Typhon 2.8 tires and wheels for Typhon, where to find

[Sharp1]

Hey all, so the boy wants a "monster truck" rc for Christmas. While shopping around and talking to LHS they recommended ARRMA. I obviously got the itch so I picked up a Typhon on sale 3S on sale, while I debated on what to get him. I mean he has to have someone to bash with right??

I was torn between the 4x2 Boost Granite and just going ahead and getting him the Granite 3s. Then I was thinking heck just buy anopther Typhon 3s and convert to BigRock.

I think that is the route I am going to go with the price of the Typhon being $100 off. Now I am having trouble finding a wheel and tire setup for more "truck" look. Everyone talks about the badlands MX2.8 but they are nowhere to be found. Can anyone tell me where to get something that im looking for? I would prefer something that bolts right up. Am I going to need adapters etc?

I had a 2wd slash and have a set of trencher 2.8 that I would run on that sometimes. I know these are not 17mm though, would i be better off getting adapters for these?

Help me out. or is this a silly idea and just get him the granite 3s? I was thinking the longer wheelbase may help him with driving, and would be money ahead considering the typhon 3s is currently $100 cheaper.

 

[slick2500]

I really liked the Proline Badlands MX28 tires on my Typhon, just get the ones with the Raid wheels https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...es-mounted-12mm-blk-raid-2/PRO1012510.htmland and the 17mm adapters https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-6x30-to-17mm-hex-adapters/PRO633600.html. I've tried Trenchers and I didn't really care for them.

 

[DLK83]

Here's the smaller Pro-line Badlands on my daughter's 3s Typhon, they measure just a hair over 4.5" on the car... They're not "MT" big, but they make it look alot less like a buggy, they're light, and they hook up good on pretty much any surface.. the mx28, at least the belted HP version, is too firm for these lighter cars, they spun real hard in the grass, terrible traction, and they wore really fast on any pavement driving

And on the Typhon vs the Granite, if he likes wheelies, go with the Granite, it's a wheelie machine lol..my other daughter has a Granite, and neither one them likes driving the other one's car, so it's definitely a preference thing..

 

[slick2500]

Here's the smaller Pro-line Badlands on my daughter's 3s Typhon, they measure just a hair over 4.5" on the car... They're not "MT" big, but they make it look alot less like a buggy, they're light, and they hook up good on pretty much any surface.. the mx28, at least the belted HP version, is too firm for these lighter cars, they spun real hard in the grass, terrible traction, and they wore really fast on any pavement driving

View attachment 259117

View attachment 259118
And on the Typhon vs the Granite, if he likes wheelies, go with the Granite, it's a wheelie machine lol..my other daughter has a Granite, and neither one them likes driving the other one's car, so it's definitely a preference thing..

I am yet to find anyone who actually likes the belted Proline tires. From what I have heard all of the belted tires are harder than the non belted variants.

 

[Sharp1]

Here's the smaller Pro-line Badlands on my daughter's 3s Typhon, they measure just a hair over 4.5" on the car... They're not "MT" big, but they make it look alot less like a buggy, they're light, and they hook up good on pretty much any surface.. the mx28, at least the belted HP version, is too firm for these lighter cars, they spun real hard in the grass, terrible traction, and they wore really fast on any pavement driving

View attachment 259117

View attachment 259118
And on the Typhon vs the Granite, if he likes wheelies, go with the Granite, it's a wheelie machine lol..my other daughter has a Granite, and neither one them likes driving the other one's car, so it's definitely a preference thing..

This will be his first real RC. I’m sure he would love wheelies but I’m anticipating having vehicle set at 50% for a good while while he learns to drive. The wheels and tires you have pictured, can the be bought as a set or will you need adaptors as well?

 

[DLK83]

I am yet to find anyone who actually likes the belted Proline tires. From what I have heard all of the belted tires are harder than the non belted variants.

Yup, I even tried the belted mx28 hp's on my 6s Typhon as well, and that was even worse.. absolutely horrible in the grass, on 4s it was almost tolerable with the extra weight of the 6s car, but on 6s, forget it, it would just fry them off... and i even bought the over priced Pro-line aluminum hubs because the plastic ones break immediately on 6s power

This will be his first real RC. I’m sure he would love wheelies but I’m anticipating having vehicle set at 50% for a good while while he learns to drive. The wheels and tires you have pictured, can the be bought as a set or will you need adaptors as well?

