Sketer 1/10 MT from Corally

Shoot, I was hoping for another release

Here's some preliminary observations from a gear-head RC newbie.
Body is ...Meh.
Chassis... I've found my Viagra! This thing is a solid 5" of pure Irish .
A few deets:
-Droop screws accessible from the top. (Yes, droop screws on a 1/10 rig...)
-Upper A-arms have been shimmed at the hinge pin.
-The machine work on the Kuron motor is art.
-Tidy chassis trays.
-Servo wiring is cleverly routed to the ECS.
-Bullet connectors... (Wow, that's nice!)
-Beefy skids ( yeah we all knew that already) but still impressive to see in person.
-Bronze diff cups (spring steel, or so I'm told)
-Rear upper links are beefy.
-Bracing is pretty sweet.
-4 position steering linkage with adjustable servo arm linkage.
-Shock mounts w/3 upper mount positions and two lower mount position.
-Stressed fasteners are through bolted with nylocs.
...and on and on.
Stock wheels appear to have almost zero offset so any wheel with positive offset will interfere with the body and or chassis. The Outcast Backflip LPs will not work without, at the very least, hub extenders and most likely longer A-arms and links.

.
And about those wheels... have fun pulling those fuggers off.

Sandracer_NL said:

Shoot, I was hoping for another release

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I got mine in this form...

+30mm WIDE conversion with 3.8 Badlands. Yeah, this drives good!

Wh

razorrc said:

+30mm WIDE conversion with 3.8 Badlands. Yeah, this drives good!

View attachment 195496

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Nice. Which one did those arms and links come from?

So, I've been tinkering with this thing a bit have found at least two things I felt needed to be addressed and also some more positive observations.
#1 Wheel hubs:
The wheels are way too tight on the hubs. I had to hold the car down on the floor with my feet on the opposite sides bolted wheel just to pull the unbolted wheel off the car. I used a set of arrma Backflip LPs mounted back on the car so I could remove the remaining 2 wheels.
I ended up reaming out the factory wheels with a 15/32nd bit.

#2 Shocks:
On the positive side, all the shocks were topped off. The lower spring perches are attached to the lower rod end with a cam lock. You have to rotate the lower spring perch to lift it off the rod end, pretty neat. I'm sure some other shocks have this but but I was surprised by this little detail.
The Issue:
When re-installing the shocks it seems the outer mounting position on the front lower arm causes the rod end to bind in the arms opening. I ended up filing the shoulders of the rod ends over and clearancing the opening in the arms to allow the rod end to float ( rotate freely) in the opening. I'm sure over time this would get worn in but figured I'd get a head start.

Without a place to start my own thread, I guess I'll just add stuff in this one. Would be nice to keep these observations into one thread but I don't know if that's okay on this forum.

what is the size difference to a trugified typhon? perhaps run kronos axles and steering/hubs to make it except more tires.

Jimbobjr said:

what is the size difference to a trugified typhon? perhaps run kronos axles and steering/hubs to make it except more tires.

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Looks like that's exactly what he did. I just ordered the hubs and axle parts off JRC.
I've heard the Sketer hubs were enhanced to rectify separation issues they had with their 6s rigs. I'm curious to see what the differences are.

JPWarrior_KRX said:

Looks like that's exactly what he did. I just ordered the hubs and axle parts off JRC.
I've heard the Sketer hubs were enhanced to rectify separation issues they had with their 6s rigs. I'm curious to see what the differences are.

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I run those Badlands @razorrc has above on another car. If they are the newer style proline wheel they have a hub that can be changed out for different offsts and hexes. Or maybe he did change out the axles and hubs.

Koma7 said:

View attachment 195421

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I’ve been waiting for this 2022. And it still comes with a clear body which is great.

JPWarrior_KRX said:

Looks like that's exactly what he did. I just ordered the hubs and axle parts off JRC.
I've heard the Sketer hubs were enhanced to rectify separation issues they had with their 6s rigs. I'm curious to see what the differences are.

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I can’t believe how beefy those body posts look in your pictures everything seems to be heavy Duty on that little Sketer

Megafandrew said:

I’ve been waiting for this 2022. And it still comes with a clear body which is great.

I can’t believe how beefy those body posts look in your pictures everything seems to be heavy Duty on that little Sketer

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Takes Mega to another level, eh?

razorrc said:

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Niiice

Corally is kicking azz!

