Mojave Advice: Mojave Exb Build

[ErieArrma]

My first build, Mojave EXB! Before I get started, any tips on the details you guys can give to avoid inevitable frustration? Any pinion recommendations? Do I need any special screws or hardware, like motor mount? Here are some pics of what I have on hand. Will this servo be adaquate?

I plan on sorting through the various threads as I’m sure there lots out there but it’s kind of overwhelming!

Main components

My first build, Mojave EXB! Before I get started, any tips on the details you guys can give to avoid inevitable frustration? Any pinion recommendations? Do I need any special screws or hardware, like motor mount? Here are some pics of what I have on hand. Will this servo be adaquate?

I plan on sorting through the various threads as I’m sure there lots out there but it’s kind of overwhelming!

 

[Jon NC RC]

@Grimbles may be able to help ya on this.....he is over in UK, but he had a nice Mojave build thread that may help

Btw, my stock Mojave servo won't win any awards, but it is sufficient for me....

 

[norcalsc]

check and fill all three differentials

 

[Yas]

All of those electronics look great. I use a 22 tooth pinion with the same HW MAX6 combo. It'll be a lot of fun and more manageable on 4S with this gearing, and blisteringly fast on 6S if you have fields of open space in mind

I would recommend Scorched Parts RC wheel fenders, especially if you're planning on running through grass, snow or mud. It's a closed-wheel chassis, with the wheels tucked under the body that quickly fill the inside with debris. The fenders will need cutting out and can take a while to fit but they're definitely worth it

Another upgrade suggestion I could make would be the M2C 17mm hex extensions. The original wheel moulds were subpar. The wheels nuts had a habit of falling off and the wheel's plastic hex would strip as a result. The M2C hexes come with an additional serrated nut that held the wheel to the axle better. You may not need these M2C hexes because your Mojave may have the updated wheel mould, but it couldn't hurt to upgrade them anyway as a preemptive fix to an existing or potential problem

Lastly... it may be worth opening each of the diffs and topping them up with their respective oils (10k cSt F/R, 100k centre) as they're usually low from the factory builds. Also, check all hardware, and always heat up screws that are fed in to metal. I use a small butane torch, others have had luck using a soldering iron. The axle grub screws are notorious for stripping out because they're usually caked in thread lock when they don't need to be

 

[ErieArrma]

All of those electronics look great. I use a 22 tooth pinion with the same HW MAX6 combo. It'll be a lot of fun and more manageable on 4S with this gearing, and blisteringly fast on 6S if you have fields of open space in mind

I would recommend Scorched Parts RC wheel fenders, especially if you're planning on running through grass, snow or mud. It's a closed-wheel chassis, with the wheels tucked under the body that quickly fill the inside with debris. The fenders will need cutting out and can take a while to fit but they're definitely worth it

Another upgrade suggestion I could make would be the M2C 17mm hex extensions. The original wheel moulds were subpar. The wheels nuts had a habit of falling off and the wheel's plastic hex would strip as a result. The M2C hexes come with an additional serrated nut that held the wheel to the axle better. You may not need these M2C hexes because your Mojave may have the updated wheel mould, but it couldn't hurt to upgrade them anyway as a preemptive fix to an existing or potential problem

Lastly... it may be worth opening each of the diffs and topping them up with their respective oils (10k cSt F/R, 100k centre) as they're usually low from the factory builds. Also, check all hardware, and always heat up screws that are fed in to metal. I use a small butane torch, others have had luck using a soldering iron. The axle grub screws are notorious for stripping out because they're usually caked in thread lock when they don't need to be

Excellent, thanks so much for the great advice !! Really appreciate it

 

[Sean 1978]

Get a servo horn with the new servo. The 23 tooth servo horn that comes with the truck will cost you a return trip to the hobby store. Or wait on delivery. I was done with my build or so I thought. connecting the servo to the servo saver was my last thing had batteries charged and ready to go and then realized its a 23 tooth not 25 tooth. A minor inconvenience but pissed me off.

 

[Grimbles]

Scorched parts fenders
Foam pads in the body mounts... +1 m2c hex extensions
I also love the pps motor mount but it is spenny.
Pinions - start low and work up until the motor gets too hot. Depends on terrain and outside temp.
Dry wall tape and shoe goo the shell.

