3 out of 4 Tire nuts will not come off! Arrma Felony

[Curbspank]

I have been reading around and some people are saying that they might have cross threaded them at the factory?

The odds of 3 out of 4 doesn't seem right to me.

Are there any tricks or am I missing something? I have switched to a 17mm socket wrench, tried heat, 3 of them still won't budge.

The center allen screw doesn't have to come out right?

I don't know at this point I am ready to just break them off.

 

[Twitchfast]

The allen screw shouldn't need to be removed to get the wheel nuts off, though I will suggest if you ever try to undo that screw, use heat because they're threadlocked to hell and back.
Three of mine broke free after ungodly force, the fourth stripped the head and I had to use a blowtorch.

As for the nuts, I cannot fathom why they would be stuck unless they really are crossthreaded on, in which case I'd hit up that warranty real quick.

 

[jondilly1974]

Allen grubs are only removed to remove the entire wheel hex, but not the nut. If your wheel nuts are on that hard, maybe they have thread lock on them. ??‍

Do you have a metric socket set? You can try using a breaker bar with a 17mm socket. It shouldn’t be necessary but if you can’t get them off with the included 4-way wrench, drastic times call for drastic measures.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I highly doubt they are cross threaded.. you would see that on the end of the hex threads, the anodizing would be peeled off and the shown threads would be shiny aluminium...

They are just that tight.. a constant steady pressure should release them from the plastic of the wheel.. the nuts have to move plastic before they release..

Put the rig on the table..stand above it, hold the rim and tire firmly in one hand.. position your ratchet so it is facing you, 90 degrees parallel to the surface your working on... use your other hand to apply downward force on the ratchet.. don't be afraid to lean your body weight onto it...

If your trying to pull the ratchet it will never happen.. push the ratchet..?

Or grab a 3/8 or 1/2 impact from somebody you know in the auto industry and let it eat..?.. just be sure to use a 6 point socket or the hex nuts will be spent quick like..?

 

[TooManyHobbies]

I highly doubt they are cross threaded.. you would see that on the end of the hex threads, the anodizing would be peeled off and the shown threads would be shiny aluminium...

They are just that tight.. a constant steady pressure should release them from the plastic of the wheel.. the nuts have to move plastic before they release..

Put the rig on the table..stand above it, hold the rim and tire firmly in one hand.. position your ratchet so it is facing you, 90 degrees parallel to the surface your working on... use your other hand to apply downward force on the ratchet.. don't be afraid to lean your body weight onto it...

If your trying to pull the ratchet it will never happen.. push the ratchet..?

Or grab a 3/8 or 1/2 impact from somebody you know in the auto industry and let it eat..?.. just be sure to use a 6 point socket or the hex nuts will be spent quick like..?

I use my electric impact on my Kraton 8S and Limitless wheel nuts. No problems going on or coming off, plus you're not putting any stress on the wheels making sure they don't spin as you tighten them. Have had zero round off even with taking the wheels off wayyyy to many times to count. Obviously you want to start the nut by hand, because crossthreading isn't exactly ideal lol

 

[SrC]

My very early release Limitless had the same, 3 of 4 nuts that would simply not come off. I spent a while carefully trying just minutes out the box. Frustrating. I called HH right then and there and they agreed to send me 2 pairs of hoons. HUBs bearings and nuts and hexes no issue. I told them I would have to cut them off and destroy all these parts if all else failed. I used a torch on the hex nuts assuming some idiot at the factory used RED TL all over the nuts. Like even HH stated could be the case. I hung up with HH. They said it would ship that day. I ended up getting a 17mm 1/2 socket and foot long breaker bar. I got them off. I slipped and cut my hand no less doing one wheel. Awkward on the bench. Almost needed a vice to mount the LIm to get leverage. The wheels were crushed into the hub. The nuts were buried beyond the hex threads. What a mess. The wheels were all distorted and plastic crushed at the hubs. I saw no sign of TL at all. They must have used an automotive impact gun set to 300ft pounds of torque. Honestly it must have been a running joke or something going on at the factory. Seriously. Probably the same guy who assembled your wheels on. The hubs, bearings, hexes,nuts and wheels were junk. You cant make this crap up. But HH didn't even blink an eye and said what parts do you need or want? But screwed on that tight was not by accident. Impossible.
Edit: I guess even in China there must be labor issues and disgruntled employees. ?‍

 

[SrC]

Old tread....
I might ad that I will NEVER buy an early release Arrma anything again.
I learned from my Noto and 6S Kraton which were somewhat flawed out out the box, but my early released Lim was the worst example of any Arrma rig I have seen. It needed close to $200. in parts that were ruined from assembly. HH obliged no issue, however there was no reason I should pay for an "assembled" RTR roller and have to dismantle, replace parts and reassemble 90% of the whole dam thing out the box.

>Chassis was bent/ badly stamped and crooked at the front.
> Front hubs and 2 bearings were mangled.
> Pivot ball nuts were cross threaded and loose.
> One shock cap was leaking also cross threaded. Several shock cap Bleeder screws were stripped out.
> Front diff was locked up. Needed a new sun gear cross pin and internal diff set and shims. Diff cup distorted as a result. Bricked.
> Fr/ Rr diff cups had a few stripped screws at the ring gears
> Needed 3 new wheels.
> Wheel axle hex's and nuts all damaged.
> Front splitter retaining screws were all stripped out, so I needed a bumper brace also.
> Front bulkhead cover screws were stripped into the bulkhead.
> Front sway bar composite ball end was over tightened and cracked.
> Both Front Canards(spoilers) screws were stripped out. (at bumper brace)
> Body windshield stickers/Decal were way off crooked and peeling off, as were much of the rest. But Windshield bothered me the most.
>Center spool set screw loose, almost falling out.
> Wheel alignment was the the worst I have ever seen in any of my Arrma rigs. ( pivot balls were over tight on one side and other side was too loose) Refer to above Pivot ball nuts cross threaded; ruined Fr. hubs.
> Motor mount screws had the notoriously super amount of Red Thread lock on the screws. Why they even put TL on there is anyone's guess, because this is a Roller and no motor is mounted to it begin with. The screws hex's were damaged despite using a torch on them.

Much of the above was replaced by HH. And some were of these issues were discovered subsequently and I paid for these parts myself.
I like my Lim now, but it was far from any of my favorite builds and most frustrating. I would put it down for weeks at a time because of that.

Never, ever, buy an early release Arrma. New model, Hyped or not, I swore no more. I'll let others be the guinea pigs for HH from now on.
Great design and products, But I see that QC is a very low priority for HH. Maybe its part of their $bottom$line. Zero QC if any. ?‍
Children are making/assembling these rigs. Its very apparent. But that's another complete topic....

Sorry for the long rant on an old thread.