Granite 2S Brushless system for Arrma Granite Mega 4x4

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No_Traction

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
I've had this truck for about a month and I'm really enjoying it. However, since it's ALL plastic I know I can't go crazy. I don't really want to go into crazy speed. I'm looking to get something that might offer
a 20% increase in speed and be more efficient and essentially maintenance free (from motor perspective). I was considering the HobbyWing MAX10 SCT 3660 combo from Hobbywing for 1/10 scale 4x4 SCT and Monster Trucks.

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...cts/ezrun-max10-sct-combo?variant=27756665553

If this would work, should I be considering the 3200 or 4000 KV? Should I step down from 3660 to 3652 for the regular MAX 10?
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/ezrun-max10-combo?variant=27757683857

Or is Brushless and Reliability a pipe dream for this truck?

Are there any BLX parts I could add that would aid in this convesion?

Thanks for your help!
 
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After my own research I've decided to go with the SCT set.

So my real question now is what parts are needed immediately from the BLX truck to make this not fail in 10 minutes, and what can I wait for u til it breaks?
 
Diffs, metal input shafts, the center shaft with a bearing support.

I would have suggested the castle sct sv3/3800kv combo. Not a ton of torque, but runs well on 2S. I ran it on my stampede for a year on 2S. Then I switched to 3S and before spring/summer temps got here, I decided to also try the HW Max10 SCT/3200kv combo. Unfortunately, it was after I ran across @bicketybam 's thread regarding his cogging issues.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/hobbywing-max10-sct-issues-video.10880/unread?new=1

So far, the max10 sct/3200kv setup on 3S is working fine as far as I can tell in my stampede 4x4.
 
Read that whole thread. Hard for me to discern if it just wasn't made for his gearing or if I should look elsewhere. I'll definitely look into castle.
 
I'm not convinced you really need the BLX diffs anymore. With the 17t HD diff input, you can keep the stock Granite diffs if you want. Dispite the difference in the number of teeth, the actual gear ratio of both the Mega and BLX granite diffs are almost identical. The plastic case and metal internals of both diffs are the same, so it isn't like one is stronger than the other inside. About the only advantage to the BLX diffs is that they come filled with oil instead of grease. Of course the oil is, in my opinion, too light so you will want to replace it anyway. The HD diff inputs are definitely needed, but I don't really think the diffs themselves are. I'm running a 4300kv 550-size motor with the 17t pinion and 91t spur on 2S, and the stock diffs with HD inputs have held up fine so far.

I did get the driveshaft support bearing because it was cheap and I was already ordering other stuff. Can't really say how much it helped, but it certainly didn't hurt!

Only other thing is that you will likely want a better slipper clutch setup eventually. The stock one isn't going to explode or anything, it just doesn't have a ton of holding power. Still, you can decide for yourself if it is a problem and your truck might end up a little kinder to slipper pads than mine was. It's worth at least trying to stock setup first to see how it feels, but I'd be surprised if you didn't decide to upgrade it before too long.
 
The teeth on the both the ring gear and input gear are much larger and stronger than the mega parts. Whether you need it for 2s is debatable. Probably not. But the teeth size and strength is the big difference. On 3s I trashed a bunch of the mega diffs/input gears.
 
The teeth on the both the ring gear and input gear are much larger and stronger than the mega parts. Whether you need it for 2s is debatable. Probably not. But the teeth size and strength is the big difference. On 3s I trashed a bunch of the mega diffs/input gears.
Thanks bicketybam . I think 3s will be an eventuality. Depends on if I get the speed bump I want from 2s.
I'm not convinced you really need the BLX diffs anymore. With the 17t HD diff input, you can keep the stock Granite diffs if you want. Dispite the difference in the number of teeth, the actual gear ratio of both the Mega and BLX granite diffs are almost identical. The plastic case and metal internals of both diffs are the same, so it isn't like one is stronger than the other inside. About the only advantage to the BLX diffs is that they come filled with oil instead of grease. Of course the oil is, in my opinion, too light so you will want to replace it anyway. The HD diff inputs are definitely needed, but I don't really think the diffs themselves are. I'm running a 4300kv 550-size motor with the 17t pinion and 91t spur on 2S, and the stock diffs with HD inputs have held up fine so far.

