savox servo secretly garbage??

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I tried running a savox servo with my MMX and it browned out constantly. I replaced it with a hitec and I’ve had zero issues. The savox servo was a 2273sg. My hitec is the $100 one off amain. Can’t remember the model off the top of my head.
 
slick2500 said:
That explains why you keep eating servos.
Start with everything off.
  • Place vehicle with wheels off the ground.
  • Turn steering wheel full right or clockwise and apply full throttle.
  • Turn on the transmitter the red led will flash 5 times release steering wheel and throttle.
  • Turn on esc.
  • Turn the wheel fully right or clockwise. Now press the - button on the side of the remote until you can see the servo stops before it reaches the limit of the steering.
  • Turn the wheel fully left or counter-clockwise. Now press the - button on the side of the remote until you can see the servo stops before it reaches the limit of the steering.
  • Turn off the esc.
  • Turn off the transmitter.
To reset your endpoints, you can do this with the car off.
  • Turn the steering wheel fully left or counter-clockwise and apply full throttle.
  • Turn on the transmitter the red led will flash 5 times, release steering wheel and throttle.
  • Turn off the transmitter.
Your end points should now be properly set. If you want I can make a crappy video showing how to do this.

You can use this same procedure to limit the throttle as well, but instead of turning the steering wheel you use the throttle trigger.
Click to expand...

Or you can do the quick & dirty version - just use the steering DR to dial the steering throw back a bit till the servo does not bind at either left or right lock. This is quick and easy, but has the down side of being easy to accidently undo.
 
Jerry-rigged said:
Or you can do the quick & dirty version - just use the steering DR to dial the steering throw back a bit till the servo does not bind at either left or right lock. This is quick and easy, but has the down side of being easy to accidently undo.
Click to expand...
That was how I think my first one died.
 
Slevin said:
I tried running a savox servo with my MMX and it browned out constantly. I replaced it with a hitec and I’ve had zero issues. The savox servo was a 2273sg. My hitec is the $100 one off amain. Can’t remember the model off the top of my head.
Click to expand...
That's good to know. I have the MMX in my savage flux. I bought the truck used and it came with a decent hitec servo (7955TG) in it. After having the 1210 in my outcast, I'd be likely to replace the one in my flux with the same if it died. Although, the 1210 isn't quite as stout as the 2273. So may not matter in my case.

You know... after putting in MMX/2200kv in my savage, I had weird receiver issues. The MMX beeped that it was losing signal. I wonder if it was the BEC not having enough to compensate for the 7955TG and it was dropping the receiver voltage too much. I thought my receiver was dying or something. I replaced the receiver and the issue seemed to go away, I think. The 7955TG is 333oz @6V, which is more than the 2273sg and 1210sg at 6V. Do you recall what hitec servo specifically you changed to?
 
olds97_lss said:
That's good to know. I have the MMX in my savage flux. I bought the truck used and it came with a decent hitec servo (7955TG) in it. After having the 1210 in my outcast, I'd be likely to replace the one in my flux with the same if it died. Although, the 1210 isn't quite as stout as the 2273. So may not matter in my case.

You know... after putting in MMX/2200kv in my savage, I had weird receiver issues. The MMX beeped that it was losing signal. I wonder if it was the BEC not having enough to compensate for the 7955TG and it was dropping the receiver voltage too much. I thought my receiver was dying or something. I replaced the receiver and the issue seemed to go away, I think. The 7955TG is 333oz @6V, which is more than the 2273sg and 1210sg at 6V. Do you recall what hitec servo specifically you changed to?
Click to expand...
7954SH

Link below

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hitec-hs7954sh-hivoltage-7.4v-ultratorque-servo-hrc37954s/p140824
 
bicketybam said:
I run 3 of those servos: Kraton, Typhon and my Savage. I have my Castle Mamba Monster X set to 7.4 in my Typhon. I don't run a cap pac or a bec and mine have been fine. I would contact them for a warranty replacement.
Click to expand...
Now that I have the mmx combo now, I’m running 1210 servo 2 fans and esc fan from yeah racing all three fans are plugged into a 3 way into reciever box. I do have b link should I set my to 7.4 also?

today the steering was wack, on stock motor setup the steering was dumb responsive, now it’s sluggish makes wide ass turns. Not quite sure what settings to use on B link. Thanks for reponse
 
The 1210 is a power hog. And you want 7.4v or there abouts with your BEC setup.
Unlike most here, I did not like 2 1210's I got. Out the box. Probably made by someone on a Monday morning who had a hangover.
Savox USA warranty sucked. They sent the exact same ones back weeks later. SOL. I was beyond the return period from the vender. Should have used or tested them when they were received. Wasted my money. I have another prior purchased Savox 1230sg and it is great in my MT410. But wont chance Savox anymore. Didn't like the bad taste. Yet many swear by them.:unsure:
 
I don't know if the savox is bad or not, but mine did blow a fet after about a year at 6V in my outcast.

2019-0916-Savox1210sg-BlownIC-4509GM-74631E.jpg


Was a pain to remove/replace with my ham hands:
2019-1001-NewICForSavox1210sg-4509GM-A4205C-Installed-Circled.jpg


I was able to fix it for $5 and waiting 3 weeks for the ic to ship from China. It was the 1210sg and I had my EPA's set to end before mechanical stops did. Not sure I'd spend $80 on one again.
 
You are good if you can repair that .(y)(y)(y)IC board etc. You would need a rework soldering station to do it without fail. You obviously have exper. with that. Most only replace the gears and toss them when the board fails.:cool: The 1210's run hot and are power hogs for sure. IMO.
In the picture I see several problems there.
 
SrC said:
You are good if you can repair that .(y)(y)(y)IC board etc. You would need a rework soldering station to do it without fail. You obviously have exper. with that. Most only replace the gears and toss them when the board fails.:cool: The 1210's run hot and are power hogs for sure. IMO.
In the picture I see several problems there.
Click to expand...
I figured it was garbage when I started... cost me $5 and burnt fingers to either make it work, or not. :)

When I ordered the replacement fet's, I thought they were 1 for $1.50. Ended up being 5 for $1.50, so me buying 3 of them (figured I'd ruin at least one while trying to solder it in), I ended up with 15 of them. lol! Just took a while to get them.
 
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