 

[ficosk8]

Good morning Erie,

mine is also waiting. Today I´ll start with a light combo: 150A Ace RC ESC (I got it as a gift with some old Turnigy trooper spare parts), Rocket 4092 (used but like new, quite cheap), 9imod 35 kg HV servo from AliExpress, SR6000 receiver (for the optional AVC) and DX2E sender. Looking Rick Duperbash videos with that Rocket motor I think it will be more than enough for me as almost a beginner. I have run a couple of 1/10s but mainly I was fixing them , and that´s frustrating. Therefore I went with the Mojave EXB, hoping to fix less and ride more My original plan is to put the electronics from a Kraton 8S (1250KV) that I bought used in very good conditions with good LiPos . But I´ll start light for the beginning... And pinion: I have a set from 13 to 19 or a 23 from the Kraton. I ordered a 30 a good time ago but it hasn´t come yet. But it would be too much gearing probably.

I bought mine about 6 weeks ago. Now it´s on super sale but that was destiny ... I heard and read about the old Diff problems. I saw that mine did come with diff shims an no pinion. I´m a bit worried that this could be an older model. But my seller I think gets his gear directly from Horizon Hobby here in Germany. He has no stock. So it should be an actual model? Could you tell that from the serial numbers on the box?

Have all a nice day!
Greetings from Bavaria

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Also running the Max6/4985 combo here, great combo for the Mojave. Servo wise I just went from a DS3230 to DS3235. Althought the 30KG did it's job the 35KG is faster, stronger and quieter, so that servo you are planning to run should be OK.
See how you like the stock shock oil first, but I prefer the handling with 1000CST.
Scorched inner fenders are a must-have IMO (the Mojave is a vaccuum cleaner without them).
Some are OK running stock hexes, but like (many) others I also stripped a wheel hex in the first session. Apparently if you very regulalry check if the wheel nuts are still secure you shoudl be OK, but I just went with +2mm M2C hexes, which have solved that issue.
The body at the taillghts is weak and will crack. Reinforce it with drywall tape and (rubber) flex seal or shoe goo to minimize cracking (but will still happen).
Other than that, enjoy it's a phenomenal car!!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I run that servo in my Outcast. On 7.4 it is twitchy fast, loads of power.

 

[BashingBrian]

Some good info's here and here..

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/grimbles-mojave-exb-build-thread.29151/

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bashingbrians-mojave-exb.33147/

 

[ErieArrma]

Get a servo horn with the new servo. The 23 tooth servo horn that comes with the truck will cost you a return trip to the hobby store. Or wait on delivery. I was done with my build or so I thought. connecting the servo to the servo saver was my last thing had batteries charged and ready to go and then realized its a 23 tooth not 25 tooth. A minor inconvenience but pissed me off.

Thanks for reminding me of this! I ran into this frustration on other Arrma cars

Some good info's here and here..

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/grimbles-mojave-exb-build-thread.29151/

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bashingbrians-mojave-exb.33147/

You rule!

I run that servo in my Outcast. On 7.4 it is twitchy fast, loads of power.

GREAT to know. Thank you!!

Also running the Max6/4985 combo here, great combo for the Mojave. Servo wise I just went from a DS3230 to DS3235. Althought the 30KG did it's job the 35KG is faster, stronger and quieter, so that servo you are planning to run should be OK.
See how you like the stock shock oil first, but I prefer the handling with 1000CST.
Scorched inner fenders are a must-have IMO (the Mojave is a vaccuum cleaner without them).
Some are OK running stock hexes, but like (many) others I also stripped a wheel hex in the first session. Apparently if you very regulalry check if the wheel nuts are still secure you shoudl be OK, but I just went with +2mm M2C hexes, which have solved that issue.
The body at the taillghts is weak and will crack. Reinforce it with drywall tape and (rubber) flex seal or shoe goo to minimize cracking (but will still happen).
Other than that, enjoy it's a phenomenal car!!

