17mm tires for Granite?

[ksearyback]

The m2c adapters add 13mm of width over a standard stetup. Grab a 1.5mm Allen and loosen the set screw. Slowly pull the hex off and be careful not to lose the pin.

Perfect. I got the hex off. Do I keep the pin in with the adapter? The pin doesn't seem to have a natural fit to the adapter, so I assume it's not needed unless I put the original hex back on, was that why you said not to lose it?

Edit: Ignore that question. I see the fit now! Much appreciated for this help

 

[Jerry-rigged]

The m2c adapters add 13mm of width over a standard stetup. Grab a 1.5mm Allen and loosen the set screw. Slowly pull the hex off and be careful not to lose the pin.

I see this as the biggest issue with the M2C "solution". Every time you take a tire off, you risk losing that pin. Also, sometimes that pin will move as you put the tire on, and prevent the rim from seating all the way down - if you don't catch that, you will have issues (and maybe lose the pin) when you try to run the truck.

Back in the '90's, many cars had no hex and the wheel rim keyed into the pin. I was very happy to go away from that system and move to Hex, especially the metal hex with a set screw, like Arrma uses. Hexs are 1000% a better system vs just using the pin, IMHO.

 

[ksearyback]

I see this as the biggest issue with the M2C "solution". Every time you take a tire off, you risk losing that pin. Also, sometimes that pin will move as you put the tire on, and prevent the rim from seating all the way down - if you don't catch that, you will have issues (and maybe lose the pin) when you try to run the truck.

Back in the '90's, many cars had no hex and the wheel rim keyed into the pin. I was very happy to go away from that system and move to Hex, especially the metal hex with a set screw, like Arrma uses. Hexs are 1000% a better system vs just using the pin, IMHO.

Well the good, or maybe bad, news here is that I have the parts for both options.

I just finished putting the new tires on the Big Rock with the M2C adapter. I'm not planning on messing with that truck anymore until the servo dies (which could be the next run).

I'm still going to use the Typhon a arms to extend one of my Granites, and when I do that who process I'm going to go ahead and use the 17mm hex modification. The servo is also dead in that truck (and my other Granite), so I figure I may as well do the base widening, 17mm upgrade, and replace the servo as a project that, if for no better reason, at least I'll get to learn more about the trucks and all the moving parts. One of these days I may actually be able to complete a project without needing help every step of the way.

 

[a2lowvw]

I see this as the biggest issue with the M2C "solution". Every time you take a tire off, you risk losing that pin. Also, sometimes that pin will move as you put the tire on, and prevent the rim from seating all the way down - if you don't catch that, you will have issues (and maybe lose the pin) when you try to run the truck.

Back in the '90's, many cars had no hex and the wheel rim keyed into the pin. I was very happy to go away from that system and move to Hex, especially the metal hex with a set screw, like Arrma uses. Hexs are 1000% a better system vs just using the pin, IMHO.

Yes, but if you are changing from one raid style wheel to another you are unbolting 6 little bolts and not removing the conversion hub. If you go from a raid style wheel back to something with 17mm hexes then I would just use the original raid adapters and 17mm hexes.

 

[GRC]

I see this as the biggest issue with the M2C "solution". Every time you take a tire off, you risk losing that pin. Also, sometimes that pin will move as you put the tire on, and prevent the rim from seating all the way down - if you don't catch that, you will have issues (and maybe lose the pin) when you try to run the truck.

This is why I use the Typhon 3s 17mm axles/hubs/nuts. The Hot Racing and M2C adapters are basically the same design. Both can lose a pin if the wheel comes off and both rely on a spinning loc-tited screw to keep the wheel on. That screw came loose all the time, the wheel would fly off, and the pin would be lost. The Typhon 3s 17mm option is much more durable and reliable.

 

[ksearyback]

This is why I use the Typhon 3s 17mm axles/hubs/nuts. The Hot Racing and M2C adapters are basically the same design. Both can lose a pin if the wheel comes off and both rely on a spinning loc-tited screw to keep the wheel on. That screw came loose all the time, the wheel would fly off, and the pin would be lost. The Typhon 3s 17mm option is much more durable and reliable.

