Kraton ESC issue on Kraton V3

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Coopjag

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
I bought a ARRMA KRATON a month ago and during the third session I had with the car, it stopped with a blinking red ESC (BLX 185). I thought the battery was discharged. The battery is a 6S and it is new; it is still working on another car.
I recharged the battery and the day after tried to run the Kraton. But it wouldn’t: I still had a rapid red blinking on the ESC and no response from BOTH the throttle and the steering wheel.
I changed the batteries on the transmitter. I tried to reset the ESC to factory default but it didn’t work (I never had the green and red lights blinking simultaneously, I still had the same red blinking). I also tried the throttle setup but it didn’t work (never had any green flash). I even tried to pair the transmitter and the receiver again, but I can't: when you pair them you are supposed to press and hold the bind button, then switch on the car to have the receiver led blinking, but mine doesn't.
So I emailed the customer support. They told me to send the ESC. I got it back two days ago. For them my ESC works but I put it back on the car and I still have the same issue! The technician probably did not take the time to read my email since he just said to check the throttle trim and the throttle servo reversing switch! But I am unable to have the car run. I have no throttle and no steering control at all!
Can anybody help me?
 
Had a similar issue on a different car...hobbywing esc blinking...no steering/throttle....changed the reciever...problem solved...but came back after 3 runs...put in old reciever...all has been well since. My thought is it somehow is losing the pairing to the transmitter. If it happens again will just use another transmitter
 
I enter the ESC tuning mode correctly. But it does not solve my issue.
 
unfortunately, the problem is still there and I don't the source yet...
 
I might be missing something in your first post but it looks like you still need to rule out each component. My steering servo died on my TRX-4 (I've also got the Kraton); but to make sure it was the steering servo and nothing else (like the wheel on the radio) I unplugged the steering servo from its channel on the receiver and plugged in another servo in its place and that servo worked. This tells me everything from TX to the RX channel for the steering servo was working. The TRX-4 has multiple servos so it was easy to move them around on the RX.

Just think of ways to rule out each component as a cause...
  1. Unplug the steering servo and check to see if the car starts properly and throttle works..
  2. Use a multi meter to check there are no shorts on the steering servo connector pins. If the +ve and control wires shorted in the servo that couldn't be good for the RX, I imagine.
  3. If that looks good, try plugging the servo connector into the other car and seeing if the other car can control it.
  4. If servo is good and ESC is good, just leaves the TX and RX as having the problem. Try pairing the TX with something another car? If that works, then dodgy RX or same problem as Mboss.
  5. If the technician made a mistake with the ESC, could be worth checking the BEC supply voltage at the RX on one of the spare channel pins.
Anyway, I'd hope it was a dead servo as that means you can upgrade something that could do with an upgrade. I'm moving my Kraton servo to the TRX-4 which has the dead servo (a 5kg-cm upgrade for the TRX-4) and getting a 20kg-cm Savox sw 1210sg for the Kraton (a 5kg upgrade for it, also). For the TRX-4, however, I'm putting a 3A BEC in as the TRX-4's ESC is only 1A (which may be damaging the servos with voltage drops?). The Kraton ESC already has a 6V 3A switching BEC which I think will be fine for the 'small' Savox upgrade (some others have much higher torque). If you ever consider an external BEC, make sure only it or the ESC BEC is powering the RX, not both. I'm planning on having the external BEC just dedicated to the steering servo.

I'm also dropping in a servo glitch buster (essentially, just a capacitor) in the Kraton to try and ensure unusual demand spikes from the slightly larger Savox servo don't affect the BEC supply voltage. Maybe something worth considering if you do upgrade. People have mixed results with them, but cap storage isn't unlimited.

I've a degree in instrumentation and control but still find these machines have a steep learning curve in every aspect. Makes it a fun (but potentially $$$) hobby.

Let me know if you have success investigating.
 
