Kraton 4s going to buy what should I know?

[TN-RC]

my Bro wants to buy a 4s Kraton and the know it from a parts point but have never own one.
I know it has the plastic drive train, how much dose that brake
and are there any other problems I should know about?
I don't want to dump $200 into it just so I can run it because at the point I would just a 6s one.

 

[leroychurchill]

If you have not already seen it take a look at this video, this shows a lot of the issues you would have.

 

[TN-RC]

If you have not already seen it take a look at this video, this shows a lot of the issues you would have.

Yes, I have seen it. I will have him watch it.
so I would be looking at 400 + 300 in upgrades

 

[TN-RC]

What would I need to do to a 6s to get it to run well? @leroychurchill

 

[pug]

Build a 6s exb roller, just don‘t go full send with it and you’ll be fine. Wait for the 4s line refresh which is hopefully coming in Spring 2022.

 

[Surchaufeur]

The biggest problem is the motor mount bending and rear diff holder. If the clutch is set correctly you wont have axles problems.

 

[Soppy]

You could buy a V5 6s and run it on 4s. Then just install upgraded parts as they break.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

You could buy a V5 6s and run it on 4s. Then just install upgraded parts as they break.

This has to be the way forward. I don't think the 4s line will ever materialize. Just get a 6s rig and run it on 4s. More durable and they still go fantastic on 4s.

 

[JSmalls87]

I love my Kraton 4s, probably my favorite car. Great for smaller spaces, I find myself taking it out more than my Kraton 6s. But yes you'll definitely want to upgrade some things. I'd recommend:

Arrma CVD Sliders all the way around
Metal Diffs and input gears, along with composite cups
HR aluminum slipper pads
dBoots Backflip LPs

I haven't had to upgrade my motor mount, its been fine. Above will probably cost you around $250, but it will be real solid after that

 

[TN-RC]

I love my Kraton 4s, probably my favorite car. Great for smaller spaces, I find myself taking it out more than my Kraton 6s. But yes you'll definitely want to upgrade some things. I'd recommend:

Arrma CVD Sliders all the way around
Metal Diffs and input gears, along with composite cups
HR aluminum slipper pads
dBoots Backflip LPs

I haven't had to upgrade my motor mount, its been fine. Above will probably cost you around $250, but it will be real solid after that

What is 650 and the 6s one is 600. In your opinion is an upgraded 4s Kraton better than a 6s Kraton? Because you could just run the 6s to 4s and have all the steel stock.

 

[arrmedndangerous]

You could buy a V5 6s and run it on 4s. Then just install upgraded parts as they break.

How enjoyable is that going to be with the added weight? The big plus of the 3s line and by extension the similar 4s line is the light weight. My Talion on 4s wouldn't be nearly as fun as a 3s or 4s that weighs way less.

I was thinking the same thing until I got a 6s Talion and running it on anything other than 6s is pretty boring. If I want to run 3-4s, I will stick with the 3s line. But unless you wait for the new 4s line, building a 3s into a 4s can start pushing into the 6s price range, making the decision even more difficult. The upside being that if you have a beefcake 3s that can run 4s, it's going to be super tough, fast and cheaper to fix than the 6s (probably). You also need fewer (cheaper) batteries. The other option is buy a 3s, break it, replace with tougher parts as you go. You will be fixing anything you buy, so just upgrade as it breaks. Some things don't need to be upgraded, others do. Once they break, you know it's a weak point and can upgrade.

There's no perfect answer. But I do know that running a 6s on less than 6 is going to get old fast. Like one run fast. Also, unless he's going to use it for a week and put it away forever the first time it breaks, he'll need at least two anyway. Not being able to run while you fix your one RC isn't fun either, so even if it's a casual hobby you do once or twice a week, two is probably what he'll need.

For example, 3s Big Rock

$370 brand new (might be able to get cheaper)
$50-60 Tires usable but kinda suck, will need replacements anyway
$100+ 3s Lipos x4
Plus charger and other peripherals.

6s Kraton

$600 brand new
$80-100 for tires
$200+ 8x 3s or 4x 6s

Kind of a rough run down of the options. If he's got some patience, there's cheaper. I paid under $400 shipped for my Talion with a pair of 3s lipos and a Granite for about $160 that needed new tires and some bearings.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Great reply, should be pinned somewhere

 

[Jerry-rigged]

You could buy a V5 6s and run it on 4s. Then just install upgraded parts as they break.

the problem with this logic, you pretty much can't break the Kraton 6s on 4s...

My teen son ran a V1 Kraton on 4s for years, only broke a few shock rod ends, and wore out a few diffs (V1 diffs were weaker). Now we run 6s and break it more frequently...

 

[TheBadazz]

IMO, try to wait for the 4S line to return. Isure the would have some fixes forthe problems.

 

[JSmalls87]

What is 650 and the 6s one is 600. In your opinion is an upgraded 4s Kraton better than a 6s Kraton? Because you could just run the 6s to 4s and have all the steel stock.

