3S BLX series shocks

wisceaux

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I recently acquired a used BRCC. The front shocks, and one I particular, are leaking badly. I’ve ordered two AR330451 kits and some Team Associated green slime to rebuild them. My question is this: how long will this keep them from leaking, in everyone’s experience? Will I need to spend $10 and the time rebuilding them every couple months, twice a year, etc? I’m curious if it just makes sense to invest in some other shocks entirely as opposed to rebuilds. Or does a good rebuild with green slime actually keep them from leaking?
 

Mital

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I recently acquired a used BRCC. The front shocks, and one I particular, are leaking badly. I’ve ordered two AR330451 kits and some Team Associated green slime to rebuild them. My question is this: how long will this keep them from leaking, in everyone’s experience? Will I need to spend $10 and the time rebuilding them every couple months, twice a year, etc? I’m curious if it just makes sense to invest in some other shocks entirely as opposed to rebuilds. Or does a good rebuild with green slime actually keep them from leaking?
My shocks are also leaking im trying to get my hands on the traxstar 1/8 shocks but sold out
 

slick2500

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I recently acquired a used BRCC. The front shocks, and one I particular, are leaking badly. I’ve ordered two AR330451 kits and some Team Associated green slime to rebuild them. My question is this: how long will this keep them from leaking, in everyone’s experience? Will I need to spend $10 and the time rebuilding them every couple months, twice a year, etc? I’m curious if it just makes sense to invest in some other shocks entirely as opposed to rebuilds. Or does a good rebuild with green slime actually keep them from leaking?
Here ya go man.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...-blx-4s-shocks-upgrades-and-information.7413/

Arrma Mega 4x4, BLX 3s and BLX 4s shocks.

  • Stock front shocks for the Mega and BLX 3s are 100mm eye to eye.
  • Stock rear shocks for the Mega and BLX 3s are 115mm eye to eye.
  • Stock front shocks for the 4s models are 106mm eye to eye.
  • Stock rear shocks for the 4s models are 121mm eye to eye.
As we all know the 1/10 4x4 lineup of shocks leak really bad, when they aren't leaking they actually work very well.

@Camaroboy383 Had this to say and also found a nice mod to fix the shocks.

Camaroboy383 said:
The issues with the 3s and 4s shock line is the way they are manufactured for assembly.. the o-ring housing has a lid that snaps on to compress the o-rings, the pressure exerted on the o-rings is not enough to properly seal the shaft.. a washer or two can be added to the assembly under the plastic cap to compensate and add more pressure... only so much pressure can be added before the cap doesn't latch anymore, wish they had molded a land for the cap to sit against when tightening, many of the leaky shock issues we see wouldnt be a problem.. the hr shock bodies do incorporate the land machined into the body to provide adequate pressure for sealing, as well as nice o-rings...

That being said my biggest gripe about the 4s and 3s line isnt the leaking, its the shock shafts with the molded rod ends... 🤦‍♂️ I'm waiting on some standard style 4mm shafts, and will be using the nero 6s rod ends and spring perches...it will be so nice to just unscrew the rod end and install a new one.. (if they even break anymore)

Another thing to note if changing the shafts or switching to the hr bodies is that the land for the piston is not deburred from the factory.. they have an extremely sharp hard edge and can tear the o-rings on assembly if not careful... I typically take some 800-1000 grit and knock back that hard edge so I know for sure no matter what they wont tear at the o-ring..
Click to expand...
View attachment 57745

Here is a fix from @Camaroboy383 for the molded shock rod end problem https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/3s-and-4s-guys-solution-to-molded-rod-ends.17061/

Here are some options for other shocks.

Hot Racing Shocks 3s models.

YOU WILL RECEIVE:
- Two 2) rear shock bodies
- Two 2) Screw-on o-ring cap eliminates the plastic seal retainer
- Two (2) aluminum spring adjusters/collars
REQUIREMENTS:
- Silicone shock oil, assembly, bleeding, and installation per Arrma recommendations
- Existing stock shock components
Hot Racing shocks 4s models are the same as the 3s models just different size.

Arrma Typhon 6s shocks -
The best place to source these is from JennysRC.
For the Arrma Typhon shocks you will need something to take up the slack in the upper mount most use either steel balls out of shock rod ends or nitro fuel line.

