Raider 2013 Arrma Fury diff parts questions.

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biggman100

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
  2. 4x4-Mega
I have actually been looking into this for quite awhile. I have a 2013 spec Fury, that is constantly having diff issues, and i have seen posts about upgrading to the 2014 diff, but, cant find a couple of the parts, so, i started looking into the composite diff swap, but, i am not sure if i have all the necessary parts on the list i made. Here is what i have on the list:

AR310597-0.8M COMPOSITE GEAR SET, AR310600-INPUT SHAFT 60.5MM (PLASTIC MOTORPLATE GEARBOX), AR310601-0.8M GEARBOX SET (PLASTIC MOTORPLATE), AR310762-METAL INPUT SHAFT GEAR 15T 0.8MOD (1PC) If i need anything else, let me know.

Since it is brushless, with a Castle Sidewinder SCT, im not sure how well the composite gears would hold up though.

I was trying to swap to the 2014 diff, using these parts:

AR310001 Gearbox Set Granite Raider, AR310016 Idler Gear 20T Metal, AR310599 Input Shaft 59mm BLX 2014, AR320007 Motor Mount Plate Raider Fury Vorteks Granite Mojave, AR310378 Differential Gear Maintenance Set : Raider / Fury and Vorteks BLX, and AR310416-48P METAL GEAR SET, but, i cant find the AR310416 anywhere.

I want to try and save my Fury as long as possible, but, just this year alone, i have had issues with either the spacers getting coned, or, on this last one, the one gear shattered, the pin broke, and the output broke the end off when it all locked up. It has happened 5 times just this year, but, it is the only good 2WD i have, and, since i like that truck, id like to try and keep it running if possible. I still have 3 complete 2013 diff's, so, another idea i had was just replace the washers behind the gears that attach to the outdrives with something thicker (the ones that keep getting coned. Ihave 3 good diffs, all with that same problem), but, so far, i haven't found anything that will work, so, any ideas there would be greatly appreciated. I have tried everything from 10K-50K diff oil, and had the slipper pretty loose, and it still does it. I just don't want to replace it with another truck, if i can keep it working.
 
I did find these shims, that from a video i watched, said they would work better than the stock ones: Xray washer s 5x15x0.3 10 XRA964050 Has anyone tried them, and did they work?
 
I have 2 sct models and a bls model and ive broke all 3. Burnt the used bls esc up first run on the 2s lipo it came with and then ripped out the composite gears out within 3 days i had it. The oldest sct stripped a idler gear up for no apparent reason but is still functional and finding that gear is not happening aside from finding a parts car. My newest was brand new in box and i broke the dogbone and bent both differential output shafts and the wheel input shaft and breaking a pin in the diff all at once. Finding parts is near impossible so I decided to throw a "Losi Complete Gear Diff: 22S LOS232039" from ebay at her. Its slightly slimmer than the original so I had to add a couple washers to it in the gearbox but seems to be holding up on my newest fury with the stock metal gears. I however added a 58t 32p metal spur and 17t 32p pinion at the same time while running 2S. It runs amazing once it gets moving, if any little thing is there it all it don't wanna go. Its either the new ratio or the ebay special esc/motor combo not having enough torque. Regardless the diff was something i had to try and i couldnt resist putting the .8 spur/pinion mod on at the same time so im not really doing a good assessment. Ima try the original 87t spur soon to see how it does after ive got it good and broke in haha. I have a diff kit coming in and hopefully i get the original fixed. I also have the composite .8 mod gears coming in including the input shaft metal gear for it. Hopefully someone has some more interested info out theres
Cheers
 