They come with 12mm removable hubs if I remember right, but you can buy 14 and 17mm hubs to put on them to run on a Granite or Typhon

 

[slick2500]

Yup, I even tried the belted mx28 hp's on my 6s Typhon as well, and that was even worse.. absolutely horrible in the grass, on 4s it was almost tolerable with the extra weight of the 6s car, but on 6s, forget it, it would just fry them off... and i even bought the over priced Pro-line aluminum hubs because the plastic ones break immediately on 6s power

They come with 12mm removable hubs if I remember right, but you can buy 14 and 17mm hubs to put on them to run on a Granite or Typhon

Oh those are the normal 2.8 Badlands, I thought they were the Badlands MXs for buggies.

This will be his first real RC. I’m sure he would love wheelies but I’m anticipating having vehicle set at 50% for a good while while he learns to drive. The wheels and tires you have pictured, can the be bought as a set or will you need adaptors as well?

They are sold as pairs and come default with 12mm hexes https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...-tires-mounted-12mm-blk-raid-2/PRO117310.html
You will need the 17mm hex adapters I linked above.

 

[Sharp1]

Ok, so quick math. After buying body stands, bumpers, chassis side protectors, wheely bar, body and then new tires and wheels the $100 cost savings of the typhon 3s is gone. Tires and adapters alone will dang near eat that up.

Looks like I will be getting him the Granite 3s or Big Rock, sure would be nice if they would put them on sale haha. He wants a "red" one and the granite 3s can be had in red. So leaning that direction.

I appreciate everyone's responses.

 

[slick2500]

Ok, so quick math. After buying body stands, bumpers, chassis side protectors, wheely bar, body and then new tires and wheels the $100 cost savings of the typhon 3s is gone. Tires and adapters alone will dang near eat that up.

Looks like I will be getting him the Granite 3s or Big Rock, sure would be nice if they would put them on sale haha. He wants a "red" one and the granite 3s can be had in red. So leaning that direction.

I appreciate everyone's responses.

As an alternative you can always get take offs from the Big Rock, swap in Bug Rock stub axles and 14mm hexes.

Tires https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...es-wheels-tyres-rims-dboots-ragnarok-ar102711

Stub Axles https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/wheel-axle-2-4x4/ARAC9443.html

Hexes https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...-metal-wheel-hex-hubs-granite-senton-ar102711

$51.74 before any tax and shipping.

 

[Sharp1]

That is a better option @slick2500 but I would still need a truck body. I wanted a conversion to make sense but just don't think it does. I will be picking up some of those badland mt's for my typhon though I believe.

 

[slick2500]

That is a better option @slick2500 but I would still need a truck body. I wanted a conversion to make sense but just don't think it does. I will be picking up some of those badland mt's for my typhon though I believe.

Yeah truck bodies for that wheelbase are few and far between.

 

[Velodromed]

Hey bud and welcome! I love it when kids are involved. The typhon is a killer deal but to convert it to a big rock would run a good bit. Since the typhon is a long wheel base maybe try a short wheelbase granite. They are a blast to jump and stunt. Here are the MX28s on Amazon. They are my favorite tire.

Pro-line Racing 1/10 Badlands MX28 Fr/Rr 2.8" MT Tires Mounted 12mm Blk Raid (2), PRO1012510 https://a.co/d/bvQoL2D

This body fits great and is very tough (see pic) I fit it on a typhon I converted to a monster truck then upgraded it with many of the 4s parts.
J Concepts Inc. 1/10 '79 F250 SuperCab Monster Truck Clear Body 12.75 WB JCO0329 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/3DaARax

I want to try this one next
J Concepts Inc. 1/10 1988 Chevy Silverado Extended Cab Monster Truck Clear Body 13" Wheelbase JCO0339 Car/Truck Bodies Wings & Decals https://a.co/d/cughYYS

Look for 300-325mm wheelbase bodies when you’re searching.

 

[Velodromed]

Oh, think twice about the stock big rock tires. They are not great. Plus the typhon has 17mm hex which are really good so you’ll want to keep them. The MX28s hex is changeable from 12-14-17mm. The granite bumper is sturdy and protects better than the typhon.