Better? No. Different, yes. As another member pointed out, the car is much lighter. And overall just fives a different driving experience. I love having both, but to each their own!

 

[TN-RC]

How enjoyable is that going to be with the added weight? The big plus of the 3s line and by extension the similar 4s line is the light weight. My Talion on 4s wouldn't be nearly as fun as a 3s or 4s that weighs way less.

I was thinking the same thing until I got a 6s Talion and running it on anything other than 6s is pretty boring. If I want to run 3-4s, I will stick with the 3s line. But unless you wait for the new 4s line, building a 3s into a 4s can start pushing into the 6s price range, making the decision even more difficult. The upside being that if you have a beefcake 3s that can run 4s, it's going to be super tough, fast and cheaper to fix than the 6s (probably). You also need fewer (cheaper) batteries. The other option is buy a 3s, break it, replace with tougher parts as you go. You will be fixing anything you buy, so just upgrade as it breaks. Some things don't need to be upgraded, others do. Once they break, you know it's a weak point and can upgrade.

There's no perfect answer. But I do know that running a 6s on less than 6 is going to get old fast. Like one run fast. Also, unless he's going to use it for a week and put it away forever the first time it breaks, he'll need at least two anyway. Not being able to run while you fix your one RC isn't fun either, so even if it's a casual hobby you do once or twice a week, two is probably what he'll need.

For example, 3s Big Rock

$370 brand new (might be able to get cheaper)
$50-60 Tires usable but kinda suck, will need replacements anyway
$100+ 3s Lipos x4
Plus charger and other peripherals.

6s Kraton

$600 brand new
$80-100 for tires
$200+ 8x 3s or 4x 6s

Kind of a rough run down of the options. If he's got some patience, there's cheaper. I paid under $400 shipped for my Talion with a pair of 3s lipos and a Granite for about $160 that needed new tires and some bearings.

Thank you so much! you have helped a lot. one question why so many batteries?

Great reply, should be pinned somewhere

yes, for sure!

the problem with this logic, you pretty much can't break the Kraton 6s on 4s...

My teen son ran a V1 Kraton on 4s for years, only broke a few shock rod ends, and wore out a few diffs (V1 diffs were weaker). Now we run 6s and break it more frequently...

The Slash is almost indestructible on 2s even with my driving

IMO, try to wait for the 4S line to return. Isure the would have some fixes forthe problems.

That is what we might do.

Better? No. Different, yes. As another member pointed out, the car is much lighter. And overall just fives a different driving experience. I love having both, but to each their own!

It is like driving a 6s Maxx or a 6s X-Maxx (In Arrma wording 1/8 Kraton 8s vs 1/5 Kraton 8s) yes, I understand, people that have not been in the hobby long don't understand the driving experience like "isn't the 6s E-Maxx 2x crazier than the 3s Slash" a no! more grip with the E-Maxx more kick yes but not 2x funnier or faster or 2x the driving.

How enjoyable is that going to be with the added weight? The big plus of the 3s line and by extension the similar 4s line is the light weight. My Talion on 4s wouldn't be nearly as fun as a 3s or 4s that weighs way less.

I was thinking the same thing until I got a 6s Talion and running it on anything other than 6s is pretty boring. If I want to run 3-4s, I will stick with the 3s line. But unless you wait for the new 4s line, building a 3s into a 4s can start pushing into the 6s price range, making the decision even more difficult. The upside being that if you have a beefcake 3s that can run 4s, it's going to be super tough, fast and cheaper to fix than the 6s (probably). You also need fewer (cheaper) batteries. The other option is buy a 3s, break it, replace with tougher parts as you go. You will be fixing anything you buy, so just upgrade as it breaks. Some things don't need to be upgraded, others do. Once they break, you know it's a weak point and can upgrade.

There's no perfect answer. But I do know that running a 6s on less than 6 is going to get old fast. Like one run fast. Also, unless he's going to use it for a week and put it away forever the first time it breaks, he'll need at least two anyway. Not being able to run while you fix your one RC isn't fun either, so even if it's a casual hobby you do once or twice a week, two is probably what he'll need.

For example, 3s Big Rock

$370 brand new (might be able to get cheaper)
$50-60 Tires usable but kinda suck, will need replacements anyway
$100+ 3s Lipos x4
Plus charger and other peripherals.

6s Kraton

$600 brand new
$80-100 for tires
$200+ 8x 3s or 4x 6s

Kind of a rough run down of the options. If he's got some patience, there's cheaper. I paid under $400 shipped for my Talion with a pair of 3s lipos and a Granite for about $160 that needed new tires and some bearings.

I know this is the arrma form so we should not talk about Traxxas but in your opinon what about making a 4s Rustler it comes with the steel Diff's stock. it is $50 more.

 

[TN-RC]

How enjoyable is that going to be with the added weight? The big plus of the 3s line and by extension the similar 4s line is the light weight. My Talion on 4s wouldn't be nearly as fun as a 3s or 4s that weighs way less.

