17mm tires for Granite?

[ksearyback]

Word of advice. Don't do this. Only upgrade when you have a specific goal. This forum recommends unending upgrades, but almost never asks what you want to accomplish. Not all recommendations will improve the way you drive, some may make things worse. I made the mistake of listening to too many consensus "upgrades". Many ended up being downgrades and I've gone back to stock.

But this forum is useful if you ask for upgrades for a specific purpose. So, before you upgrade. Why do you want different tires? What are you looking to improve? If you find yourself sliding and spinning the tires too much, MX28's will improve traction over the stock tires. I run MX28's. They are especially good if you run in loose dirt. But as Jerry Rigged pointed out, they are heavier, they will stress driveshafts more and make your RC overheat faster. Also, increased traction is not always a good thing. It will make you traction roll more when turning, especially on high traction surfaces like pavement or grass. If you are already rolling over too much, the MX28's will make it worse, the stock tires will slide turns more easily.

I understand what you're saying. I should probably rephrase slightly to say that I actually have made purchased for a specific reason and with a plan to see if I could do it.

We have two Granites.

Truck #1 - One of them broke a front A-arm, so I replaced that with the RPM made for the Granite. I accidentally bought two packages of them, so now I have a spare set, which will probably be returned. The servo just went out so I just ordered a new one for both trucks, and I also got whatever the cheap piece is I was told needed to be included because it had to be a 25T (I have no idea what that means, but I bought it). Turns out the 25T may have still been the wrong part, so now I will have 4 of the things the come with putting in a new servo.

Truck #2 - Because my son rolls the truck a decent amount, and kind of just for the fun of comparison, I decided to buy all the parts to expand the base with the longer a arms, so those are added to my box of things. I had conflicting information from well-followed YouTube folks who just modified with the longer a arms and then went with the 17mm hex and new tires. Others said I absolutely had to also buy wheel axles, wheel nuts, turnbuckles, and 2.5mm pins. Later I believed I made a mistake by not getting the 17mm hex offset hubs, so I bought those too.... finally I went to order the badlands tires when I finally understood they could adjust to 17mm only to find out they only had one set remaining on Amazon, so the other two are back-ordered. A day later, in this thread, I was informed that I could buy the M2 adapters and don't even need all the 17mm gear (although this part remains confusing to me).

So yeah, long story, with lots of parts ordered, but they were intended to be part of a relatively simple plan. I can send most of the stuff back once I figure out what I actually need.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I feel your pain. Even with years in the hobby, sometimes I head down crazy Rube-Goldburg-esk upgrade paths that make no sense after the fact, but seemed like a very logical series of decisions when I was making them.... LOL

 

[slick2500]

I understand what you're saying. I should probably rephrase slightly to say that I actually have made purchased for a specific reason and with a plan to see if I could do it.

We have two Granites.

Truck #1 - One of them broke a front A-arm, so I replaced that with the RPM made for the Granite. I accidentally bought two packages of them, so now I have a spare set, which will probably be returned. The servo just went out so I just ordered a new one for both trucks, and I also got whatever the cheap piece is I was told needed to be included because it had to be a 25T (I have no idea what that means, but I bought it). Turns out the 25T may have still been the wrong part, so now I will have 4 of the things the come with putting in a new servo.

Truck #2 - Because my son rolls the truck a decent amount, and kind of just for the fun of comparison, I decided to buy all the parts to expand the base with the longer a arms, so those are added to my box of things. I had conflicting information from well-followed YouTube folks who just modified with the longer a arms and then went with the 17mm hex and new tires. Others said I absolutely had to also buy wheel axles, wheel nuts, turnbuckles, and 2.5mm pins. Later I believed I made a mistake by not getting the 17mm hex offset hubs, so I bought those too.... finally I went to order the badlands tires when I finally understood they could adjust to 17mm only to find out they only had one set remaining on Amazon, so the other two are back-ordered. A day later, in this thread, I was informed that I could buy the M2 adapters and don't even need all the 17mm gear (although this part remains confusing to me).

