6s Kraton Mild Basher Build (budget)

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Hey Guys!
For the full video click here on my build

Here are the details though

kraton V4 6s
Power hobby 5000mah 100c 6s pack
Tactic radio
RPM arms all around and rear mudgaurds
Voltage hobbies servo mount
Savox 0231mg tall
HR front and rear chassis braces
M2C rear chassis brace support mount
2 C clips added to servo saver to tighten it
20t pinion from talion
All diffs shimmed
20k rear
200k center
50k front
Gorrilla taped body
Deanadized towers, braces and chassis
Powerhobby motor fan and heat sink
Team brute esc fan
Front and rear tbone thrasher bumpers
And had these silly leds that I throw inside when driving at night ?
And that’s it!
 

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Very Nice rig. Great Video, BTW.
I also de-anodized the chassis shock towers and steering Top plate and T2T oe brace. Also deanod. my HR F/R braces. Looks great I agree. I like the bare Alu. Look also. I find it easier to work on, because there is better contrast to the chassis when wrenching components, if that makes sense.
My Hacks include SS springs within the front and rear diff input cups. Keeps the F/R dog bones seated and secure within the center diff drive cups. I see less pin wear and it is much more quieter. Sounds like a different rig. Drivetrain hums instead of rattles.
I installed an extra St Top plate onto the rear of the stock chassis to control rear chassis twist.
I removed most of the axel hex slop at the wheels using Tekno Diff shims. The outer bearings are the same diameter as the outboard diff bearings. Placed 1-2 shims as needed on all four.
I drilled a 4mm hole into the lower pin area of the rear hubs and placed a setscrew into it. The rear hubs slop is gone now.
Im using 2 20mm fans on my motor. The larger fans always break. I haven't eaten a fan yet. Temps are good. The wire end of the motor is the hottest part, IMO, so I placed 1 20mm fan onto the back end attached to a 20mm heatsink glued to motor using a thermaly conductive silic. glue. Placed screens on all three fans.
Nice job.:)
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Dude, nice rig! Those mods you mentioned about the springs in between the shafts is GENIUS! and the hub shims. Def gonna do that too. Do you have a link to those springs or did you get them at the hardware store?
 
I found them in Home depot hardware section. A big assortment of springs. I found the correct diameter and just cut the spring. The spring, when cut down should be short enough to allow the dog bone to compress the spring all the way into the cup. Stainless Steel springs are best for obvious reasons. This spring hack idea actually comes from my older Associated rigs. Some guys use fuel hose tubing. I don't recommend that though.
The set screw idea in the rear hubs is just a copy from my Tekno MT. Tekno actually uses 2 setcrews on each rear Hub at the lower pins.
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Ty.
I also suggest using a combination of shim/spacer at the Fr. upper arms hinge pin. The space between where the upper pin is exposed on the upper RPM arm. I believe you need 5mm. This will prevent upper arm flex to a large extent.
I removed slop on the St links and rear camber rod ends. I popped the oe balls out and placed yellow Teflon tape within the rod ends and popped the balls back in. Reset my alignment and all is good. Arrma has too much slop out of the box. Imo. Racers do this with worn rod ends at the track. In a pinch. I find it works and is inexpensive. They should be snug at first. Then they will break-in and be great for a while. T tape is cheap. The white is ok. But the thicker yellow t tape fits the bill better. Small strips of t tape overlapped and hanging out the rod end before you pop the balls back in. Trial and error to accomodate the slop as needed.
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