1/8 scale 4s powered 2wd Stampede custom build

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These 2wd rigs are really growing on me, just the simplicity of them, lightweight and stupid fast!!
The simplicity is what draws me the most. With the nerve issues I've had, working on 2wd is A LOT easier. Only 1 diff and 2 driveshafts, everything is easier to get my hands on for wrenching. And yes, very fast!

I'd say cheaper too but with all the aluminum goodies, prolly not?

I took the time to calculate what I spend on my scratch build and I was surprised. It was $805 for everything except the body and batteries, not counting any tax or shipping fees. Sounds like way too much for a 2wd buggy, but every part was hand picked so that its built the way I want it, totally worth it to me to end up with a completely custom rig. :cool:
 
The nicest tra and arm rigs are not really tra and arm rigs anymore 😜
The irony in people saying that Traxxas rigs are overpriced junk all the while dumping $1,200+ into an Arrma 6s rig so it doesn't break or bend something every time they take it out.
 
The irony in people saying that Traxxas rigs are overpriced junk all the while dumping $1,200+ into an Arrma 6s rig so it doesn't break or bend something every time they take it out.
I agree that out of the box neither are a good value. I've got both brands and you basically need to rebuild both of them 80-90% with upgraded replacement parts if you bash hard and often.

I won't buy RTRs anymore. Getting near completion of my first scratch build (4s extended Bandit) and I'm glad to be skipping the constant upgrading just to get to what I really want anyway.

If you own one rig from a lineup and end up with a 90% rebuild, you'll want to do something similar with the rest of the line. Why not just start there with as many upgrade parts from USA small businesses that make them as you can.
 
I agree that out of the box neither are a good value. I've got both brands and you basically need to rebuild both of them 80-90% with upgraded replacement parts if you bash hard and often.

I won't buy RTRs anymore. Getting near completion of my first scratch build (4s extended Bandit) and I'm glad to be skipping the constant upgrading just to get to what I really want anyway.

If you own one rig from a lineup and end up with a 90% rebuild, you'll want to do something similar with the rest of the line. Why not just start there with as many upgrade parts from USA small businesses that make them as you can.

This is my plan going forward, unless they have a sweet deal like they did with the Fireteam, $400 for a 6s Arrma rig was cheaper than buying the parts individually.
 
This is my plan going forward, unless they have a sweet deal like they did with the Fireteam, $400 for a 6s Arrma rig was cheaper than buying the parts individually.
Seems to only make sense if we're willing to use it in some variation of stock though, at least for some time? I mean with an rtr like the FT, what would you really be satisfied with using? Electronics blow, chassis blows, no exb diffs(? I think?) so so driveshafts. I suppose the shocks are decent. But honestly, if you wanted something really hardcore, you'd be replacing pretty much everything..by no means am I putting Arrma or any brand down. Most all my rigs are predominantly stock, I just use within their limits (usually) and satisfied with them.
I've been guilty of trashing TRX in the past but have come to realize they do make a good product for the average user. Market share allows them to price out over the competition.
The fact that these 20+ year old designs are still popular today speaks volumes I think.
 
I agree that out of the box neither are a good value. I've got both brands and you basically need to rebuild both of them 80-90% with upgraded replacement parts if you bash hard and often.

I won't buy RTRs anymore. Getting near completion of my first scratch build (4s extended Bandit) and I'm glad to be skipping the constant upgrading just to get to what I really want anyway.

If you own one rig from a lineup and end up with a 90% rebuild, you'll want to do something similar with the rest of the line. Why not just start there with as many upgrade parts from USA small businesses that make them as you can.
If we want the best, definitely have to do it just as you have. I really love the idea, and locally or even nationally produced parts is fantastic! Finances are where I falter unfortunately. One day I hope to build somethinglike these fine examples here..🍻
How long have I been pushing kits?🤔😂
I do miss the kit days, but that's only half of it I think. We'd still be buying alot of parts outside the kit to get to the level of the model we desire I think. But yeah, Associated and Losi kits and parts made in the good ole USA! I miss that.
 
If we want the best, definitely have to do it just as you have. I really love the idea, and locally or even nationally produced parts is fantastic! Finances are where I falter unfortunately. One day I hope to build somethinglike these fine examples here..🍻

I'm pretty much out of space now for new rigs until we buy a house which won't be soon, lol. Figured the last addition should be a killer custom build and I'll slowly finish upgrading anything my other rigs need to make them hard to break.