I did get the driveshaft support bearing because it was cheap and I was already ordering other stuff. Can't really say how much it helped, but it certainly didn't hurt!

Only other thing is that you will likely want a better slipper clutch setup eventually. The stock one isn't going to explode or anything, it just doesn't have a ton of holding power. Still, you can decide for yourself if it is a problem and your truck might end up a little kinder to slipper pads than mine was. It's worth at least trying to stock setup first to see how it feels, but I'd be surprised if you didn't decide to upgrade it before too long.
Well that would save some cash. I was pricing everything out and it was like $103 for all the parts to build the spur and slipper clutch assembly, 2 diffs, 2 input gears, pinion, drive shaft bearing. (Jenny's RC is out out of the pre-made assembly and I can't find it anywhere else. So instead of $27 it's $44 piecemeal) . Definitely should have waited for the BLX. o_O:cry:

But if you're saying I can get away with the driveshaft and bearing, the 2 input shafts, and maybe the upgraded slipper, well that sounds a bunch better. Less than $40. Plus I already bought the FastEddy bearin set. I mean, worse case l have to buy the extra stuff. Still, when I think of the fact that getting all the BLX stuff plus brushless setup is about $200, I almost want to buy the BLX for $100 more.

I just bought a couple cars from Banggood to play with so my spending money is done for a month or so. Will update when the parts come in.
 
If you really just want to see how 2S feels with the new motor and ESC, then I think you can get away with nothing but the 17t HD diff inputs at an absolute minimum. I'd say an upgraded slipper would be my priority #2, but the stock one should last long enough to give you an idea how fast the new electronics are. Everything else should generally survive 2S for a while.

I've been running my truck on 2S for a few months now with that 4300kv motor and the steel spur gear and haven't broken anything in the drivetrain. I take the truck off ramps and land badly, pull wheelies, rock the car back and forth to flip it over, and go cartwheeling across my yard after a traction roll regularly. The truck makes it out for a run probably four or five days a week as I use it to help get our dog some exercise and let him chase it around. I don't send it off ramps every day, but probably once a week pull a ramp out and spend a pack jumping it. The body is beat to hell, but the stock Granite Mega driveshaft, propshafts, and diffs (with silicone diff oil in them) haven't broken yet. The shocks leak a little, I've snapped an a-arm hitting a post, and I had a wheel come off because the nylon insert in the wheel nut wore out, but the drivetrain has been fine on 2S. The battery I generally run is a 6500mAh MaxAmps 'dual-core', so it is probably delivering about as many amps as you could expect from a 2S battery. While the claimed 150C is bull, it is still a strong battery.

I'm not saying the Granite 4x4 Mega's are indestructible, but if you are only going to use 2S for the moment, I don't think you need to go crazy with the upgrades just to try that out. Start with the diff inputs and see what you actually break or wear out after that. If you find out that 2S just isn't enough, or you smash way more parts than I do, you can just sell the truck and buy the 3S version instead. Now, if you just like to tinker (lord knows I do), then go ahead and get all the things and have fun poking around in the truck's guts!
 
If you really just want to see how 2S feels with the new motor and ESC, then I think you can get away with nothing but the 17t HD diff inputs at an absolute minimum. I'd say an upgraded slipper would be my priority #2, but the stock one should last long enough to give you an idea how fast the new electronics are. Everything else should generally survive 2S for a while.

