Typhon 6S Typhon rear CVD mod...

[Walküre]

I read in some past thread here about a mod that utilizes the Typhon front CVD shaft in the rear instead of the dog bones. It requires the use of Team Durango diff outdrives. I messaged JvG here who made the post for more info. Thanks JvG for the help and for sharing your knowledge.

The TD pot drives are deeper aallowing for the extra depth needed when the A-arms articulate through the bumps.
The TD diff is nearly 5mm less in width at the dogbone slots. I tore down the rear diff and dumped some 30K diff oil in it. Reinstalled with a shim and swapped out the rear shafts for the CVD’s. I’m liking it. Took the buggy out for a rip and won’t look back.

The problem is, I bought up the last 2 TD diffs in the USA that I can find at the moment so hopefully they last. Good for you EU Arrmites who would like to give this a go, it looks like a couple sets of outdrives still exist in Germany.

 

[RAH]

Hi and thanks for these pictures. I have recently tried to complete this mod but failed. I can confirm that the current TD 310480 out drives will not work in a current Typhon 6S. The hole in the TD out drive that accepts the pin in the inner diff does not match the standard arrma part so will not accept the pin when o-ring and shim are in place.

 

[SrC]

Many have had success with simply running the stocker fronts at the rear. Stub axles and all. I did this with my K6s and Mojo. Just make sure your Droop setting is good. This also tends to run quieter than the Rr dog bones.
I don't see why it can't work with the Typhon.
FWIW, I use M2c Output cups throughout.

 

[fredw90]

Front cvds in the rear worked just fine on my typhon. Did not work at all on the Kraton.

 

[slick2500]

Front cvds in the rear worked just fine on my typhon. Did not work at all on the Kraton.

Did you remove the rubber inserts in the diff cups? I didn't when I first got my Kraton and couldn't figure out why the cvds wouldn't fit.

 

[fredw90]

Did you remove the rubber inserts in the diff cups? I didn't when I first got my Kraton and couldn't figure out why the cvds wouldn't fit.

I sure did. In both. Typhon is just fine the Kraton binds up upon compression.

 

[slick2500]

I sure did. In both. Typhon is just fine the Kraton binds up upon compression.

My Fireteam almost does, if I had the droop any lower they would bind for sure.

 

[fredw90]

Droop is fine. It’s when the suspension compresses the push into the drive cups.

 

[Vulthraxis]

Droop is fine. It’s when the suspension compresses the push into the drive cups.

yeah racing makes a set for rear https://www.yeahracing.com/yeah-rac...on-notorious-outcast-talion-amkt-002-00118693

Side not they have center universal driveshafts from spring steel for 6s kraton as well. So your car could be 100% universals if you wanted to.

Ships to US https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...757746!sea!US!0!AB&curPageLogUid=HSARoh4s6c55

 

[RAH]

just did another test with 124mm front CVD assembly on the V5 and it just cannot fit with standard outdrives. Its about 4mm too long for the standard setup. I don't appear to have any rubber inserts in my diff cups. Will be interested to see if the whole TD diff fits - should have it in a couple of days.

 

[RAH]

Full TD210042 diff swap and all works nicely!

 

[fredw90]

Photos of diffs?

 

[Yonic]

I ran rear cvd's in my Typhon for years, it bind ever so slightly, which can be solved with the Tuned TLR suspension holders, use the pils to move the arm further away from the diff to fix the clearance.

This trick can be used on the Talion as well.. havnt tried on a Kraton, but if its as @RAH says 4mm.. then it would not help here

 

[RAH]

Photos of diffs?

see attached

 

[Dan B.]

Every Typhon I own is running the stock front CVD’s at all four corners with no other mods required. It’s a total plug and play, is a much better setup than the stock rear dog bones, and in no way requires reinventing the wheel or the addition of any other parts.

 

[SrC]

Front cvds in the rear worked just fine on my typhon. Did not work at all on the Kraton.

Perfect on my 6s Kraton.
I run all stock parts, hubs and all FWIW.
Running other related Upgrade parts with the CVD's may be the issue for some? IDK. But I do recommend M2C diff outdrive cups.
Every 6s line Arrma has symetrical Fr And Rear Axel spacing. They are equal.
Make sure to Not use the EXB rubber Output cup diff drive "spacer" when using CVD's at the rear.
Also, Changing the Wheelbase at the rear hubs can help, if you are not comfortable with the fit. I personally always extend mine to max wheelbase. 3mm give or take can make a difference sometimes.
Adequate shock Droop setting is also key. Neglect this and you will fail. So many do.

 

[fredw90]

The output cups on your stock diff look different than mine. Mine don’t have that groove near the base like yours.

 

[SrC]

Every Typhon I own is running the stock front CVD’s at all four corners with no other mods required. It’s a total plug and play, is a much better setup than the stock rear dog bones, and in no way requires reinventing the wheel or the addition of any other parts.

+1.
For so many it does work, plug and play...... yet for some not???
Maybe 6s line Production tolerances are so way off like that. So it doesn't always work for everyone?
I'm missing something here.
But like I said above, if you are using HR or other Upgrade parts, like brand parts, rear hubs/uprights for instance, and doing some crazy axle shimming etc, maybe this will cause CVD fitment issues????
Again, it "should" work.
And if anything simply adjusting Droop and Wheel base, should dial in the fit if anything.
I bet Yeah Racing did shorten their rear CVD slightly. By a hair if that.

 

[RAH]

I am on stock hubs (no other related upgrades either) and I couldn't install std front CVDs in mine with stock diff and outdrives - even with it hard up against cup I couldn't screw in the the hub to the adjustable top link. TD outdrives didn't swap into stock diff - as you can see the extra lip on the Arrma diff meant the outdrive hole was too low to accept the internal pin. But TD diff complete (with all metal Arrma insides swapped as the TD kit came with some plastic in it) works perfectly. Correct spacing of drive shaft in cup - full range of movement with droop set etc