24v Power Supply for DC chargers. Somebody here must know how to make em.

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crimsonfancy

A guy that won't give up easily.
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This one comes well reviewed but I know we can build one for so much less with confidence and skills. Just need 4mm bullets to xt60 to power your Hota and ISDT chargers. It's a 12-24v switchable server power supply re-purposed.
MaxAmps is proud of their stuff but this isn't so bad for being artr.
I've also seen this much power for about $100 already built for RC and ready to go on ebay but can't find the seller anymore.
If I can't find the custom seller, I may get one. I want to charge 2x 6s packs fast on my dual Hota and / or run multiple DC chargers.
https://www.maxamps.com/24v-maxamps-power-supply-47a-1150w
 
Ok, I found the seller (he's been shown at this forum before) and if you're looking for power, this is the ticket. I'll probably contact him again and pick one up for so much less than the branded stuff. I'm confident that communication will get us customization and prices are even better than before.
How many watts do we really need? I say, all of em....

http://www.lipoconnectionsolutions.com/24v-Power-Supplies_c14.htm

edit: here's his fb page is you want to see his process.
https://www.facebook.com/LipoConnectionSolutions
 
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Been doing power supplies for decades, so here goes.

Meanwell makes very good supplies. They're called "Open Frame" supplies, and come in many different voltage and current outputs. You'll have to add your own power cord and output leads, and may want to mount it to a base, but for a reasonably priced, bullet-proof power supply, I turn to Meanwell. eBay or Amazon should have them listed, and possibly Newegg. Just look for a 24VDC supply with a current rating in the range you want, and it'll last forever. I've got some Meanwell supplies that are 15+ years old, and still work perfectly.

If you want a "finished" supply in a box with connectors, look into an Astron supply. I know they make some 24VDC supplies, and probably in a usable current range. Good commercial supplies, but not cheap.
 
Been doing power supplies for decades, so here goes.

Meanwell makes very good supplies. They're called "Open Frame" supplies, and come in many different voltage and current outputs. You'll have to add your own power cord and output leads, and may want to mount it to a base, but for a reasonably priced, bullet-proof power supply, I turn to Meanwell. eBay or Amazon should have them listed, and possibly Newegg. Just look for a 24VDC supply with a current rating in the range you want, and it'll last forever. I've got some Meanwell supplies that are 15+ years old, and still work perfectly.

If you want a "finished" supply in a box with connectors, look into an Astron supply. I know they make some 24VDC supplies, and probably in a usable current range. Good commercial supplies, but not cheap.
I use Meanwell for industrial purposes at work all the time. Have yet to have a single one fail. These things hold up under the most ridiculous environments. Inside a NEMA box up on a pole. They get -17F in the winter and 150F in the summer (inside the NEMA box) and they just run.
 
Been doing power supplies for decades, so here goes.

Meanwell makes very good supplies. They're called "Open Frame" supplies, and come in many different voltage and current outputs. You'll have to add your own power cord and output leads, and may want to mount it to a base, but for a reasonably priced, bullet-proof power supply, I turn to Meanwell. eBay or Amazon should have them listed, and possibly Newegg. Just look for a 24VDC supply with a current rating in the range you want, and it'll last forever. I've got some Meanwell supplies that are 15+ years old, and still work perfectly.

If you want a "finished" supply in a box with connectors, look into an Astron supply. I know they make some 24VDC supplies, and probably in a usable current range. Good commercial supplies, but not cheap.

Thanks for the insight!
What do you think of the ones at the links above? I don't think I'll need a 12v tap and probably only a single set of 4mm bullets. I can't imagine ever needing to charge more than 2x 6s packs at the same time especially fast. I do like the option of a 6ft ac splitter cord because I'm limited on outlets in my shop. He says and shows video of him bench testing everything he builds and sells.
This is what I'm looking at:

http://www.lipoconnectionsolutions.com/HP-24v-38A-1000w-Power-Supply-4mm-Bullet-Output-HP241000.htm
 
Thanks for the insight!
What do you think of the ones at the links above? I don't think I'll need a 12v tap and probably only a single set of 4mm bullets. I can't imagine ever needing to charge more than 2x 6s packs at the same time especially fast. I do like the option of a 6ft ac splitter cord because I'm limited on outlets in my shop. He says and shows video of him bench testing everything he builds and sells.
This is what I'm looking at:

http://www.lipoconnectionsolutions.com/HP-24v-38A-1000w-Power-Supply-4mm-Bullet-Output-HP241000.htm


Those look like repurposed computer power supplies for rack-mount servers. They might say "HP" or "Dell" on them, but they're made by somebody else. Computer parts like power supplies, fans, and memory are pretty generic these days. If you know how to solder (and you should learn!) just get the wire and connectors, buy an "open frame" power supply from Digi-Key, Mouser, eBay, or Amazon, and make up your own.
 