I have 2 sct models and a bls model and ive broke all 3. Burnt the used bls esc up first run on the 2s lipo it came with and then ripped out the composite gears out within 3 days i had it. The oldest sct stripped a idler gear up for no apparent reason but is still functional and finding that gear is not happening aside from finding a parts car. My newest was brand new in box and i broke the dogbone and bent both differential output shafts and the wheel input shaft and breaking a pin in the diff all at once. Finding parts is near impossible so I decided to throw a "Losi Complete Gear Diff: 22S LOS232039" from ebay at her. Its slightly slimmer than the original so I had to add a couple washers to it in the gearbox but seems to be holding up on my newest fury with the stock metal gears. I however added a 58t 32p metal spur and 17t 32p pinion at the same time while running 2S. It runs amazing once it gets moving, if any little thing is there it all it don't wanna go. Its either the new ratio or the ebay special esc/motor combo not having enough torque. Regardless the diff was something i had to try and i couldnt resist putting the .8 spur/pinion mod on at the same time so im not really doing a good assessment. Ima try the original 87t spur soon to see how it does after ive got it good and broke in haha. I have a diff kit coming in and hopefully i get the original fixed. I also have the composite .8 mod gears coming in including the input shaft metal gear for it. Hopefully someone has some more interested info out theres
Cheers

Hi Daathangle could you post pics of the Losi differential mounted on the fury, how many washers did you use and the thickness.
 
Hi Daathangle could you post pics of the Losi differential mounted on the fury, how many washers did you use and the thickness.
Well it lasted till the other day. It ate 3 teeth off my middle idler gear. I thought it was the diff but aside from it being almost dry inside its fine. Ive been running it hard on 3s too. Seriously i put it to the test and it held up phenomenally. Ill post pics when i get off work. I was using copper washers/spacers because thats all i had lol but there may be a better material to use
 
Well it lasted till the other day. It ate 3 teeth off my middle idler gear. I thought it was the diff but aside from it being almost dry inside its fine. Ive been running it hard on 3s too. Seriously i put it to the test and it held up phenomenally. Ill post pics when i get off work. I was using copper washers/spacers because thats all i had lol but there may be a better material to use
I finally went and found an MIP ball diff for the HPI Blitz and just installed that, but, now i am having axle pin and hex issues. If the axle pins don't break, the composite hexes either snap in half or round off and ruin the wheel, so now i am on the hunt for either an axle with larger pins, and matching hubs, or, at the very least, clamp style aluminum hexes, but, so far, every clamp style i find is too big to fit the Fury's axles.
 
I finally went and found an MIP ball diff for the HPI Blitz and just installed that, but, now i am having axle pin and hex issues. If the axle pins don't break, the composite hexes either snap in half or round off and ruin the wheel, so now i am on the hunt for either an axle with larger pins, and matching hubs, or, at the very least, clamp style aluminum hexes, but, so far, every clamp style i find is too big to fit the Fury's axles.
Ive snapped 2 axels. But i haven't dealt with that with the losi diff. Whats the mip ball diff look like? Im looking into losi 22s parts to see what all is compatible. And sorry everyone i cannot get the pics to upload? Im doin this on my phone and i cant attach the files.... I don't get it. But im using 3 washers that are .04" thick on the micrometer. They are just barely bigger than the bearing itself.
 
Ive snapped 2 axels. But i haven't dealt with that with the losi diff. Whats the mip ball diff look like? Im looking into losi 22s parts to see what all is compatible. And sorry everyone i cannot get the pics to upload? Im doin this on my phone and i cant attach the files.... I don't get it. But im using 3 washers that are .04" thick on the micrometer. They are just barely bigger than the bearing itself.
Ball diffs arent like the Fury/22S diff at all. They have a main gear with tiny ball bearings in it, that rides on two plates. The attached pic shows the MIP diff. I have a 22S, and honestly never thought to see if the hubs and axles would work in the Fury. Ill have to look into it, after im done changing the spur gear i destroyed in my Team C TS2.

MIP Ball Diff.jpg
 
Ball diffs arent like the Fury/22S diff at all. They have a main gear with tiny ball bearings in it, that rides on two plates. The attached pic shows the MIP diff. I have a 22S, and honestly never thought to see if the hubs and axles would work in the Fury. Ill have to look into it, after im done changing the spur gear i destroyed in my Team C TS2.

