2019/12/10 Bashing the ERBEv2 with a max6/BLX2050 and my outcast 6S

[olds97_lss]

Was supposed to be 50F out on Sunday... it reached 35F with 15-20mph winds... I ran anyway. Wanted to see how the max6/blx2050kv did in my ERBEv2. Also wanted to run my outcast again before installing the other max6 I'll be getting for Christmas.

So far, the last diff shimming/rebuild I did on the outcast is holding up really well. Sounds good, runs nice and quiet. Ran it pretty hard for a couple sets of packs. I had backed the spring retainers off as I had intended on shelving it until Spring and when doing so, I noticed one of my rear shock springs is about 3/4" shorter than the other when uncompressed. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't crank them down as far as before when I went to run it which made the rear end fish tail a lot. I'll get some new springs on order. I hadn't run it since I installed the Scorched RC titanium ackerman bar/axle carrier flanges either. Took quite a few nasty tumbles and everything is good still. Was surprised with the cold that something didn't break. Especially the RPM wing mount which I boiled.

I did break the front body mounts at the skate park:

The max6/blx2050kv seems to perform really well. The old HPI F360C (MMv1) it replaced was very chattery at anything below 1/4 throttle with sporadic cogging and a somewhat unpredictable power curve due to lack of punch settings. The max6 just worked. I had to dial the brakes back from 50% as they were a bit aggressive. Even with the punch just at 3, it really puts the power down well. Had some center diff issues that became increasingly more evident as I ran the truck, but I ran it hard anyway.

Shattered my TBone rear skid wheelie bar into pieces, snapped bolts off the TBone front skid and ripped a bolt out of the bulkhead holding the skid on. Also snapped my wing mount 2 minutes into the run. Odds are, tbone would replace the skid piece, but I'm not going to bother with them.

Busted skid/wheelie bar:

When I got home, I made a new rear skid/wheelie bar attachment piece out of a sheet of kydex, looked into the 3mm screws that hold the front skid on that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead. Drilled them out and retapped and put 4mm bolts in. Then last night decided to look at the center diff. It's a total pain in the balls to get to as you have to remove the front skid, front tower and entire front assembly to get the transmission out as the front/center slider doesn't allow enough movement to slide off the transmission.

Found that the 4 screws holding the diff together had all backed out and when the concrete 20M "oil" warms up, it oozes out. The inside of the trans case was a mess of grease and silicone oil/goo. Cleaned it all up, took the diff apart and it had about 1/3 of what it should have left in it. This time I packed it full of the silicone puddy, then gently heated the alloy diff case with a torch, then gently worked the more pliable goo down into the gears more and was able to fill it better than before. Also cleaned all the screws, screw holes and then used orange loctite on them. Hopefully this improves the lack of center diff control dumping all the power to the front. While reinstalling, I increased the pinion again from the 18T I put on when putting in the 2050kv to a 19T. The speed check put it right at 50mph with the 18T, but with all the power going to the front, not sure how accurate that was. It feels slower than the outcast by a hair.

 

[Notorious J]

Was supposed to be 50F out on Sunday... it reached 35F with 15-20mph winds... I ran anyway. Wanted to see how the max6/blx2050kv did in my ERBEv2. Also wanted to run my outcast again before installing the other max6 I'll be getting for Christmas.

So far, the last diff shimming/rebuild I did on the outcast is holding up really well. Sounds good, runs nice and quiet. Ran it pretty hard for a couple sets of packs. I had backed the spring retainers off as I had intended on shelving it until Spring and when doing so, I noticed one of my rear shock springs is about 3/4" shorter than the other when uncompressed. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't crank them down as far as before when I went to run it which made the rear end fish tail a lot. I'll get some new springs on order. I hadn't run it since I installed the Scorpion titanium ackerman bar either. Took quite a few nasty tumbles and everything is good still. Was surprised with the cold that something didn't break. Especially the RPM wing mount which I boiled.

I did break the front body mounts at the skate park:

The max6/blx2050kv seems to perform really well. The old HPI F360C (MMv1) it replaced was very chattery at anything below 1/4 throttle with sporadic cogging and a somewhat unpredictable power curve due to lack of punch settings. The max6 just worked. I had to dial the brakes back from 50% as they were a bit aggressive. Even with the punch just at 3, it really puts the power down well. Had some center diff issues that became increasingly more evident as I ran the truck, but I ran it hard anyway.

