Typhon A new Typhon 3S needs... what, exactly?

NorthernCrawlerado

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I haven't taken a charged battery to my "ready-to-run" Typhon 3s Black Friday special yet...

I'm starting to believe I may have gotten myself into more of a pickle than I thought I was getting into... after reading SrC's Fireteam thread, where he found a BUUUUUNCH of stuff wrong with his supposedly ready-to-run car, and Engineer commented about finding his own (rather horrendous) problems with his Fireteam.

This raised a number of questions: how do I know if the factory has made any critical mistakes with my Typhon? What is "shimming a diff" and why would I feel compelled to do this? How can I check into the differentials' oils and how much is "enough" when I (somehow) choose the right weights to replace the missing oils in the (potentially) dry diffs...

And what of the bearings? SrC complained of unshimmed bearings, leading to loose steering. I notice my steering isn't super-precise, but haven't the judgement to know if this imprecision would be problematic for smooth dirt and groomed track minor bashing.

The quality control issues for Arrma appear to be... an issue, which has to be getting worse now that the PRC appears on the brink of social revolt.

How would a basically ignorant noob goofball like me avoid wrecking my new car due to me missing obvious problems? Guys, I know planes like the back of my own hand... can do them in my sleep.

Cars are much, much, MUUUUCH more complex. Like, 10,000x. :cry:
 

Rolannd

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I got a typhon 3s a couple months back and took it out and ran it after sealing up the motor plate. I have the thought process of drive it until it breaks and fix or upgrade the next problem.

I think another aspect of this is how you drive. If you are bashing or doing speed runs about then yes shimming diffs and bearings would be good to prevent some damage.

From what I have gleaned, shimming is basically removing the play in your gears. You can do this by adding shim washers to push the diff housing closer to the input drive, or getting the internal gears of your diff in a tighter mesh or closing up bearing gaps with shim washers.

If you want to preserve your rig, look into these preventative maintenance items. If you don't mind breaking down for a week to take apart your rig and fix it, go out and have fun now.

I have broken my rear hubs and bent a shock rod, but I bash and took it to a skatepark. I upgraded both those parts. Oh and bent my motor plate. Just bent it straight and kept going. Diffs will get redone this winter for me.

Regardless we will all help out if you need it! 😎
 

Dutch

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Take it out of the box, slap a battery in and send it. If it acts strange then start to investigate the problem. Most of all have fun!
I have a Granite,Typhon and Senton, beat the crap out them, have never done any diff maintenance on them and they all work just fine.
 

NorthernCrawlerado

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Sooo, it's  possible that I'm overthinking things a bit.

I've been known to do that from time-to-time... I am a careful muther with planes because you can't just pull them off the side of the road.

And people and schools sometimes find themselves under my aircraft.

Plus, I have lost more than a few to carelessness, so... I don't do that any more.:rolleyes: Ish.

All right, I'll give the thing another once-over and "send it" on Saturday down at the makeshift track in Centennial Park, or go to Erie Singletrack.
 

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T
Sooo, it's  possible that I'm overthinking things a bit.

I've been known to do that from time-to-time... I am a careful muther with planes because you can't just pull them off the side of the road.

And people and schools sometimes find themselves under my aircraft.

Plus, I have lost more than a few to carelessness, so... I don't do that any more.:rolleyes: Ish.

All right, I'll give the thing another once-over and "send it" on Saturday down at the makeshift track in Centennial Park, or go to Erie Singletrack.
That's the spirit, the 3s line is pretty robust, it's when you get into the 6 and 8s rigs that things need to be looked at a little closer.
 

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I haven't taken a charged battery to my "ready-to-run" Typhon 3s Black Friday special yet...

I'm starting to believe I may have gotten myself into more of a pickle than I thought I was getting into... after reading SrC's Fireteam thread, where he found a BUUUUUNCH of stuff wrong with his supposedly ready-to-run car, and Engineer commented about finding his own (rather horrendous) problems with his Fireteam.

This raised a number of questions: how do I know if the factory has made any critical mistakes with my Typhon? What is "shimming a diff" and why would I feel compelled to do this? How can I check into the differentials' oils and how much is "enough" when I (somehow) choose the right weights to replace the missing oils in the (potentially) dry diffs...

