Senton Basher
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Anyone know anything about this motor for the Kraton? Any good? I’m trying to solve temp issues.
Kraton Castle 1512 1800kv?
- Thread starter Senton Basher
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I’m not familiar with the castle motors. Is 1512 the size? That’s too small if so.
I believe there are a lot of good options for running cooler. I grabbed a hobbystar 4092 1730kv from rcjuice. It’s crazy torquey and runs cooler. I also installed a yeah racing dual fan at the same time. I can say running the hell outta my outcast it only gets to about 150* on a 15T pinion. I can’t say if the motor alone runs cooler as I don’t know how much the fans help. The fans on my kraton with stock motor also keep the temps 150-160 even when it’s hot out. It will creep up over 170 if I keep running for a long while.
The 4092 now overheats the esc and battery. I need a better esc now. I believe the 4082 either hobbystar or leopard would be a perfect solution. The leopards have 3mm mount holes that should be drilled and tapped to 4mm. The hobbystar use 6.5mm connectors you have to solder new connectors to your esc. Do not cut the motor wires if you get one of these. Either one has to be modded a bit to hook it up.
The Castle 1512 is about the same size as what other mfgr's would call a 4070. This is more a 1/8 buggy size motor. You would be better off with the 1515 (4076) motor, if you want to stay with Castle.
Senton Basher
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To lower temps, you need to run you motor at a lower % of max power. A bigger can motor has a higher max power. Running any given speed needs the same amount of power regardless of motor size or how much power the motor can make, so running a bigger motor will mean the motor is running at a smaller % of total power. So it makes less heat.
2fast4u
Active Member
"Do not cut the motor wires"
Myth !
As long as the wire is the correct type and ga. And you are proficient at soldering and the joint is full it doesn't matter. You can't stuff enough wire in the car to effect it.
Or not. The motor winding wires have each strand lacquer coated for insulation. To solder these wires, you must completely remove all that lacquer off each individual strand of wire. This is a real PITA, but MUST be done or you simply CANNOT solder the wires. Not "It is a bad idea" but the solder simply won't tin to the motor leads.
Note - this only applies to motor leads that are extensions of the motor windings (like most budget motors). Better motors will have a termination point inside or on the motor can so you can solder normal wire as leads. If the motor leads are supple and flexable like your battery leads, then they are Normal wiring, clip away. If they feel stiff, and hold a bend after you flex them, then they are the motor winding wires, don't clip them.
Note2 - If you need to change the motor bullet, simply de-solder the old bullet instead of cutting the wire. Then you are dealing with the pre-tinned wire ends, piece of cake. Or not, if they use some high temp solder at the factory...
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