5s LiPo battery recommendations?

[K-BASH]

I realize that 90+% of the battery brands come from the same manufacture, hence, why my Hobbystar battery blew to pieces in a rig with a high powered system. I mostly run SMC lipos, but they don't make a 5s battery. That's why I asked for recommendations.

Danny will make you 5s pack,but only srds.buddy of mine had him make 5s srd packs...if your good at sodoring just buy 6s pack an remove 1 cell....I remove bad cells off packs is they are on outside.outside ones are easy an usely the ones that get damaged

 

[Garcbomber]

I realize that 90+% of the battery brands come from the same manufacture, hence, why my Hobbystar battery blew to pieces in a rig with a high powered system. I mostly run SMC lipos, but they don't make a 5s battery. That's why I asked for recommendations.

That little, light powered car doesn’t draw enough continuous amps to hurt a HS/Zeee 19Volt Lipo unless it had direct physical cell damage. If you think that’s still feasible I won’t disagree further.

 

[K-BASH]

Unless your geared for over 70mph,over like 3000kv,or have a heavy rig then high performance packs really aren't needed..

 

[obessedwithrc]

I only speedrun so I only try the most powerful..all comes down to what will fit..these are the best 3 5s options for power..the 4000mah 70c are about 55ish ea an I run 2 in parrallel for 8000mah 5s or these azure 6500mah are 100$ ea...haven't tried the cnhl 5200mah 5s packs yet,but those are good cells also..65ish$ ea...

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Looks like the Azure pack is too wide/ tall for the Teknos. Looks even too wide for the Off-Road Arrma 6s line, too! Unfortunately, I can't stack two CNHL 4000mah 5s batteries... pack height is limited to 45mm in the ET48 2.0. Anything taller and the body interferes. The body is atypical for a 1/8 Truggy. It actually leaves the front shock tower exposed.

Talion truggy body vs. Tekno trugggy body:

Maybe I should look into running a different body!

I actually have some front shock tower protection on mine:

 

[obessedwithrc]

Unless your geared for over 70mph,over like 3000kv,or have a heavy rig then high performance packs really aren't needed..

I think the "heavy rig" part may be part of the issue. The truck is full M2C. I think I might change the body so I can run a taller battery from a better brand — OR — I might just bite the bullet and go up to 6s and adjust my throttle EPA/ EXP to take the power down a bit.

 

[obessedwithrc]

That little, light powered car doesn’t draw enough continuous amps to hurt a HS/Zeee 19Volt Lipo unless it had direct physical cell damage. If you think that’s still feasible I won’t disagree further.

Definitely not disagreeing with you.I'm by no means an expert and I love to learn. No ego here. I'm always open to suggestions!

ET48 2.0 weighs 10.8 lbs (w/ out battery). With the 5s Hobbystar battery, it's 12.2 lbs. Tekin T8 GEN3 ESC is capable of 300 max amp draw. Tekin T8 Truggy Motor is prob capable of 210 amps, max.

Theoretically, if the ESC/ motor combo can pull let's say "200 amps max," can a 5200mah 13C battery provide enough amperage without becoming damaged from "overdraw?"

Figure, (5200mah x 13C)/ 1000 = 67.6 max amp rating. The Hobbystar battery probably isn't far off that 13C. Even if it was 30C, that would still be less than the amount of amps the ESC/ motor would ask for.

What do you think, @K-BASH? Did I do that math correctly?

 

[K-BASH]

Definitely not disagreeing with you.I'm by no means an expert and I love to learn. No ego here. I'm always open to suggestions!

ET48 2.0 weighs 10.8 lbs (w/ out battery). With the 5s Hobbystar battery, it's 12.2 lbs. Tekin T8 GEN3 ESC is capable of 300 max amp draw. Tekin T8 Truggy Motor is prob capable of 210 amps, max.

Theoretically, if the ESC/ motor combo can pull let's say "200 amps max," can a 5200mah 13C battery provide enough amperage without becoming damaged from "overdraw?"

Figure, (5200mah x 13C)/ 1000 = 67.6 max amp rating. The Hobbystar battery probably isn't far off that 13C. Even if it was 30C, that would still be less than the amount of amps the ESC/ motor would ask for.

What do you think, @K-BASH? Did I do that math correctly?

You can only really go off logs,without logs you can off of temps..packs will puff an get hot if they are getting overworked..x ratings are never accurate so unless your drag or speedrunning amps shouldn't be very high for very long..
Logs tell all

 

[dure16]

Did I do that math correctly?

Sure, but the unfortunate part of this hobby is that none of that math matters. Not one single number you used can be relied on as factual since there’s no standardization in the advertised measurements and specifications.

As @K-BASH pointed out, post-run data logs are the only way to find reliable numbers. Until you are ready to go down that path, you can either make guesses or ask questions here to lean on the collective experience of the forum.

Lastly, I’d echo comments by @K-BASH and @Garcbomber that your use case is far from extreme, and that nearly any battery will be able to keep up just fine.

 

[obessedwithrc]

Makes sense. Most (about 1/2) of my rigs have ESCs that can log data. It sounds like I have some learning to do!