6s Diff differences...??

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It takes practice to be correct all the time. It can be done... have faith. I'm one example. I am always correct. :ROFLMAO:
 
Like I said 1 of the causes. I was more talking about guys like @Notorious J and @olds97_lss. Under stress the bulkhead halves can actually separate, I've seen guys who had the screws holding the halves together back out.

All of my "issues" came from something else failing.
1st set the bearings let go on the pinion.
2nd set the motor locked up mid backflip.
1 front diff because the diff cup slid back on the pinion shaft :mad:
I now have the Aluminum HR gear box in the rear of my Noto, yet the rear spur issue hasn't gone away. I joke about my driving, but I consider myself an experienced operator now, and still, even during a light bash last week, three or four teeth got mangled. The issue isn't the gear box, it's the mesh between the pinion and spur. @Camaroboy383 has explained well, a pinion shim that I haven't had a chance to do yet. For whatever reason, the pinion gear and spur lose enough contact during even medium levels of driving, that a quick snap of the trigger will likely end with damage. My front doesn't have nearly as many issues, and is still using the stock gear box. I'll give my opinion once the pinion shim is complete, but I still stand by my opinion that the spur material is too fragile for this 8th scale set up.
 
I run all stock gearboxes in my trucks. I've also upped the power in most of them and haven't had a diff issue in over a year. It's odd that @Notorious J keeps chewing up diffs. I don't shim the pinion either. My Talion isn't shimmed at all besides what came from the factory ?‍♂️
 
I run all stock gearboxes in my trucks. I've also upped the power in most of them and haven't had a diff issue in over a year. It's odd that @Notorious J keeps chewing up diffs. I don't shim the pinion either. My Talion isn't shimmed at all besides what came from the factory ?‍♂️
I have a feeling that my chassis might be tweaked, and that it's possible the gear box isn't sitting square when i tighten it down. It happens way to often now for it not to be a combination of things, but that's an almost impossible task to figure it out without starting over from scratch. I went out yesterday and jumped it about 20 times, and everything was fine. Maybe I just have really bad luck. The only other thing that might work for me, is taking the used Noto M2C chassis and installing it on the Typhon 6s, since I don't plan on sending either of my Typhons. Grab a new chassis from M2C and start over on the Noto. Gotta get to the bottom of the problem, cause my spur budget is getting thin.
 
I have a feeling that my chassis might be tweaked, and that it's possible the gear box isn't sitting square when i tighten it down. It happens way to often now for it not to be a combination of things, but that's an almost impossible task to figure it out without starting over from scratch. I went out yesterday and jumped it about 20 times, and everything was fine. Maybe I just have really bad luck. The only other thing that might work for me, is taking the used Noto M2C chassis and installing it on the Typhon 6s, since I don't plan on sending either of my Typhons. Grab a new chassis from M2C and start over on the Noto. Gotta get to the bottom of the problem, cause my spur budget is getting thin.
Strip the front and rear off the Noto and lay it on something flat. I use my table saw table or my quartz countertops. You will see if it's tweaked.
 
Strip the front and rear off the Noto and lay it on something flat. I use my table saw table or my quartz countertops. You will see if it's tweaked.
Will do, probably over the Christmas break. Good chance to check all the bearings and get things cleaned up too. Been one hell of a year with the Notorious. It owes me nothing, and I'm totally satisfied that I got every penny's worth of smiles during the time I've owned it.
 
Do you see an issue with putting a typhon diff in a talion? Why do they make some diffs straight and some angled?
Do a quick search here on the forum. They explain why straight cut will be too weak in a basher. It makes a lot of sense once you read it. Contact patch difference was one of the biggest reasons, but it's also a different tooth count so center dif and pinion would have to change as well.
 
I was surprised by how loud my Typhon 6S was. I truggified it and enjoy driving it, but find myself driving my Kraton 4S a lot more lately (with RPM arms). One of these days I'm going to order some Outcast/Kraton diffs from a kit breaker and try spiral instead.
 
I shimmed the little gear in the housing on both my Arrma after the first couple runs as I could clearly see wear on just the outer tips meaning under load they were separating.
 
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