Fury 2024 upgraded

What's in there?​

• Initial truck: Fury (nihm/2s 2024)
• Servo: DS3225 update servo 25KG
• Servo saver: GPM Aluminum 7075 Servo Saver Steering 25T W
• ESC: HobbyWing QuicRun WP-10BL120 G2 120A 2-4s
• Motor: 3660 G2 Brushless Motor 3700KV
• Fan: 28000 RPM 40mm
• Pinion: SURPASS HOBBY 32DP 5mm 14T
• Remote control/receiver: Hot RC CT-8A 8-Channel Remote Control 2.4G 8-channel Receiver

Misc:​

• Fan dust filter,
• Various adapters for the batteries
• Waterproof receiver box
• a few screws
• Double-sided foam tapes
• Batteries used:
  • Zeee 2s 5200mAh 100c
  • HRB 3s 6000mAh 80c

The story​

This is my second RC car as an adult (after a Tamyia Grasshopper bought for my son earlier this year). Clearly a beginner/entry level car but super fun to play with when you don't have any experience or references.

Clearly, the nihm battery provided with the car is relatively weak. The first "upgrade" was to buy 2s batteries. The car was more powerful, more pleasure. And then the accident: servo broke 3 weeks after buying...

I asked for help in these forums, people trying to identify the issue, giving advice (action the warranty with the shop, which actually worked), and one guy told me he had a fury and had upgraded it, and he basically gave me all the parts to get. Which I did. so thanks to @SaintSlothX , this build is now reality!

Global view​

The motor, perfect fitting, slightly going out of the chassis to let the cables connect to the ESC. I've seen a guy who did an upgrade and the motor he chose was too short, the cables had to be forced coming out of the hole. Not here.


The fan, added on top of the existing opening. I still used the initial plastic grid on top of if despite having a brand new red metal dragon grid (my son didn't want to have it).
The ESC in the background, stuck to the chassis thanks to double-sided foam tape.


The wiring between ESC, receiver and servo, using the hooks on the chassis,


I didn't know where to put the on/off button but I think I got it in the perfect place, easy to reach even with the body on, and hopefully protected from most impacts.


The servo and servo saver. I was surprised by the difficulty to replace them, I had to unscrew the shock tower to properly access the servo screws. It was also a bit difficult to connect the servo-saver to the steering arms but this is probably a lack of experience.

Return of experience​

As a first build, I am extremely proud of it. A great thanks again to @SaintSlothX for the guidance.
I'm not afraid anymore of doing that kind of things and can't wait to make another ;-)
I learnt a lot on the parts, how they worked, what they were done for, how they connected, etc.

Results​

The car is now pretty fast, already with the 2s, and even more with the 3s. Not having a GPS, I can't give any figures, but the difference with the initial setup is massive.
On loose dirt, with the 3s battery, the car is barely controlable: the slightest press on the throttle and you're going in donuts ;-P. On road, it's better, but I've seen the tires melt like snow in the sun already (probably the next buy).
The overall cost is around $350 (AUD) of extras on top of the car.

Pending​

I bought a set of LED lights I want to stick on the side of the chassis but the switch I got doesn't have the right connector so I'll need a new one to be able to turn it on/off. Stay tuned ;-)