Just making sure I'm following this, I've become confused with how you use the Typhon 3s 17mm set up without still relying on the adapters for the wheels. I tried to buy the 1/10 Badlands 17mm but they only come in 12mm. Are there actually 17mm 2.8 1/10 Badlands available for the 3s trucks? Not sure what tire to buy for my Granite upgrade now

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Just making sure I'm following this, I've become confused with how you use the Typhon 3s 17mm set up without still relying on the adapters for the wheels. I tried to buy the 1/10 Badlands 17mm but they only come in 12mm. Are there actually 17mm 2.8 1/10 Badlands available for the 3s trucks? Not sure what tire to buy for my Granite upgrade now

With the Proline Raid wheels, you can remove the hex hub and swap out to another hex with a different size. All the 2.8 Raid wheels come with 12mm hexes, but there are plastic and aluminum options for 14mm and 17mm.-
https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline-6x30-to-14mm-hex-adapters-2-pro6347-00/p997161

Yes, but if you are changing from one raid style wheel to another you are unbolting 6 little bolts and not removing the conversion hub. If you go from a raid style wheel back to something with 17mm hexes then I would just use the original raid adapters and 17mm hexes.

Or, you can leave the stock 14mm hex in place, get the $12 replacement 14mm hubs for your raid wheels, and now you can use Raid wheels, Duratrax 14mm wheels, Arrma wheels and others, and only have 1 screw per wheel instead of 6. But, it is M2C so it must be better...

 

[GRC]

Again, keep in mind 1) wheels/tires, 2) 17mm hexes, 3) widening your Granite are three separate things. You can do one, two, or all three of them. You don't have to do everything.

Right now, there are 3 different ways to get Proline Badlands MX28's (PRO1012510) on your Granite.

1) If you are going to keep the stock 14mm hexes. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-14mm-hex-adapters/PRO634700.html
This will not widen your Granite. If you also want to widen, get Typhon arms and turnbuckles.

2) If you get Typhon 17mm hexes/axles/nuts/pins/screws. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-17mm-hex-adapters/PRO633600.html
This will not widen your Granite. If you also want to widen, get Typhon arms and turnbuckles.

3) If you get M2C or Hot Racing 17mm adapters/extenders. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-17mm-hex-adapters/PRO633600.html
Both the M2C and Hot Racing give you 17mm hexes AND widen your stance. You don't need any Typhon parts for this option.

(The MX28 tires used to come with 17mm wheels that didn't require 6x30 to 17mm adapters, but they've been discontinued.)

 

[ksearyback]

Again, keep in mind 1) wheels/tires, 2) 17mm hexes, 3) widening your Granite are three separate things. You can do one, two, or all three of them. You don't have to do everything.

Right now, there are 3 different ways to get Proline Badlands MX28's (PRO1012510) on your Granite.

1) If you are going to keep the stock 14mm hexes. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-14mm-hex-adapters/PRO634700.html
This will not widen your Granite. If you also want to widen, get Typhon arms and turnbuckles.

2) If you get Typhon 17mm hexes/axles/nuts/pins/screws. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-17mm-hex-adapters/PRO633600.html
This will not widen your Granite. If you also want to widen, get Typhon arms and turnbuckles.

3) If you get M2C or Hot Racing 17mm adapters/extenders. Get MX28's (PRO1012510) and these
https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-17mm-hex-adapters/PRO633600.html
Both the M2C and Hot Racing give you 17mm hexes AND widen your stance. You don't need any Typhon parts for this option.

(The MX28 tires used to come with 17mm wheels that didn't require 6x30 to 17mm adapters, but they've been discontinued.)

Yeah, I think your comment is exactly what I was thinking, so I believe you confirmed what wasn't making sense to me. Basically, there is no way to get put the Badlands on the Big Rock or Granite without the hex adapters. So no matter what, I'm still looking at the process of six screws if I want to use those tires since they aren't available mounted on a stock 17mm wheel.

I've just completed #1 from your list on the Big Rock. Next I will be doing #2 with one of the Granites (since my stock a arm already broke and I have most, or maybe all, of the parts you listed).

 

[parcou]

P.S. If you choose the 3s Typhon parts option, the best way to get parts is Jenny's RC. Hexes, nuts, pins and screws come together for half the price of buying them separately https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...heel-hex-hubs-ar102696?variant=19221996863542 The axles are sold along with driveshafts (it's good to have driveshaft replacements on hand) https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696

I wanted to go this route on my Big Rock. When you have the Arrma CVDs the driveshafts are different at the end of the shaft. So I had to use the M2C option with the barrel nut at the end of the driveshaft. I really do not want to lose a screw this will kill it for replacements,

 

[ksearyback]

This is why I use the Typhon 3s 17mm axles/hubs/nuts. The Hot Racing and M2C adapters are basically the same design. Both can lose a pin if the wheel comes off and both rely on a spinning loc-tited screw to keep the wheel on. That screw came loose all the time, the wheel would fly off, and the pin would be lost. The Typhon 3s 17mm option is much more durable and reliable.

