Differential oil weight tips

Is there any point using the same relative stock ratio of weights? For example, a stock Kraton has 7k, 10k and 5k (front to rear). A popular centre choice seems to be 100k which would make the others 70k/50k but would this be too much for the front/rear diffs?

I'm looking for a setup which balances the strain between the drivetrain components and therefore increases longevity.

If you are not trying to crawl / trail ride, I don't see the point of going thick in the front and rear. I use 10k/125k/10k in the Kraton and 5k/125k/5k in my Typhon. If you see right/left ballooning, then go up in the front / rear.

Thanks for the tip. Going up from 10k to 100k or more seems like a big step to me but then again I'm quite new to this hobby.
9k/80k/9k would be available from a local shop so I might use that.

EDIT

10k & 80k now. I will try 100k later.

I think 100K is to much. I have used a bunch of different weights in my outcast. I think my favorite combo is a hot racing locked rear, 60K center, and 30K up front. It makes it super fun to bash around.

I have the typhon and I wanted the center diff to send power a little more evenly, I have some spare 2000 wt diff oil sitting around, do you think it would work fine?

Headbangerfacerip said:

I think 100K is to much. I have used a bunch of different weights in my outcast. I think my favorite combo is a hot racing locked rear, 60K center, and 30K up front. It makes it super fun to bash around.

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Interesting choice - most people would lock the center before the rear. Do you do that to make it drift more? Have you tried the locker in the Center?

dabmore said:

its 7000 front and rear. 10,000 center

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does that hold for the big rock, I was gonna use 200k center 60k f/r??? seems heavy but im new

83N said:

1. As a guess, I'd imagine it was like my Kraton and filled with machine grease (approx. 1000cst) - Consider cleaning out and replacing with 30k-50k cst silicone oil.
2. Yes.
3. When they break, leak or you want to change the driving characteristics of your car.
4. Not really. It's thin and will be flicked off and ultimately only provide lubrication for a short period of time. Also, mineral oils and petroleum products aren't great for rubber o-rings and seals.
5. For all oils and lubricants on an RC, I'd suggest using silicone-based oils. Diff oil - 30,000 cst - 50,000 cst. I use Team Associated oils because my hobby store sells it. Shock oil - No idea - Guess at 700 cst?

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F/R/C/ OILS FOR BIG ROCK, LOOKING TO SEE GENERAL CONSENSUS IS ON THIS!!

83N said:

Consider cleaning out and replacing with 30k-50k cst silicone oil.

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I've got all of my pieces together to work on my Talion this weekend. I'm wondering what others are using to clean off the diff gears, as I keep reading that Arrma generally uses a lithium based grease instead of an oil. Are there specific cleaners I should be looking at, or are items such as brake cleaner and WD-40 going to work out alright?

Dingo said:

I've got all of my pieces together to work on my Talion this weekend. I'm wondering what others are using to clean off the diff gears, as I keep reading that Arrma generally uses a lithium based grease instead of an oil. Are there specific cleaners I should be looking at, or are items such as brake cleaner and WD-40 going to work out alright?

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VERY EASY, DENATURED ALCOhol, and a compressor, also electrical contact like circuit board spray, I posted pics somewhere, ,soak them in denatured alcohol overnight, get a towel or rag, wipe excess grease off, and like stated, compressor and some spray, they'll be like out of a package, as a rule of thumb, EVERYONE IN this hob y should have a can of denatured alcohol in garage, doesn't hurt plastic etc, I When race season comes I also use, with is beyond word, mix water w/some simple green 5 minutes in the ULTRASONIC 2.5qt minimal, I have a 5qt, depends on $$..its large jewelry cleaners, hey if they use to clean 20k diamond rings, think about how good its gonna clean your rc, I'm making/filming this build piece by piece, I know most are bashers, but they'll be something in there for everyone, PROMISE.....
Its all about fun, and maintenance isa must guys, not as much as I do, but I'm racing for free parts essentially, so I have to stay on top of my game, depending on how u run your model, thru mud etc....theres a chem for everything, no bs I have 2k worth of EVERY SPRAY/PROTECTANT/CLEANER/DEGREASER/ on the market I'm always on the hunt for the better product...CLP is another must, in the Marine Corp, we used on rebuilding our rifles, in Kosovo I was chest deep I'm snow, gun covered, still never jammed, and we defiantly had a fight,

agin message me guys,i love to help.....this all started w/a rc to get my son in and I saw a need here....be proud of your machines, poop I talk to mine before Raceday, night before...she's gota name LOL, Betsy,.,,..

I mat be a lil crazy, but I believe YOU GET OUT, WHAT YOU PUT IN, and that apple's to everything we do in this life...so u want a rusty muddy, suspension not doing crap, break-in parts cause models not working right for you, either you don't care or know... my cars run right.....thats all I know...and if they don't, I figure out the problem...and fix it....

Dingo said:

I've got all of my pieces together to work on my Talion this weekend. I'm wondering what others are using to clean off the diff gears, as I keep reading that Arrma generally uses a lithium based grease instead of an oil. Are there specific cleaners I should be looking at, or are items such as brake cleaner and WD-40 going to work out alright?

Click to expand...

also wd-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT, ITS. a rust preventative, don't believe me, spray some on your metal basis if you have one, the underside, get a blowdryer, watch it all smoke off..than feel, no do same thing with say a silicone LUBRICANT it'll smoke as thats the same ingredient in wd-40, but difference, is, after it smokes/dry's chassis bottom, will be slick!, aka lubricated...

alot of people don't get the purpose of wd-40, and its not your fault, they advertise it wrong..... u learn alot about treating metal's /coating/ protecting, etc in the USMC.....last thing you need is a gun jamming, cause you used a rain-x product for metal essentially!!!!

