8s rigs 10mm shock alternative?

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If you swap out the front shock tower to the outcast tower, I know the rovan fronts will fit. (I can't comment on fitment when leaving stock front tower installed) The rovan rears fit on the rear but you will want to add 8-10mm tubing spacers inside on the shock shaft to prevent over extending the arms and causing the driveshafts to bind up. Keep in mind it will sit up really tall compared to the stock ride height, and maybe even be overly tall in the rear. Personally if i was going to stay with the base kraton look, and was going to put on rovan shocks, i would change the front shock tower and get 4 rovan fronts. The rears are 3/4 inch longer than the rovan fronts, and the rovan fronts are 1/2 longer than the kraton rear (frt&rr on outcast) That puts the rovan rears a whole inch longer than the stock kraton rears. I could probably mock up the setup you are asking and take a pic, but it will be with the taller shock tower in the front (sorry i don't want to swap out my shock tower to test it :cool: ) give me some time. maybe in the next day or so. what tires are you running?
I am working on my 8s build and will be running Proline Trencher bead lock.
Here's the first run video of the Kraton MT with Rovan rear shocks x4 that I just got done editing. I have ran it a couple times since, but still need to edit those. Enjoy!

How are you liking this setup with Rovan rear shocks all around?
 
I am working on my 8s build and will be running Proline Trencher bead lock.

How are you liking this setup with Rovan rear shocks all around?
Yes, but i do need to do some more tuning. it's a little bouncy at slower speeds over rough terrain.
 
I just grabbed another set of tires (with the 6-spoke rim) & a set of rear shocks to play around with since I don't feel like bothering the X-Maxx setup. I'll put them on the Kraton MT & put the fronts on the EXB. Looks like they only had a few sets of tires since they're gone again.
 
I have been doing more testing on the kraton mt build with the rovan rear 10mm shocks. Its working pretty good, but plan to play around with the oil weights some more, and eventually the pistons. A couple things to note about these shocks that i wanted to share.

  1. the brass insert that holds the pivot ball on the ends tend to come loose and if you don't keep an eye on it, and continue to run with them popped out it will begin to wear out the shock end opening. I have recently tried putting a dab of super glue on the insert after reinstalling. I will know more about the success of this over the next month or so.
  2. THIS IS A BIG ONE--- they do not currently sell replacement parts for these shocks. You have to buy a whole new pre assembled shock. I guy i know on IG actually broke one of the rod ends and cannot get a replacement. I am hoping that they do eventually start selling replacements like they do for their other shocks. I believe these are fairly new shocks (they use them on the new xlt450) so i would assume they will start to carry replacements to support that platform.
I have been trying to get caught up on my video edits. Here's one of me running the Kraton MT build with the rovan shocks. check it out if your interested

 
  1. the brass insert that holds the pivot ball on the ends tend to come loose and if you don't keep an eye on it, and continue to run with them popped out it will begin to wear out the shock end opening. I have recently tried putting a dab of super glue on the insert after reinstalling. I will know more about the success of this over the next month or so.
These are made like normal helm jointed rod end, the brass piece is designed to be pressed in or out making it serviceable. But it's aluminum instead of steel so I can see how it would break if you get crazy with it. Rather than superglue, red loctite would be a better choice over the long run.

These shocks need a pretty wide-mouth bottle to setup :ROFLMAO:

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These are made like normal helm jointed rod end, the brass piece is designed to be pressed in or out making it serviceable. But it's aluminum instead of steel so I can see how it would break if you get crazy with it. Rather than superglue, red loctite would be a better choice over the long run.

These shocks need a pretty wide-mouth bottle to setup :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 134725
Thanks! yea i realized they are supposed to come out for servicing but they were popping out during every run. seemed excessive. i will try red loctite next time thx! You got any creative thoughts for alternative replacement ends since stock replacements are not available?
 
Thanks! yea i realized they are supposed to come out for servicing but they were popping out during every run. seemed excessive. i will try red loctite next time thx! You got any creative thoughts for alternative replacement ends since stock replacements are not available?
The rod end is a M8 so it's huge to a say the least. The M8 steel helm is REALLY huge so it won't fit the arm. I seen more breaks on the 6-8mm shafts since they have the same rod end & most were on stuffed pitiful jumps. As for the 10mm, I can see the rod end breaking before the shaft since the shaft metal is so thick, but what kind of vertical cliff did he screw up a landing on to break it :ROFLMAO: You cracked an arm & bent a CVD before the shock even knew what happened so I don't see it as much of an issue. I know people want to send these things like 6s trucks & expect a upgrade fest to do the trick but these rigs are still 30lbs & no amount of upgrading will change the forces that exerts on it's parts.
 