If you think these are complex or $$$ get into large scale (500+ size) RC heli :)
If you mean the monsters with the 8-12 ch radios then no I don't miss trying to learn fly them :D
 
6-8 channel is the typical receiver. They're much easier to fly than they used to be with the flybarless 'computers' that basically fly it for you. You can get units now that rescue at the push of a button and you can set self leveling when letting go of stick for learning.

Below is a pic of one of mine. Over a 5' rotor span.
 

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Good to know. I’ve been looking at planes next. I’ve been researching good tx’s. Maybe heli’s down the track... far down. Those blades are perma-death!

But, I’d never guessed I’d be picking different diff oils and shimming them or looking at different springs in an rc car. Or wondering if the “slipperential” will fit the Kraton to reduce drive train wear. Every change affects every mechanical and electrical part of the car. Pivot ball vs c hub? FYI, I use thread tape on those pivot ball hub nuts else they fall out, since you can’t tighten them without locking the steering.
 
I bought a ARRMA KRATON a month ago and during the third session I had with the car, it stopped with a blinking red ESC (BLX 185). I thought the battery was discharged. The battery is a 6S and it is new; it is still working on another car.
I recharged the battery and the day after tried to run the Kraton. But it wouldn’t: I still had a rapid red blinking on the ESC and no response from BOTH the throttle and the steering wheel.
I changed the batteries on the transmitter. I tried to reset the ESC to factory default but it didn’t work (I never had the green and red lights blinking simultaneously, I still had the same red blinking). I also tried the throttle setup but it didn’t work (never had any green flash). I even tried to pair the transmitter and the receiver again, but I can't: when you pair them you are supposed to press and hold the bind button, then switch on the car to have the receiver led blinking, but mine doesn't.
So I emailed the customer support. They told me to send the ESC. I got it back two days ago. For them my ESC works but I put it back on the car and I still have the same issue! The technician probably did not take the time to read my email since he just said to check the throttle trim and the throttle servo reversing switch! But I am unable to have the car run. I have no throttle and no steering control at all!
Can anybody help me?


Arrmas customer service and warranty is amazing just call them sounds like what happens to mine and it was burnt up. Called arrma got a new servo and esc comming and arrma paid for the shipping. Easiest way I can think to solve it because unless you get it into programming mode on the esc you can't even set your throttle endpoints. My opinion
 
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6-8 channel is the typical receiver. They're much easier to fly than they used to be with the flybarless 'computers' that basically fly it for you. You can get units now that rescue at the push of a button and you can set self leveling when letting go of stick for learning.

Below is a pic of one of mine. Over a 5' rotor span.

So they are easier now. I have 2 heli's, lipo powered 200 & 300 sized that are idiot-proof but I never gave the big boys a 2nd thought. I might have to revisit them in the future.
 
So they are easier now. I have 2 heli's, lipo powered 200 & 300 sized that are idiot-proof but I never gave the big boys a 2nd thought. I might have to revisit them in the future.

The larger ones are actually much easier to fly because they are more stable and less twitchy. But they can also potentially kill if they hit someone. Also very expensive to repair from a crash. You have $100 off the bat just for blades.
 
Was the initial request within the warranty period? If so, following on from Iamtheoutcast, I would argue it’s should still be covered. Warranty in oz is a bit different. The local hobby shop manages it in conjunction with the oz distributor.

I’m getting the TRX servo replaced under warranty (will be a spare) and the missing Kraton pivot ball hub nut replaced under warranty, too. As I alluded to earlier, they like to go walkabout ;-). (Don’t threadlock on plastic, or just use thread tape instead, though it’s tricky and cross threading is a risk. You could let the threadlock dry first if it’s thick enough then the plastic will be fine)

If you have are missing a single hub nut you’d have to buy the set of four hubnuts and since the little plastic retainer is likely missing, too, you have to purchase the entire pair of front steering blocks. o_O That’s one expensive hub nut! Unless you can 3D print.
 
that's exactly what just happened to me. A hub nut backed out on me. I just ended up buying a complete set of front and rear assembly. It was about the same price as buying the nuts and retainer.

I was thinking of adding plumbers tape.
 
