Senton A little assistance please...Tires!

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Spidaso

Active Member
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Location
Van Wert, Ohio
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Outcast 8s
  4. Senton 3s
  5. Vorteks
Thanks to the search button been able to sort a drivability issue on the wife's vorteks and at least get to the point of starting a warranty claim on a senton cogging and mysterious shut down with no flashing lights issue.....but...
Just recently started driving the senton at 100% and a few minutes in, blam! Shredded tire, pretty obvious the body cut it. Happened to be passing the hobby shop the next day so picked up a stock set.
This evening took it out to do some testing on the cogging issue to provide the warranty claim some data (I am in customer service for a large machine tool company and things go much easier when enough data is provided). 50% run for a bit, 5 seconds into 100% blam! RHR sliced like a tomatoes! Yes I was turning hard to the left, but Jesus new tire cut already!

Search brought up several like issues some saying they just don't do hard turns, cut the body etc etc. I really would rather not do any of these. Is there another option? If I need to cut the body, is there a guide on where to cut?
20230516_210233.webp
20230516_210233.webp
 
Check that diff fluid (to reduce diffing out), watch the tire ballooning, and easy on the trigger when it loses traction. Driving habits and terrain really make a lot of difference, a friend took a set of these down to racing slicks... That was fun!

Make sure your tires are glued properly as well, if they are not, CA glue will get you squared away.

Cutting the body is really easy, grab your self some Lexan scissors and just cut about 5mm on each wheel well. (y)

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-1737-Factory-Scissors/dp/B0006O6WD4

You can also check out different brands of tires, we grabbed a couple sets of the Duratrax Speedtread Breakaways, 12mm Hex (we have had good luck with them).
 
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You sure you're not ballooning them out? I see every new driver do that to their tires.

FWIW I recommend you convert to 17mm and run buggy tires, WAY more options.
Nah those tires suck it is a very common thing. The rubber on them is extremely thin all they have to do is tag the body and it is game over.
Thanks to the search button been able to sort a drivability issue on the wife's vorteks and at least get to the point of starting a warranty claim on a senton cogging and mysterious shut down with no flashing lights issue.....but...
Just recently started driving the senton at 100% and a few minutes in, blam! Shredded tire, pretty obvious the body cut it. Happened to be passing the hobby shop the next day so picked up a stock set.
This evening took it out to do some testing on the cogging issue to provide the warranty claim some data (I am in customer service for a large machine tool company and things go much easier when enough data is provided). 50% run for a bit, 5 seconds into 100% blam! RHR sliced like a tomatoes! Yes I was turning hard to the left, but Jesus new tire cut already!

Search brought up several like issues some saying they just don't do hard turns, cut the body etc etc. I really would rather not do any of these. Is there another option? If I need to cut the body, is there a guide on where to cut?View attachment 300122View attachment 300122

I would ditch the stock tires personally. I think the Proline sct tires fit but you either need to change to 12mm hex or buy the 14mm hex adapters for the wheels. I would go either Badlands or Trenchers.
 
Had same issue with my senton. 4 sliced tires in first month. Trimmed the body, mainly down at low corners in front and behind each tire. Problem solved. No problem with stock or my proline trenchers as shown. Trenchers require 12mm hexes fwiw. Stock is 14mm.

IMG_20230109_130718820_HDR.jpg
 
You sure you're not ballooning them out? I see every new driver do that to their tires.

FWIW I recommend you convert to 17mm and run buggy tires, WAY more options.
The last tire I'm pretty positive there Wan no balloning, accelerated in a turn from a slow crawl, heard a noise like a rock hitting the body (assume it was a the body hitting the tire) stopped and check and saw indeed tire sliced, 5 minutes into the run with a new tire....
Check that diff fluid (to reduce diffing out), watch the tire ballooning, and easy on the trigger when it loses traction. Driving habits and terrain really make a lot of difference, a friend took a set of these down to racing slicks... That was fun!

Make sure your tires are glued properly as well, if they are not, CA glue will get you squared away.

Cutting the body is really easy, grab your self some Lexan scissors and just cut about 5mm on each wheel well. (y)

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-1737-Factory-Scissors/dp/B0006O6WD4

You can also check out different brands of tires, we grabbed a couple sets of the Duratrax Speedtread Breakaways, 12mm Hex (we have had good luck with them).
Thanks! I really don't want to be easy on it...grip it and rip it. :)
 
The last tire I'm pretty positive there Wan no balloning, accelerated in a turn from a slow crawl, heard a noise like a rock hitting the body (assume it was a the body hitting the tire) stopped and check and saw indeed tire sliced, 5 minutes into the run with a new tire....
Turns and power are brutal on these tires, once one lifts off the ground under hard throttle it's game over 😆. The stock power in these 3S rigs are pretty crazy. If your diff fluid is low or empty it makes the problem even worse.

When mine wore out I went with different tires, I still hear them hitting the body at times... I should trim it as well.
 
Had same issue with my senton. 4 sliced tires in first month. Trimmed the body, mainly down at low corners in front and behind each tire. Problem solved. No problem with stock or my proline trenchers as shown. Trenchers require 12mm hexes fwiw. Stock is 14mm.

