Hello, I'm new to the RC world finally getting a 1/8 scale Talion. Don't know much about RC any recommendations greatly appreciated. is there any upgrade parts ( before stock parts break) or best tune to hit 70+mph speeds, best setup. please help lol
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If you are new to RC, I would say start with stock, 4s. These cars have tons of power, and at 40+ trees, curbs, and other stuff that normally doesn't move will seem to leap out if front of the car... And while Arrma's are tough, +50mph crashes WILL break stuff.
As far as upgrades, a better servo is high on the list. Maybe buy some good pinions, like Tekno or Robinson Racing. Shim the diffs (see the sticky thread the Chassis forum), maybe bump the center diff up to 100k fluid ,and make sure the front and rear are topped off with 10k. Get a spare set of bearings on hand, one or two of the stock ones sometimes fail quick.
Oh, and don't go cheap on the charger. It can seem hard to drop $150-$200 on a beefy charger, when there are 50w chargers all over the interwebs for $30-$50. But you run 4s and 6s, you need lots of watts. Shoot for 200w-300w per channel, on what ever charger you decided to get.
As far as upgrades, a better servo is high on the list. Maybe buy some good pinions, like Tekno or Robinson Racing. Shim the diffs (see the sticky thread the Chassis forum), maybe bump the center diff up to 100k fluid ,and make sure the front and rear are topped off with 10k. Get a spare set of bearings on hand, one or two of the stock ones sometimes fail quick.
Oh, and don't go cheap on the charger. It can seem hard to drop $150-$200 on a beefy charger, when there are 50w chargers all over the interwebs for $30-$50. But you run 4s and 6s, you need lots of watts. Shoot for 200w-300w per channel, on what ever charger you decided to get.
Depending on the version of your Talion I would recommend getting the chassis braces and servo mounts from either GKA, Voltage Hobbies or Hot Racing.
You're probably going to want new pinion gears to try different ratios, which Robinson Racing make great gears to check out. And certainly a temp gun to keep an eye on your temps while doing speed runs.
You're probably going to want new pinion gears to try different ratios, which Robinson Racing make great gears to check out. And certainly a temp gun to keep an eye on your temps while doing speed runs.
Great point. Realize that the higher you gear the truck, the quicker the motor will get hot. People that are set up for speed runs generally only do one or two passes, then let the car cool down... For constant running, 6s, 50mph will push the limits of what you can do heat wise.
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- #5
Awesome Thanks man I look into getting chargers and batteries Currently looking at Venom brand? Thoughts? and for sure ill be looking at upgrading servo and best shocks for mid jumps 5ft-15ft jumps . I heard PL makes good ones?
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- #6
The Hobby guy told me to fan motor and ESC
shocks, just change the fluid to something a bit thicker, maybe 80wt, and SEND IT!
Sure but that only goes so far. Adding a fan to the motor and ESC doesn't magically rid you of all heat issues, sure they help but even with a fan you can easily burn stuff up with the "right" gearing. Without knowing your temps you'll never know if you're getting to that mark or not.
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If you bash it (someday you will ) get yourself a set of T-Bone bumpers, they saved my rc's multiple times from total destruction!
) get yourself a set of T-Bone bumpers, they saved my rc's multiple times from total destruction!- Thread starter
- #10
So getting some sensors that can read that. is that a process for installation a sensor possible?
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- #11
Is that what you use. 80wt Major jumps?shocks, just change the fluid to something a bit thicker, maybe 80wt, and SEND IT!
I don't do huge jumps. Seems that most of they guys that do, run 80wt or similar, though.
A thought on the charger - you seem to be looking at having an end goal of running 6s. Realize that 6s batteries need big wattage chargers. a 5000mah 6s pack needs a bit over 100w, and the 7400mah SMC that everyone likes needs around 175w. This is for 1C charging - which is about one hour charge time for a full charge. Also, you should not plan on plan on running a charger at 100% output, so you really need about 200w per channel for a good 6s charger.
If your plan is to run 2x3s packs, and stick with 5000mah-6000mah packs, then you can get something like the Venom 4x80w charger. It will charge 4 packs at once, and a 5000mah 3s pack only needs about 60w for 1c charging - so that charger can have 2 "runs" worth of batteries ready in about an hour.
A thought on the charger - you seem to be looking at having an end goal of running 6s. Realize that 6s batteries need big wattage chargers. a 5000mah 6s pack needs a bit over 100w, and the 7400mah SMC that everyone likes needs around 175w. This is for 1C charging - which is about one hour charge time for a full charge. Also, you should not plan on plan on running a charger at 100% output, so you really need about 200w per channel for a good 6s charger.
If your plan is to run 2x3s packs, and stick with 5000mah-6000mah packs, then you can get something like the Venom 4x80w charger. It will charge 4 packs at once, and a 5000mah 3s pack only needs about 60w for 1c charging - so that charger can have 2 "runs" worth of batteries ready in about an hour.
RCROD
Active Member
I definitely recommend a temp gun, which is more important than a motor fan. I've used the Duratrax (DTXP3100) Flashpoint Infrared Temp gun for quite a few years now, with no problems. The V3 Talion already has 80wt (1000cst) shock oil from the factory, so should not need changing. The shocks do not need upgrading either, as the V3 shocks have been upgraded with 4mm shock shafts & much more durable.
Also the new improved V3 servo mount on the Talion does not need upgrading. There is some slight movement, but looks like it is just from the servo rubber grommets. However, I did notice my V3 Kraton servo does move a bit & possibly may need a better servo mount. This is probably due to Kraton's larger tires + the Talion servo mount position has been changed (now lengthwise). I will be replacing these rubber servo grommets on both my Talion & Kraton with some solid servo spacers. After this, I expect the Talion servo should be nice and solid, but not sure about the Kraton servo mount, as it may need upgrading?