I was thinking the same thing until I got a 6s Talion and running it on anything other than 6s is pretty boring. If I want to run 3-4s, I will stick with the 3s line. But unless you wait for the new 4s line, building a 3s into a 4s can start pushing into the 6s price range, making the decision even more difficult. The upside being that if you have a beefcake 3s that can run 4s, it's going to be super tough, fast and cheaper to fix than the 6s (probably). You also need fewer (cheaper) batteries. The other option is buy a 3s, break it, replace with tougher parts as you go. You will be fixing anything you buy, so just upgrade as it breaks. Some things don't need to be upgraded, others do. Once they break, you know it's a weak point and can upgrade.

There's no perfect answer. But I do know that running a 6s on less than 6 is going to get old fast. Like one run fast. Also, unless he's going to use it for a week and put it away forever the first time it breaks, he'll need at least two anyway. Not being able to run while you fix your one RC isn't fun either, so even if it's a casual hobby you do once or twice a week, two is probably what he'll need.

For example, 3s Big Rock

$370 brand new (might be able to get cheaper)
$50-60 Tires usable but kinda suck, will need replacements anyway
$100+ 3s Lipos x4
Plus charger and other peripherals.

6s Kraton

$600 brand new
$80-100 for tires
$200+ 8x 3s or 4x 6s

Kind of a rough run down of the options. If he's got some patience, there's cheaper. I paid under $400 shipped for my Talion with a pair of 3s lipos and a Granite for about $160 that needed new tires and some bearings.

Be honest with me what is the advantaged with the Vorteks over the Rustler?

I love my Kraton 4s, probably my favorite car. Great for smaller spaces, I find myself taking it out more than my Kraton 6s. But yes you'll definitely want to upgrade some things. I'd recommend:

Arrma CVD Sliders all the way around
Metal Diffs and input gears, along with composite cups
HR aluminum slipper pads
dBoots Backflip LPs

I haven't had to upgrade my motor mount, its been fine. Above will probably cost you around $250, but it will be real solid after that

$380? that is what I found.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310870
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cnc-steel-gear-f-r-transmission-module-set/ARA311072.html
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA310948
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR550050

If you could find cheaper that would help a lot.

 

[JSmalls87]

Be honest with me what is the advantaged with the Vorteks over the Rustler?

$380? that is what I found.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310870
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cnc-steel-gear-f-r-transmission-module-set/ARA311072.html
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA310948
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR550050

If you could find cheaper that would help a lot.

2 of these for the sliders, you need the 4S versions.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...L_3nzTgWwkDm9bGCkpQ-YnS-jH38RnYwaAqqXEALw_wcB

For the diffs, buy all the parts separately, is a tad bit cheaper. If you wanted the metal yoke go with that one though.

Don't need a n new slipper as the K4S comes with the metal spur gear, only 4 of the HR pads
https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF15HN;c=1427

And yes those backflip LPs.

So right around $300. Honestly I put more into mine, got the HR yokes as well. There's just something about driving a 4S truck on 4S rather than a truck built for 6S on 4S which is going to feel underpowered everytime you drive it. K4S on 4S will be just as fun as the K6S on 6s, except smaller and a tad bit more nimble, suited better for smaller areas like your back yard. That's why I love it, along with the plastic chassis, I prefer to take that out bashing to playgrounds and such with my kids versus the bigger meaty 6S

 

[arrmedndangerous]

Thank you so much! you have helped a lot. one question why so many batteries?

No problem. I own most of the 3s line and a 6s so I thought I'd chime in.

I don't think that's a lot of batteries really but you don't have to buy that many. Especially all at once.

 

[TN-RC]

2 of these for the sliders, you need the 4S versions.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...L_3nzTgWwkDm9bGCkpQ-YnS-jH38RnYwaAqqXEALw_wcB

For the diffs, buy all the parts separately, is a tad bit cheaper. If you wanted the metal yoke go with that one though.
View attachment 190879

Don't need a n new slipper as the K4S comes with the metal spur gear, only 4 of the HR pads
https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF15HN;c=1427

And yes those backflip LPs.

So right around $300. Honestly I put more into mine, got the HR yokes as well. There's just something about driving a 4S truck on 4S rather than a truck built for 6S on 4S which is going to feel underpowered everytime you drive it. K4S on 4S will be just as fun as the K6S on 6s, except smaller and a tad bit more nimble, suited better for smaller areas like your back yard. That's why I love it, along with the plastic chassis, I prefer to take that out bashing to playgrounds and such with my kids versus the bigger meaty 6S

Thanks, I think we are going to wait for the spring to see if they update it.

No problem. I own most of the 3s line and a 6s so I thought I'd chime in.

I don't think that's a lot of batteries really but you don't have to buy that many. Especially all at once.

I was just thinking 4x batteries is a lot if you just owned one but if you have 5 trucks then 4 batteries are not many at all.