1st Kraton, 1st Build, 1st Post

[Taylor76]

The short back story: have been into RC as a now and then hobby for a few years. Have always wanted an Arrma, and a buggy, and caught a great deal on a still brand new V2 Typhon 6s that I couldn't pass up. Immediately fell in love!

I've been wanting to do a build, but wasn't comfortable enough in my knowledge, but finally said screw it! After a bit of research, ended up going for a Kraton. Told my wife why I'd be getting packages for weeks/months and she simply said "I don't care what you do, so long as the bills get paid" Have I mentioned that I love her! haha She also said that she didn't want to know what it cost (thank God)

And so it began...

Parts List:
v4 Kraton 6s roller
M2c chassis
M2c motor mount
M2c skid plates front and rear (might not run with the TBone)
M2c droop screws
Voltage front and rear braces
Voltage rear suspension mounts
Voltage ackerman
Alza front suspension mounts
JBIRC servo plate
JBIRC wing/brace support
JBIRC servo mount
RPM arms all around
RPM mud guards
TBone wing mount
TBone front bumper
TBone wheelie bar
Amped carbon fiber center brace
ScorchedRC Titanium towers
Arrma metal diff cup for center
Jim's bearings kit
Hobbywing Max6 combo with the 1650
Tekno 20t pinion
YR dual fan heatsink
WTF 30mm fans x 2
Alza carbon fiber fan grills
**Savox SB-2292SG (waterproofed)
Typhon V4 wing
100/200/80 diff fluid
Spektrum DX5C w/6100 reciever
Yoga Matt added to battery tray (strongly recommend this as it helps with the batteries)

I think that rounds it out, but sure I'm forgetting something.

I'll post more pictures and some areas that I got hung up on when I can. Will also continue to update this thread as the build SLOWLY progresses (not a lot of free time).

So far I'm extremely happy with the way this build is coming along and I think it's making for one badass Kraton (The Kraken)

**Edit: forgot the servo, so added it in

 

[jondilly1974]

Nice! Can’t wait to see the Kraken run! Welcome to the Arrma Fam!

 

[White Noise]

That's a real nice build with some high-quality parts.

 

[arrmadillo]

That's going to be a slick build brother!
Your Ole Lady is a keeper!

 

[joostin420]

Nice ?

 

[Lride Chart]

The short back story: have been into RC as a now and then hobby for a few years. Have always wanted an Arrma, and a buggy, and caught a great deal on a still brand new V2 Typhon 6s that I couldn't pass up. Immediately fell in love!

I've been wanting to do a build, but wasn't comfortable enough in my knowledge, but finally said screw it! After a bit of research, ended up going for a Kraton. Told my wife why I'd be getting packages for weeks/months and she simply said "I don't care what you do, so long as the bills get paid" Have I mentioned that I love her! haha She also said that she didn't want to know what it cost (thank God)

And so it began...

Parts List:
v4 Kraton 6s roller
M2c chassis
M2c motor mount
M2c skid plates front and rear (might not run with the TBone)
M2c droop screws
Voltage front and rear braces
Voltage rear suspension mounts
Voltage ackerman
Alza front suspension mounts
JBIRC servo plate
JBIRC wing/brace support
JBIRC servo mount
RPM arms all around
RPM mud guards
TBone wing mount
TBone front bumper
TBone wheelie bar
Amped carbon fiber center brace
ScorchedRC Titanium towers
Arrma metal diff cup for center
Jim's bearings kit
Hobbywing Max6 combo with the 1650
Tekno 20t pinion
YR dual fan heatsink
WTF 30mm fans x 2
Alza carbon fiber fan grills
Typhon V4 wing
100/200/80 diff fluid
Spektrum DX5C w/6100 reciever
Yoga Matt added to battery tray (strongly recommend this as it helps with the batteries)

I think that rounds it out, but sure I'm forgetting something.

I'll post more pictures and some areas that I got hung up on when I can. Will also continue to update this thread as the build SLOWLY progresses (not a lot of free time).