HSP Shocks -
A lot of people have used these shocks with great results. They are HSP Front 81003 and HSP Rear 81002 shocks. These will also require either the steel balls or nitro fuel line to take up the space in the upper mount. Remember that these are cheap Chinese shocks, they work okay but do not expect much for quality.
Big Bore eBay shocks -
Cheap ebay shocks these also need either steel balls or fuel line in the top. These shocks do not have bladders and can be a bit tricky to bleed, some users have had issues with the stock pistons having too small of holes, the rod ends are pretty poor and they tend to leak.
Trackstar Shocks - these appear to now be discontinued
Springs that come with these are rather stiff for the 3s line and should be swapped out to whichever spring of your choice. They may work for the 4s models I have not tested them yet. And again will need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
Basher Sabertooth shocks -
Also need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
Hot Bodies shocks -
Rather expensive and you will want to change out the springs. Also need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
HPI Racing Big bore shocks.
Pretty much the same thing as the Hot Bodies shocks.(part numbers break down to be the same, except for the shock adjustment collars, they are different colors) To note the lengths posted for the HB Racing shocks are the total length of the shock, for the HPI they are the eye to eye measurements.
ZD Racing Shocks -

Tekno Racing Shocks -

For 3s models you will want the shocks off the SCT410. Differences between these kits are listed above.
For the 4s models you will want MT410, E/NT48.3 or E/BNB48.4 shocks.

Thunder Tiger MT4 K Rock Shocks.
These will also require something to take up the space in the upper shock mount. These shocks are plastic bodied with aluminum caps and they use preload clips. The springs on these will be too firm for the Granite or Senton, they work great on my truggified Typhon 3s.


For the upper mount when using other shocks on your Mega, 3s or 4s model use Axial part number AXA1356 https://www.amazon.com/Axial-AXA1356-Silicone-Shock-Bushing/dp/B0051W7R1M

Last edited: Apr 9, 2020
 
Last edited:

wisceaux

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Here ya go man.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...-blx-4s-shocks-upgrades-and-information.7413/

Arrma Mega 4x4, BLX 3s and BLX 4s shocks.

  • Stock front shocks for the Mega and BLX 3s are 100mm eye to eye.
  • Stock rear shocks for the Mega and BLX 3s are 115mm eye to eye.
  • Stock front shocks for the 4s models are 106mm eye to eye.
  • Stock rear shocks for the 4s models are 121mm eye to eye.
As we all know the 1/10 4x4 lineup of shocks leak really bad, when they aren't leaking they actually work very well.

@Camaroboy383 Had this to say and also found a nice mod to fix the shocks.


View attachment 57745

Here is a fix from @Camaroboy383 for the molded shock rod end problem https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/3s-and-4s-guys-solution-to-molded-rod-ends.17061/

Here are some options for other shocks.

Hot Racing Shocks 3s models.

YOU WILL RECEIVE:
- Two 2) rear shock bodies
- Two 2) Screw-on o-ring cap eliminates the plastic seal retainer
- Two (2) aluminum spring adjusters/collars
REQUIREMENTS:
- Silicone shock oil, assembly, bleeding, and installation per Arrma recommendations
- Existing stock shock components
Hot Racing shocks 4s models are the same as the 3s models just different size.

Arrma Typhon 6s shocks -
The best place to source these is from JennysRC.
For the Arrma Typhon shocks you will need something to take up the slack in the upper mount most use either steel balls out of shock rod ends or nitro fuel line.

HSP Shocks -
A lot of people have used these shocks with great results. They are HSP Front 81003 and HSP Rear 81002 shocks. These will also require either the steel balls or nitro fuel line to take up the space in the upper mount. Remember that these are cheap Chinese shocks, they work okay but do not expect much for quality.
Big Bore eBay shocks -
Cheap ebay shocks these also need either steel balls or fuel line in the top. These shocks do not have bladders and can be a bit tricky to bleed, some users have had issues with the stock pistons having too small of holes, the rod ends are pretty poor and they tend to leak.
Trackstar Shocks - these appear to now be discontinued
Springs that come with these are rather stiff for the 3s line and should be swapped out to whichever spring of your choice. They may work for the 4s models I have not tested them yet. And again will need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
Basher Sabertooth shocks -
Also need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
Hot Bodies shocks -
Rather expensive and you will want to change out the springs. Also need steel balls or nitro fuel line.
HPI Racing Big bore shocks.
Pretty much the same thing as the Hot Bodies shocks.(part numbers break down to be the same, except for the shock adjustment collars, they are different colors) To note the lengths posted for the HB Racing shocks are the total length of the shock, for the HPI they are the eye to eye measurements.
ZD Racing Shocks -

Tekno Racing Shocks -

For 3s models you will want the shocks off the SCT410. Differences between these kits are listed above.
For the 4s models you will want MT410, E/NT48.3 or E/BNB48.4 shocks.