I agree with JvG, T-bone bumpers are a great upgrade as they provide great protection in a crash or bad landing. TBR bumpers also have a front skid plate to protect underside of chassis. I am trying to keep my new Talion as light as possible, so I went with TBR's lightest front bumper (Typhon Basher #10007). Since the underneath of the chassis can wear & take a beating, I also got (RPM 81442) rear skid plate, which is also very light. Here's the link to TBR (T-Bone Racing): https://tboneracing.net/
I also recommend some rear mud guards (attach to lower suspension arms) to protect back end (shocks, arms, rear dogbones, turnbuckles, etc) from all the debris/rocks flying back off the front wheels.
I agree with jerry-rigged & also recommend a hardened pinion from Tekno or Robinson Racing. I'm going with a 16T in my Talion. The V3 Talion already has 100k in center diff. I did get an extra bearing kit from Fast Eddy (works out to a $1/bearing)
Also the new improved V3 servo mount on the Talion does not need upgrading. There is some slight movement, but looks like it is just from the servo rubber grommets. However, I did notice my V3 Kraton servo does move a bit & possibly may need a better servo mount. This is probably due to Kraton's larger tires + the Talion servo mount position has been changed (now lengthwise). I will be replacing these rubber servo grommets on both my Talion & Kraton with some solid servo spacers. After this, I expect the Talion servo should be nice and solid, but not sure about the Kraton servo mount, as it may need upgrading?
I agree with JvG, T-bone bumpers are a great upgrade as they provide great protection in a crash or bad landing. TBR bumpers also have a front skid plate to protect underside of chassis. I am trying to keep my new Talion as light as possible, so I went with TBR's lightest front bumper (Typhon Basher #10007). Since the underneath of the chassis can wear & take a beating, I also got (RPM 81442) rear skid plate, which is also very light. Here's the link to TBR (T-Bone Racing): https://tboneracing.net/
I also recommend some rear mud guards (attach to lower suspension arms) to protect back end (shocks, arms, rear dogbones, turnbuckles, etc) from all the debris/rocks flying back off the front wheels.
I agree with jerry-rigged & also recommend a hardened pinion from Tekno or Robinson Racing. I'm going with a 16T in my Talion. The V3 Talion already has 100k in center diff. I did get an extra bearing kit from Fast Eddy (works out to a $1/bearing)
Harbor Freight sells the same thermometer for $12. This is what I use.
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html
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- #16
Awesome man thanks for taking time ill most def be looking at this extras to have on my Talion. Ill be posting a pic later when I get home lol
Quebecois_Sti
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I have the 2018 model for few weeks now and I just broke some stuff.
Here's the parts/tips I recommend for a new buyer:
- RPM Front & Rear A-Arms
- RPM Wing Mount
- For the basher that likes to rides around without caring too much: RPM Front Bumper, it do a skid plate as well
- If running in water/snow: have in hand some oil like WD-40 or silicone lubricant. Make the car dry first and lubricate on bearing and spray pretty much all screw or metal parts. The screws are going to rust pretty fast!
- Have in spare some ball cups or even best, the kit set that includes few differents items. Much better to have some in hand otherwise it's a pain when you want to ride and missing some parts...
I saw someone told the idea of rubber spray inside the body, i'm pretty sure it's gonna last longer!
I love the center brace idea from this guy:
and he done some other videos for DIY upgrades too, check out his channel
Here's the parts/tips I recommend for a new buyer:
- RPM Front & Rear A-Arms
- RPM Wing Mount
- For the basher that likes to rides around without caring too much: RPM Front Bumper, it do a skid plate as well
- If running in water/snow: have in hand some oil like WD-40 or silicone lubricant. Make the car dry first and lubricate on bearing and spray pretty much all screw or metal parts. The screws are going to rust pretty fast!
- Have in spare some ball cups or even best, the kit set that includes few differents items. Much better to have some in hand otherwise it's a pain when you want to ride and missing some parts...
I saw someone told the idea of rubber spray inside the body, i'm pretty sure it's gonna last longer!
I love the center brace idea from this guy:
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- #18
Thanks man, I already have the RPM A-arms, just waiting for stocks to break lol. Actually I ran it in snow this past weekend but didn't add any proctectant on it. Should I? I want a red (rpm) bumper not to big from OEM. skid plates and rear bumper are on my list to get. Really appreciate your input.I have the 2018 model for few weeks now and I just broke some stuff.
Here's the parts/tips I recommend for a new buyer:
- RPM Front & Rear A-Arms
- RPM Wing Mount
- For the basher that likes to rides around without caring too much: RPM Front Bumper, it do a skid plate as well
- If running in water/snow: have in hand some oil like WD-40 or silicone lubricant. Make the car dry first and lubricate on bearing and spray pretty much all screw or metal parts. The screws are going to rust pretty fast!
- Have in spare some ball cups or even best, the kit set that includes few differents items. Much better to have some in hand otherwise it's a pain when you want to ride and missing some parts...
I saw someone told the idea of rubber spray inside the body, i'm pretty sure it's gonna last longer!
I love the center brace idea from this guy:and he done some other videos for DIY upgrades too, check out his channel
Also a must do is buying turn buckles to brace your wing mount from both sides of the bolt at the back of mount under the wing to your 2 rear bumper bolts i want to say the talion was 3 1/2in turn buckles but Measure it to b sure i did mine along time ago and haven't snapped a wing mount or the little brace that bolts from it to the diff housing since....b4 that Every other bash one or both would bust
