Kraton 5 minutes!!! šŸ¤¬

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One by one I have went back to Stock standoffs as they snapped. With my exposed Front shock tower of my TLRT Typhon, I was eating them left and right. Of course user error. But at least with the stocker standoffs I replace a screw and I'm rolling again. I can do this out while bashing. The EXB standoffs don't come cheap. And they are crappy brittle metal at that.
The stockers will usually just bend or snap at the screw. Just need to replace the screw. How cheap and simple.
Oh, if I replace them it's going to be with M2C. I just ordered 2 more packs of diff output cups. I already have M2C front drive shafts I haven't installed yet.
I have almost every product they sell for this thing. I should have got these a long time ago. Fortunately I still have a Arrma aluminum diff cup to install in the front anyways. The other two diffs have them already. The center diff still has stock diff cups but there isn't much flex there with the M2C chassis and all of the braces so I don't expect those to go any time soon but I'll have M2C cups on had if they do...
No fiddlesticking around anymore! šŸ˜’
I'm a little broke right now for this hobby so I am replacing 1 thing at a time. All I have left to get from M2C is the shock standoffs, center drive shafts and front and rear diff housing input cups... I litterlly have everything else.
 
I only use M2C Fr and Rr diff output cups. A big difference. Some say since they are more hardened that they crack. I never noticed this.

>>> I also use some grease on the diff cups before installing them into the diffs. metal on metal Wear over time makes them rock and get sloppy. How Tekno Diffs are built. With grease on the output cup's shafts before inserting them.
I only run the Arrma metal diffs at the center of most of my 6s rigs.. It gets the hottest. Melted them before. I have been good with the plastic ones Fr and Rr.
 
Sorry just had too.

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