than the rear is a good place to start. In the front, you want some toe out, which is the opposite to the rear, where you want some toe in.

The rear camber is adjusted by the 5mm upper turnbuckles. However,to change the rear toe in, you would need to change to different degree rear hub carriers which are not available, or change to different degree rear arm hinge blocks?

The rear toe in is set by Arrma for a reason. If you change this, you will affect the driveability as less toe in will be extremely hard to drive and handle under power, especially in a straight line. My AE Rival MT has both upper and lower suspension arms in the rear, but also has rear turnbuckles behind the arms that allows you to adjust the rear toe in. However, this is uncommon, as most vehicles it is not easy to adjust the rear toe in, if at all.

Like I said, DEX8T rear hinge pin blocks & inserts could do the trick, if you can find any and if they even fit...