The 5 position wheelie bar is really 4 unless you clearance the underside of the arm OR the lower mount where they meet ( my approach). The lowest position holes in the bracket don't line up with the wheelie bar arm mounting holes. I shaved two notches into the lower bracket to get it to line up.

1st difficult bolt to access...
The front skid has 5 screws attaching it to the chassis. 4 hold the differential and the last one bolts through the chassis and has a nyloc attached to it. Access to that nyloc is very restricted. It's under the front center driveshaft. Removal of the battery tray seems to be the quickest way to access it.
The nyloc is located in the last pic just to the left of the servos upper left most mounting screw, under the driveshaft ( shiney dot at the bottom of the chassis).

JPWarrior_KRX said:

1st difficult bolt to access...
The front skid has 5 screws attaching it to the chassis. 4 hold the differential and the last one bolts through the chassis and has a nyloc attached to it. Access to that nyloc is very restricted. It's under the front center driveshaft. Removal of the battery tray seems to be the quickest way to access it.

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That one is a female dog. I use a 2.5mm ball end driver to "hold" it in place long enough to thread the screw in by hand underneath a couple of threads. Then hold it with a 5.5mm open box wrench while I screw it in. Removing the battery tray is definitely the least head-bashing way though!

razorrc said:

That one is a female dog. I use a 2.5mm ball end driver to "hold" it in place long enough to thread the screw in by hand underneath a couple of threads. Then hold it with a 5.5mm open box wrench while I screw it in. Removing the battery tray is definitely the least head-bashing way though!

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Yep, ESC and battery tray are the ticket. This skid as to come out for most of the front end service work. That one screw makes it svck. So much for easier to work on...

And LMAO at the forum edit on your post!

Finally had a clear day to run the Sketer. Dissapointed to say the least. She took a beat down and held up well but was glitchy from the 1st pack. I don't understand. I bench tested this thing out several times in the last two days, even after changing the ESC settings with a HW card and not once did she act odd. 1st pack in today and the esc was flashing red with no throttle response. Turned it off and on and got throttle but the car was moving in its own with the throttle trim at 0. I adjusted it to almost +1 and the car stopped running on. Lost signal and had delayed response pretty much through two battery packs.
As far as rotation goes, she rotates right onto the roof pretty well. A couple of times she ran away from me, only to turn hard and flip over...time to get the turtle...
Got a call into HRP. Hopefully they can help me sort this out.

JPWarrior_KRX said:

Finally had a clear day to run the Sketer. Dissapointed to say the least. She took a beat down and held up well but was glitchy from the 1st pack. I don't understand. I bench tested this thing out several times in the last two days, even after changing the ESC settings with a HW card and not once did she act odd. 1st pack in today and the esc was flashing red with no throttle response. Turned it off and on and got throttle but the car was moving in its own with the throttle trim at 0. I adjusted it to almost +1 and the car stopped running on. Lost signal and had delayed response pretty much through two battery packs.
As far as rotation goes, she rotates right onto the roof pretty well. A couple of times she ran away from me, only to turn hard and flip over...time to get the turtle...
Got a call into HRP. Hopefully they can help me sort this out. View attachment 196044View attachment 196045View attachment 196046

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Sorry to hear you're having issues. Have you programmed the throttle range? That would be my first thought.

Sorry for the troubles. I’d reinstall those electrics and look for a pinched lead or something hosed up in the wiring. Then set it back up, rebind and see if it’s the same. Maybe try a radio gear from something else to see if it’s the esc. Wish you had more fun, hope you get this sorted soon.
Jim

KnowAir said:

Sorry to hear you're having issues. Have you programmed the throttle range? That would be my first thought.

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Yeah, I tried that at the park with no changes. The hotline suggested, that and a bind procedure. No bind plug with me so I had to go home.

Jimbobjr said:

Sorry for the troubles. I’d reinstall those electrics and look for a pinched lead or something hosed up in the wiring. Then set it back up, rebind and see if it’s the same. Maybe try a radio gear from something else to see if it’s the esc. Wish you had more fun, hope you get this sorted soon.
Jim

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I think the re-bind was the ticket. I got home tested it out and drove it 75 to 100 yards from my house and she didn't take off or die. Response seemed good too.

So I thrashed a body, again not heartbroken, she took a few hands hits was able to flip it remotely ala Traxxas and nothing broke. Other than the glitch which seems to be resolved that was a pretty successful run. She's a beast!