Kraton 6s Diff... Bullitproofed! 😎

[Jeremy15086]

This is the best diff I have done so far. It is definitly the strongest and smoothest one I've built. I am very confident it will be virtually unbreakable. It's a 6s EXB diff for the rear end of my Krajave. The build...
1. Arrma aluminum case
2. M2C outdrive cups
3. Piano wire custom outdrive cup pins
4. Shimmed perfectly
5. Fast Eddie's bearings
6. Heavy duty washer to eliminate LSD and support the spider gear.

I have another to do eventually and may attempt to make a video for YouTube.

 

[Woodentop]

I am about to build mine. Just waiting for the diff case. Tell me more about number 3

 

[Jeremy15086]

Sure will... I'll try to give details tomorrow.

 

[HZRDOS]

Do you have something to support the tab on the spider gear?

 

[SrC]

Nice when you can confidently build a diff. After about 60+ diff builds, it all clicks.
I cut Drill blanks or bits to make my Sun gear pins.
Seems anything is better than the Stocker pins.
Surely make a video.

 

[HZRDOS]

See this thread for how I change from LSD to open in the 29mm diffs. The key I feel is the shims behind the sun gears. A large shim/washer will not support the tabs and they are the fail point.

I do all the other items you mention, but use cobalt HSS drill bit steel to make the pins.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/building-a-stronger-29mm-diff.43971/
Over a year in on (2) rigs, have not killed a diff yet. Well over 50 packs in each, plenty of standing backflips, etc.

 

[Jeremy15086]

See this thread for how I change from LSD to open in the 29mm diffs. The key I feel is the shims behind the sun gears. A large shim/washer will not support the tabs and they are the fail point.

I do all the other items you mention, but use cobalt HSS drill bit steel to make the pins.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/building-a-stronger-29mm-diff.43971/
Over a year in on (2) rigs, have not killed a diff yet. Well over 50 packs in each, plenty of standing backflips, etc.

I did it exactly the way you do it. That's where I got the idea!

 

[olds97_lss]

Wish I had read that thread before I got my kraton exb... I found out by messing with things myself. I started with the open diff shim kit. Fried the rear diff within a couple bash sessions. Redid it thinking it was a fluke, but used drill stock instead for the pins, made it 2 more bash sessions... then got an alloy diff cup, tried again... died again. The last attempt was m2c outdrives, drill stock for pins, 2 round plates and 1 star plate as well as the alloy cup. So far, so good. Didn't think washers or thin shims would hold up to the round plates grinding on them which is why I just went with the single star plate in the cup/gear.

I have them oriented like this:

The center and front still have open diffs with the fronts having drill stock, alloy cup and M2C output cups, but that was due having to pull the diff due to the messed up cups after the bones popped out a few times. The center is still holding up. I have the plates and shims (and another alloy cup) to have them all the same... just haven't messed with them because it's been doing fine. Maybe I'll dig into it over the winter months and order up some of those shims to use vs the star plates as well.

I run a max6/4985 1650kv with 20T and backflip MT's.

 

[HZRDOS]

Wish I had read that thread before I got my kraton exb... I found out by messing with things myself. I started with the open diff shim kit. Fried the rear diff within a couple bash sessions. Redid it thinking it was a fluke, but used drill stock instead for the pins, made it 2 more bash sessions... then got an alloy diff cup, tried again... died again. The last attempt was m2c outdrives, drill stock for pins, 2 round plates and 1 star plate as well as the alloy cup. So far, so good. Didn't think washers or thin shims would hold up to the round plates grinding on them which is why I just went with the single star plate in the cup/gear.

I have them oriented like this:

The center and front still have open diffs with the fronts having drill stock, alloy cup and M2C output cups, but that was due having to pull the diff due to the messed up cups after the bones popped out a few times. The center is still holding up. I have the plates and shims (and another alloy cup) to have them all the same... just haven't messed with them because it's been doing fine. Maybe I'll dig into it over the winter months and order up some of those shims to use vs the star plates as well.

I run a max6/4985 1650kv with 20T and backflip MT's.

The round plates just spin with the shims and gears. Same as a single large shim...but they help support the sun gear tabs. The star plates are the only stationary parts, and create the friction to help lock the diff a little under power when the gears are spinning and the sun gears are pushed out more creating force against the plates. This also creates heat, which is why I don't use the star plates.

 

[olds97_lss]

The round plates just spin with the shims and gears. Same as a single large shim...but they help support the sun gear tabs. The star plates are the only stationary parts, and create the friction to help lock the diff a little under power when the gears are spinning and the sun gears are pushed out more creating force against the plates. This also creates heat, which is why I don't use the star plates.

Yeah, I didn't think of it that way. Doesn't matter much as I didn't have shims the right OD to use anyway at the time.

 

[Jeremy15086]

And now my FRONT Arrma output cups failed!
Those things are JUNK!!!

 

[parcou]

And now my FRONT Arrma output cups failed!
Those things are JUNK!!! View attachment 258656

Agree...

I could see wear with my K6E, and gone to the M2C version with over 20+ runs on them with zero wear on them.