Outcast 4s overheat issue

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Slicktmi

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Arrma RC's
Hello so i have a issue with my new outcast have about 15 batteries through it im running 4s on my outcast with stock gearing and it gets up to 200 sometimes with mild bashing i checked for resistance and gear mesh all the necessities and everything checks out the esc never goes past 110 i vented my tires so there's no excess weight from dirt ect in there the battery is a 45c 4500 mah run time is around 15min so I'm trying to figure out why? i even switched to the 16t pinion thinking it was under geared and it got hotter so what do you think? Also ambient temp is in the 50 and under i took off the mud guard's made no difference the lipo temp after a run is about 120ish and also since im here what motor upgrade do you guys recommend for the outcast that runs good and cool on 4s that can be geared high im not looking for bandaid cooling fans just because that's kinda ignoring the real problem.
 
For that setup I would stick with 12t. have you been running it in heavy amounts of water?
 
Are you letting it cool between batteries giving it a chance to breath?
And yeah within the first pack it will hit 170 by the end let it cool for a bit then the next pack gets to 200 no matter how long it cools.
 
12t should be perfectly fine on 4S without any extra added weight or binding. 200 just seems a little warm to me.
 
I just noticed you said you're running 45C at 4500 mAh. I do believe the minimum for that car is 50c at 5000mah.
 
I just noticed you said you're running 45C at 4500 mAh. I do believe the minimum for that car is 50c at 5000mah.
On the paper included it says 35c 5000mah min so i figured it would be enough since the c discharge rating was there since the mah is mostly for run time but i guess it's a possibility
 
I just noticed you said you're running 45C at 4500 mAh. I do believe the minimum for that car is 50c at 5000mah.
And you would think since the speed controller is staying cool that the battery is putting out enough amps but i could be wrong
 
Check your bearings. Does it roll easy like always, when you have it on its lid turn one rear wheel while holding the other, this should transfer the energy to the front. Do this on all wheels. Maybe a bearing or diff issue with 15 packs thru it. Could be a little drag in there that is barely noticed which gets worse as you run.
 
Check your bearings. Does it roll easy like always, when you have it on its lid turn one rear wheel while holding the other, this should transfer the energy to the front. Do this on all wheels. Maybe a bearing or diff issue with 15 packs thru it. Could be a little drag in there that is barely noticed which gets worse as you run.
Ok i just checked what you said and all turn freely i even pulled the motor to check for resistance and everything is smooth
 
And you would think since the speed controller is staying cool that the battery is putting out enough amps but i could be wrong
To be honest out of all the years that I've been running RC I've never run a battery that's lower than the suggested ratings. So I've never experienced the issue if you were to do so. It just caught my eye in your original post and I do know that the rating is 50c at 5000mah.
 
You might want to search this forum for the best batteries to use on your truck. Trust me the answers are on here somewhere
 
Batters are all a gamble. The more I play around with lipos the more I think c rating is bs. I have two 35c 3s and a hobbystar 30c 4s. batteries that have out lasted all others. 75c 4s hobbystar, puff, 50c 6$ hobbystar puff, Vant 50c 6s on its way out, another 30c 4s hobbystar perfect no problems. So out of my battery collection the erb 35c 3s and Hobbystar 30c 4s are the only batteries I have never had issue. They are around 5 months old.

Sorry, anyway, maybe try another battery as to which one well they all may suck. Vant at least has a warranty and they give you 50% off a new one after the warranty is over. All lipos come with one gattantee, they will fail, some sooner than others and it doesn’t seem to matter what brand or c rating.
 
To be honest out of all the years that I've been running RC I've never run a battery that's lower than the suggested ratings. So I've never experienced the issue if you were to do so. It just caught my eye in your original post and I do know that the rating is 50c at 5000mah.

On the Arrma website and in the manual for the BLX185 systems it says 35c at 5000mah. Which equates to a 175 amp rating. The 4500mah 45c batteries should have a 202.5 amp rating, so they should be adequate per Arrma's recommendations. I normally always get 50c minimum myself as the prices aren't usually that different.
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I also don't think that the batteries would cause the motor to overheat. I would lead to believe that either you have something binding in the driveline, the bearing in the motor isn't spinning freely or the motor is in reverse, but I am thinking that you would notice that you have double the power in reverse than you do while driving forward.
 
Batters are all a gamble. The more I play around with lipos the more I think c rating is bs. I have two 35c 3s and a hobbystar 30c 4s. batteries that have out lasted all others. 75c 4s hobbystar, puff, 50c 6$ hobbystar puff, Vant 50c 6s on its way out, another 30c 4s hobbystar perfect no problems. So out of my battery collection the erb 35c 3s and Hobbystar 30c 4s are the only batteries I have never had issue. They are around 5 months old.

Sorry, anyway, maybe try another battery as to which one well they all may suck. Vant at least has a warranty and they give you 50% off a new one after the warranty is over. All lipos come with one gattantee, they will fail, some sooner than others and it doesn’t seem to matter what brand or c rating.
That's what I've always said about lipos that's why i always go cheap because I've had expensive lipos and cheap lipos they all react the same with time and use I've honestly had better luck with floureon lipos than some of the expensive ones but that's just my experience but i have 4 4s lipos and all of them give the same results so i doubt it's a battery problem maybe if i go 6s so there's less current going through might help but i like the light 4s packs
 
On the Arrma website and in the manual for the BLX185 systems it says 35c at 5000mah. Which equates to a 175 amp rating. The 4500mah 45c batteries should have a 202.5 amp rating, so they should be adequate per Arrma's recommendations. I normally always get 50c minimum myself as the prices aren't usually that different.
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I also don't think that the batteries would cause the motor to overheat. I would lead to believe that either you have something binding in the driveline, the bearing in the motor isn't spinning freely or the motor is in reverse, but I am thinking that you would notice that you have double the power in reverse than you do while driving forward.
Yeah see i knew it was 35c 5000mah but like i said if the battery is underrated for the rig usually the esc suffers heat but it's only the motor in my case esc today topped out at 95 degrees Fahrenheit during my bash motor was at 188 after running it might be binding somewhere but like i said it rotates freely from my tests but I'll dig deeper
 
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