Those look like repurposed computer power supplies for rack-mount servers. They might say "HP" or "Dell" on them, but they're made by somebody else. Computer parts like power supplies, fans, and memory are pretty generic these days. If you know how to solder (and you should learn!) just get the wire and connectors, buy an "open frame" power supply from Digi-Key, Mouser, eBay, or Amazon, and make up your own.

I can solder but don't enjoy the process because I'm not very good at it lol. I don't have a hobby shop nearby so I pretty much had to do it with my quadcopters. I also don't have the confidence with high output electrics. I realize they're server power supplies and HP or Dell doesn't mean much to me but for the cost of his, work finished, tested and supported, I think they're a win. Others here have bought from him but maybe they're not active anymore...I wish I could get some feedback. The difference he says on his social media between the Dell and HP is the room to do the soldering work. HP offers more room and allows for more customization and security. Makes sense I guess.
I often don't mind to buy the best and most capable but unless I'm missing something, $100 is plenty good investment for me and worth it if he backs up his work as he says he does. For the Meanwell I found, I'd spend the same money, have to do the soldering and purchase the additional components, and still only get 600w. This was Amazon price though...
 
Do you actually need 24V? What charger are you using? I'm using a 75A, 900W, 12V power supply from www.rlpower.net, $60.
 
I don't know about the HP power supply, but the Dell is a Z750P-00.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Power...9822?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c4#viTabs_0

The Dell uses a bladed connector, I believe it is an FCI Power Blade. You can download the PDF datasheet from Mouser (it's the first link I found).
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/51721-10002406AALF?qs=qx6aj1b02SLGcpfzvT5a9g==

You could start from there and find a mating connector.

The HP uses an edge connector, it's pretty standardized. You could look around to find one or just solder straight to the pads on the PCB and then cover them up with something so they don't accidentally short out on something, like if you drop a screwdriver on it.

The other thing you should think about, is your typical 120V wall outlet will only supply about 120V*15A=1800W. I don't know what the rated efficiencies of the power supplies are, but say they are 85%, then 750/.85=882W, and 882*2=1764W, you are just barely under the max power of a 15A circuit breaker. Just something to think about.
 
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This thread is way above my pay grade! Keep posting I have some studying to do. Thanks for the info so far.
 
I don't know why I missed it the first time, but in the image in the ebay link, the max input current of the Z750P-00 is 9.3A. So two in parallel could/will put you over the 15A breaker depending on input requirements of the battery charger.
 
Do you actually need 24V? What charger are you using? I'm using a 75A, 900W, 12V power supply from www.rlpower.net, $60.
Seems lots of the latest gen of big power chargers are limited on the input amps. These ISDT and clones cant hit the big watts without 24v input.
 
This is what I asked the guy one year ago. His selection of power supplies varies. I assume he buys from used servers or is in IT and takes leftovers from upgrades or re-installs to make a side gig for himself.
Unfortunately he doesn't explain why he's concluded that I need that 960w

1571672074532.png

I don't know why I missed it the first time, but in the image in the ebay link, the max input current of the Z750P-00 is 9.3A. So two in parallel could/will put you over the 15A breaker depending on input requirements of the battery charger.

When we wired the shed, I'm almost positive we put a 30a breaker in my breaker box
 

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I looked up the Hota D6 Pro Dual and it says 650W output at 94% efficiency.
http://www.hota-exp.com/index.php/pro_v_1_8.html

Assuming their efficiency is correct that is an input power required by the battery charger of 650/.94=692W. That power supply he recommended is probably the cheapest he sells that's more than 692W output. Either that or it's the most profitable. Or it's the one with the largest inventory at the time. Nobody could really ever know. :)

It really won't make a difference what you set the output for on the battery charger (current, C rating, etc) the battery charger should only consume the rated input power as a worst case scenario. Unfortunately Hota does not specify the input power, only the output power and efficiency.

At less than 700W DC input the Hota charger will be way under a 15 amp breaker. If your IEC rack power supply is 85% efficient then it's 692W/.85=813W of power supply input power to acheive 692W of output power. On 120VAC it's 813W/120V=6.8A of power supply current input. That's maybe 2/3 the power of the typical microwave oven, no problem for a 15A breaker.

P=Vi, or power = voltage*current (Watts=volts*amps). Not trying to patronize anyone, no idea who is reading this. Divide or multiply by efficiency to get input vs output. output=input*efficiency

You don't have to worry about efficiencies if ratings are published for both input and output. If there one is missing, then 85% is a conservative efficiency assumption. Since the 1990s nearly everything will be better than 85%, especially if it originated in a brand name IEC rack.
 
You really don't need a "Tightly Regulated" supply; that's what the charger does. All you really need is what we used to call a "Raw Supply" (rectified and filtered, but NOT regulated) with a enough current to keep the charger happy.

BUT....that was then, in the linear power supply days, and this is now, where everybody uses switching supplies.

As long as whatever 24VDC supply you get can put out enough current to keep the charger operating correctly, you should be golden.

I tend to stay away from "cheap" power supplies, as I've seen too many Bad Things happen when the supply goes TU and takes out everything downstream from it.....
 
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