Kraton A plea to Arrma!

[TheBoy]

Please, please, please can you provide your models as a self build kit, so we can build them properly. Or please can you learn how to build them properly so they withstand shipping and storage before they reach the end user.

The lavish use of (poor quality) threadlock, coupled with (very) mild steel "monkey metal" screws into aluminium components means screws that will never come undone. To be honest, as any engineer will confirm, the use of threadlock implies a design issue. It should be so very rarely used. But the build quality is probably a bigger issue. I am sick to the back teeth of drilling out screws on brand new, unused, Arrma kits and retapping them (or in the case of front driveshafts, buying news ones), just so I can put them together properly, and allow me to use better quality screws and bearings.

I should point out, I am using decent tools, not the junk supplied. I should also point out that I learnt that you need to completely strip them and build them properly after my first 2 Arrma products.

So, come on Arrma, how about selling as a kit of parts.... ....or do you do it because there is more money in the spares than in the kits?


Its a mighty shame, because the Kraton in particular is great fun and pretty robust.

 

[SentFlying]

 

[slick2500]

Please, please, please can you provide your models as a self build kit, so we can build them properly. Or please can you learn how to build them properly so they withstand shipping and storage before they reach the end user.

The lavish use of (poor quality) threadlock, coupled with (very) mild steel "monkey metal" screws into aluminium components means screws that will never come undone. To be honest, as any engineer will confirm, the use of threadlock implies a design issue. It should be so very rarely used. But the build quality is probably a bigger issue. I am sick to the back teeth of drilling out screws on brand new, unused, Arrma kits and retapping them (or in the case of front driveshafts, buying news ones), just so I can put them together properly, and allow me to use better quality screws and bearings.

I should point out, I am using decent tools, not the junk supplied. I should also point out that I learnt that you need to completely strip them and build them properly after my first 2 Arrma products.

So, come on Arrma, how about selling as a kit of parts.... ....or do you do it because there is more money in the spares than in the kits?


Its a mighty shame, because the Kraton in particular is great fun and pretty robust.

Since when is 12.9 grade hardened steel very mild steel or monkey metal? The screws wouldn't strip if they would stop using a gallon of permanent thread lock on everything.

 

[Lukas412]

I agree kits would be awesome, but the only time I've rounded off a bolt in an Arrma was when I had no idea what I was doing and didn't use heat to loosen the lock tight and I rarely even need to do that. Heat is the key to lock tight.

 

[slick2500]

I agree kits would be awesome, but the only time I've rounded off a bolt in an Arrma was when I had no idea what I was doing and didn't use heat to loosen the lock tight and I rarely even need to do that. Heat is the key to lock tight.

I stripped the grub screw in the pinion on my motor because I've never needed to use heat to remove a screw on any of my rcs before.

 

[TheBoy]

I agree kits would be awesome, but the only time I've rounded off a bolt in an Arrma was when I had no idea what I was doing and didn't use heat to loosen the lock tight and I rarely even need to do that. Heat is the key to lock tight.

Yup, I do often get out the MAP gas torch, but I don't carry that when I go out to the local parks for some bashing, just a small tool pouch and common parts for quick repairs should something break.

I just put a lot of heat on 2 of the 3 screws that hold the motor mount to the chassis, still ended up chewing the heads. They are poor quality screws, no matter what others may say, which is why I've learnt to take some of them out as soon as the kit arrives, and put some decent ones in.

Can't always use heat though - for example one of my Kratons once had both the top and bottom screws holding the steering posts seized, and as the bellcrank is plastic....

I stripped the grub screw in the pinion on my motor because I've never needed to use heat to remove a screw on any of my rcs before.

See, if that was *PROPERLY* designed, by a proper engineer, the pinion would have a D or double D shape, not a hole. So the drive is through the motor flats direct to pinion, not via the grub screw. Thus, if properly designed, the grub screw would simply be to stop the pinion sliding along the shaft, and not need to be laced in the nastiest chinese threadlock that money can't buy its that poor.

