Outcast 4s Outcast build up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jonUF02

Active Member
Messages
671
Reaction score
474
Location
Orlando, FL
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Nero
  3. Outcast 6s
  4. Outcast 4s
I started with this truck brand new, which is rare for me. I had a couple of initial issues:

1) pinion grub came loose from the motor within 5 minutes - easy fix with some loctite

2) After a few runs, it was not popping wheelies like I would expect an Outcast to do. I upped the punch, then decided I needed to tighten the slipper. I made it pretty tight, then I started to pop rear axle joints. Finally I took the slipper apart to install a set of bearings and found that there were only 3 pads in it!! The most rear pad did not exist from factory. In the process, I had also popped the spring retainer from the front slipper plate - do not Gorilla tighten the screw, just do it snug.

Once the slipper was put back together with a new set of pads, plates, and bearings changed out everything seemed good at 1 turn out from snug on the screw. Then after a few runs it seemed loose again, so I tightened it to 1/2 and it seemed good for a while, then started to feel like it would not do a solid standing backflip again. I took some advice and tore down the slipper, cleaned all the parts with rubbing alcohol, then scuffed the composite pads with fine sandpaper and re-assembled to 1/2 turn out with loctite on the screw. After this the slipper issues were put to bed, and I haven't popped an axle since the first correct assembly.

Moving on to upgrades:

Straight out of the box I put in a Savox 1256tg servo that I kept from breaking and selling my old Outcast 6s build, and my usual Traxxas TSM receiver to link with my Traxxas TQi bluetooth link radio. I've been running this radio for years and I just like the feel of it. Anything else feels strange to me now. I also put on RPM A-arms that I ordered with the truck after watching some initial bash videos and I'm just generally a fan of RPM product.

Next came a set of Jim's bearings after a few runs. I finally got them all swapped out, filled the diffs with 7K oil and filled up the shocks. Everything seemed great! I really loved this truck. I thought it was great for much less than half of the investment I had in the 6s rig it would take abuse much better.

Breakages:
After sorting out the slipper / axle issue discussed above, the one thing I was consistently breaking is the rear lower shock end eyes. I've broken 3 of them, so I moved on to upgrading the shocks later. Other than that, I've only broken one rear shock tower at the screw mount point. I addressed the shock tower with aluminum reinforcement plate in the rear. Initially I bought the GPM version with the funky wings that have extra holes for mounting the shocks. I had to cut the wings off because they would bind with the top of the 4s shock. In all fairness, the reinforcement plates are sold as parts for the Granite 3s. Later I came across the Integy tower plates, and bought them front and rear.

Complaints:
I was loving this 4s Outcast, but my 2 major complaints were the use of a slipper vs. a center diff like the 6s and most 1/8 trucks, then the plastic chassis, but I have yet to break one. My chassis does have one crack at the rear of where the rear battery strap passes through it on the side, but it's holding in fine for now. I do have a spare chassis on standby because it only cost me $25. Front bumper is weak, as usual, I added T-bone front bumper.

To address these complaints, I started looking into the Proline Pro-MT 4x4. It has the same wheelbase as the O4S, but it's much narrower with the stock setup, more like a Granite. I decided to seek out one of these because I thought I could make a better 1/10 size Outcast 4s style truck. They have all the parts you would see in a normal 1/8 size RC, like a metal chassis plate, 3 diff setup, metal dogbone and CVD axles, etc. I thought all of this would be an improvement. I did find and buy one that had pretty much every upgrade available, proline and 3rd party, and was nicely built up. Long story short, it was just too heavy. It didn't have the agility of the "plastic" 4s Arrma, and it flew like a pig. Nice and flat, but barely getting off the ground on the same jumps that would air out the O4S. Even with a 1/8 size motor and ESC (running 4s) it was not nearly as quick as the 4s Arrma. I decided to abandon that dream and sell it, focusing all my RC funds to making the O4S the best it could be.

In the mean time, I had been focusing on suspension tuning of the O4S. I like my trucks to jump a certain way, and I play with springs and oils until they do. I ended up with the following spring and oil setup:

Front: Tekno TKR6040 springs with 45wt oil, one thick spacer clip, one medium. 70mm blue springs.

Rear: Tekno TKR6082 springs with 50wt oil, only one of the smallest spacer clips. Springs are 90mm, so 6mm longer than stock, so had to use less spacer than stock.


With the dedication to making the O4S the best it could be, I went on a shopping rampage including swapping out the stock shocks that really hadn't failed me other than the pesky rear lower eye breakages. After reading through the lengthy 3s/4s shock upgrade thread, I settled on my choice for best shock upgrade with the following:

HR 4s rear shock bodies
HR 4s front shock bodies
4mm shock rods from the Talion 6s:
Fronts - 4x61 shafts #AR330496 (not yet installed because I haven't broken the stock rod/ends in the front)
Rears - 4x71.5 shafts #AR330497
Tekno 1/8 shock ends with spring perches: TKR6140c
TLR244052 6.8mm shock pivot balls for the lower Tekno ends, because Tekno 6.8mm balls are aluminum and I found these TLR look like chrome steel, a much stronger material.