So yeah, long story, with lots of parts ordered, but they were intended to be part of a relatively simple plan. I can send most of the stuff back once I figure out what I actually need.

Save the a arms, you never know when you will need a set. I have spare a arms for most of my rcs just sitting in the packages still. A arms are a consumable item you will go through them.

Did you get the 3s Typhon stub axles and hexes? That is always a good route to go the 17mm hex route as it eliminates the the Granite stubs as a weak point.

 

[ksearyback]

Save the a arms, you never know when you will need a set. I have spare a arms for most of my rcs just sitting in the packages still. A arms are a consumable item you will go through them.

Did you get the 3s Typhon stub axles and hexes? That is always a good route to go the 17mm hex route as it eliminates the the Granite stubs as a weak point.

On one truck I just replaced the a arm with an RPM brand, but same size as the Granite.

For the truck I'd like to widen, I bought the Typhon arms, but I don't know what a stub axle is. I got the 17mm hex, some turnbuckles and a few other pieces a bunch of people list in here -- although the guys who have done this on YouTube don't seem tho be adding all the additional parts beyond the arms and the hexes.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

The axle stub is the last part of the axle (or maybe the first) that the tire rides on. the stub has the wheel nut on one end, and a u-joint on the other. Early Granites had an issue with these breaking, but I have not heard many complaining of this issue for a long while.

 

[Velodromed]

I understand what you're saying. I should probably rephrase slightly to say that I actually have made purchased for a specific reason and with a plan to see if I could do it.

We have two Granites.

Truck #1 - One of them broke a front A-arm, so I replaced that with the RPM made for the Granite. I accidentally bought two packages of them, so now I have a spare set, which will probably be returned. The servo just went out so I just ordered a new one for both trucks, and I also got whatever the cheap piece is I was told needed to be included because it had to be a 25T (I have no idea what that means, but I bought it). Turns out the 25T may have still been the wrong part, so now I will have 4 of the things the come with putting in a new servo.

Truck #2 - Because my son rolls the truck a decent amount, and kind of just for the fun of comparison, I decided to buy all the parts to expand the base with the longer a arms, so those are added to my box of things. I had conflicting information from well-followed YouTube folks who just modified with the longer a arms and then went with the 17mm hex and new tires. Others said I absolutely had to also buy wheel axles, wheel nuts, turnbuckles, and 2.5mm pins. Later I believed I made a mistake by not getting the 17mm hex offset hubs, so I bought those too.... finally I went to order the badlands tires when I finally understood they could adjust to 17mm only to find out they only had one set remaining on Amazon, so the other two are back-ordered. A day later, in this thread, I was informed that I could buy the M2 adapters and don't even need all the 17mm gear (although this part remains confusing to me).

So yeah, long story, with lots of parts ordered, but they were intended to be part of a relatively simple plan. I can send most of the stuff back once I figure out what I actually need.

Hey man, you need a hard restart. On YouTube check out razorRC’s videos, specifically the ones for working on Arrma 3s cars. On this forum, go to the 4 x 4 section and look at the top at all those posts that are a slight different color. Those are called stickies and they are full of information that you really need to learn. On the Arrma website go to the granite interactive page, pull up the parts schematic and study it. Learn what everything is called and where it goes. Once you get a base knowledge of what parts are called, where they go and the terms used in RC, all this will be so much easier.

I strongly suggest slowing down on the upgrades as you are headed down a path of frustration. Only worry about fixing what brakes right now. I understand the issues that your son has with driving, but that is a skill issue much more than a set up or a tires issue. He needs to learn how to drive without rolling the car.

Research and learn. It will save you time, money and stress.