Same goes for the poorly designed wheel hub to axle joins, reliant on a small pin to take the drive. Guess what, the pin shears all too often, and because the grub screw is held in with said poor threadlock, and corroded in place due to 3 months on a slow boat from China, you end up drilling the stuff out if heat fails.

 

[Overpowerrc]

Yup, I do often get out the MAP gas torch, but I don't carry that when I go out to the local parks for some bashing, just a small tool pouch and common parts for quick repairs should something break.

I just put a lot of heat on 2 of the 3 screws that hold the motor mount to the chassis, still ended up chewing the heads. They are poor quality screws, no matter what others may say, which is why I've learnt to take some of them out as soon as the kit arrives, and put some decent ones in.

Can't always use heat though - for example one of my Kratons once had both the top and bottom screws holding the steering posts seized, and as the bellcrank is plastic....

See, if that was *PROPERLY* designed, by a proper engineer, the pinion would have a D or double D shape, not a hole. So the drive is through the motor flats direct to pinion, not via the grub screw. Thus, if properly designed, the grub screw would simply be to stop the pinion sliding along the shaft, and not need to be laced in the nastiest chinese threadlock that money can't buy its that poor.

Same goes for the poorly designed wheel hub to axle joins, reliant on a small pin to take the drive. Guess what, the pin shears all too often, and because the grub screw is held in with said poor threadlock, and corroded in place due to 3 months on a slow boat from China, you end up drilling the stuff out if heat fails.

What tools are you using

 

[slick2500]

Yup, I do often get out the MAP gas torch, but I don't carry that when I go out to the local parks for some bashing, just a small tool pouch and common parts for quick repairs should something break.

I just put a lot of heat on 2 of the 3 screws that hold the motor mount to the chassis, still ended up chewing the heads. They are poor quality screws, no matter what others may say, which is why I've learnt to take some of them out as soon as the kit arrives, and put some decent ones in.

Can't always use heat though - for example one of my Kratons once had both the top and bottom screws holding the steering posts seized, and as the bellcrank is plastic....

See, if that was *PROPERLY* designed, by a proper engineer, the pinion would have a D or double D shape, not a hole. So the drive is through the motor flats direct to pinion, not via the grub screw. Thus, if properly designed, the grub screw would simply be to stop the pinion sliding along the shaft, and not need to be laced in the nastiest chinese threadlock that money can't buy its that poor.

Same goes for the poorly designed wheel hub to axle joins, reliant on a small pin to take the drive. Guess what, the pin shears all too often, and because the grub screw is held in with said poor threadlock, and corroded in place due to 3 months on a slow boat from China, you end up drilling the stuff out if heat fails.

Would you believe me if I told you my axle pins and hubs are 3 years old? Those, the front turnbuckles, the rear camber links, the front upper hinge pins and the rear outer hinge pins are the only things that are still factory.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Here... https://jennysrc.com/search?type=product&q=Arrma
Buy all the parts individually and assemble them as a kit to your specs
Problem solved

 

[SentFlying]

Dear op.

Mini torch!???????

 

[Haziza]

Kits would be awesome because we need to check everything on arrival anyway!

 

[Yas]

I've not stripped or sheared a single screw on any of my Arrmas, although I will agree with the love of thread lock. It hasn't been too bad for me, but the one place in particular they use too much is on the wheel hexes and axles

Whoever it is along the assembly line that pumps thread lock to the axle and set screw that holds the drive pin in needs to be told it's really not necessary! Just a small amount on the set screw would be enough. It's kept in by the wheel anyway!

I had to use plumber's abrasive pads to clean the steel axles of stale thread lock after I struggled to get them out

These drive pins last for me. Also, the new models now have the "Safe D" pinions with a D-shaped bore ?

 

[L3phturn]

Wheel hexes, axles and the screws holding the motor mount to the chassis seems to be the bad ones. Just too much of the wrong threadlock.

But no, they can't make kits. Making a kit is more expensive and requires a whole different level of support. You have to realize that for the majority of the trucks they sell their customers will just chuck a battery in and go. They are better to error on the side of too much than too little. Yes, they have gone too far and yes I am sure they are concerned about that but making kits just isn't reasonable.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

This forum is not tied to arrma or horizon hobbies. It is privately run. So your plea to arrma is like pissing in the wind here

 

[TooTall]

Please, please, please can you provide your models as a self build kit, so we can build them properly. Or please can you learn how to build them properly so they withstand shipping and storage before they reach the end user.

