Limitless ALKORC's Limitless V2 aka Yıldırım - Technical Race Build

[alkorc]

my options are ;

1. Quicrun combo again 4274 motor and 150 amp esc
2. Castle 1515 2200kv motor and max6 esc
3. Castle 1721 2400kv motor and max6 esc

I really like 1721 motor but not sure how it would work with max6 esc - any thoughts?

My setup will be limited CAP AT 4S only

@kaladeth

 

[Luke66]

Castle 1515 imo. As long as the can is big enough to pull the car well(power/weight ratio) it would be nice to have a motor that’s a bit smaller to shave some weight. (Although I’m not familiar with Castles sizing system I assume the 1515 is smaller)

Castle ESCs typically don’t like non-castle motors, but a Castle motor with a HW ESC should be good.

And maybe even save some $ and go with the Quikrun combo again. If it’s good then why change? Do you feel the need for more power?

 

[alkorc]

Castle 1515 imo. As long as the can is big enough to pull the car well(power/weight ratio) it would be nice to have a motor that’s a bit smaller to shave some weight. (Although I’m not familiar with Castles sizing system I assume the 1515 is smaller)

Castle ESCs typically don’t like non-castle motors, but a Castle motor with a HW ESC should be good.

And maybe even save some $ and go with the Quikrun combo again. If it’s good then why change? Do you feel the need for more power?

Thanks for the feedback!

Right now I’m running a Max8 with the Quicrun 4274 motor. And while it served me well for a long time, I’ve started noticing consistent thermal issues after about 7–8 minutes of driving.

Even though I’ve done a lot to improve the cooling (custom fan setups, external battery for fans, etc.), the ESC still gets very hot—last time I measured it was hitting 100°C (212°F).
At first, I thought it was battery sag. But after letting the car cool down for a few minutes and going again, the power was there again. So I’m now leaning toward this being an ESC/motor combo limitation rather than just voltage drop.

Our track has a long straight, and while I’m doing great in technical sections, I’m getting caught on the straight due to lack of power and thermal fade. I'd like to fix that.
Since my Quicrun motor failed recently, I’m exploring stronger combos that will stay cool and consistent under 4S. I’m hard-capped at 4S (by choice), so I need to find the most powerful and thermally stable option within that limit.
I really like the 1721 2400KV motor—mainly for the torque and thermal headroom—but I’m unsure how well it would behave paired with a Max6 (since I’m avoiding XLX2 due to local customs). That’s my biggest question right now.

Here’s a recent race where you can clearly see what I mean — strong start, then the car fades hard ( doing another my personal best lap 30.50s clearly visible in the video, but lap counter is in Turkish unfortunately ):
latest race

If you’ve got any experience running a high-torque setup on 4S or thoughts on the Max6 + 1721 pairing, I’d love to hear it.

Thanks again!

 

[Luke66]

I think that if you’re having ESC heat issues it’s going to take more than just a better motor. Have you considered getting a MAX4? Honestly I’m rather surprised that 4S is able to get a 8S ESC so upset.

Unfortunately I don’t really have any hands-on experience with running 4S in larger cars (in fact, my biggest RC as of now is a Typhon 6S) so I can’t really provide too much help because I’ve never dealt with any motors over the size of the Arrma 6S stock can.

One idea that I would possibly try (would take a lot of work, results probably wouldn’t be great) would be to try to shave as much weight as possible. In theory the electronics shouldn’t have to work as hard if the cars weight isn’t fighting them the whole way around the track. Plus you’d get better handling etc. But to do that you’d need for forgo the cooling system and somehow cool the system without fans (air scoops or something like that) and also just in general take stuff off. Might not be a good idea, but maybe worth a shot? Not sure if air scoops would be a good idea though, due to the fact that they’d let in a bunch of air under the body creating drag (although can be fixed partially by cutting air outlets in the rear of the body) and idk if scoops would have the raw power needed to cool the beast.

Unfortunately I have little experience to help you out, but I have ideas that could possibly help.

 

[kaladeth]

If you can’t go with an XLX2, go with a MAX6.

MAX6 G2 with 4990-1650kV has been solid (on Yellow Three) and is also the ESC and motor combo of choice of most drivers at the Warm Springs track.

That said I’ve run other combos like the XLX2 with 2028-1100kV (on Red One) and the MMX8S with 4070-1700kV (on Pink Two) and they hold their own just fine.

Both Pink Two and Yellow Three need decent cooling. What I like about Red One is I don’t need any fans on it.

 

[alkorc]

Just a quick update from the pit lane — I’ve got some good news and some even better news.

First off, huge thanks to everyone who jumped in with ideas, suggestions, and personal experiences. Whether it was cooling strategies, ESC options, or power system advice — I read everything and took it all in. Special shoutouts to Kaladeth ( again! ) recommended the RaceBox Micro — I just picked one up, and I’m beyond excited to start digging into actual racing lines, lap consistency, and corner data. This should take my track analysis to the next level.