 

[GRC]

I had conflicting information from well-followed YouTube folks who just modified with the longer a arms and then went with the 17mm hex and new tires. Others said I absolutely had to also buy wheel axles, wheel nuts, turnbuckles, and 2.5mm pins. Later I believed I made a mistake by not getting the 17mm hex offset hubs, so I bought those too.... finally I went to order the badlands tires when I finally understood they could adjust to 17mm only to find out they only had one set remaining on Amazon, so the other two are back-ordered. A day later, in this thread, I was informed that I could buy the M2 adapters and don't even need all the 17mm gear (although this part remains confusing to me)

Maybe I can clarify. You have to realize widening the stance is one thing and using 17mm wheels is another and there are different ways of doing both.

1) 17mm hex extender kits from Hot Racing or M2C do BOTH. They allow you to run 17mm wheels AND they widen your stance. Hot Racing makes each wheel extend 10mm wider. M2C makes each wheel extend 6mm wider. If you get one of these kits you don't need the Typhon 3s parts.

2) Another option is 3s Typhon parts
- To widen the stance, you need Typhon arms and Typhon turnbuckles.
- To use 17mm wheels you need: hexes (AR310904), axles (AR310905), nuts (AR310906), pins (AR713029), screws (AR722310)

The Hot Racing setup is about the same width as the 3s Typhon setup. The M2C will be slightly less wide. The Hot Racing or M2C options are easier to install and less expensive. However, I've run the Hot Racing extenders and I've switched to the 3s Typhon setup. The 3s Typhon setup is more durable and reliable.


P.S. If you choose the 3s Typhon parts option, the best way to get parts is Jenny's RC. Hexes, nuts, pins and screws come together for half the price of buying them separately https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...heel-hex-hubs-ar102696?variant=19221996863542 The axles are sold along with driveshafts (it's good to have driveshaft replacements on hand) https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696

 

[ksearyback]

Hey man, you need a hard restart. On YouTube check out razorRC’s videos, specifically the ones for working on Arrma 3s cars. On this forum, go to the 4 x 4 section and look at the top at all those posts that are a slight different color. Those are called stickies and they are full of information that you really need to learn. On the Arrma website go to the granite interactive page, pull up the parts schematic and study it. Learn what everything is called and where it goes. Once you get a base knowledge of what parts are called, where they go and the terms used in RC, all this will be so much easier.

I strongly suggest slowing down on the upgrades as you are headed down a path of frustration. Only worry about fixing what brakes right now. I understand the issues that your son has with driving, but that is a skill issue much more than a set up or a tires issue. He needs to learn how to drive without rolling the car.

Research and learn. It will save you time, money and stress.

I hear you, and I agree. I don't want to be upgrading anything to be honest. However, when the A arm broke, and the servo crashed, I figured I could replace parts that were broken while also widening the base at the same time. I am not handy, and I get confused when I take the truck apart to fix something (as I can never remember which screws go where, and the order to put things back, just for starters). So, yeah, ideally I wouldn't even know about Typhon parts, nor would I have ever had a reason to get on this forum. I had no idea there was so much maintenance and repairs required for these things. Either way, thanks for the comment and the advice.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

One tip for working on cars - get one of those clear tackle trays. Put all the screws and small parts from one step in one compartment, next step goes in the next compartment. Adjustable compartment size, so you can throw some medium size parts (like arms, shocks) in the box by removing a divider or two. If you get interrupted mid-repair, just close the lid and move on, your parts will stay organized.

I have one of these organizer boxes from HF - each tray is labeled for a car, and bigger parts and some tools go in the top compartment. One tray is for extra screws (I bought a screw kit from JRC once or twice to get extras)

 

[Velodromed]

I hear you, and I agree. I don't want to be upgrading anything to be honest. However, when the A arm broke, and the servo crashed, I figured I could replace parts that were broken while also widening the base at the same time. I am not handy, and I get confused when I take the truck apart to fix something (as I can never remember which screws go where, and the order to put things back, just for starters). So, yeah, ideally I wouldn't even know about Typhon parts, nor would I have ever had a reason to get on this forum. I had no idea there was so much maintenance and repairs required for these things. Either way, thanks for the comment and the advice.