I've been running my truck on 2S for a few months now with that 4300kv motor and the steel spur gear and haven't broken anything in the drivetrain. I take the truck off ramps and land badly, pull wheelies, rock the car back and forth to flip it over, and go cartwheeling across my yard after a traction roll regularly. The truck makes it out for a run probably four or five days a week as I use it to help get our dog some exercise and let him chase it around. I don't send it off ramps every day, but probably once a week pull a ramp out and spend a pack jumping it. The body is beat to hell, but the stock Granite Mega driveshaft, propshafts, and diffs (with silicone diff oil in them) haven't broken yet. The shocks leak a little, I've snapped an a-arm hitting a post, and I had a wheel come off because the nylon insert in the wheel nut wore out, but the drivetrain has been fine on 2S. The battery I generally run is a 6500mAh MaxAmps 'dual-core', so it is probably delivering about as many amps as you could expect from a 2S battery. While the claimed 150C is bull, it is still a strong battery.

I'm not saying the Granite 4x4 Mega's are indestructible, but if you are only going to use 2S for the moment, I don't think you need to go crazy with the upgrades just to try that out. Start with the diff inputs and see what you actually break or wear out after that. If you find out that 2S just isn't enough, or you smash way more parts than I do, you can just sell the truck and buy the 3S version instead. Now, if you just like to tinker (lord knows I do), then go ahead and get all the things and have fun poking around in the truck's guts!

Great info. Thanks. Yeah, I'm more likely to keep it, tinker, and spend nearly twice as much. LOL. But I'll also have a better understanding of how it works. Can't thank everyone enough. Very glad to have the input and see that this is an active community.
 
Great info. Thanks. Yeah, I'm more likely to keep it, tinker, and spend nearly twice as much. LOL. But I'll also have a better understanding of how it works. Can't thank everyone enough. Very glad to have the input and see that this is an active community.
Hey No Traction,

I just posted a mega gearbox with the Hot Racing steel spur gear and corresponding 17t pinion.

If you're going with a motor that has a 5mm shaft, this will be a good base. I'd recommend the HD 17 tooth input gear for the rear differential.

On a Granite, the driveshaft support nearing isn't as critical as the driveshaft is was shorter than the BRCC, Typhon or Senton.

Essentially just get the speed controller and motor in with this stuff and you'll be pretty Rock solid on 2S from my experience. I run into all kinds of poop and it holds up pretty well.
 
Both of my Granites are running the Max10SCT with the 3660 3200 KV. both have the HD input in the rear only, stock driveshafts, BLX slipper and 15T pinion, and the BLX motor mounts and I have the Hobbywing program card with the punch set on 3 for both. My 2 boys have beat the crap out of them for like 50 packs (5000MaH 50C discharge 2s gensacearespammers Lipos) or so since the upgrade. The only thing they have broken since then have been shocks (due to poor driving). The trucks accelerate almost twice as fast and wheelie like there is no tomorrow. I have plans to upgrade to the BLX inputs and diffs, but have not had an issue yet, and they are wide open the whole time they are running almost ( they are 9 and 11 yrs old). Hope this helps.
 
I replaced my front diff input as well, mostly because I had it apart anyway, but the stock one never actually broke on me. I guess having the long, plastic driveshaft to help absorb some of the torque hit is much kinder to the diff inputs.
 
I replaced my front diff input as well, mostly because I had it apart anyway, but the stock one never actually broke on me. I guess having the long, plastic driveshaft to help absorb some of the torque hit is much kinder to the diff inputs.
Only reason I didn't do the front was because I am upgrading the diff eventually, but to run the BLX slipper you have to change the input pinion on the rear, the stock mega input pinion will not work with the BLX slipper clutch
 
Wait, you can run the BLX input gear with the mega diff? I thought that the gear pitch is different.

A friend of mine just upgraded his mega to brushless and I told him that he needs to change the diffs if he’s input gear will fail.
 
Wait, you can run the BLX input gear with the mega diff? I thought that the gear pitch is different.

A friend of mine just upgraded his mega to brushless and I told him that he needs to change the diffs if he’s input gear will fail.
No you can't use the BLX input pinion with the mega diff. Different pitch between the 2 models diff/input gears. There is a mega HD input pinion you have to use that will work with the BLX slipper and the mega diffs.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...MIypHW5Kjd4QIVDlYMCh3WYAAgEAQYASABEgIZ_vD_BwE
 
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