CLP LOOK IT UP...YOUR BEST FRIEND IN THE WORLD!!!!!
you may be surprised..
C= Cleaner
L=Lubricant
P=Protectant...thats ur wd-40.....

Tblazin said:

also wd-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT, ITS. a rust preventative, don't believe me, spray some on your metal basis if you have one, the underside, get a blowdryer, watch it all smoke off..than feel, no do same thing with say a silicone LUBRICANT it'll smoke as thats the same ingredient in wd-40, but difference, is, after it smokes/dry's chassis bottom, will be slick!, aka lubricated...

alot of people don't get the purpose of wd-40, and its not your fault, they advertise it wrong..... u learn alot about treating metal's /coating/ protecting, etc in the USMC.....last thing you need is a gun jamming, cause you used a rain-x product for metal essentially!!!!

CLP LOOK IT UP...YOUR BEST FRIEND IN THE WORLD!!!!!
you may be surprised..
C= Cleaner
L=Lubricant
P=Protectant...thats ur wd-40.....

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Quickest way I know of to rust a bearing or chain is to spray it down with WD40 and then let it sit. Or use it. WD = Water Displacing. Not Rust Protection. You are right that it is not a lube either.

WD40 is not bad, but it is use wrong by 90% of folks out there...

Tblazin said:

also wd-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT, ITS. a rust preventative,

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I'm well aware of this, and didn't indicate that I would be storing any pieces after using it on them. It is a solvent which can help break down some of the grease that's used inside the Arrma diffs. This was the question I was asking, and hoping that there may be a more efficient way of degreasing the diffs.

I'm unsure of why you got all riled up. I understand that you're trying to be helpful, but if this is the type of response that people get from asking an innocuous question, I think I'll find another more hospitable location to research.

Dingo said:

I'm well aware of this, and didn't indicate that I would be storing any pieces after using it on them. It is a solvent which can help break down some of the grease that's used inside the Arrma diffs. This was the question I was asking, and hoping that there may be a more efficient way of degreasing the diffs.

I'm unsure of why you got all riled up. I understand that you're trying to be helpful, but if this is the type of response that people get from asking an innocuous question, I think I'll find another more hospitable location to research.

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Your took my response the wrong way, Believe me my intentions are not to discourage a newcomer/expert/pro, whatever someone is, its a open forum, to share idea, thoughts, etc....simply put////, Once again, I assure you I was not riled up at all...Honestly, I say it all the time, WORLD WARS CAN START FROM TEXTING..... u can';t detect sarcasm, seriousness, and if a stranger, ??? Sorry you took it that way...Really, hang around....

And to help the best I can, you were kinda vague in question, brake cleaner, thats good for , say cleaning the grease out of a METAL diff cup, etc, In my experience, grab a can of $12 a gallon Denatured Alcohol, can use on plastics, soak bearings and gears for days with no threat of any type or rust/oxidation, etc...and a empty spray bottle, if you have kids, POISEN WITH A BIG OLE' X.,.,.,.,., is how I label that, and I store in sop up top, last thing I need is a child spraying another in the eyes etc, with that stuff, but ive soaked bearings, for a week. blew out w/compressor, not a dab leg tin there, and I was so anal, back than, I removed the rubber shields, with the sharpest, thinnest pointiest, exact tip you can find, in order to not damage the rubber seal, been doing it for YEARS,.....start with cheap bearings, is a tip, I do it with ceramics now, as thats all I run in any rc...for many reasons, there worth there weight in gold!!!!

Jerry-rigged said:

Quickest way I know of to rust a bearing or chain is to spray it down with WD40 and then let it sit. Or use it. WD = Water Displacing. Not Rust Protection. You are right that it is not a lube either.

WD40 is not bad, but it is use wrong by 90% of folks out there...

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yes, and I blame WD-40, they advertise it very sneaky, Now they have specific selection I've seen, contact spray, etc, but the WD originally stood for, simply, Water Displacement.....

Jerry-rigged said:

Interesting choice - most people would lock the center before the rear. Do you do that to make it drift more? Have you tried the locker in the Center?

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Yes I like when it skates around.

On the Arrma Site Manual and Download SInce I own a Tailon BLX For the F/R Diff on Page 36



And Page 38 Center diff


You'll find the info we are after. my question is since the factory Oil is N/A that will be our choice to use what is best for our needs. There is Grease we used to get a little tube of grease back in the days Hope this helped myself out.

FISH

Everyone here is awesome!!

Dingo said:

I've got all of my pieces together to work on my Talion this weekend. I'm wondering what others are using to clean off the diff gears, as I keep reading that Arrma generally uses a lithium based grease instead of an oil. Are there specific cleaners I should be looking at, or are items such as brake cleaner and WD-40 going to work out alright?

Click to expand...

Goo Gone. No joke, this stuff works like a dream. I pour into a small glass jar and soak my gears in it for a while, shake, soak, shake, soak, remove with magnet. Dry off and then hit them with brake clean and let them dry.

I'm new to the Kraton but not to 1/8 scale buggy racing. So why does most people want 100,000 weight or higher in the center diff? What is different than an 1/8 scale racing truggy on this truck? Or would the same people want that high of weight just because you're not on a racing track? Which goes back to the first question, what does it do better for this truck? Is it just because of the 6s power? I know you can bash with an 1/8 scale racing truggy too. I'm assuming here so correct me. Im wanting to buy some diff fluid for my initial frills but need more info. Thanks for any info.