Shattered my TBone rear skid wheelie bar into pieces, snapped bolts off the TBone front skid and ripped a bolt out of the bulkhead holding the skid on. Also snapped my wing mount 2 minutes into the run. Odds are, tbone would replace the skid piece, but I'm not going to bother with them.

Busted skid/wheelie bar:

When I got home, I made a new rear skid/wheelie bar attachment piece out of a sheet of kydex, looked into the 3mm screws that hold the front skid on that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead. Drilled them out and retapped and put 4mm bolts in. Then last night decided to look at the center diff. It's a total pain in the balls to get to as you have to remove the front skid, front tower and entire front assembly to get the transmission out as the front/center slider doesn't allow enough movement to slide off the transmission.

Found that the 4 screws holding the diff together had all backed out and when the concrete 20M "oil" warms up, it oozes out. The inside of the trans case was a mess of grease and silicone oil/goo. Cleaned it all up, took the diff apart and it had about 1/3 of what it should have left in it. This time I packed it full of the silicone puddy, then gently heated the alloy diff case with a torch, then gently worked the more pliable goo down into the gears more and was able to fill it better than before. Also cleaned all the screws, screw holes and then used orange loctite on them. Hopefully this improves the lack of center diff control dumping all the power to the front. While reinstalling, I increased the pinion again from the 18T I put on when putting in the 2050kv to a 19T. The speed check put it right at 50mph with the 18T, but with all the power going to the front, not sure how accurate that was. It feels slower than the outcast by a hair.

Nice job Brian! so many things I loved about these videos. The grass jumps seemed better now that the ground is a little hard, and the grass is compressed from the cold. Felt like the rigs were getting solid grip and jumping way better. Also like the skate park scenes using the different areas for transitions and such. The distance launches were also pretty insane. Definitely enjoyed the angles you shot from too. Seemed much closer to the action. I could sooooo see these videos having a light soundtrack in behind to compliment the great driving. Well done???

 

[olds97_lss]

Ever since you mentioned "I wish you were closer to the action" before, I keep that in mind every time I run now. Although, a couple of those jumps nearly took my head off! #WorthIt

I thought about adding music... can never find the right tune and a year from now when rewatching, I think "what was wrong with me in picking that song?!?". Although, with electric, I may start adding music. With nitro, I like hearing the song of the RC, but unless I'm testing something I want to hear with electric, the "whirr whirr whirr" just isn't as melodic.

That one launch with the ERBEv2 at the skatepark was how I cracked my previous chassis on that thing. That trench in the landing area of the big jump has large pointy rocks in it. Which is exactly where it landed this time. Didn't notice any damage from that though.

THe super high one from the thumbnail wasn't on purpose. That jump has a nearly straight up side to it and a distance side. The straight up side I usually hit slower for flips. The other side I usually hit at higher speed for distance. It's only about 6 feet wide and I was a foot or so to far to the left. Sent that puppy to the moon! Glad it was the outcast I did it with as the ERBEv2 may have blown some shock pistons!

 

[Crewchief227]

Nice. It make me ? though, because my Son's ERevo VXL is now completely Arrma powered with a BLX 185 & 2050kv + Tactic radio. He broke his trx reciever antenna trying to remove it. I redid the 1/4 wavelength shielding, but we haven't range tested it yet.

 

[olds97_lss]

Nice. It make me ? though, because my Son's ERevo VXL is now completely Arrma powered with a BLX 185 & 2050kv + Tactic radio. He broke his trx reciever antenna trying to remove it. I redid the 1/4 wavelength shielding, but we haven't range tested it yet.

Got my v2 as a roller and never actually used the traxxas radio/receiver/servos when it was brand new as a v1. It was my first electric (non micro) RC 3 years ago. Always ran it on 4S because I didn't want to break sliders/diffs constantly. Even then, I had to replace the sliders at least once a season as they would stretch/egg out and break otherwise. I got it brand new and before I ran it I swapped the radio out for spektrum and servos out for something else as I knew the traxxas ones were junk. That was when they used a rebranded castle MMv2/2200kv (MXL-6S) system. I ran that system for 3 years as a v1 on 4S and the esc died on me on my second bash on 6S after transferring everything over the the 2.0 chassis. I had an old spare hpi F360C from my used savage flux which was a non-waterproof rebranded MMv1. Pretty old tech and felt far less refined than even the MXL-6S and way less than this Max6 BLX2050kv setup.