Of course I'm still trying to figure out ways I could make space for just one more in a few months...🙄😄
 
I'm pretty much out of space now for new rigs until we buy a house which won't be soon, lol. Figured the last addition should be a killer custom build and I'll slowly finish upgrading anything my other rigs need to make them hard to break.

Of course I'm still trying to figure out ways I could make space for just one more in a few months...🙄😄
I'm on the flipside, have the house, garage..therefore not the funds. LOL
 
The simplicity is what draws me the most. With the nerve issues I've had, working on 2wd is A LOT easier. Only 1 diff and 2 driveshafts, everything is easier to get my hands on for wrenching. And yes, very fast!



I took the time to calculate what I spend on my scratch build and I was surprised. It was $805 for everything except the body and batteries, not counting any tax or shipping fees. Sounds like way too much for a 2wd buggy, but every part was hand picked so that its built the way I want it, totally worth it to me to end up with a completely custom rig. :cool:
What are you using for drive axles on these 2wd builds? I've used the Tekno cvds on my Hoss. They're plenty strong for my use,but I don't like the thin wall inner hub bearings that Tekno spec'd to accommodate the 6mm stub.. has the dreaded small balls symptoms that have plagued the Arrma 6s and TRX Xmaxx..they just don't last..
Also, the Tekno driveshafts are a tad short, at least on the Hoss. They slip out of the outdrives routinely on me. Better than shearing plastic shafts though!! LOL
 
What are you using for drive axles on these 2wd builds? I've used the Tekno cvds on my Hoss. They're plenty strong for my use,but I don't like the thin wall inner hub bearings that Tekno spec'd to accommodate the 6mm stub.. has the dreaded small balls symptoms that have plagued the Arrma 6s and TRX Xmaxx..they just don't last..
Also, the Tekno driveshafts are a tad short, at least on the Hoss. They slip out of the outdrives routinely on me. Better than shearing plastic shafts though!! LOL
Also using the Tekno cvds on the Stampede and Bandit. So far they have been pretty good, except the bearings, lol. They do okay, but they seem extra sensitive to wet conditions, if I don't dry them out very fast after a wet bash session they won't survive more than 1 or 2 more bashes. Dry conditions they hold up about the same as the smaller stock bearings, but not any better. I can run 25 packs or so in dry conditions and its usually time to replace them. At least on the 2wd rigs its half the work to replace them.

I've had more issues with bottoming out with my driveshafts. Certain shock position with more than a tiny bit of camber will make them bottom out and bind. Had to dremel about half a mm of length off and give it a good bevel for it to not bind on the Bandit. Pretty close fit on the Stampede, only had to bevel them a little. I wonder just how precise the QC is on the length with the Tekno shafts because I see a lot of reviews either say they fall out or they bottom out, lol.
 
Also using the Tekno cvds on the Stampede and Bandit. So far they have been pretty good, except the bearings, lol. They do okay, but they seem extra sensitive to wet conditions, if I don't dry them out very fast after a wet bash session they won't survive more than 1 or 2 more bashes. Dry conditions they hold up about the same as the smaller stock bearings, but not any better. I can run 25 packs or so in dry conditions and its usually time to replace them. At least on the 2wd rigs its half the work to replace them.

I've had more issues with bottoming out with my driveshafts. Certain shock position with more than a tiny bit of camber will make them bottom out and bind. Had to dremel about half a mm of length off and give it a good bevel for it to not bind on the Bandit. Pretty close fit on the Stampede, only had to bevel them a little. I wonder just how precise the QC is on the length with the Tekno shafts because I see a lot of reviews either say they fall out or they bottom out, lol.
Hmm.. I suppose rejection is better than interjection? LOL. Weird, always thought of Tekno as a higher end product? To hear QC issues is unfortunate, but no suprise considering the COO(CN)..🤢
Water in bearings? No, never🙄 I suppose that's a big part of the failures I've experienced..I use all my TRX rigs in snow! TBH, they seem to tolerate it so much better than my Arrmas. I never dry anything, or apply anything to repel water..just let em drip dry and repeat🤣🤣
A small price to pay I suppose (bearings) considering..
 
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