A lot of people run wings on their big rock, but I’d save it for when the main typhon wing breaks, which will happen. If you decide to paint a body figure on 8-11 bucks per can and minimum of 1.5-2 cans. If you do multiple colors of course would be more. Frog Tape leaves clean lines and I like it. A good razor blade is needed also. It’s not at all difficult to paint a one or two color body.

 

[Sharp1]

Does anyone have any pictures of a typhon with a truck body with factory wheels and tires?

 

[slick2500]

Does anyone have any pictures of a typhon with a truck body with factory wheels and tires?

Kind of. Tires aren't stock but they are still buggy tires.

This is the body off of an Ecx Ruckus.

 

[Sharp1]

Thanks @slick2500

 

[Sharp1]

@slick2500 @Velodromed Is there a sticky somewhere on must do items before driving the 3s line? I have seen some things on lock tite the driveshafts so the wheels don't fall off, set end points on steering, throttle, check spur gear mesh etc. Anything else?

My Typhon arrived today and I guess I will be getting the boy a Granite 3s. I want to have everything ready come Christmas morning. Going to be a long 4 weeks not being able to drive anything haha. Figured I could tinker in evenings after he goes to bed.

 

[Velodromed]

@slick2500 @Velodromed Is there a sticky somewhere on must do items before driving the 3s line? I have seen some things on lock tite the driveshafts so the wheels don't fall off, set end points on steering, throttle, check spur gear mesh etc. Anything else?

My Typhon arrived today and I guess I will be getting the boy a Granite 3s. I want to have everything ready come Christmas morning. Going to be a long 4 weeks not being able to drive anything haha. Figured I could tinker in evenings after he goes to bed.

Here’s a quick list off the top of my head…
Loctite the metal axles retaining bolt to the plastic driveshafts

Open differentials and top off with diff oil 1/8” below the top. Be careful that you don’t mess up the gasket or get oil in the pin/bolt holes.

Open up the shocks, fill them up and properly bleed.

Check every bolt to make sure it’s tight (but not to tight).

Check that the mesh is right and there are washers beneath the motor mount bolts. I usually swap them out for socket heads.

Check your spur, but don’t tighten it up all the way before you loosen it. That’s a good way to strip out the rear spur hub. Go by soft feel and test it. It’s easy to adjust on the fly by running a 2mm driver up the spur hub while it’s still installed.

I am a firm believer in shoo gooing the body. I like fiberglass concrete wall tape, which is heavier duty than regular drywall fiberglass tape. I use one tube of goo. Anymore adds more weight then I like. It’s also good to put cushioning on top of the shock towers to prevent body damage. I use cut up rubber honeycomb oven pad things.

Check all the electronic connectors. Make sure they’re tight and right.

Lastly, set your endpoints. Be very careful about doing this properly.
Now go look up those videos!

 

[Sharp1]

Here’s a quick list off the top of my head…
Loctite the metal axles retaining bolt to the plastic driveshafts

Open differentials and top off with diff oil 1/8” below the top. Be careful that you don’t mess up the gasket or get oil in the pin/bolt holes.

Open up the shocks, fill them up and properly bleed.

Check every bolt to make sure it’s tight (but not to tight).

Check that the mesh is right and there are washers beneath the motor mount bolts. I usually swap them out for socket heads.

Check your spur, but don’t tighten it up all the way before you loosen it. That’s a good way to strip out the rear spur hub. Go by soft feel and test it. It’s easy to adjust on the fly by running a 2mm driver up the spur hub while it’s still installed.

I am a firm believer in shoo gooing the body. I like fiberglass concrete wall tape, which is heavier duty than regular drywall fiberglass tape. I use one tube of goo. Anymore adds more weight then I like. It’s also good to put cushioning on top of the shock towers to prevent body damage. I use cut up rubber honeycomb oven pad things.

Check all the electronic connectors. Make sure they’re tight and right.

Lastly, set your endpoints. Be very careful about doing this properly.
Now go look up those videos!

Perfect thank you

 

[Velodromed]

Perfect thank you

Feel free to ask any questions man. I know the 3S line like the back of my hand lol.