Good to know. I’ve been looking at planes next. I’ve been researching good tx’s. Maybe heli’s down the track... far down. Those blades are perma-death!

But, I’d never guessed I’d be picking different diff oils and shimming them or looking at different springs in an rc car. Or wondering if the “slipperential” will fit the Kraton to reduce drive train wear. Every change affects every mechanical and electrical part of the car. Pivot ball vs c hub? FYI, I use thread tape on those pivot ball hub nuts else they fall out, since you can’t tighten them without locking the steering.

I agree they do have the tendency to back out and if your hex head falls out chances r you'l find it. But the rubber part is lost 4ever. But just a little Teflon tape and havnt had an issue sense.
 
I’ll try that if there is a next time :)
Maybe there’s an aluminium steering block available.

I spray dry PTFE lube in there to minimise resistance to the wheels going up and down. I read somewhere this could put strain on the aluminium base (bend it) as they ‘may’ not be as smooth as c-hub. But it seemed to be a contentious issue with a very heated debate...
 
I might be missing something in your first post but it looks like you still need to rule out each component. My steering servo died on my TRX-4 (I've also got the Kraton); but to make sure it was the steering servo and nothing else (like the wheel on the radio) I unplugged the steering servo from its channel on the receiver and plugged in another servo in its place and that servo worked. This tells me everything from TX to the RX channel for the steering servo was working. The TRX-4 has multiple servos so it was easy to move them around on the RX.

Just think of ways to rule out each component as a cause...
  1. Unplug the steering servo and check to see if the car starts properly and throttle works..
  2. Use a multi meter to check there are no shorts on the steering servo connector pins. If the +ve and control wires shorted in the servo that couldn't be good for the RX, I imagine.
  3. If that looks good, try plugging the servo connector into the other car and seeing if the other car can control it.
  4. If servo is good and ESC is good, just leaves the TX and RX as having the problem. Try pairing the TX with something another car? If that works, then dodgy RX or same problem as Mboss.
  5. If the technician made a mistake with the ESC, could be worth checking the BEC supply voltage at the RX on one of the spare channel pins.
Anyway, I'd hope it was a dead servo as that means you can upgrade something that could do with an upgrade. I'm moving my Kraton servo to the TRX-4 which has the dead servo (a 5kg-cm upgrade for the TRX-4) and getting a 20kg-cm Savox sw 1210sg for the Kraton (a 5kg upgrade for it, also). For the TRX-4, however, I'm putting a 3A BEC in as the TRX-4's ESC is only 1A (which may be damaging the servos with voltage drops?). The Kraton ESC already has a 6V 3A switching BEC which I think will be fine for the 'small' Savox upgrade (some others have much higher torque). If you ever consider an external BEC, make sure only it or the ESC BEC is powering the RX, not both. I'm planning on having the external BEC just dedicated to the steering servo.

I'm also dropping in a servo glitch buster (essentially, just a capacitor) in the Kraton to try and ensure unusual demand spikes from the slightly larger Savox servo don't affect the BEC supply voltage. Maybe something worth considering if you do upgrade. People have mixed results with them, but cap storage isn't unlimited.

I've a degree in instrumentation and control but still find these machines have a steep learning curve in every aspect. Makes it a fun (but potentially $$$) hobby.

Let me know if you have success investigating.

RoBo80, Thanks very much for your advice! I was able to identify the wrong part!

So my ESC was checked and returned good by ARRMA. But I still had the same issue: no steering, no throttle, ESC blinking red, and receiver blinking red as soon as I turned on the transmitter. No possibility to re-bind transmitter and receiver.

Since my son has a Granite Mega, I tried his receiver and transmitter in my car but it didn't work.

Then I tried an extra steering servo and everything returned to normal! So the part that has a default on my car is the steering servo. But instead of just creating a steering issue (as it happened once on the granite), the steering servo of the Kraton was creating all kinds of issues mentioned above.

Now I have to ask ARRMA to replace my stock steering servo that I will save as a spare, and I am going to buy a new servo since I've seen a lot of people having issues with their stock servo. Any advice?

Thanks!
 
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