General RC Information
UPGRADES:
POWER:
- ESC: HOBBYWING QUICRUN WP8BL150 G2 150A
- Motor: HOBBYWING QUICRUN 4274SL 2000KV G2 (more torque for better climbing)
- Motor 2x 40mm fans cooler
- YEAHRUN Driveshaft Bearing Support - (the motor is big in diameter so had to buy additional adapter for the center shaft bearing and move it away from the motor).
- Batteries GXF 9200mah (great batteries and last quite long)
- Charger HOTA D6 Pro AC 200W DC 650W (best reliable charger)
SERVO:
- 9imod 55KG servo
- Alu servo saver - do not buy broke after first use without any crash
- DBRC Steering Link
DRIVETRAIN:
- GPM Drive shafts + Wheel Hex & Lock
- Alu center drive shaft
- Rubber O rings kit
I used O rings on:
- the outside of differential cogs where drive shafts go to better seal the bearings from incoming dirt
- shock pivot ball bearings to prevent dirt coming in
- if you need to move the shaft bearing to different location the center shaft has smaller diameter than the bearing so you have to use some spacer - I superglued 4 rubber O rings next to each other on the shaft and grinded them using a drill and grinder to needed diameter so the bearing would fit.
SUSPENSION:
- Suspension Arms Front & Rear
- Suspension Mounts
- GPM Piggyback shocks for traxxas Sledge (F 128 R 143mm) - I changed original 500 oil for 300
- Axial Silicone Shock Bushings
- GPM Front C Hubs + Steering Block
- GPM Rear Hubs + Upper Adjustable Links
- Stainless steel pivot balls
PROTECTION:
- GPM Center Brace Bar
- Stainless Steel chassis armor (adds stability and protection)
- TESA Ultra Power Extreme repair tape (great tape to keep the body together)
- 3M double sided foam tape (to stick what you want where you want)
LIGHTS:
- Front 135mm LED bar (attached by zip ties)
- Rear Brake taillights (drilling/screws and L mounts needed - or good 3M double sided tape)
MX/RX:
- Dumbo RC DDF-350 with X10F gyro
Bought also BeGoodRich 1/7 tires and new body to paint so will update later.
RESULT:
*1,4kg heavier than stock:
+ Better drive - more grip and stability
+ Better cornering - doesn't roll over so much in high speed turns
+ Better climbing - the motor has more torque
+ Better stability - adjusting gyro intensity allows you to keep straight line when needed or off for better drifts
+ Better suspension - the new GPM shocks work great with the added weight (would be too stiff for stock truck)
+ Less worries - telemetry on all batteries and safe balanced charging
+ More options - really like the DDF350 transmitter and all the customizable buttons
- Slower top speed - just a bit slower, the added torque and driveability is more beneficial
+ Overall more fun
PS: Yeah I know you should not put everything alu on a plastic base but I don't care.
Happy bashing.
POWER:
- ESC: HOBBYWING QUICRUN WP8BL150 G2 150A
- Motor: HOBBYWING QUICRUN 4274SL 2000KV G2 (more torque for better climbing)
- Motor 2x 40mm fans cooler
- YEAHRUN Driveshaft Bearing Support - (the motor is big in diameter so had to buy additional adapter for the center shaft bearing and move it away from the motor).
- Batteries GXF 9200mah (great batteries and last quite long)
- Charger HOTA D6 Pro AC 200W DC 650W (best reliable charger)
SERVO:
- 9imod 55KG servo
- Alu servo saver - do not buy broke after first use without any crash
- DBRC Steering Link
DRIVETRAIN:
- GPM Drive shafts + Wheel Hex & Lock
- Alu center drive shaft
- Rubber O rings kit
I used O rings on:
- the outside of differential cogs where drive shafts go to better seal the bearings from incoming dirt
- shock pivot ball bearings to prevent dirt coming in
- if you need to move the shaft bearing to different location the center shaft has smaller diameter than the bearing so you have to use some spacer - I superglued 4 rubber O rings next to each other on the shaft and grinded them using a drill and grinder to needed diameter so the bearing would fit.
SUSPENSION:
- Suspension Arms Front & Rear
- Suspension Mounts
- GPM Piggyback shocks for traxxas Sledge (F 128 R 143mm) - I changed original 500 oil for 300
- Axial Silicone Shock Bushings
- GPM Front C Hubs + Steering Block
- GPM Rear Hubs + Upper Adjustable Links
- Stainless steel pivot balls
PROTECTION:
- GPM Center Brace Bar
- Stainless Steel chassis armor (adds stability and protection)
- TESA Ultra Power Extreme repair tape (great tape to keep the body together)
- 3M double sided foam tape (to stick what you want where you want)
LIGHTS:
- Front 135mm LED bar (attached by zip ties)
- Rear Brake taillights (drilling/screws and L mounts needed - or good 3M double sided tape)
MX/RX:
- Dumbo RC DDF-350 with X10F gyro
Bought also BeGoodRich 1/7 tires and new body to paint so will update later.
RESULT:
*1,4kg heavier than stock:
+ Better drive - more grip and stability
+ Better cornering - doesn't roll over so much in high speed turns
+ Better climbing - the motor has more torque
+ Better stability - adjusting gyro intensity allows you to keep straight line when needed or off for better drifts
+ Better suspension - the new GPM shocks work great with the added weight (would be too stiff for stock truck)
+ Less worries - telemetry on all batteries and safe balanced charging
+ More options - really like the DDF350 transmitter and all the customizable buttons
- Slower top speed - just a bit slower, the added torque and driveability is more beneficial
+ Overall more fun
PS: Yeah I know you should not put everything alu on a plastic base but I don't care.
Happy bashing.
- RC Type
- Truck
- RC Brand
- Arrma
- RC Model
- Mojave 4S
- RC Scale
- 1/8 Scale
Technical Specifications
- Power Source
- Electric
- Battery Type
- LiPo
- Motor Type
- Brushless
- Drive System
- 4WD (Four-Wheel Drive)
- Top Speed
- 60-79 mph
Additional Information
- Budget
- Over $1000
- Challenges Faced
- A few which took some DIY drilling, brushing, grinding, taping and couple of hours of time.