View attachment 300133
Ok, I can do that, it looks natural, shame ya gotta do that but if it works! Lol wife wasn't happy I had to buy new tires so quick, even less happy when a new tired shredded in minutes....joint amazon prime accounts suck!
Turns and power are brutal on these tires, once one lifts off the ground under hard throttle it's game over 😆. The stock power in these 3S rigs are pretty crazy. If your diff fluid is low or empty it makes the problem even worse.

When mine wore out I went with different tires, I still hear them hitting the body at times... I should trim it as well.
New cars known to be low on fluids? Should I tear into the diffs and shocks to check? I did notice the front was difficult to turn but fine after a few rotations..
Nah those tires suck it is a very common thing. The rubber on them is extremely thin all they have to do is tag the body and it is game over.


I would ditch the stock tires personally. I think the Proline sct tires fit but you either need to change to 12mm hex or buy the 14mm hex adapters for the wheels. I would go either Badlands or Trenchers.
Thank you sir, ditching stocks sounds like plan...joint amazon prime accounts suck tho!
 
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Granite tires, 16 tooth pinion, and aggressive trimming = hilarious amounts of fun!!

20230114_164620.webp
 
Thanks to the search button been able to sort a drivability issue on the wife's vorteks and at least get to the point of starting a warranty claim on a senton cogging and mysterious shut down with no flashing lights issue.....but...
Just recently started driving the senton at 100% and a few minutes in, blam! Shredded tire, pretty obvious the body cut it. Happened to be passing the hobby shop the next day so picked up a stock set.
This evening took it out to do some testing on the cogging issue to provide the warranty claim some data (I am in customer service for a large machine tool company and things go much easier when enough data is provided). 50% run for a bit, 5 seconds into 100% blam! RHR sliced like a tomatoes! Yes I was turning hard to the left, but Jesus new tire cut already!

Search brought up several like issues some saying they just don't do hard turns, cut the body etc etc. I really would rather not do any of these. Is there another option? If I need to cut the body, is there a guide on where to cut?View attachment 300122View attachment 300122
Body cover wouldn't do that.😲
 
Yes yes it does. Like I mentioned before it is a common problem.
Is that your front tire that keeps doing it? I didn't read the whole thread.if it is then turn your front wheels left and right and see where it hits.trim off that part.. maybe try getting smaller tyre's
Yes yes it does. Like I mentioned before it is a common problem.
Well .easy fix.trim the wheel openings then
 
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Is that your front tire that keeps doing it? I didn't read the whole thread.if it is then turn your front wheels left and right and see where it hits.trim off that part.. maybe try getting smaller tyre's

Well .easy fix.trim the wheel openings then
Right hand rear both times, heard it strike the body 5 minutes after putting new tire on. Hard lh turn on grippy surface equals a pissy wife because im "ordering more RC crap" :)
 
Right hand rear both times, heard it strike the body 5 minutes after putting new tire on. Hard lh turn on grippy surface equals a pissy wife because im "ordering more RC crap" :)
Have you tried trimming them wheel openings ?
 
Quick little update and thanks to all the suggestion- yup going to trim them openings!

I did contact Horizon Hobby on the tires and an issue where the car was cogging, while the support specialist stated they do not warranty tires he was going to send me 2 new ones free of charge as a courtesy and for the cogging issue a new spmxse1100 instead of a BLX100 is on the way, I am impressed with their CS!
 
Glad they took care of you, the cogging issue is prevalent (but not very noticeable), when it starts getting bad there are places you should check, like a smooth rolling drivetrain (no bad bearings, binding, etc.). But, ultimately from what I have seen on the forum its the ESC that is starting to or has failed when the cogging gets bad in the 3s line.

Let us know how it runs after you work it over. We love action pictures as well!

P.S. I have BLX100's that have been run pretty good, still kicking!

Welcome to the farm!
 
Glad they took care of you, the cogging issue is prevalent (but not very noticeable), when it starts getting bad there are places you should check, like a smooth rolling drivetrain (no bad bearings, binding, etc.). But, ultimately from what I have seen on the forum its the ESC that is starting to or has failed when the cogging gets bad in the 3s line.

Let us know how it runs after you work it over. We love action pictures as well!

P.S. I have BLX100's that have been run pretty good, still kicking!

Welcome to the farm!
NP with the pics- not very coordinated so it may be me taking pics while ducking out of the way.... the cogging issue came along with a sudden stop and a no go when the throttle is pulled. Looking under the hood there was no flashing light, unplug battery replug in, start back up and ran fine- might happen happen a few times per pack. Just in case some future readers run across this. I swapped the wifes Vorteks ESC in and zero issues.
 
Quick little update and thanks to all the suggestion- yup going to trim them openings!

I did contact Horizon Hobby on the tires and an issue where the car was cogging, while the support specialist stated they do not warranty tires he was going to send me 2 new ones free of charge as a courtesy and for the cogging issue a new spmxse1100 instead of a BLX100 is on the way, I am impressed with their CS!
Wow that's awesome..can't argue with great customer service
 
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