It feels better than the BLX185/2050kv in my outcast, so I'm glad my wife is getting me another Max6 to put in that. Without having my punch up to 4 or 5 in the outcast, the throttle is a bit sketchy when I try to hammer it up the face of a jump. Instead of limiting current, it almost feels like it delays it, so it hesitates unpredictably. Didn't notice that when I ran 4S in the outcast with the punch at 3, but it was very sketchy when on 6S, so I had to crank up the punch, which I didn't want to do as it's harder on the diffs, which for me have been problematic.

The max6 so far feels great. Very predictable with plenty of grunt even at punch 3, brakes well set at 25%. The bash at the bmx track was at 50% brake and after the first couple of jumps where I endo'd hard, I dialed back the travel on my remote to 75% brake which helped. Then when switching out the packs and heading to the skate park, I adjusted the esc to 25% and put the travel back to 100% and it did really well.

With the center diff redone and the 19T pinion, it should pick up speed faster, so I'm looking forward to my next bash with it. Although, the temps dropped 25 degrees here, so no big jumps for a while.

 

[Crewchief227]

Got my v2 as a roller and never actually used the traxxas radio/receiver/servos when it was brand new as a v1. It was my first electric (non micro) RC 3 years ago. Always ran it on 4S because I didn't want to break sliders/diffs constantly. Even then, I had to replace the sliders at least once a season as they would stretch/egg out and break otherwise. I got it brand new and before I ran it I swapped the radio out for spektrum and servos out for something else as I knew the traxxas ones were junk. That was when they used a rebranded castle MMv2/2200kv (MXL-6S) system. I ran that system for 3 years as a v1 on 4S and the esc died on me on my second bash on 6S after transferring everything over the the 2.0 chassis. I had an old spare hpi F360C from my used savage flux which was a non-waterproof rebranded MMv1. Pretty old tech and felt far less refined than even the MXL-6S and way less than this Max6 BLX2050kv setup.

It feels better than the BLX185/2050kv in my outcast, so I'm glad my wife is getting me another Max6 to put in that. Without having my punch up to 4 or 5 in the outcast, the throttle is a bit sketchy when I try to hammer it up the face of a jump. Instead of limiting current, it almost feels like it delays it, so it hesitates unpredictably. Didn't notice that when I ran 4S in the outcast with the punch at 3, but it was very sketchy when on 6S, so I had to crank up the punch, which I didn't want to do as it's harder on the diffs, which for me have been problematic.

The max6 so far feels great. Very predictable with plenty of grunt even at punch 3, brakes well set at 25%. The bash at the bmx track was at 50% brake and after the first couple of jumps where I endo'd hard, I dialed back the travel on my remote to 75% brake which helped. Then when switching out the packs and heading to the skate park, I adjusted the esc to 25% and put the travel back to 100% and it did really well.

With the center diff redone and the 19T pinion, it should pick up speed faster, so I'm looking forward to my next bash with it. Although, the temps dropped 25 degrees here, so no big jumps for a while.

I got the Max6 4985 1650kv combo in my Notorious on a Tekno 21t pinion, and honestly I think I could still go a tooth or two higher without temp issues. The Max6 is a beast?. Run mine on 6S 100C pack, punch 5, and it rotates so fast in the air it's crazy. The only problem I have now is shredding tires?. But my lovely Wife bought the last set of Backflips on Jenny's yesterday for my Christmas present. So I can't wait for those?. I just did a batt tray mod I'm going to make a post about later today (so solid I could carry the truck by it).

 

[olds97_lss]

I got the Max6 4985 1650kv combo in my Notorious on a Tekno 21t pinion, and honestly I think I could still go a tooth or two higher without temp issues. The Max6 is a beast?. Run mine on 6S 100C pack, punch 5, and it rotates so fast in the air it's crazy. The only problem I have now is shredding tires?. But my lovely Wife bought the last set of Backflips on Jenny's yesterday for my Christmas present. So I can't wait for those?. I just did a batt tray mod I'm going to make a post about later today (so solid I could carry the truck by it).

I used those T-nuts on my battery tray on the outcast. It's pretty solid now. I'm fine with how the blx2050 performs, but when I gear it up with a 14T and the trencher 3.8's, it overheats the esc after about 10 minutes when running at the grass bmx. Even with a 13T, if I push it really hard it will thermal on me after 15 minutes. That combined with the weird hesitation/punch, I just wanted to try something more capable, so I added that to my list for Christmas and my wife ordered it. There are a couple jumps at the bmx that I need just a tad more speed to clear nicely than what 13T can do. So hoping the max6 lets me gear up to the 14T as that is just about perfect.

Then HW dropped the price on the max6 to $126 on black Friday and I couldn't resist buying one for the revo.