Kraton Structual Upgrades Complete

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bicketybam

Back from vacation!
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
13,394
Reaction score
23,192
Location
New Milford, CT
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Kraton 6s
  6. Kraton 4s
  7. Mojave
  8. Notorious
  9. Talion
  10. Typhon 6s
I finally finished installing the last of the non power upgrades (motor and ESC remain stock.) Here is what I have done:

Fast Eddy Sealed Bearings
Hot Racing Aluminum Steering Hubs
Hot Racing Aluminun HD Rear Hubs
Hot Racing Aluminum Rear Chasis Brace
Hot Racing Aluminum Front Chasis Brace
Hot Racing ChannelLockSecure Motor Mount
RPM Front Upper and Lower A-Arms
RPM Rear A-Arms
RPM Wing Mounts
RPM Rear Skid Plate
RPM Front Bumper and Skip Plate
Voltage Hobbies Aluminum Servo Mount
Voltage Hobbies Aluminum Servo Clamps
Voltage Hobbies Aluminum Steering Rack
Hot Racing Aluminum Ceter Differential Mount
Hot Racing Aluminum Center Differential Brace Gear Cover
Savox 1256TG Servo

I also added two sets of tires - Proline Trenchers and Proline Shockwaves. Total cost without shipping was $683. I am sure I am over $700 when you factor in shipping costs. Without the tires the cost was $483 (tires were approx $100 per set.)

I don't plan on addressing the motor/esc until I get completely bored or they burn up. Are there any other things I should look to upgrade? Shocks? I am really trying to make my Kraton bulletproof.

Here are some pics:

20180812_111021.jpg 20180812_121454.jpg 20180812_131130.jpg 20180812_131439.jpg 20180812_135615.jpg 20180815_111527.jpg 20180815_111545.jpg 20180815_111905.jpg 20180815_113034.jpg 20180815_114127.jpg
 
I finally finished installing the last of the non power upgrades (motor and ESC remain stock.) Here is what I have done:

Are there any other things I should look to upgrade? Shocks? I am really trying to make my Kraton bulletproof.

Actually Im surprised you didnt upgrade the shock towers. That was the second thing I upgraded after my servo mount (along with chassis braces). don't think you need it unless you do some hard bashing, but the voltage hobbies towers have a good rep and look pretty sweet
 
Actually Im surprised you didnt upgrade the shock towers. That was the second thing I upgraded after my servo mount (along with chassis braces). don't think you need it unless you do some hard bashing, but the voltage hobbies towers have a good rep and look pretty sweet

The rear shock tower is sold out. When they are back in stock I will probably get them.
 
I have not noticed anything negative so far. And this is super easy to make. Aluminum tube, a deremel tool to cut the notches and a few zipties. The front gets locked into place and the rear is secured, but needs to have room n the notch to allow a slight flex when bending the opposite way. So when the towers are flexing toward them selves the braces stops the flex, but when the towers are pulling away from each other it allows the brace to separate from the rear tower. seriously 2 notches in an aluminum tube and 4 zip ties, and you are good to go.
 
I have not noticed anything negative so far. And this is super easy to make. Aluminum tube, a deremel tool to cut the notches and a few zipties. The front gets locked into place and the rear is secured, but needs to have room n the notch to allow a slight flex when bending the opposite way. So when the towers are flexing toward them selves the braces stops the flex, but when the towers are pulling away from each other it allows the brace to separate from the rear tower. seriously 2 notches in an aluminum tube and 4 zip ties, and you are good to go.
May I ask why you would want them to pull away from each? I notched my brace on both ends with a bit of flex but not much. I just think if you slow it to slide out one way your allowing the chassis to bend the way that is not secured.
 
I think the big flex we are trying to prevent is from tacoing with the guts in the middle. I don't mind flexing the other way as I have not ever seen s chassis bent the other direction. I figured making the situation to rigid, is just asking for a weaker part to fail somewhere else. This has worked for me so far. I know there are others who have different designs, but there are more than 1 way to skin a cat. Not that I have ever skinned a cat. Not that I wouldn't try.......:D
 
I think the big flex we are trying to prevent is from tacoing with the guts in the middle. I don't mind flexing the other way as I have not ever seen s chassis bent the other direction. I figured making the situation to rigid, is just asking for a weaker part to fail somewhere else. This has worked for me so far. I know there are others who have different designs, but there are more than 1 way to skin a cat. Not that I have ever skinned a cat. Not that I wouldn't try.......:D

On my outcast, I made mine rigid by running a bolt through both towers into some square steel stock that I drilled/tapped 4mm holes for. Seems my rear tower does most of the bending, now the tops of the area where the shocks mount bends in on occasion and I wack them with a wood block and hammer to bend them back.

I tried an aluminum rod first, but it wasn't a good alloy and just bent, then the threads stripped. I was using 3mm screws then.
2018-0802-Outcast-SteelTowerSupportSide02.jpg

2018-0802-Outcast-SteelTowerSupportTop.jpg


It's a bit heavy, but I was trying to use something small enough to fit through the X in the outcast body tower in the middle without cutting it out, but in the end, I cut the X out anyway.
 
Digging up an old post for an update. I have since added all the Voltage Hobbies mounts, an M2C chassis and a Max6 ESC. I have a Hobbystar motor on order.

31134
31133
31132
31131

31135
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top