View attachment 108202
How do you attach pics!?!? Lol so that type of diff is destroying your axels and hubs? Ive just started resting diff setupa and the 10k diff fluid. Makes a huge difference
 
How do you attach pics!?!? Lol so that type of diff is destroying your axels and hubs? Ive just started resting diff setupa and the 10k diff fluid. Makes a huge difference
No, the diff isnt what is causing my issue. The issue i am having is caused by the fact that i am running more power than the truck was originally designed for. My axle pins that hold the hexes on are roughly half the size of the pins in the 22S in diameter, and, the hexes themselves are composite plastic, and werent designed for major power even on 2S, but, i think i found a solution to the issue i am having. The 22S has longer axles, links, and lower arms, by roughly 3/8 of an inch per side, but, just to see if it would work, pulled the parts off my 22S to see if they would fit the Fury, and, with a little modification, they will, so i am just going to look for a used 22S for parts. The 22S can take some serious punishment on 3S, so i doubt i will hurt them on 2S in the Fury.

As for adding pics, it depends on if you are on a desktop/laptop, or a mobile device.
 
Gotcha. I was hoping that more of the 22s parts would be compatible, i was goin out on a limb and looking for possibilities. I found a brand new arrma diff case with idler gear spec 2013 after i got the 22s so i got a new gearcase and shaft gear and built a brand new transmission using 10k diff lube .8mod 57t metal spur and 12t pinion. I honestly cant believe how quiet it is and how smooth its running now! Using 3s (lol) i cant get full throttle w/o catching air and launching into flips and skids. The original dboots didnt like cyclone spins and both rear tires blew up lol and they were still really meaty.... 2s is the most the fury is somewhat accepting of... Im honestly surprised i haven't ran into that issue with the way im running it, i was literally just seeing how hard i could push it today and all i could manage was just the tires saying they were done haha! Im having trouble with the axels staying in and not popping out now tho. Nothing is wore down, they are the right size and everything so idk whats goin on there....
 
Gotcha. I was hoping that more of the 22s parts would be compatible,.
They 22S parts will work, you just have to shave down the end of the lower arm where it connects to the chassis, because the 22S arms are a little wider there, but, other than that, everything else will connect right up. It does add a small bit of width to the rear of the truck, but not enough to really hurt anything, or throw anything off. As for the axles popping out, do you mean the dogbones pop out? They make a longer set of dogbones for the fury that helps with that problem.
 
Yes the dogbone. And i found out that i had 2 different size of em in the fury haha. Do used 22s go for much? I honestly haven't looked
 
Yes the dogbone. And i found out that i had 2 different size of em in the fury haha. Do used 22s go for much? I honestly haven't looked
In the last 6 months, i have only found 2 or 3 22S rollers, and they were $100 or more. Even on Ebay, parts and rollers are scarce, unless its new parts.
 
What would you suggest for replacement hubs and casters? My steering has gotten really wobbly. Ive determined that my hubs are bout shot. I run the crap out of my fury and she don't stop lol id rather get stronger front and rear hubs and casters. And then would i need new upper/lower front arms and rear arms too? Im about to do another shot in the dark on a random set for the 2wd granite set, i think it'll work but idk, i cant find anything on the subject
 
What would you suggest for replacement hubs and casters? My steering has gotten really wobbly. Ive determined that my hubs are bout shot. I run the crap out of my fury and she don't stop lol id rather get stronger front and rear hubs and casters. And then would i need new upper/lower front arms and rear arms too? Im about to do another shot in the dark on a random set for the 2wd granite set, i think it'll work but idk, i cant find anything on the subject.
Im not sure where you are located, but, you can get every suspension part, including hubs, c-hubs, , lower and upper arms still. You can also get a complete set of rubber shielded bearings from a couple different places. As for sloppy steering, it might be an issue with the servo saver, which is also available still. The only parts not available for that line of vehicles are the metal rear diff and gears, but, if you do the MIP ball diff upgrade, you can use the stock 83MM dogbones, outdrives and hubs. Even the steering links and ball ends are available. Ebay has pretty much every available part you could ever need for it. Best bet is to download the manual (its on here), that way you have the needed part numbers.
 
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