So far I'm extremely happy with the way this build is coming along and I think it's making for one badass Kraton (The Kraken)

Killer build. Big fan of the parts picked. I love my Kraton with the 1650 in it a awesome power plant. ??

 

[Taylor76]

That's going to be a slick build brother!
Your Ole Lady is a keeper!

Hell yea she is lol

 

[Brandon]

Nice rig.

 

[Notorious J]

Welcome to the forum @Taylor76! Looking at the parts list, sounds exactly like how most of our trucks end up over time. Good idea starting with a roller and building it up to be a tank of a Kraton.???

 

[Jimbobjr]

Really nice selection of parts. You will love the motor esc combo. Was the fan mount a direct fit or did it need customizing...lot of guys are looking for a fan setup for the 4985 motor. Maybe a close up pic of the mount fitted to the motor.
Jim

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Welcome to the arrma asylum

 

[Taylor76]

Really nice selection of parts. You will love the motor esc combo. Was the fan mount a direct fit or did it need customizing...lot of guys are looking for a fan setup for the 4985 motor. Maybe a close up pic of the mount fitted to the motor.
Jim

Good call on the close up pic. I actually forgot to add that to the original group.

Welcome to the forum @Taylor76! Looking at the parts list, sounds exactly like how most of our trucks end up over time. Good idea starting with a roller and building it up to be a tank of a Kraton.???

I figured since my Typhon ended up that way, I'd just save the time and start my Kraton off that way. Plus I love the wrenching on these rigs!

 

[Taylor76]

I know many people have trouble finding a fan/heatsink for the 4985 size can. I tried a few different options.

I started off talking to one of the custom fan builders, Nicholas Tordella. After speaking with him he doesn't have anything that is a perfect bolt on for them. I got a Hobbywing C4 heatsink with the 40mm (I think that's the size) fan. I wasn't a fan, pun intended haha, of the blue, so I stripped the anodization and stretched out the heatsink. The fit was good, but have never been super excited about the pressure mount style, especially once you really get into "sending it".
I've used The Yeah Racing dual fan setup, so decided to give it a try. They also started making a red heatsink. Ordered the heatsink and some WTF 30mm fans. The YR fans have been fine on my other rig, but I've heard from many, that the WTF are superior, even if just in how well they're balanced. I wrapped some pliers in an old t-shirt, as to not scratch op the heatsink and got to bending. Because the aluminum YR uses is fairly thin, it was easy to do, especially compared to the Hobbywing C4 heatsink.
Size up, bend, size up and bend some more. I found that holding the "top" of the heatsink and slowly bending the sides helped keep the circular shape and it didn't flatten out too bad (have experienced that before). Also, because the YR was designed for a 1/8 motor and not a 1/6, like the 4985, I used longer screws to mount it to the bottom plate. Said bottom plate is smaller than the top plate, so bending that was even easier. I finished it off with Alza carbon fiber fan grills. Because they're so flat, I added a few small washers on the screws that mount the grills, to make sure there is no binding problems with the fan blades. It gave just enough clearance.
Sorry for the long winded post for something as simple as a heatsink/fan, but with so many looking for the same answer I was, I thought it was worth the time. I'm super happy with the end result. The fit is great and I think it looks awesome!

 

[Jimbobjr]

^^^thanks, good info there, looks made to fit!

 

[Taylor76]

^^^thanks, good info there, looks made to fit!

Thanks man. Wasn't hard, just had to take my time

 

[Taylor76]

So tonight I decided to rebuild the center diff using the Arrma metal cup, 200k fluid, and stainless screws. It's similar to what I have in my Typhon 6s, just heavier fluid.

One of the hangups I ran into was with the o rings on the shaft for the input cup. Once those things come out, they're a huge pain to get to stay back in. I generally use a combination of small needle nose pliers and a small jewelers flathead screwdriver. It's awkward, but gets the job done.