It gets easier the more you mess with it. Hang in there!

 

[GRC]

Yeah, you're not alone. It gets much easier over time. Stuff I found intimidating at first is routine now. Once you get to know which parts frequently cause problems, you'll know how to fix them, have replacements ready, or find modifications/upgrades that help. Also, as you become a better driver you'll break less. At this point, I generally come home from bashes with my Granite intact.

 

[Velodromed]

Yeah, you're not alone. It gets much easier over time. Stuff I found intimidating at first is routine now. Once you get to know which parts frequently cause problems, you'll know how to fix them, have replacements ready, or find modifications/upgrades that help. Also, as you become a better driver you'll break less. At this point, I generally come home from bashes with my Granite intact.

Absolutely not alive! I’m just cracking into my TA MT10 for the first time and I’ve had it for 5 months. I just never wanted to mess with it I was totally intimidated by the center differential and it’s not an Arrma lol. Since it broke, I had to take it apart and it’s not confusing at all. It’s Interesting and fun. I can’t believe how much I’ve learned in general RC mechanical knowledge this last year. Figure It’s preparing me for when I get my Noto soon. All I know is 3s cars right now.

As for the better driving part…around the time I improved and stopped breaking stuff from driver error, I realized I really like pushing boundaries so am breaking stuff more than ever. But at least I know how to fix it

 

[ksearyback]

Maybe I can clarify. You have to realize widening the stance is one thing and using 17mm wheels is another and there are different ways of doing both.

1) 17mm hex extender kits from Hot Racing or M2C do BOTH. They allow you to run 17mm wheels AND they widen your stance. Hot Racing makes each wheel extend 10mm wider. M2C makes each wheel extend 6mm wider. If you get one of these kits you don't need the Typhon 3s parts.

2) Another option is 3s Typhon parts
- To widen the stance, you need Typhon arms and Typhon turnbuckles.
- To use 17mm wheels you need: hexes (AR310904), axles (AR310905), nuts (AR310906), pins (AR713029), screws (AR722310)

The Hot Racing setup is about the same width as the 3s Typhon setup. The M2C will be slightly less wide. The Hot Racing or M2C options are easier to install and less expensive. However, I've run the Hot Racing extenders and I've switched to the 3s Typhon setup. The 3s Typhon setup is more durable and reliable.


P.S. If you choose the 3s Typhon parts option, the best way to get parts is Jenny's RC. Hexes, nuts, pins and screws come together for half the price of buying them separately https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...heel-hex-hubs-ar102696?variant=19221996863542 The axles are sold along with driveshafts (it's good to have driveshaft replacements on hand) https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696

Thanks for this guide to help me organize and game plan.

I already bought the 3s Typhon parts when the a arm from one of my Granites broke. I just have to figure out if I have all the pieces you listed. I think I do, but I also think I mistakenly bought a bunch of hex hubs and extenders. Sounds like maybe I was confusing various ways of fixing/modifying with the wider a arms and Badlands tires.

Other than that, I have to get around to figuring out how to instal the new servos since they already broke on both Granites.

Also, I got a Big Rock to join the two Granites. Since I have another set of Badlands, I may try to use those to replace the stock tires on the Big Rock.

Other than that, and to the point most everyone has reiterated, I'm not looking to modify or even upgrade anything else. Only when parts break, which is far more frequent than I would have ever guessed.

Appreciate the help on here

 

[ksearyback]

you can upgrade to 17mm hexes and use the proline plastic adapters, the 17mm aluminum adapters or ditch the hexes entirely and use the M2c adapters to proline 6x30 - https://m2cracing.net/arrma-vorteks...rock-granite-senton-with-6mm-axle-single.html

Hopefully someone can help me figure out the installation part here.