Thunder Tiger MT4 K Rock Shocks.
These will also require something to take up the space in the upper shock mount. These shocks are plastic bodied with aluminum caps and they use preload clips. The springs on these will be too firm for the Granite or Senton, they work great on my truggified Typhon 3s.


For the upper mount when using other shocks on your Mega, 3s or 4s model use Axial part number AXA1356 https://www.amazon.com/Axial-AXA1356-Silicone-Shock-Bushing/dp/B0051W7R1M

Last edited: Apr 9, 2020
Thanks for this, and sorry that I missed it! Do you happen to know if anyone has created a video tutorial of how to implement @Camaroboy383 ‘s washer fix?
 

slick2500

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Thanks for this, and sorry that I missed it! Do you happen to know if anyone has created a video tutorial of how to implement @Camaroboy383 ‘s washer fix?
Basically you need to add an extra oring inside the bottom, that attachment that goes to a blank page used to be a picture of what to do. Not sure what happened or where it went though.
 

wisceaux

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Basically you need to add an extra oring inside the bottom, that attachment that goes to a blank page used to be a picture of what to do. Not sure what happened or where it went though.
I recently bought and received today two AR330451 shock part kits (https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330451) and some FT Green Slime (https://www.associatedelectrics.com...tails/1105-ASC1105-ft_green_slime_shock_lube/). There are a couple of YouTube videos about rebuilding these shocks, but none seem to mention the solution you've suggested. I'm trying to understand where to place the extra o-ring. Is it in the part of the shock being rebuilt in this clip:

This shows an o-ring, a spacer type piece, and another o-ting inside the base of the shock body. Are you advising that it be two o-rings at the very bottom, then the spacer and then another o-ring? I'd like to get this right, and clarify for others as well. Thanks again for all this great info, it's be invaluable!
 

jondilly1974

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I recently bought and received today two AR330451 shock part kits (https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330451) and some FT Green Slime (https://www.associatedelectrics.com...tails/1105-ASC1105-ft_green_slime_shock_lube/). There are a couple of YouTube videos about rebuilding these shocks, but none seem to mention the solution you've suggested. I'm trying to understand where to place the extra o-ring. Is it in the part of the shock being rebuilt in this clip:

This shows an o-ring, a spacer type piece, and another o-ting inside the base of the shock body. Are you advising that it be two o-rings at the very bottom, then the spacer and then another o-ring? I'd like to get this right, and clarify for others as well. Thanks again for all this great info, it's be invaluable!
Maybe @razorrc can chime in and help you out.
 

Camaroboy383

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if your adding orings, get rid of the plastic spacer and fill the cartridge with orings.. i beleive 5 total fit stacked.. cant remember for sure.. if adding a washer or two they go on top of the stack.. the washers must be large enough for the shaft to pass freely through them.. doesn't really matter where you put them.. your just looking to get more compression on the orings..

assemble the cartridge on the shaft, not seperate.. less chance of tearing an oring.. 👍 if you assemble the cartridge first you have to ease the machined edge of the shaft or it will cut the orings on the way through fairly easily..

good luck...✌
 

Krackar

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HSP Shocks -
A lot of people have used these shocks with great results. They are HSP Front 81003 and HSP Rear 81002 shocks. These will also require either the steel balls or nitro fuel line to take up the space in the upper mount. Remember that these are cheap Chinese shocks, they work okay but do not expect much for quality.

Last edited: Apr 9, 2020
What size are the steel balls required for these shocks?
 

Hoss81

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So I've been rocking the HSP shocks on my granite for a long time now. Well the other day after attempting a......let's call it aggressive set of backflips, I stripped one of the shock ends and lost the spring retainer.

Does anyone know if I can purchase the spring retainers anywhere or if there are others that will work? I still hate that Arrma doesn't make better shocks yet. I think I may go back to the factory shocks and try some tricks to keep them from leaking. The HSP shocks have worked good but they have to be shimmed and adjusted to make the right length, and I still don't like the way I have to attach the upper part of the shock to the shock tower. Does anyone have experience with the hot bodies shock bodies? Are they any good?
 

LDAGfoodaholic

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can i raise my shocks if i want to lift them or do i just get new shocks
I am looking at buying a costem bodie off ebay and i am planning on putting motercross stickers on it like odi,protaper,k&n,ect
 
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