I just learned this the hard way. The wheel nut/screw came loose on the Big Rock, and I lost the pin when the wheel fell off. So much for the easy fix. I guess I'm now going to be forced to use the Typhon 17mm axles/hubs/nuts and see if that will hold onto the wheel better

 

[ksearyback]

I wanted to go this route on my Big Rock. When you have the Arrma CVDs the driveshafts are different at the end of the shaft. So I had to use the M2C option with the barrel nut at the end of the driveshaft. I really do not want to lose a screw this will kill it for replacements,

Can you explain this? A Big Rock is an Arrma, so why would Arrma CVDs have a different end to the drive shaft?

I have all the parts to instal the Typhon A arms etc., but I also have the 14 to17mm hex adaptors, and also the M2C adapter. My Big Rock was using the M2C adapter for the Badlands, but the wheel came flying off and the pin is lost.

This thread confuses me as to whether I should put in the effort of new Typhon A arms and related pieces (including the drive shafts or CVDs that were linked above), or if I should use the 17mm adapter. I also don't know what to do about the missing pin that fell out of the axle (or stub?), and if that means I can't really use the adapters anymore.

Advice for a lost beginner?

 

[a2lowvw]

Can you explain this? A Big Rock is an Arrma, so why would Arrma CVDs have a different end to the drive shaft?

I have all the parts to instal the Typhon A arms etc., but I also have the 14 to17mm hex adaptors, and also the M2C adapter. My Big Rock was using the M2C adapter for the Badlands, but the wheel came flying off and the pin is lost.

This thread confuses me as to whether I should put in the effort of new Typhon A arms and related pieces (including the drive shafts or CVDs that were linked above), or if I should use the 17mm adapter. I also don't know what to do about the missing pin that fell out of the axle (or stub?), and if that means I can't really use the adapters anymore.

Advice for a lost beginner?

go to the hobby shop or buy from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Arrma-Pin-2-5x12mm-10/dp/B077XJVZPD ) and buy a pin set. Use locktite on the wheel nut as M2C suggests from their website "BLUE LOCTITE IS MANDATORY ON THE WHEEL NUT!!!"

 

[GRC]

Can you explain this? A Big Rock is an Arrma, so why would Arrma CVDs have a different end to the drive shaft?

He upgraded the plastic driveshafts to the metal CVD's. The metal CVD's aren't compatible with the Typhon axles/hexes/hubs, so his only 17mm option is a 17mm adapter. You're not using the metal CVD upgrades, so don't worry about it. Don't get confused. Your options are the same as they were before.

1) Stock setup
OR
2) Typhon setup
OR
3) 17mm adapter

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Can you explain this? A Big Rock is an Arrma, so why would Arrma CVDs have a different end to the drive shaft?

I have all the parts to instal the Typhon A arms etc., but I also have the 14 to17mm hex adaptors, and also the M2C adapter. My Big Rock was using the M2C adapter for the Badlands, but the wheel came flying off and the pin is lost.

This thread confuses me as to whether I should put in the effort of new Typhon A arms and related pieces (including the drive shafts or CVDs that were linked above), or if I should use the 17mm adapter. I also don't know what to do about the missing pin that fell out of the axle (or stub?), and if that means I can't really use the adapters anymore.

Advice for a lost beginner?

I think he is saying the Arrma CVD's don't work with the Typhon3s driveshafts.

You have the Raid wheels, right? If you can make the Typhon3s parts work with what you have great, but before you start buying a lot of parts to make a Frakentruck, get the Raid 14mm hex hubs and try them, with the stock 14mm hexs.

 

[GRC]

nevermind

 

[ksearyback]

I think he is saying the Arrma CVD's don't work with the Typhon3s driveshafts.

You have the Raid wheels, right? If you can make the Typhon3s parts work with what you have great, but before you start buying a lot of parts to make a Frakentruck, get the Raid 14mm hex hubs and try them, with the stock 14mm hexs.

Got it, thanks. I was thinking the opposite (i.e., that he was saying Typhon parts required the Typhon driveshaft, but that wasn't compatible with the other 3S trucks).

I did what you suggested on one of the trucks.

