3s vs 6s Battery Capacity

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I get about 16-17 minutes out of my hrb 5000mah 3S 50C packs, 18-19 minutes out of hobbystar 6200mah 3S 50C packs and so far 18-19 minutes out of my new CNHL 5000mah 65C 3S black series packs.

The CNHL's have only been run on my ERBEv2, but I get similar run times on it vs my outcast. Both trucks are running strapped trencher 3.8's, Max6 esc and BLX2050kv motors. The outcast is geared a hair faster than the ERBEv2, but not much.

I run mine to LVC. If I overheat, I regear until I can run to LVC how I run and where I run. Currently that's 13T pinion on my outcast and 18T/54T on my ERBEv2. I did try 14 and 19 respectively, but overheated both trucks 3-4 minutes before LVC running at the same spot the same way on the same day. I run at a grass bmx track a lot, so that's what I gear for. Since I run alone, there's little to no "stopping" and I"m constantly driving, not WOT, but rarely do I stop unless there's damage or I'm on my roof or I'm switching trucks.
 
I get about 16-17 minutes out of my hrb 5000mah 3S 50C packs, 18-19 minutes out of hobbystar 6200mah 3S 50C packs and so far 18-19 minutes out of my new CNHL 5000mah 65C 3S black series packs.

The CNHL's have only been run on my ERBEv2, but I get similar run times on it vs my outcast. Both trucks are running strapped trencher 3.8's, Max6 esc and BLX2050kv motors. The outcast is geared a hair faster than the ERBEv2, but not much.

I run mine to LVC. If I overheat, I regear until I can run to LVC how I run and where I run. Currently that's 13T pinion on my outcast and 18T/54T on my ERBEv2. I did try 14 and 19 respectively, but overheated both trucks 3-4 minutes before LVC running at the same spot the same way on the same day. I run at a grass bmx track a lot, so that's what I gear for. Since I run alone, there's little to no "stopping" and I"m constantly driving, not WOT, but rarely do I stop unless there's damage or I'm on my roof or I'm switching trucks.
Thanks for the info. What's your cell voltage at when you hit LVC?
 
If I hit LVC on the BLX ESC, go home and connect the charger, then the Cells will be at 3.7 to 3.8 Volts. For my Max8 (set to high LVC) it's something like 3.65V. I'm sure I would get lower readings if I tested the voltage right after removing the pack, but still. It might be a problem with some ESCs, but in general hitting LVC should not damage Lipos.

I agree that being able to drive for multiple minutes after turning the ESC back on is a little strange. But that also shouldn't work if the ESC is too hot, right?
This is how all three of my BLX systems are. I will run to LVC and after the battery recovers they are around 3.7-3.8 volts per cell. I have never checked the voltages immediately after it stops though. Works out awesome for storage charging. I know that it is LVC and not thermal because I have tried the batteries in another Arrma vehicle, that was sitting, and it runs for about a minute and then stops.

I honestly prefer a higher LVC and set all of my aftermarket ESCs to the highest they will go. I'm sure how much voltage sag you get also depends on how much you are constantly on the throttle. I tend to run mine like @olds97_lss and have very little, if any, stationary time. I average about 15-17 minutes with 4s and 6s 5000 mah packs. I don't have any larger packs as I prefer to keep my vehicles lighter and stop for battery changes more frequently.
 
Thanks for the info. What's your cell voltage at when you hit LVC?
I don't know anymore, haven't checked in a while. I want to say 3.4-3.6 within any given pack right when it happens and by the time I get home they recover some. Pretty sure I have both max6's set to medium for the LVC. I'll have to check again the next time I'm out.
 
I too just keep bashing until the car slows down and can't do full throttle anymore, when I plug it in it's usually around 3.3 to 3.4v, will that do long term damage? possibly, i'll tell you when it dies ?

Maybe because i don't do much full speed runs across the field, I get a good 30-40 minutes run time bashing around bmw tracks and skate parks.
 
I too just keep bashing until the car slows down and can't do full throttle anymore, when I plug it in it's usually around 3.3 to 3.4v, will that do long term damage? possibly, i'll tell you when it dies ?

Maybe because i don't do much full speed runs across the field, I get a good 30-40 minutes run time bashing around bmw tracks and skate parks.
At the skate park, I get around 25 minutes, but I can't help myself at the bmx track... takes quite a distance of run up to build speed without pulling a wheelie in my ERBEv2 and outcast. Usually a 75 yard run up so I can hit the jump with a little bit of throttle left for some air control. :)
 
I too just keep bashing until the car slows down and can't do full throttle anymore, when I plug it in it's usually around 3.3 to 3.4v, will that do long term damage? possibly, i'll tell you when it dies ?

Maybe because i don't do much full speed runs across the field, I get a good 30-40 minutes run time bashing around bmw tracks and skate parks.
No, 3.2v is safe. Below 3.0 is the danger zone. Lots of folks like a safety margin , though, so we say 3.2 or so. The others pick that up as the bottom limit, and add their own safety margin, etc, till we get people asking if it is safe to run a lipo below 4.0v ( yes, it happens)...
 
Couple of things
1. LVC cares less about the cell voltage, it is dialed into the pack voltage. Low =12.8V (4S) ; 19.2V (6S) which is equivalent to 3.2V per cell. Also the reason why you can't run a 5S cell (overlapping values).

2. Keep in mind that the runtime difference going from 3.2/cell to 3V per cell is approx. 15-30 seconds i.e. you gain nothing of any value.

3. If you have 1 weak cell, it will drain faster and you can easily be at 3V on that cell while the others are happily at 3.3V i.e. you are damaging your cells even more and LVC doesn't activate. That is why you should never run to LVC.

A good rule of thumb , you should not go below 3.5V (under load), you have about 1 more minute before you go below the 3.2V where all bets are off. Evaluate that one minute gained vs puffed cells, danger of over-stress and having to replace packs more frequently.
I typically run to 3.5V and can walk my Kraton back to the car at low seed and works like a charm. I despise carrying this sucker.
 
Hate to bust everyone's enthusiasm in this thread, it's all good info but won't get you a second longer runtime based on your problem.
You are not hitting LVC at 3.8V, you are simply overheating the ESC. If you can cycle power and run again you have a thermal problem.

Gear down or increase your cooling capacity on your ESC, drive slower and less acceleration.

If you are fairly new to this, check your bearings and anything potentially binding in your drive train, you should not have any grinding in the bearings.
That is the most common issue.

LVC hits around 3.3V and will damage your Lipo's i.e. you never want to hit LVC. LVC does not neceassrily allow for a reset or will quickly activate again, that is how you know if its a thermal issue or LVC.

Note: If your ESC overheats my guess is that you are getting critical on the motor. You never want to go beyond ~ 180F or you will destroy it rather quickly.

get yourself a cheap temp gun for checks in the field until you are comfortable.
@jkflow i just want to let you know you were right. I went from 15T to 13T pinion and put a heatsink and fan on my motor. The car shut down at ~3.4V per cell LVC. Top temp was 125F on the motor and about 115F on the heatsink. I don't know how long I ran it for but it was a lot longer than 15 min.
 
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