Puppetman
Member
They may not give much protection, but they look mean! I like the look with the top skid plates. Makes the whole rig seem that much more aggressive.
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Cheers. Let me know if you want a copy of the stl filesThey may not give much protection, but they look mean! I like the look with the top skid plates. Makes the whole rig seem that much more aggressive.
I'd love the .stl files!Cheers. Let me know if you want a copy of the stl files
Cheers for saying soThat looks AWESOME!!!
Cheers!Nice work, looks good!
Oh it is going to get sent!!!Looks great. Bet you don't want to send it now.
Cheers dude. Very kind of you to sayTruly nice truck my friend, you've done sone amazing things with it. July 5th can't come fast enough for you, Happy Birthday! I wish you the best of days!
Yeah, I designed and 3d printed those, but I would not recommend them. 2 bad landings later they were completely destroyed.Hello where did you purchase the shell hood skid plate or did you make it? Is that the STL file you were talking about?
WowYeah, I designed and 3d printed those, but I would not recommend them. 2 bad landings later they were completely destroyed.
Awesome work has been working food for me. Thank you!!!I love that these are still in use. Same on by Big Rock and my brothers big rock. I did a set of Granite lights that are on 2 cars now too
Thats pretty cool, good jobI wanted to share my lighting project on my BRCC. I like to drive at night and the lights help see which direction I am facing. I wanted it to look as stock as possible, mount the lights to the chassis rather than the body so there are no wires to get snapped etc when removing the body, ensure they do not stick out and get hit, and can be controlled from the controller if possible, and be as cheap as possible
For the rear lights, I have simply drilled 5mm holes in the rear bumper, filled the surrounding space with hot glue , and cut off flush to make neat with a sharp knife. I finished them off with a bit of wiring, soldering, and a 33ohm resistor (before both LEDs wired in parallel)
For the fronts, I have cut out holes in the stock bumper (small drill bits and a Dremel helped), and 3d printed some inserts with accept 2x 5mm LEDs, and a butt load of hot glue, trimmed with a knife again. I went with a 68ohm resistor this time, for 4x LEDs wired in parallel. I will post the STL files on Thingiverse if anyone wants them.
For power, I looked to the receiver, but the motor fan is already using CH3, so I have a servo Y lead (couple of quid), and a CH3 LED controller (bout a fiver on eBay), so I can plug both in. I have shortened the wires because getting all the wires in the receiver box was bloomin' tough.
The result is though that I have power to my fan still, and I can switch my lights on using the controller. For some reason I need to press UP and then DOWN to cycle through the lighting options? No idea why, but I'm sure I can live with that.
Let me know what you think?
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Awesome job. I wish I knew about wiring and voltage stuff.I wanted to share my lighting project on my BRCC. I like to drive at night and the lights help see which direction I am facing. I wanted it to look as stock as possible, mount the lights to the chassis rather than the body so there are no wires to get snapped etc when removing the body, ensure they do not stick out and get hit, and can be controlled from the controller if possible, and be as cheap as possible
For the rear lights, I have simply drilled 5mm holes in the rear bumper, filled the surrounding space with hot glue , and cut off flush to make neat with a sharp knife. I finished them off with a bit of wiring, soldering, and a 33ohm resistor (before both LEDs wired in parallel)
For the fronts, I have cut out holes in the stock bumper (small drill bits and a Dremel helped), and 3d printed some inserts with accept 2x 5mm LEDs, and a butt load of hot glue, trimmed with a knife again. I went with a 68ohm resistor this time, for 4x LEDs wired in parallel. I will post the STL files on Thingiverse if anyone wants them.
For power, I looked to the receiver, but the motor fan is already using CH3, so I have a servo Y lead (couple of quid), and a CH3 LED controller (bout a fiver on eBay), so I can plug both in. I have shortened the wires because getting all the wires in the receiver box was bloomin' tough.
The result is though that I have power to my fan still, and I can switch my lights on using the controller. For some reason I need to press UP and then DOWN to cycle through the lighting options? No idea why, but I'm sure I can live with that.
Let me know what you think?
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Thanks for resurrecting this thread. Awesome stuff here!Pretty gnarly u went the whole 9 yards on this one!! From question, research , hypothesis, experimenting, to data and conclusion.. then innovating and marketing straight to sales!!
My man!!
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