With this combination of parts, I was able to build bad ass shocks that are direct fit replacement with proper metal pivot balls that fit right and removable / replaceable rod ends. I'm really impressed with the quality of the HR shock bodies. Their stuff can be hit or miss, but these are a definite hit for $20/pair. I also added some shock socks to protect the rods and seals, since I won't have the stock dirt guards on the lower ends. I wanted to retain the stock internal piston so I would not have to go through suspension tuning again.

The shopping spree continued, ordering the Integy tower reinforcement plates in Red for front and rear, as well as a set of titanium turnbuckles. I did bend one turnbuckle end on the rear once, but bent it back into place. I just figured it was a good upgrade to maximize the strength of the truck. I found that TLR 22SCT has turnbuckle sizes similar to the Arrma 4s, and found a set of all 6 in Titanium for $22, about half the normal price for that set (TLR6056 is the set of 6, but pairs are also sold separately under different part numbers or steel "HD" versions). I was able to use all 6 in the set, with 2x 70mm filling the rear camber links, and the other 4 65mm replacing the front camber and steering links. It worked out perfectly in length, but I had to buy a new rod end kit because the threads were smaller than the original Arrma turnbuckles, despite both being listed as 4mm diameter. With a set of fresh plastic ends from Arrma, they threaded in nicely, plenty of bite on the new turnbuckles. I'm probably going to replace the turnbuckle pivot balls with the Associated balls that are chorme steel and identical in size to the stock Arrma balls, as seen on Facebook pics - part 813198. Currently I had installed a HR aluminum pivot ball kit, but they are pretty soft aluminum and quickly start to wear the finish off, and probably beyond that.

My shopping spree also included new motor bearings - Protek PTK100-27, new motor fan - Protek PTK-2111, painted the motor fan guard with red Krylon spray, Robinson Racing Extra hard pinion 13T to replace stock although it didn't show any problems - RRP8713, also a new rear wing, as my original folded in half and ripped the screws out from rolling over and bad landings

I have left the entire drive train completely stock! I'm having NO issues with any of the gears or driveshafts at this point.

While spending money on Ebay, I came across a new take-off Spektrum Firma 130 ESC for a good price that I bought on impulse. I popped that in and I can say it's close to a direct fit, but feels very much more substantial than the BLX120. I just had to move the mount holes back behind the original on the radio box cover because it is longer and was very tight against my servo. Drilled two holes through the radio box cover, just behind original ESC mount holes. I'm still looking for a permanent home for the power button, because the cord will not let it reach the stock button mount hole.

So to recap, here are all the parts I have changed out, and it's one hell of a beast now. I love it! This now my favorite RC truck I've ever had, including a few of the 6s Arrmas. I think I'm mainly doing this for my own documentation, so enjoy!

Outcast 4s RTR kit

RPM arms all around
Savox 1256tg servo
Traxxas TSM radio receiver
Jim's bearing kit
Protek motor bearings, "speed" metal shielded
Protek aluminum motor fan
RR hardened pinion 13T
HR pivot ball kit
HR steering assembly (robbed from a buy/sell flip deal)
HR shock bodies - with Talion 6s rods, Tekno ends, TLR lower pivot balls
Tekno springs, changed oil weights to 45/50
Filled diffs properly with 7k oil
TLR titanium turnbuckles
Integy shock tower braces F+R
T-bone Racing front bumper
Spektrum Firma 130 ESC
 

Attachments

  • 20200529_085015.jpg
    20200529_085015.jpg
    407.3 KB · Views: 114
This is some awesome info, I'm brand new to the hobby and looking for ideas on what I should do for shock upgrade. Thanks for the great write up
 
It's imo the best shock upgrade out there for the 4s line.. and the 3s line.. ?..

I'm glad I went through the efforts of researching the shaft's when I did.. it's honestly the most useful task I've indulged in for a long while that has been used by many.. I like that you found some tekno ends as an alternative to the 338 and 203.. how is the length comparison, thread top to eye center to the 203? I solely used them for the overall length of them on the 3s rigs.. although, even if they were a couple mm longer / shorter it surely wouldnt hurt..
 
It's imo the best shock upgrade out there for the 4s line.. and the 3s line.. ?..

I'm glad I went through the efforts of researching the shaft's when I did.. it's honestly the most useful task I've indulged in for a long while that has been used by many.. I like that you found some tekno ends as an alternative to the 338 and 203.. how is the length comparison, thread top to eye center to the 203? I solely used them for the overall length of them on the 3s rigs.. although, even if they were a couple mm longer / shorter it surely wouldnt hurt..


Thank you so much!
I ordered this identical setup above for my front this evening... The rear HR shock bodies are out of stock at the moment so I'll be stuck with factory shocks in the rear for a bit. This was literally the only way I could get my Outcast 4S back in action (two bent shocks) anytime soon as all factory front shock parts are out of stock around the Web untill end of July, and all the above parts were available on the ebay, it seemed like a no brainier. Any thoughts on the matchup of the factory rear shocks with the above HR front shock setup once I get it built & installed? I suppose I might need to add a spacer to the rear or pull one?..I really have no idea yet..I need to see them on there, then I'll have an idea, it's my first car.
 
Last edited:
Nice build and great description. I agree with you the nice light plastic of the outcast 4s is very under rated but I find it being a great Lil truck. I have been thinking about changing the new spektrum esc over the stock like you have done but maybe I'll just wait till it dies. Does all the tekno spring work??
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top