Outcast 6S Outcast Repair Inquiry

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adidas303

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I'm trying to change out the outdrive cup on the front diff area. I see I have to take AR320195 and ARA320500 off and out of the way to access it. Would anyone have any suggestions in regards of getting a screw out that is just sitting there spinning? It's loose from the loctite, but the screw won't come out of the designated post it sits in. Just curious if anyone had any tips on getting this D*** thing out!!

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So I can fit a tiny flathead between 320500 and 320195, just can't seem to get enough pressure on top or bottom of those parts for the edges on the screw to grab and start actually threading itself out!! hmmm. This one is starting to hit a nerve with me. I'm about to the point of shoving the flat head driver in between the screw head and plastic wall surrounding it and just stripping it out like a dang seesaw! over it!
 
That's the screw going into the steering post, right? You can try tightening the screw from the bottom up really snug to try and hold the post, then backing the top screw out.

I hate dealing with those screws on any truck with that type of setup where the posts don't key into a hex somewhere.
 
So I can fit a tiny flathead between 320500 and 320195, just can't seem to get enough pressure on top or bottom of those parts for the edges on the screw to grab and start actually threading itself out!! hmmm. This one is starting to hit a nerve with me. I'm about to the point of shoving the flat head driver in between the screw head and plastic wall surrounding it and just stripping it out like a dang seesaw! over it!
I hate that little area in general on my senton. Never fun when I’m in there.
 
I'm trying to change out the outdrive cup on the front diff area. I see I have to take AR320195 and ARA320500 off and out of the way to access it. Would anyone have any suggestions in regards of getting a screw out that is just sitting there spinning? It's loose from the loctite, but the screw won't come out of the designated post it sits in. Just curious if anyone had any tips on getting this D*** thing out!!

View attachment 53815


Honestly it's easier to pull the whole assembly off the chassis, 7 screws total and the whole front clip pulls off.. ( for future reference)...

now that the upper screw is loose and the post is spinning, take 2 drivers, one from top, one on the bottom, re tighten the post into the chassis... once it bites down and tightens snugly remove the under side driver and tighten the upper plate screw as tight as you can without stripping the hex..

Now that you have started over revert back to the start of my reply... but heat those 2 screws that retain the bellcrank posts with a soldering iron and just wheel them out.. again it's much easier to remove the whole front clip to change the cup..

especially because you should be slightly pre loading the bearings when you install the cup, thumb and pointer finger, one on the pinion face, one on the cup face, slight pressure and tighten grub screw.. any slop in the pinion will relate to gear issues with a quickness...
 
Honestly it's easier to pull the whole assembly off the chassis, 7 screws total and the whole front clip pulls off.. ( for future reference)...

now that the upper screw is loose and the post is spinning, take 2 drivers, one from top, one on the bottom, re tighten the post into the chassis... once it bites down and tightens snugly remove the under side driver and tighten the upper plate screw as tight as you can without stripping the hex..

Now that you have started over revert back to the start of my reply... but heat those 2 screws that retain the bellcrank posts with a soldering iron and just wheel them out.. again it's much easier to remove the whole front clip to change the cup..

especially because you should be slightly pre loading the bearings when you install the cup, thumb and pointer finger, one on the pinion face, one on the cup face, slight pressure and tighten grub screw.. any slop in the pinion will relate to gear issues with a quickness...
So that second screw is loose, not held by loctite any more, it really seems like it is being stuck by the plastic rim around the screw head...
I can literally just spin it with the hex driver in place. Literally the screw won't grab and use the threads to start the upward motion. ?

I'll try putting all the screws back and try your method
 
So that second screw is loose, not held by loctite any more, it really seems like it is being stuck by the plastic rim around the screw head...
I can literally just spin it with the hex driver in place. Literally the screw won't grab and use the threads to start the upward motion. ?

I'll try putting all the screws back and try your method
@Camaroboy383 is right. I remember now? ?
 
If that does not work I use a longer screw, thread a nut on to it screw the bolt into the post a goodly amount, now tighten the nut down onto the chassis while holding the long screw in place with your driver. Hold on to the nut with a wrench and loosen the screw on the top plate.
 
Tried the methods that have been suggested so far, nothing worked for me. It's probably going to come down to having to break the plastic around it somehow and replacing that whole piece. I can't fit needle nose pliers around the screw head to try and pull it out from the top, nor able to get anything just underneath the screw head to apply pressure upwards as I try to unscrew it out.... The screw just continues to sit there spinning either way. Doesn't even tighten anymore either.... Just a string of super bad luck so far with this Outcast...

Thank you all very much for your suggestions! I guess this one wins this round and has to be taken apart in a very bad way!! I suppose I won't even be upset having to buy more replacement parts for what I bend or break getting that thing out... Thanks again all!!
 
That sucks, that hole must be stripped.. or the screw is... at this point I would just drill the head of the screw off and remove everything from the top as you started to do... then deal with the screw portion once everything is out of the way...
If you can even drill it that is without it biting the bit and spinning
 
Tried the methods that have been suggested so far, nothing worked for me. It's probably going to come down to having to break the plastic around it somehow and replacing that whole piece. I can't fit needle nose pliers around the screw head to try and pull it out from the top, nor able to get anything just underneath the screw head to apply pressure upwards as I try to unscrew it out.... The screw just continues to sit there spinning either way. Doesn't even tighten anymore either.... Just a string of super bad luck so far with this Outcast...

Thank you all very much for your suggestions! I guess this one wins this round and has to be taken apart in a very bad way!! I suppose I won't even be upset having to buy more replacement parts for what I bend or break getting that thing out... Thanks again all!!
This seems wrong. Unscrew the ones at the bottom in the chassis. Take the whole front end out. Use vice grips and clamp on to the middle of the posts (nothing will be affected if you grab the middle where it indents). Heat the screws a bit and crank them out. I thought the first time this happened to me that I was doomed too. Shouldn't be that difficult once you get the front assembly out. Good opportunity to check other steering components at the same time like those to large hexes in the Ackerman plate.
 
You sure it’s not just the post spinning under there. (maybe I’m just confused again...)There’s space so when that screw is tight everything still moves free in the steering. At this point maybe just remove the front end and get at it. If you do get the steering apart, change the brass bushings to bearings. Most bearing kits have those supplied.
 
You sure it’s not just the post spinning under there. (maybe I’m just confused again...)There’s space so when that screw is tight everything still moves free in the steering. At this point maybe just remove the front end and get at it. If you do get the steering apart, change the brass bushings to bearings. Most bearing kits have those supplied.
? I had to use pliers to hold the post on my kraton
 
? I had to use pliers to hold the post on my kraton
I didn't notice the post spinning as I'm trying to back the screw out, could be a possibility as well! I'll also check that when I get home after work.

Can you post a photo of your actual screw from the top/side? Curious if we aren't imagining something right.
I'll take a pic of it when I get home this evening.
 
I didn't notice the post spinning as I'm trying to back the screw out, could be a possibility as well! I'll also check that when I get home after work.


I'll take a pic of it when I get home this evening.
Yeah completely remember now.... I was like wtf is going on here???
 
Yeah completely remember now.... I was like wtf is going on here???
If the screw on the bottom of that post is set and tightened up as best it can, will that post still move? Cause if so, then I think that may be my problem. If that screw should set that post, then it's something else...
 
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