Allen wrenches provided w/v4 kraton insufficient...suggestions?

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Arrma RC's
Hello I'm new to the hobby world and this is my 1st. I'm unsure if this is the right place for this posting as it's tool related....I just bought v4 Kraton, haven't run it yet, and was changing the pinion to the provided upgraded 15T. I was following the instruction manual for this process starts on page 32 and I noticed that page 33 was blank

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and should not be. However I feel that at this point I can figure it out it seems simple enough and if not I can always revert to YouTube or the forums. Per the Instruction manual I'm to use a Allen wrench to remove the 2 screws holding the Bracket That hold the motor in place.

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However I have been unable to loosen the screws and I am familiar with lefty loosey righty tighty. I have tried using the provided Allen wrench (2.5m), my own U.S 2.5, and a metric 3/32 Allen wrench...with no luck.

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The screw seemed to strip right from off the bat when I m.n first tried with the included 2.5m. Any suggestions on how I can remove these to change my pinion as well as how to prevent having related issues moving forward? Thanks in advance for any advice given!
 
Hello I'm new to the hobby world and this is my 1st. I'm unsure if this is the right place for this posting as it's tool related....I just bought v4 Kraton, haven't run it yet, and was changing the pinion to the provided upgraded 15T. I was following the instruction manual for this process starts on page 32 and I noticed that page 33 was blank View attachment 34742and should not be. However I feel that at this point I can figure it out it seems simple enough and if not I can always revert to YouTube or the forums. Per the Instruction manual I'm to use a Allen wrench to remove the 2 screws holding the Bracket That hold the motor in place. View attachment 34743However I have been unable to loosen the screws and I am familiar with lefty loosey righty tighty. I have tried using the provided Allen wrench (2.5m), my own U.S 2.5, and a metric 3/32 Allen wrench...with no luck.View attachment 34745 The screw seemed to strip right from off the bat when I m.n first tried with the included 2.5m. Any suggestions on how I can remove these to change my pinion as well as how to prevent having related issues moving forward? Thanks in advance for any advice given!
MIP drivers. Best hex drivers out there. Never use the stock Allen wrenches. Or any Allen key for that matter.

To remove the stripped screws, use a dremel with a cutting disk and slot the screw head right down the middle. Then use a flat head screwdriver to remove. Heat the screw up first with a mini torch. My guess is they globbed on the red loctite. The hear will melt it. Always heat screws that go into metal. You can use the tip of a soldering iron as well.
 
MIP drivers. Best hex drivers out there. Never use the stock Allen wrenches. Or any Allen key for that matter.

To remove the stripped screws, use a dremel with a cutting disk and slot the screw head right down the middle. Then use a flat head screwdriver to remove. Heat the screw up first with a mini torch. My guess is they globbed on the red loctite. The hear will melt it. Always heat screws that go into metal. You can use the tip of a soldering iron as well.
Thanks Bickety. To be clear...heat the screws I'm putting back in before I insert or always prior to removal? Wont that expand them a little and cause issues with fitting them on? I don't see any dried loctite but I can only see the screw head at this point.
Off to get MIP drivers and fine my dremel and torch...although around the engine & plastic i think the soldering iron is more percise...
 
Thanks Bickety. To be clear...heat the screws I'm putting back in before I insert or always prior to removal? Wont that expand them a little and cause issues with fitting them on? I don't see any dried loctite but I can only see the screw head at this point.
Off to get MIP drivers and fine my dremel and torch...although around the engine & plastic i think the soldering iron is more percise...
Heat before you remove unless you are 100% sure there isn't loctite on the screw. Going back in, use blue loctite and let it cure.
 
Don't heat going back together. Just a dab of loctite and tighten it down. Just put the tip of a soldering iron on the screw head for a few minutes and heat up the screw next time u want to get it out
 
Yep invest in a set of MIP drivers. I also got a 2.5mm MIP ball driver to use with my drill. Makes taking them out/in faster. Just don't use drill to seat them completely, do the final tightening by hand. One of my cars has way too many screws to take out just to work on it. The drill works perfect for that. ARRMA on the other hand make maintenance very easy, less screws. Wish they were all like that.
 
Yep invest in a set of MIP drivers. I also got a 2.5mm MIP ball driver to use with my drill. Makes taking them out/in faster. Just don't use drill to seat them completely, do the final tightening by hand. One of my cars has way too many screws to take out just to work on it. The drill works perfect for that. ARRMA on the other hand make maintenance very easy, less screws. Wish they were all like that.
Yes this V4 Kraton seems to make getting to things efficient while still providing a lot inside.
 
Heat up pretty much any screw going into metal before trying to remove it on any Arrma vehicle. And don't forget that you heated up the screw lol.
Yep, works awesome on spurs. Did that once and after I loosened the spur, it slipped off and landed on my crotch. Thank goodness I was wearing jeans at that time.
 
Thanks, will do. A bit bummed Arrma calls for 5 sizes of hex driver & I only see MIP selling packs up to 4 sizes.
I would really only worry about getting good 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm wrenches. I can't remember where the 3.0mm is used (tells you how common the 3.0mm hardware is) and I believe that the 5.0mm is only used on the hub nuts.

Also, when you get into the larger sizes of hexes it also isn't as necessary to have expensive, tight precision drivers as the chances of rounding them out goes down.
 
I would really only worry about getting good 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm wrenches. I can't remember where the 3.0mm is used (tells you how common the 3.0mm hardware is) and I believe that the 5.0mm is only used on the hub nuts.

Also, when you get into the larger sizes of hexes it also isn't as necessary to have expensive, tight precision drivers as the chances of rounding them out goes down.
Thanks!
 
I would really only worry about getting good 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm wrenches. I can't remember where the 3.0mm is used (tells you how common the 3.0mm hardware is) and I believe that the 5.0mm is only used on the hub nuts.

Also, when you get into the larger sizes of hexes it also isn't as necessary to have expensive, tight precision drivers as the chances of rounding them out goes down.
Yup my 3mm and 5mm are just Allen keys.
 
Yup my 3mm and 5mm are just Allen keys.
I have EDS for my 3mm and 5mm wrenches but the only reason for that is they get used a decent amount on my 5th scale and I wanted one matching set. Otherwise if I only did 8th scale I would just use the keys too.
 
Bought the MIP set, love them. Definitely worth it.
 
Are most of you guys with mip have the handles or non?
I always go for the 1/4" drive bits. Then I can use whatever handle I want as well as my electric driver. I haven't bought a "hand" tool in 15 years. But I have tried quite a few brands of the 1/4" drive bits. After watching the "Tool advice" thread, I may try a set of PB Swiss, although, they are kind of short and fat... but still might be worth giving a shot.
https://shop.pbtools.us/PB-E6-210-1-4-Hex-Key-Power-Bits_c222.htm
 
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