Typhon 6s Typhon motor issue

[Tivogreg]

After getting my rear diff fixed 15 minutes later I have a new issue with the motor.

Any ideas what caused the magnets to get chewed up?

 

[2fast4u]

The most likely culprit is overheating. It's possible a bad bearing let the rotor get into the stator also. Or excessive dirt/sand/stone in the motor could be an issue. The Kevlar wrap is there to help secure the magnets and if it gets torn up they will come loose easier. If it locked up on the fly you need to check your F/R diff gears. They may be damaged.

 

[Tivogreg]

Looking closer I do see the top bearing has pretty much disintegrated and most likely semi-seized which probably caused the heat. This things really do fall apart quickly.

 

[2fast4u]

Yes, the stock bearings (in most if not all motors) leave something to be desired. They are not sealed which let's dirt and moisture get into them and they fail fairly quickly. There may be a few out there that are an exception.

 

[slick2500]

Yes, the stock bearings (in most if not all motors) leave something to be desired. They are not sealed which let's dirt and moisture get into them and they fail fairly quickly. There may be a few out there that are an exception.

Yup, this is seriously the biggest problem I have had with all of my brushless motors is the bearings. Rtr brushed motors aren't too bad because they have bushings, but the brushed motors that have bearings in them also suffer from this issue and it is worse because most of the cans aren't sealed and are completely open, I've actually killed a freshly rebuilt brushed motor in 1 pack from the dust getting in it

 

[Tivogreg]

What’s the recommendation? Do I buy a new motor and get better bearings? Can I rebuild this one somehow?

Thanks

 

[Jimbobjr]

I don't think it would be worth rebuilding. Try Horizon warranty first. If that's a no go Id just buy another blx motor from Jennysrc or ebay. I think they are $42 or so.

 

[SrC]

High heat delaminates the armature wrapping. Heat will destroy the bearings also, especially if not well lubed. The industry standard for these motors is designed around 212 deg F maximum.
The laminations fail above those sustained temps. Try to keep motor temps below 170F. 150F is my target based on gearing, ambient temps, and terrain. I also notice that when my motors run too hot, braking fade occurs because the magnets are heat saturated. Brakes become much weaker. It becomes apparent to me as I drive. That's when I bring it in to check motor temps.

What’s the recommendation? Do I buy a new motor and get better bearings? Can I rebuild this one somehow?

Thanks

You cant source a new Arm for the RTR motor. Get a new motor and if you are motivated enough get a set of hybrid sealed bearings ( ABEC 3 minimum or even ABEC 5's best ) to swap out the OE bearings. I believe Jims Bearings has them. I noticed Castle motors use quality bearings like these as standard. The Hybrid Seal bearings have a seal on one side and metal shield (unsealed side) on the other. Install the bearing with the seal facing out. Dirt will stay out. I would lube the new bearings well before installing.( lube the metal shield inner side) Then just watch your temps a little better.

 

[Tivogreg]

You mean watch my temps at all.

Thanks for the advice I’ll see what I can do.

 

[slick2500]

You could always play it safe and do the finger test, if it burns your finger in 5 seconds or less you are too hot, 145* will burn your finger in about 5 seconds.