Infraction 8S Drag Infraction Build

[K-BASH]

“4.31$” is that something you made up bruh?

I mean I run these cvds on all 4 corners.

 

[jondilly1974]

I mean I run these cvds on all 4 corners.

Where do you find it for $4.31?

 

[K-BASH]

Where do you find it for $4.31?

That's the k-bash price.sponsered by gpm..
Not good enough for a BOCA sponsorship..

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Love the senton6 option,not alot of us running it.ive been running gpm senton6 cvds on all 4.31$ compared to 50$ for stock.much better than stock.thicker an don't wear as fast.

Interesting is that for a basher or a speed run car?
I assumed the GPM units are junk like so many other Chinese aftermarket axles are... (example RC AWD limitless dog bones)

 

[jondilly1974]

Interesting is that for a basher or a speed run car?
I assumed the GPM units are junk like so many other Chinese aftermarket axles are... (example RC AWD limitless dog bones)

Hey those RCAWD shafts make OK ends for a CF sleeve (maybe?)! Time will tell but I had been running them in my Drag Infraction and they didn’t seem to have issues. But it stayed under 100mph too, so maybe they would have gone at some point in a speed runner.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Hey those RCAWD shafts make OK ends for a CF sleeve (maybe?)! Time will tell but I had been running them in my Drag Infraction and they didn’t seem to have issues. But it stayed under 100mph too, so maybe they would have gone at some point in a speed runner.

I think drag applications put pretty hard loads on them. That is good to know.
I had bought some rear lower a-arms. Now I just need to find some fronts.

 

[jondilly1974]

I think drag applications put pretty hard loads on them. That is good to know.
I had bought some rear lower a-arms. Now I just need to find some fronts.

That was my thought as well. If it can survive a TP 56 series 0-40 launch then it should hold for a speed run. Also failure at 40mph is much easier to deal with than 140mph. I will give these a go this weekend at SF and report back.

Just for my future knowledge, do you know the cure time for the L638 in this application? I’m assuming 4-5 days should be plenty.

 

[K-BASH]

Interesting is that for a basher or a speed run car?
I assumed the GPM units are junk like so many other Chinese aftermarket axles are... (example RC AWD limitless dog bones)

Most all gpm is CN junk,run these on speedrun car,even run the front gpm center shaft in xlwb speed car with less vibration or flex.stock center shaft would contact servo mount at high rpms.gpm is thicker an doesn't contact mount at all.i pay alot of attention to center shafts..someone needs to make a 2.5-2.6 diff
To slow C-shaft rpms down even more.SPEED-DIFFS.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

That was my thought as well. If it can survive a TP 56 series 0-40 launch then it should hold for a speed run. Also failure at 40mph is much easier to deal with than 140mph. I will give these a go this weekend at SF and report back.

Just for my future knowledge, do you know the cure time for the L638 in this application? I’m assuming 4-5 days should be plenty.

Supposedly 24 hrs.
glad to see some good feedback on these shafts.

Most all gpm is CN junk,run these on speedrun car,even run the front gpm center shaft in xlwb speed car with less vibration or flex.stock center shaft would contact servo mount at high rpms.gpm is thicker an doesn't contact mount at all.i pay alot of attention to center shafts..someone needs to make a 2.5-2.6 diff
To slow C-shaft rpms down even more.SPEED-DIFFS.

Agreed or a belt drive conversion.
I know a guy who engineered one, but I have a feeling he may never produce it...
I may have to do it if he never does.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I think drag applications put pretty hard loads on them. That is good to know.
I had bought some rear lower a-arms. Now I just need to find some fronts.

ordered 2 pairs of front lower and upper arms on eBay.
Should be good to go.

Prepping for a winter project if I can find the $$$

 

[jondilly1974]

 

[jondilly1974]

Made a new set. Taking apart the old set I found uncured L638, so I am going to assume one of two things, it won’t cure in an anaerobic situation, or it needs a much longer cure time. This time I used a little longer CF segment to both insert the metal ends in slightly further as well as take some play out of the shafts in the cups.

I also found that my rear diff input D-Safe cup (EXB GP4 diff) was slightly wobbly. I replaced it with a Mugen cup and it appears to be spinning true now. That might have caused the CF split. I was more careful inserting the metal ends into the CF tube to ensure they were as straight as possible going in that it didn’t damage the tube on the way in.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Made a new set. Taking apart the old set I found uncured L638, so I am going to assume one of two things, it won’t cure in an anaerobic situation, or it needs a much longer cure time. This time I used a little longer CF segment to both insert the metal ends in slightly further as well as take some play out of the shafts in the cups.

I also found that my rear diff input D-Safe cup (EXB GP4 diff) was slightly wobbly. I replaced it with a Mugen cup and it appears to be spinning true now. That might have caused the CF split. I was more careful inserting the metal ends into the CF tube to ensure they were as straight as possible going in that it didn’t damage the tube on the way in.