I took the advice of just ordering the M2C adapters for the proline 6x30. I then attempted to replace the stock wheels/tires on my Big Rock using this M2C adapter. I was under the assumption, based on all I've read and seen on Youtube, that I wouldn't have to replace anything else from stock, and could even secure the adapter to the axle (hub?) using the stock wheel nut. The problem is, the nut can't reach the axle to screw back on, so I have no idea how I'm actually supposed to use the M2C piece now.

Thanks for any help with this one

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I don't have the M2C adaptors, so I can't help you there.

But you have the Raid 6x30 wheels? Why not get the 14mm hex part, and mount the wheels like normal?

$13-https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline-6x30-to-14mm-hex-adapters-2-pro6347-00/p997161
Or if you feel you need aluminum hex in the wheel -
https://www.amainhobbies.com/prolin...-hex-adapters-arrma-3s-blx-pro6346-00/p969885

But I get that at this point, you have spent the money on M2C and want them to work.

 

[ksearyback]

I don't have the M2C adaptors, so I can't help you there.

But you have the Raid 6x30 wheels? Why not get the 14mm hex part, and mount the wheels like normal?

$13-https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline-6x30-to-14mm-hex-adapters-2-pro6347-00/p997161
Or if you feel you need aluminum hex in the wheel -
https://www.amainhobbies.com/prolin...-hex-adapters-arrma-3s-blx-pro6346-00/p969885

But I get that at this point, you have spent the money on M2C and want them to work.

I have no idea. I purchased the wheel adapters someone said would be the easiest way to put the badlands onto my Granite and/or Big Rock. A few people sent me the following link (and in the main description on this page it specifically says these adapters are for the Granite and Big Rock, so I don't understand the difference between what I purchased and what you suggested).

https://m2cracing.net/arrma-vorteks...rock-granite-senton-with-6mm-axle-single.html

Either way, am I supposed to be buying something that will make it so the axle sticks out long enough to be able to screw the wheel nut in to secure the adapter? I can't even get the factor nut to catch even one thread to tighten it down. (Hoping you get the idea of what I'm saying, I'm still trying my best to understand the name for all these different parts)... if you go to the link I pasted above, and click on the third picture on the left of the page, I cannot get to this stage of the installation. I don't know how they secured that

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Did you remove the factory hex? From what I read on the M2C page, these replace the hex on the axle stub AND the tire. This M2C part should be sitting on the axle crosspin.

Also, understand that for some people on this board, M2C is the closest thing to the second coming of Christ that they could imagine, and will recommend them as the solution for everything...

 

[ksearyback]

Did you remove the factory hex? From what I read on the M2C page, these replace the hex on the axle stub AND the tire. This M2C part should be sitting on the axle crosspin.

Also, understand that for some people on this board, M2C is the closest thing to the second coming of Christ that they could imagine, and will recommend them as the solution for everything...

Thank you. I did not remove the factory hex, this is the first I've heard of this. Thanks. Now just to figure out how to do that!

I have so many wheel and hex adapters at this point, I just want to make sure what I have will actually work before figuring out what to send back. Do you have any idea if the M2C adapter I purchased is ideal since it says it's for 13mm, or should I return those and purchase the adapters you suggested from proline? To be honest, I thought the whole point of these wheel adapters was that they were universal in size, so I'm lost again by the fact that one says 13mm and the other 14mm

 

[RCbuzz]

I am honestly really impressed with the stock granite tires, I hesitate to add more weight to that drive train. I have had good luck with the stock arms too but I hear some bad ones make it through and they can crack. I stock a couple extra composite differentials and input gears, I sealed up the power module (this helped a lot keeping the slipper and spur lasting longer). Good luck with the new hexes and tires, I bet they will look very nice when done, keep in mind the added stress to the drivetrain.

 

[a2lowvw]

The m2c adapters add 13mm of width over a standard stetup. Grab a 1.5mm Allen and loosen the set screw. Slowly pull the hex off and be careful not to lose the pin.