1.) On my Big Rock I have the M2C adapters with the Badlands. I took a pin from the Granite to connect the M2C to the stock axle. Someone just above you reminded me to use Loctite, which I did. (I actually used Loctite originally, and the wheel still came off, which I guess is the downside to the M2C design.)

2.) On the Granite I replaced the broken A Arm (same size as stock), and swapped the stock 14mm hex with the 17mm offset hex. And, yes, I have the Raid wheels which I installed on the 17mm hex. (Enough for today, I'll try to figure out how to reconfigure the rear A arm, drive shaft, etc another day, as I'm sure putting the new hex on will make it impossible to reassemble.)

So that's it for the new wheels/tires etc.

Next step is replacing at least 2 if not 3 servos so I can actually take the trucks outside again.

 

[parcou]

Can you explain this? A Big Rock is an Arrma, so why would Arrma CVDs have a different end to the drive shaft?

I have all the parts to instal the Typhon A arms etc., but I also have the 14 to17mm hex adaptors, and also the M2C adapter. My Big Rock was using the M2C adapter for the Badlands, but the wheel came flying off and the pin is lost.

This thread confuses me as to whether I should put in the effort of new Typhon A arms and related pieces (including the drive shafts or CVDs that were linked above), or if I should use the 17mm adapter. I also don't know what to do about the missing pin that fell out of the axle (or stub?), and if that means I can't really use the adapters anymore.

Advice for a lost beginner?

It is confusing, sorry.... not to confuse you more and just speaking on the Arrma CVDs. I am running those on my Big Rock and I cannot use the Typhon setup which is a good setup.

Here is a pic of the Arrma CVD

Here is the 3S Typhon driveshaft

With the Typhon setup you can screw into the front barrel of the driveshaft. Cannot do that with Arrma CVD

M2C has their own setup with the hex hub extenders and has a barrel nut that goes in the center

 

[ksearyback]

It is confusing, sorry.... not to confuse you more and just speaking on the Arrma CVDs. I am running those on my Big Rock and I cannot use the Typhon setup which is a good setup.

Here is a pic of the Arrma CVD
View attachment 203671


Here is the 3S Typhon driveshaft
View attachment 203672

With the Typhon setup you can screw into the front barrel of the driveshaft. Cannot do that with Arrma CVD
View attachment 203673


M2C has their own setup with the hex hub extenders and has a barrel nut that goes in the center
View attachment 203674

Appreciate the response. Part of the problem is that I'm still learning the part names, and I honestly don't know what people are talking about when they refer to CVDs. Is CVD synonymous with driveshaft?

Either way, I just put the Hot Racing 17mm hex hubs with 10mm offset (link below) onto my Granite. Am I going to have a problem with the stock driveshaft when I attempt to put everything back together (it's all taken apart because I had to replace an A arm)? I guess that is the second part of my question, which is, which drive shaft (or CVD?) should I order to replace stock as the stock one isn't in great shape, and probably has limited time remaining?

These just went on the Granite with Badlands (everything else is stock)
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-A...45511&pd_rd_wg=PLyoK&pd_rd_i=B07NF7HNBM&psc=1

 

[parcou]

Appreciate the response. Part of the problem is that I'm still learning the part names, and I honestly don't know what people are talking about when they refer to CVDs. Is CVD synonymous with driveshaft?

Either way, I just put the Hot Racing 17mm hex hubs with 10mm offset (link below) onto my Granite. Am I going to have a problem with the stock driveshaft when I attempt to put everything back together (it's all taken apart because I had to replace an A arm)? I guess that is the second part of my question, which is, which drive shaft (or CVD?) should I order to replace stock as the stock one isn't in great shape, and probably has limited time remaining?

These just went on the Granite with Badlands (everything else is stock)
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-A...45511&pd_rd_wg=PLyoK&pd_rd_i=B07NF7HNBM&psc=1

Understand.... RCDriver I watched his entire playlist on RC parts name and he has one for suspension and the whole 9 yards:

CVD:
This means that instead of dog-bones that just slide around in cups, CV's have a special means of connecting the wheel to the axle- usually by a universal joint- or two hubs that join together with a X shaped pinion...in short, they are smoother, stronger and last longer.

If you are looking for stock Granite driveshafts, JRC has parts he pulls off new RCs cheaper and you get the full assembly. These are the driveshaft linked not CVD:
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...fts-front-rear-axle-senton-big-rock-ara4302v3