View attachment 174094

638 is made for anaerobic scenarios specifically cylindrical fittings with a gap around 0.25mm

I wonder if it wont work well with carbon fiber? It is more specifically "labeled" for metals. I doubt I could get Raz to confirm what he uses on his shafts, but I'll shoot him a message and see what he says.....

I have read 24 hrs cure time almost everywhere, but on one forum a guys said its more like 50% in 24 hrs and 1 week for full cure. Hard to say if that is true as I have not seen that mentioned in other places...

 

[jondilly1974]

638 is made for anaerobic scenarios specifically cylindrical fittings with a gap around 0.25mm

I wonder if it wont work well with carbon fiber? It is more specifically "labeled" for metals. I doubt I could get Raz to confirm what he uses on his shafts, but I'll shoot him a message and see what he says.....

I have read 24 hrs cure time almost everywhere, but on one forum a guys said its more like 50% in 24 hrs and 1 week for full cure. Hard to say if that is true as I have not seen that mentioned in other places...

It seemed to cure in the tight spots but was still very fluid on the ends of the metal shafts where no contact with another surface was made. I made sure to add plenty of excess on the metal shafts as I was sliding them in and simply wiped off the excess at the end. I wanted to ensure as much adhesive as possible without a mess. We will see how they turn out. For what it’s worth, it did take a lot of effort to remove the ends that didn’t break. But a vice and a pair of channel locks was capable of breaking the bond cleanly.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I wonder then if you might need to fill the void with foam or something to remove the oxygen air gap.
Just brainstorming....

 

[jondilly1974]

I wonder then if you might need to fill the void with foam or something to remove the oxygen air gap.
Just brainstorming....

Also, I put them upright in a vice and sealed the ends of the CF tube with BSI-2000 to ensure they don’t wick up moisture later. I will have to let one end cure before flipping them over and do the other end.

 

[Liquid SSSnake]

Made a new set. Taking apart the old set I found uncured L638, so I am going to assume one of two things, it won’t cure in an anaerobic situation, or it needs a much longer cure time. This time I used a little longer CF segment to both insert the metal ends in slightly further as well as take some play out of the shafts in the cups.

I also found that my rear diff input D-Safe cup (EXB GP4 diff) was slightly wobbly. I replaced it with a Mugen cup and it appears to be spinning true now. That might have caused the CF split. I was more careful inserting the metal ends into the CF tube to ensure they were as straight as possible going in that it didn’t damage the tube on the way in.

View attachment 174094

I have the 5x8 tubes coming, my project has been on the back burner for now. For the shaft ends I was thinking about cutting splines and maybe a bevel for more epoxy to bite into. I'm glad you're experimenting first

Did you use MBX8 cups? I often wanted to try HR input cups to see if the SafeD cups were the problem.


When I made my CF center brace I let one end cure standing up overnight so the epoxy wouldn't creep away, in theory. Then I did the other end the next day and let it sit vertically.

 

[jondilly1974]

I have the 5x8 tubes coming, my project has been on the back burner for now. For the shaft ends I was thinking about cutting splines and maybe a bevel for more epoxy to bite into. I'm glad you're experimenting first

Did you use MBX8 cups? I often wanted to try HR input cups to see if the SafeD cups were the problem.


When I made my CF center brace I let one end cure standing up overnight so the epoxy wouldn't creep away, in theory. Then I did the other end the next day and let it sit vertically.

I will admit my methods to this point are 100% speculative and experimental. I had originally thought I would need to pin the shafts, but after assurances from others here I decided to avoid that path for now. I was also assured that L638 was good enough for 1:1 drivelines, so it would assuredly work for an RC as well. I’m buying it so far. Time will tell.

Here is a pic of the cups I used. They are from eBay.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Raz is not use Loctite 638 but is using some multi step process that he cannot divulge.

Looking at specs on 638 it appears you should not move it after about 5 mins. Probably best to set one side, then wait 2 days and set the other side.
If 638 does not work I don't know what would, none of their other products come close to the strength. (except 635 which is nearly the same stuff but has a longer working time.)

 

[Edough13]

I will admit my methods to this point are 100% speculative and experimental. I had originally thought I would need to pin the shafts, but after assurances from others here I decided to avoid that path for now. I was also assured that L638 was good enough for 1:1 drivelines, so it would assuredly work for an RC as well. I’m buying it so far. Time will tell.

Here is a pic of the cups I used. They are from eBay.

View attachment 174158

Man wish I'd have known you needed or were looking at these as I bought this spool long ago and it's junk so have it just sitting would have been happy to send ya the cups. Let me know if you want a couple more as I said I have them just sitting not being used