I ordered the fenders.. good call. Vacuum cleaner hahahhaahah

Good morning Erie,

mine is also waiting. Today I´ll start with a light combo: 150A Ace RC ESC (I got it as a gift with some old Turnigy trooper spare parts), Rocket 4092 (used but like new, quite cheap), 9imod 35 kg HV servo from AliExpress, SR6000 receiver (for the optional AVC) and DX2E sender. Looking Rick Duperbash videos with that Rocket motor I think it will be more than enough for me as almost a beginner. I have run a couple of 1/10s but mainly I was fixing them , and that´s frustrating. Therefore I went with the Mojave EXB, hoping to fix less and ride more My original plan is to put the electronics from a Kraton 8S (1250KV) that I bought used in very good conditions with good LiPos . But I´ll start light for the beginning... And pinion: I have a set from 13 to 19 or a 23 from the Kraton. I ordered a 30 a good time ago but it hasn´t come yet. But it would be too much gearing probably.

I bought mine about 6 weeks ago. Now it´s on super sale but that was destiny ... I heard and read about the old Diff problems. I saw that mine did come with diff shims an no pinion. I´m a bit worried that this could be an older model. But my seller I think gets his gear directly from Horizon Hobby here in Germany. He has no stock. So it should be an actual model? Could you tell that from the serial numbers on the box?

Have all a nice day!
Greetings from Bavaria

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Good luck -- I'm sure you'll get it tuned up nice. I got mine a year ago... likely an "old" model??
Is there a particular pinion set you guys would recommend or are they pretty much all the same??

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Thanks for reminding me of this! I ran into this frustration on other Arrma cars

You rule!

GREAT to know. Thank you!!

I ordered the fenders.. good call. Vacuum cleaner hahahhaahah

Good luck -- I'm sure you'll get it tuned up nice. I got mine a year ago... likely an "old" model??
Is there a particular pinion set you guys would recommend or are they pretty much all the same??

Pinion size depends on ambient temp, the fans, terrain you’re running and your drivingstyle. Somewhere in the 17t-22t range Is what most seem to be running. I think 19t is a good starting point and watch the temps of your motor. You can go from there.

 

[ErieArrma]

Pinion size depends on ambient temp, the fans, terrain you’re running and your drivingstyle. Somewhere in the 17t-22t range Is what most seem to be running. I think 19t is a good starting point and watch the temps of your motor. You can go from there.

Is there a particular brand of pinions that people are fond of?

 

[Yas]

Is there a particular brand of pinions that people are fond of?

RW (UK based), Robinson Racing and Tekno pinions seem to be the consensus here I've tried a few Arrma ones but they seem to be of a softer steel and don't usually last as long

 

[ErieArrma]

@Grimbles or others do you happen to have the specs of the approximate thickness of foam pads that work well for the body mounts? Also, does anyone have a link for a set of shims that would be appropriate in case I need them? Are these any good: https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-differential-shim-set-fits-29mm-case-ara311094/p1279578

not sure if the Mojave is 29mm diff case?

 

[Sandracer_NL]

pinions: Tekno-> they use hex2.5 for the pinion grub screw, where other use hex2.0. Less change of stripping. If you are not sure which pinion size you like/want you can also buy a Amazon/Ebay/Ali set of 5 for the cost of one Tekno. They are not bad and you can run them no problem. Once you know which size(s) you like I recommend Tekno though.
shims: Mugen Seiki E0206

 

[ErieArrma]

pinions: Tekno-> they use hex2.5 for the pinion grub screw, where other use hex2.0. Less change of stripping. If you are not sure which pinion size you like/want you can also buy a Amazon/Ebay/Ali set of 5 for the cost of one Tekno. They are not bad and you can run them no problem. Once you know which size(s) you like I recommend Tekno though.
shims: Mugen Seiki E0206

Excellent, many thanks!!

 

[Yas]

The Mugen E0206 shims are not for the GP4 (29mm) LSDs that your Mojave has (as well as all other 6S EXBs). They're for the standard RTR (31mm) open diffs

Your diffs shouldn't need shimming, although there are ways of using certain shims in an open GP4 setup. Personally I wouldn't look in to this just yet - crack them open, top them up and see how you like how it drives to begin with

 

[ErieArrma]

The Mugen E0206 shims are not for the GP4 (29mm) LSDs that your Mojave has (as well as all other 6S EXBs). They're for the standard RTR (31mm) open diffs

Your diffs shouldn't need shimming, although there are ways of using certain shims in an open GP4 setup. Personally I wouldn't look in to this just yet - crack them open, top them up and see how you like how it drives to begin with

Thank you! Good call… I’ll just fill and chill