Another bit to keep in mind, when working with 100k + diff fluid, it's extremely thick. You almost need to spoon it in, by the time you get up to 200k, let alone anything heavier. I decided to assemble the bottom half of the cup, including the shims and planetary gear, and then putting a little bit of fluid in before installing the satellite gears. This stuff is so thick, it feels like it would take hours to settle. I then installed the satellite gears and added more diff fluid. Don't forget to add a drop of Loctite to each screw, you now have metal to metal contsct.

Now, once I finished fully assembling the diff, I ran into a new problem that I'm still facing. I went to slide the diff into the m2c motor mount and it won't go. It feels like either the Jim's bearings are a fraction of a milometer too big or the the spacing on the diff is off by the same amount. You can see in the pictures where the bearings were actually cutting into the mount when I tried to push it in. With that said, I CAN force it in, but then the diff doesn't spin as freely as it should. Almost like it's binding up the bearings, to the smallest extent.

Anyone have any ideas here?

I'm using parts from some of the best manufacturers in their businesses, so I find it hard to believe its a manufacturing defect, but can't see any mistake I could've made to cause this hang up.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I think someone else had the same problem. My bet is they designed the oal length of the diff case but forgot the gaskets .01" or so making it too long.

 

[Notorious J]

So tonight I decided to rebuild the center diff using the Arrma metal cup, 200k fluid, and stainless screws. It's similar to what I have in my Typhon 6s, just heavier fluid.

One of the hangups I ran into was with the o rings on the shaft for the input cup. Once those things come out, they're a huge pain to get to stay back in. I generally use a combination of small needle nose pliers and a small jewelers flathead screwdriver. It's awkward, but gets the job done.

Another bit to keep in mind, when working with 100k + diff fluid, it's extremely thick. You almost need to spoon it in, by the time you get up to 200k, let alone anything heavier. I decided to assemble the bottom half of the cup, including the shims and planetary gear, and then putting a little bit of fluid in before installing the satellite gears. This stuff is so thick, it feels like it would take hours to settle. I then installed the satellite gears and added more diff fluid. Don't forget to add a drop of Loctite to each screw, you now have metal to metal contsct.

Now, once I finished fully assembling the diff, I ran into a new problem that I'm still facing. I went to slide the diff into the m2c motor mount and it won't go. It feels like either the Jim's bearings are a fraction of a milometer too big or the the spacing on the diff is off by the same amount. You can see in the pictures where the bearings were actually cutting into the mount when I tried to push it in. With that said, I CAN force it in, but then the diff doesn't spin as freely as it should. Almost like it's binding up the bearings, to the smallest extent.

Anyone have any ideas here?

I'm using parts from some of the best manufacturers in their businesses, so I find it hard to believe its a manufacturing defect, but can't see any mistake I could've made to cause this hang up.

It was @olds97_lss who mentioned this in another post. Search it out and you'll see how specific he was about the measurements.

 

[Taylor76]

I know it's been a while. Sorry guys I'm terrible at posting in a timely manner.

I ended up going back to the Arrma v4 mount. I de-anodized it, for that sexy raw look and BAM, slid right in without issue.

I added an aluminum diff mount from Alza Racing to finish off the aluminum look and add more strength.

All bearings are also changed out to standars Jim's Bearings.

In the picture above you can see I shaved the lip off of the stock ESC mount. I did that in preparation of mounting the Hobbywing Max 6. I've seen many people struggle with adhesives, zip ties, etc. but I figured there had to be a better way.

I traced the outer edge of the ESC, making my own stencil. I then laid that on the bottom and poked holes through it where the holes are in the bottom of the ESC. I flipped the stencil over, laid it on the esc plate and drilled 3 small holes (the 4th location was off the edge of the plate. I then used a combination of Scotch all weather 20lb adhisice and 3 small holes to mount the Max6 to the plate. If that sucker comes off, it was never meant to be!

 

[Mongoose]

That is one sexy mammajamma! Awesome build and even better craftsmanship.