The lavish use of (poor quality) threadlock, coupled with (very) mild steel "monkey metal" screws into aluminium components means screws that will never come undone. To be honest, as any engineer will confirm, the use of threadlock implies a design issue. It should be so very rarely used. But the build quality is probably a bigger issue. I am sick to the back teeth of drilling out screws on brand new, unused, Arrma kits and retapping them (or in the case of front driveshafts, buying news ones), just so I can put them together properly, and allow me to use better quality screws and bearings.

I should point out, I am using decent tools, not the junk supplied. I should also point out that I learnt that you need to completely strip them and build them properly after my first 2 Arrma products.

So, come on Arrma, how about selling as a kit of parts.... ....or do you do it because there is more money in the spares than in the kits?


Its a mighty shame, because the Kraton in particular is great fun and pretty robust.

Jason Deardon has stated multiple times over and over they won't provide kits. QC is worse with kits, and it is not their market.

 

[slick2500]

This forum is not tied to arrma or horizon hobbies. It is privately run. So your plea to arrma is like pissing in the wind here

No not really they do read the forums.

 

[Rip King MC]

Please, please, please can you provide your models as a self build kit, so we can build them properly. Or please can you learn how to build them properly so they withstand shipping and storage before they reach the end user.

The lavish use of (poor quality) threadlock, coupled with (very) mild steel "monkey metal" screws into aluminium components means screws that will never come undone. To be honest, as any engineer will confirm, the use of threadlock implies a design issue. It should be so very rarely used. But the build quality is probably a bigger issue. I am sick to the back teeth of drilling out screws on brand new, unused, Arrma kits and retapping them (or in the case of front driveshafts, buying news ones), just so I can put them together properly, and allow me to use better quality screws and bearings.

I should point out, I am using decent tools, not the junk supplied. I should also point out that I learnt that you need to completely strip them and build them properly after my first 2 Arrma products.

So, come on Arrma, how about selling as a kit of parts.... ....or do you do it because there is more money in the spares than in the kits?


Its a mighty shame, because the Kraton in particular is great fun and pretty robust.

Traxxas people. ?

 

[TheBoy]

Jason Deardon has stated multiple times over and over they won't provide kits. QC is worse with kits, and it is not their market.

Blimey, if the QC is poor on the parts as a kit, what chance does ar RTR kit stand when put together in a Chinese sweat shop.

Its QC why I want a kit, because the QC on the RTR is not short of appalling.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

No not really they do read the forums.

They may but this is not arrma sponsored ??

 

[Maddogsandenglishmen]

Please, please, please can you provide your models as a self build kit, so we can build them properly. Or please can you learn how to build them properly so they withstand shipping and storage before they reach the end user.

The lavish use of (poor quality) threadlock, coupled with (very) mild steel "monkey metal" screws into aluminium components means screws that will never come undone. To be honest, as any engineer will confirm, the use of threadlock implies a design issue. It should be so very rarely used. But the build quality is probably a bigger issue. I am sick to the back teeth of drilling out screws on brand new, unused, Arrma kits and retapping them (or in the case of front driveshafts, buying news ones), just so I can put them together properly, and allow me to use better quality screws and bearings.

I should point out, I am using decent tools, not the junk supplied. I should also point out that I learnt that you need to completely strip them and build them properly after my first 2 Arrma products.

So, come on Arrma, how about selling as a kit of parts.... ....or do you do it because there is more money in the spares than in the kits?


Its a mighty shame, because the Kraton in particular is great fun and pretty robust.

Really missed the build part with my Typhon, it would have been ideal to put it together myself. Dropped back to 1/10th scale this year so I could race at my local track, and really enjoyed the build on my 2WD buggy. Racing is a different world to bashing of course, especially at 1/10th scale, but lots of fun to be had. Still out with the Typhon though when I have a need for speed, carnage and 50’ long jumps!