Seriously, if Arrma did this setup from the get-go . . . ppls would of still found BS to complain about. BUT, this setup really is awesome. It shows the full potential of this 8S platform & then some.

 
The rod end is a M8 so it's huge to a say the least. The M8 steel helm is REALLY huge so it won't fit the arm. I seen more breaks on the 6-8mm shafts since they have the same rod end & most were on stuffed pitiful jumps. As for the 10mm, I can see the rod end breaking before the shaft since the shaft metal is so thick, but what kind of vertical cliff did he screw up a landing on to break it :ROFLMAO: You cracked an arm & bent a CVD before the shock even knew what happened so I don't see it as much of an issue. I know people want to send these things like 6s trucks & expect a upgrade fest to do the trick but these rigs are still 30lbs & no amount of upgrading will change the forces that exerts on it's parts.
Yea I’m not sure what landing caused it, he just said it was a “
Seriously, if Arrma did this setup from the get-go . . . ppls would of still found BS to complain about. BUT, this setup really is awesome. It shows the full potential of this 8S platform & then some.

btw my buddy on IG wasn’t complaining that it broke, was just hoping to be able to get a replacement part. I did get a response from Rovan and they said they were hoping to be able to offer parts in the future but don’t have them as of now. I will watch your update vid later, in a hotel traveling and it won’t load for some reason. From the looks of the thumbnail it seems like you are running the 4 rear Rovan shocks. Interested to see what you are doing to keep the rear end from overextending and binding the driveshafts when in the air or doing flips. I am currently using tubing on the shaft internally but I believe it’s restricting flow of the piston holes slightly. I am thinking of switching to adjustable limiting straps.
 
Interested to see what you are doing to keep the rear end from overextending and binding the driveshafts when in the air or doing flips. I am currently using tubing on the shaft internally but I believe it’s restricting flow of the piston holes slightly. I am thinking of switching to adjustable limiting straps.
I was going to use tubing as well but the only kind I had was to thick & covered the piston holes so I found these: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-Bearings-Wrapped-Bushings/dp/B07JM1GFCR They fit like a glove & are more than thin enough.

I'm also working on the tire. Ballooning is great & all but that craziness can't be too good . . . The shoegoo actually worked but I might wrap it with some tape just to be sure. I don't want the foam grinding away against the stuff.

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20210327_200014.jpg
 
It feels great but no method I've tried in the past have lasted more than a few minutes before disaster so I'm not expecting much, plus this is the tire from the broken rim that was replaced so I'm not wrecking either set by experimenting with it.

20210327_205516.jpg
20210327_205914.jpg
 
I was going to use tubing as well but the only kind I had was to thick & covered the piston holes so I found these: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-Bearings-Wrapped-Bushings/dp/B07JM1GFCR They fit like a glove & are more than thin enough.

I'm also working on the tire. Ballooning is great & all but that craziness can't be too good . . . The shoegoo actually worked but I might wrap it with some tape just to be sure. I don't want the foam grinding away against the stuff.

View attachment 135195
View attachment 135196
Nice find on the sleeve, but I’m confused. It says 8mm ID and 10mm OD. I thought the shocks were 10mm. How do these even fit? Is it possible you posted a different link? I’m not at home right now or I would put my calipers on the shaft.
 
Nice find on the sleeve, but I’m confused. It says 8mm ID and 10mm OD. I thought the shocks were 10mm. How do these even fit? Is it possible you posted a different link? I’m not at home right now or I would put my calipers on the shaft.
Yeah, that's definitely the wrong link. My bushings are silver colored. Looks like amazon screwed up the link in my orders. It took a while to find the right one. I had to look in my e-mail: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Oilless-Bearing-Sleeves-Composite/dp/B00K85G150
 
Thanks a bunch!! Did you think 10mm was the perfect amount of spacer? Are you getting any binding or wear marks near the end of the driveshaft near the drive cups?
Thanks!
I can't really tell. My shafts are bent right at the cups so there are no marks. They been like that since the first time I ran it. Arrma really should of beefed up the CVDs. I know they will bind with the shocks if they are thickened up but that's something I can live them. No other 1/5 have pitiful junk like that. They're suppose to be 6mm but they come in around 5.5 to 5.7 depending on where you measure them. Most other 1/5s are in the 7-8mm range with 9mm upgrades.
 
You can also use the 10mm front shocks on the stock K8/EXB even with the shorter front tower if you use the bushings to internally limit the shaft. one 10mm bushing was enough for me. Again, here is the bushing I used: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Oilless-Bearing-Sleeves-Composite/dp/B00K85G150

20210402_010927.jpg


I also seen many screw up this setup by getting front AND rears thinking that they were made for the truck or some other nonsense. So I will say that these shocks were made specifically for a 40lb Rovan MT & not a 30lb Kraton. You need to ONLY buy 4 FRONTS OR 4 REARS - DO NOT BUY 2 OF EACH. The springs that come with the stocks WILL NOT work on the Arrma. You need to re-use the Arrma springs or use the GPM gold or silver springs. You also need to refill the shocks with 5000 to 6000cst silicone fluid depending on your setup & climate. You DO NOT need to limit the shaft on the 4 FRONTS if you use the Taller Towers on the front & rear. The 4 REARS WILL ONLY work with the Taller Towers & you WILL have to limit the REAR shafts. I also only used 1 bushing per shaft.

