Typhon 1st Arrma

[JimmyRigs]

Just picked up a Typhon 6s BLX for $50, missing it's wheels and has a bad front dif. The guy I bought it off of said the center dif is locked and he thinks that is why he was having trouble killing the front dif. I'm not new to the hobby but I always stuck with traxxas 2wd's so I feel a bit lost with this, 1st Arrma and 1st 4wd. Any good threads that would be a good guide as far as what to and not to do? I've wasted more than enough money to know not to dive in head first lol.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Welcome the forum. Sounds like you got a bargain. I suggest you check out JennysRC.com and get your replacement parts from there if you are in the US. We have a member here that does similar in the UK (sorry to that member as I can't remember who it is but someone will help me out I'm sure) and there is AmpedRC if you are in Australia.

If the Diffs are stuffed I would just by new ones from one of the kit breakers and while some will only now have the V4 parts, many of those parts are directly interchangeable. They Typhon 6S is a beast, congratulations.

 

[Primarrma]

Welcome the forum. Sounds like you got a bargain. I suggest you check out JennysRC.com and get your replacement parts from there if you are in the US. We have a member here that does similar in the UK (sorry to that member as I can't remember who it is but someone will help me out I'm sure) and there is AmpedRC if you are in Australia.

If the Diffs are stuffed I would just by new ones from one of the kit breakers and while some will only now have the V4 parts, many of those parts are directly interchangeable. They Typhon 6S is a beast, congratulations.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/members/9815/
@Badtouch The basher

 

[GMballistic]

Sounds like you got a bargain there @JimmyRigs .
As mentioned try Jennys RC or similar for some new diffs and buy some tyres & enjoy.

 

[Ari33]

Hi,welcome to the forum. Plenty of breaker typhon parts on ebay atm, likely cheaper to replace the diffs with those rather than individual new parts.

Yes, completely locking the centre diff solid is a likely reason for damaging the front diff.
Open the centre diff to unlock it and inspect for damage. If the diff is ok replace the oil in it.

The standard diff oil set up is F- 5k C- 7k R- 3k but for bashing I'd highly reccomend increasing them substantially to stop front tyres balooning, for hugely better acceleration and far more agility.

For smooth surfaces..

Front diff - 7k. to 10k

Centre diff - 100k to 200k

Rear diff - 5k to 7k


For very bumpy surfaces..

Front diff - 5k to 7k

Centre diff - 20k to 50k

Rear diff - 3k to 5k

Its a matter of personal taste and where you run what you will end up with but that should point you in the right direction..



There are loads of YT videos on how the various diffs are accessed and changed, really easy...


Enjoy your bargain beasty!

 

[arrmadillo]

Welcome!

 

[PaPa Thorn]

Welcome and what a find. At 50 bucks I'll buy those all day.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Welcome!

And x111 for the kitbreakers. Search sellers *jrc* and Lumidave35 to start.

For the front diff, be sure to buy a 6s typhon/Senton diff. The Kraton/ outcast/talion diffs are different. Center diff, the are all the same.

 

[JimmyRigs]

Thanks for the quick replies. I checked out Jennysrc.com, much better prices on things than my lhs. Thinking I’ll put some grp tires on it I run mostly in parking lots. For now I took the motor and esc and put it into my 2wd slash, it’s pretty stupid on 4s but a lot of fun.

 

[JimmyRigs]

Well I sold my rustler today so I started working on the Typhon. Front diff looks good, the center diff was epoxied solid. I managed to get the gears out without killing the case and took a torch to the gears and dropped them in water the epoxy came right off. Just hope I didn’t make the gears too brittle.
The guy I bought it from thought the gears in the front were bad and binding things up and causing the car to be twitchy when accelerating from a stop but everything is good. I have the motor and speed control in my slash and it has the same twitchiness. Almost seems like the gears are jamming up but they mesh nicely. Is this the motor or esc? It’s a v1 with the red motor and blx180 esc and I’m running on 4s.
Forgot to mention that this is intermittent. Most of the time it is fine.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Does that esc have the stock Dean's? Those were some really crappy fake Dean's, and it was common to have power drop for no reason... I swapped the plugs on my blx180 after only a few runs, never had that issue again. BUT!

The BLX180 were recalled as a fire hazard. Call Horizon, they will probably swap you a BLX185, which us a much better ESC. I put my red can motor in the box too, and they sent me the new motor too...

 

[JimmyRigs]

Does that esc have the stock Dean's? Those were some really crappy fake Dean's, and it was common to have power drop for no reason... I swapped the plugs on my blx180 after only a few runs, never had that issue again. BUT!

The BLX180 were recalled as a fire hazard. Call Horizon, they will probably swap you a BLX185, which us a much better ESC. I put my red can motor in the box too, and they sent me the new motor too...

Awesome, Thank you so much for this info I have sent them an email for more info.

It does still have the stock deans. I noticed the first time I plugged in that the connectors were off a bit. For now I’ll solder on some new deans and see if that helps.

Still need to make a decision on tires, sweep or grp. I won’t be racing at all basically just bashing in parking lots for now. I move back and forth between 2 lots neither very smooth and one has seal coating which I’ve noticed makes it a bit slicker. Once I decide I’ll get it back together and hopefully be up and running in a week or two.

 

[Notorious J]

Welcome to the forum @JimmyRigs! Seems like you've got some great info already. Since you plan on staying on the street with road tires, no need to go crazy with the dif fluid, but 100k in the center would help to balance the split front to rear a bit. Also, all stock bearings are metal shield and replacing with quality rubber sealed ones will likely give you a smoother and more hassle free rig. I'd also tear down and clean the shocks, and replace the fluid. Weight is personal preference, and there's a few threads that will help you decide what's best. A little searching will pop up some options. Check the speed build threads, as they usually have optimal road set ups. Good luck getting it all back together and let us know how it goes.

 

[Typhon6smax]

Just picked up a Typhon 6s BLX for $50, missing it's wheels and has a bad front dif. The guy I bought it off of said the center dif is locked and he thinks that is why he was having trouble killing the front dif. I'm not new to the hobby but I always stuck with traxxas 2wd's so I feel a bit lost with this, 1st Arrma and 1st 4wd. Any good threads that would be a good guide as far as what to and not to do? I've wasted more than enough money to know not to dive in head first lol.

Sounds like the same problem I had on my Typhon. My rear wheels wouldn't turn. When I opened the rear gearbox, it was full of dirt and small metal flakes. I suggest buying a new pre-assembled diff and leave the old one for spare parts.