While waiting on the bigger upgrades, I decided to re-invest in what’s familiar: I bought another Quicrun G2 4274 motor to pair with Quicrun 150A ESC. It served me well before (until the unfortunate motor failure), and I’m planning to throw it back in this weekend and hit the track for some good old-fashioned testing. Can’t wait to combine that with RaceBox GPS.

Now for the exciting part…

TP Power Motor + Max6 Update:

After a lot of research and some help from awesome folks, I found someone who can help me get my hands on the legendary TP Power 4060-CM 2080KV motor, paired with the Max6 G2 ESC. Once that combo lands, it’s going straight into the Limitless.


This setup should give me the low-RPM torque and top-end pull I’ve been missing — especially for our long straight at Maltepe. With RaceBox in the mix, I’m hoping to finally start correlating feeling vs. data in a meaningful way.


I’ll keep everyone posted after this weekend’s run with the Quicrun + RaceBox combo.

Let’s see how far a few fans, a G2 ESC, and some obsessive lap data can take us

See you under the tower.
— ALKO

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I have heard some people claim the CM motors pull more amps and run a little hotter.
I know that info is a little late now that you made the purchase.

In the end the larger can = more surface area for cooling.

Maybe if this motor runs hot try a TP4070 (standard version) with the same 2080kv.

 

[alkorc]

I have heard some people claim the CM motors pull more amps and run a little hotter.
I know that info is a little late now that you made the purchase.

In the end the larger can = more surface area for cooling.

Maybe if this motor runs hot try a TP4070 (standard version) with the same 2080kv.

Thanks you for your answer! — it’s definitely not too late, I can still make changes if needed( big kudos to OnyxPower BTW! ), so I really appreciate your input!

I actually went through the TP spec charts before placing the order, and that’s one of the reasons I leaned toward the 4060-CM 2080KV. According to their chart, this motor pulls a max of 190A, which stays safely under the continuous 200A rating of the Max6 G2. It felt like a safer, more balanced match for 4S track use.

On the other hand, the 4070 standard 2080KV shows a 300A max draw, which honestly feels like it's pushing well past what the Max6 G2 can realistically handle — especially in longer race sessions like we do.

That said, I’m curious what your experience has been with the CM vs. standard versions in terms of temps and real-world current draw. If you’ve tested both, which one would you personally go with for technical track racing (not speed runs or drags) — especially with a hard 4S limit?

Thanks again for jumping in — I’m always open to refining the setup before things ship out.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thanks you for your answer! — it’s definitely not too late, I can still make changes if needed( big kudos to OnyxPower BTW! ), so I really appreciate your input!

I actually went through the TP spec charts before placing the order, and that’s one of the reasons I leaned toward the 4060-CM 2080KV. According to their chart, this motor pulls a max of 190A, which stays safely under the continuous 200A rating of the Max6 G2. It felt like a safer, more balanced match for 4S track use.

On the other hand, the 4070 standard 2080KV shows a 300A max draw, which honestly feels like it's pushing well past what the Max6 G2 can realistically handle — especially in longer race sessions like we do.

That said, I’m curious what your experience has been with the CM vs. standard versions in terms of temps and real-world current draw. If you’ve tested both, which one would you personally go with for technical track racing (not speed runs or drags) — especially with a hard 4S limit?

Thanks again for jumping in — I’m always open to refining the setup before things ship out.

Something worth clarifying is that if I put a TP4070 into a small 1/10 road car and it will not immediately run 300a. That is determined by the load / gearing / weight.
The continuous rating is what the motor can handle running without getting damaged running non-stop.

The larger surface area helps shed more heat which is a big part of the higher rating. I can make a small 3640 pull over 500 amps if loaded heavily enough. But it cannot shed the heat due to the small can size so the heat soak will be extreme.

Your 200a limit from the ESC will restrict getting to high amperages but could run into power cuts, which I understand is your worry. That can be controlled by how aggressive you are getting on and off throttle.

There is no perfect answer for motors. You have to find a balance, because the larger motors also have more weight and may not always fit a specific setup. You will have to weigh out the Pros and Cons of each option.

In general the CM series are known for pulling more amps and running a little hotter. They are usually only needed if you plan to run over 50k rpms which I don't recommend as high rpms = heat.

 

[alkorc]

Minor Update – RaceBox Micro & Quicrun Exit​

Just a quick update on the recent changes.

RaceBox Micro GPS
I’ve had a chance to test it out over a few sessions now and… it’s absolutely worth every penny.
Being able to actually see my racing line — not just feel it — has opened my eyes to so many areas for improvement. There’s still a lot of time left on the table, and I’m definitely planning to chase it down.

Quicrun 4274 G2 (Again...)
Unfortunately, not all news is good. After just 5 battery packs, the motor shaft bent.
Honestly, really disappointing considering how gentle I was on this setup after the last failure. At this point, I think it’s safe to say this motor just isn’t cut out for our style of track racing.

Now just waiting patiently for the Max6 G2 + TP Power 4060-CM 2080KV combo to arrive.
Big torque. Big cooling surface. Big hopes.

More updates coming soon.

 

[kaladeth]

When you order the TP make sure to specify an 8mm drive shaft.