And what of the bearings? SrC complained of unshimmed bearings, leading to loose steering. I notice my steering isn't super-precise, but haven't the judgement to know if this imprecision would be problematic for smooth dirt and groomed track minor bashing.

The quality control issues for Arrma appear to be... an issue, which has to be getting worse now that the PRC appears on the brink of social revolt.

How would a basically ignorant noob goofball like me avoid wrecking my new car due to me missing obvious problems? Guys, I know planes like the back of my own hand... can do them in my sleep.

Cars are much, much, MUUUUCH more complex. Like, 10,000x. :cry:

Like I said in that thread RTR is a misleading term. It does not mean ready to run like any of the rc manufacturers lead you to believe. Many people joke that it actually means ready to rebuild because you basically have to. These issues are not limited to Arrma I have purchased "ready to run" cars from many manufacturers and every single one had some sort of assembly issue out of the box. The worst car was my Team Associated Apex Scion TC.
 

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You can search the forums and find LOTS of information regarding the 3S line but I feel like they have less issues than the 6S and 8S rigs as far as out of the box QA/QC issues.

Major to do's listed in my priority:

1. Set the steering end points (Must Do!)
2. Check the mesh on the spur gear and pinion, add lock tight to motor screws.
3. Seal the power module (lots of methods on the forum).
4. If you want to check the diffs you can, they are easy to remove, just don't over tighten any of the plastic screws when you re-assemble. Stock diff oil I believe is 10K, grease for the diff ring gear should be plastic safe (something like Superlube synthetic or silicon).
5. Shims, I don't typically add any. Once your pillow balls wear down you wont be going straight anymore anyways. :LOL:
6. Arrma often forgets Loctite on the screws holding the outer axle shafts. This means your entire wheel and axle stub could come off and roll down the road. It has happened to our Granite.

If the 3S Typhon is anything like the Senton you are in for a big treat. The Senton is fun! Our larger 3S rigs like the Granite seem to push the drive train to the edge at times.... Not having a center diff is a negative.
 

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Yeah totally just drive it and find out what you like, don't like, and need to upgrade. If wrenching and tinkering is your thing, then by all means, tear the thing apart and put it back together just for fun. A great way to get accustomed to the car and find any underlaying QC issues (y) Otherwise, if you're like me, just send it and learn as you go. Don't stress about something that you don't know is actually a problem.
 

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Take it out of the box, slap a battery in and send it. If it acts strange then start to investigate the problem. Most of all have fun!
I have a Granite,Typhon and Senton, beat the crap out them, have never done any diff maintenance on them and they all work just fine.
This. Have fun.
 

BudUMfan

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I just bought the 3S Typhon myself and I love it. I also have a FT and a slightly modified Talion. Exactly what you heard. I threw in a 6800 120c in mine and it rips. Stock shocks are a little weak so try not to bend them. If so? Jenny’s. Bought 2 extra pairs. Cause I’m beating the crap out of them all. Enjoy! It’s super nimble
 

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Everything that @RCbuzz said. I got mine and it should have been set up by the shop (that's what they said), but as you'll see through my post history the slipper clutch should be checked. Definitely check the Spur and Pinion meshing properly. I rechecked my wheels to make sure any screw I could get a wrench on was as tight as it SHOULD be (not could, but should :) ). If I was going to get another arrma car, and I certainly am, I would also go and check the exploded views on the arrma site and spend some cash on spare parts. Hubs, Axles, slipper clutch maintenance kits, slipper pads, extra spur. I tried to get as much of the less expensive stuff as possible to keep the car running whilst I learnt how to handle the car and get through its inevitable crashes - that's more of a user issue though :)
 

NorthernCrawlerado

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So that Typhon is SUPERB. Bashed it at a weird home-brewed track at Centennial Park in Frederick. The track is very small and not very fast as the whole thing is 1.5 cars wide and dug in a U-shape, and curves back on itself continuously.

There are only two tiny jumps, so no real place to catch air. Nevertheless I was able to get back in the groove pretty quickly but found my ability to see the machine diminished due to the weirdly high slopes on the track walls.
 
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