I also put 2 of the 1/4" SS washers, from Menards on both sides of the lower eyelet & 1 washer on both sides of the upper eyelet. That should keep the insert from pushing out & still allow the shock some wiggle room.
 
You can also use the 10mm front shocks on the stock K8/EXB even with the shorter front tower if you use the bushings to internally limit the shaft. one 10mm bushing was enough for me. Again, here is the bushing I used: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Oilless-Bearing-Sleeves-Composite/dp/B00K85G150

View attachment 136573

I also seen many screw up this setup by getting front AND rears thinking that they were made for the truck or some other nonsense. So I will say that these shocks were made specifically for a 40lb Rovan MT & not a 30lb Kraton. You need to ONLY buy 4 FRONTS OR 4 REARS - DO NOT BUY 2 OF EACH. The springs that come with the stocks WILL NOT work on the Arrma. You need to re-use the Arrma springs or use the GPM gold or silver springs. You also need to refill the shocks with 5000 to 6000cst silicone fluid depending on your setup & climate. You DO NOT need to limit the shaft on the 4 FRONTS if you use the Taller Towers on the front & rear. The 4 REARS WILL ONLY work with the Taller Towers & you WILL have to limit the REAR shafts. I also only used 1 bushing per shaft.

I also put 2 of the 1/4" SS washers, from Menards on both sides of the lower eyelet & 1 washer on both sides of the upper eyelet. That should keep the insert from pushing out & still allow the shock some wiggle room.
Thanks for the good breakdown! One variant is that I am actually using the Rovan rear springs with the all rear setup. The springs on the rear shocks are much stiffer than the ones that come with the front shocks(which are way to soft to use). I’m still playing with my setup but as of right now the rear Rovan springs seem to be working. That may change once I order and install the spacers listed in your post. Right now I’m using silicone tubing spacers.
 
You can also use the 10mm front shocks on the stock K8/EXB even with the shorter front tower if you use the bushings to internally limit the shaft. one 10mm bushing was enough for me. Again, here is the bushing I used: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Oilless-Bearing-Sleeves-Composite/dp/B00K85G150

View attachment 136573

I also seen many screw up this setup by getting front AND rears thinking that they were made for the truck or some other nonsense. So I will say that these shocks were made specifically for a 40lb Rovan MT & not a 30lb Kraton. You need to ONLY buy 4 FRONTS OR 4 REARS - DO NOT BUY 2 OF EACH. The springs that come with the stocks WILL NOT work on the Arrma. You need to re-use the Arrma springs or use the GPM gold or silver springs. You also need to refill the shocks with 5000 to 6000cst silicone fluid depending on your setup & climate. You DO NOT need to limit the shaft on the 4 FRONTS if you use the Taller Towers on the front & rear. The 4 REARS WILL ONLY work with the Taller Towers & you WILL have to limit the REAR shafts. I also only used 1 bushing per shaft.

I also put 2 of the 1/4" SS washers, from Menards on both sides of the lower eyelet & 1 washer on both sides of the upper eyelet. That should keep the insert from pushing out & still allow the shock some wiggle room.
I just realized all this. I have to figure out if I bought front or rear Rovan shocks. I'm trying to make them work on my K8S EXB 😂.
This is what I bought.
US $61.73 2%OFF | CNC Metal High Strength 10MM Front or Rear Shock Absorber Set for 1/5 Hpi Rofun Baha Km Rovan Baja 5b 5t 5sc Truck Spare Parts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0g8bnt
 
I just realized all this. I have to figure out if I bought front or rear Rovan shocks. I'm trying to make them work on my K8S EXB 😂.
This is what I bought.
US $61.73 2%OFF | CNC Metal High Strength 10MM Front or Rear Shock Absorber Set for 1/5 Hpi Rofun Baha Km Rovan Baja 5b 5t 5sc Truck Spare Parts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0g8bnt
If you had the rear shocks, they would be 8 1/2" eye to eye, instant binding, & you would need a ton of muscle to fit them, plus the rear springs are about the same stiffness as the stock EXB rear springs. The front shocks are a tiny bit longer than the EXB rear shock, & have super soft springs. The fit on the EXB w/o much effort at all.
 
Heres another bash video of the Kraton MT with the rovan rear shocks
 
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