Kraton Almost 2 Years with my Kraton: My Review

[bicketybam]

In July it will be two years since I purchased my first Arrma 6S, the Arrma Kraton. I thought this would be a good time to express my thoughts. Please note that mine is a V3 and it came with the Tactic radio system. Since you can now only get it with the STX2, I will use that in my review.

I find the Kraton to be a very capable monster truggy, but it has some areas that need to be addressed. My truck came with dBoots Minokawas and I can say that I really didn't care for them at all. I bash mainly on dirt and grass. Traction was average to below average on those surfaces. On pavement it was fine. I tried many different tires over the 2 year period, from Proline Trenchers to Shockwaves to dBoots Backflips to what I currently run now: the now standard Copperhead 2's. I really like the Copperhead 2's and if you are buying a V4 you should be very pleased with the tires.

The current version comes with a radio that is been widely reported to be very poor. I have no experience with it and I never really used the Tactic it came with. But based on what I've read, the Tactic is much better. Either way, factor in a new remote just like every other Arrma truck except the ones that come with the DX2e.

I upgraded to RPM A-arms almost immediately. It's really hard for me to give an accurate assessment of the stock arms. It's also worth noting that I was a terrible driver when I got the truck. The Talion uses the same arms and I kept those stock. I've had no issues but I'm a much better driver now. My advice would be to keep the arms stock and see if you break them. I set the limit at 2 before I would commit to the softer RPM arms that tend to warp. I've had to replace a full set because of warping.

The chassis is fine for the average basher. But I have a saying: If you send the chassis will bend ? That's a fact. I've bent every factory 6S chassis. I eventually replaced it with an M2C chassis. If you like to jump your Kraton, this is almost a must upgrade

The plastic chassis braces are terrible. They must be replaced with aluminum ones, even if you have an aftermarket chassis. 7071 flexes and will snap the plastic braces. Then you bend the front center dogbone. This should be your first upgrade.

Bearings are metal shielded. They should be replaced with rubber sealed. The stock bearings will seize quickly unless you only run on pavement and in dry conditions. Actually make this your first "upgrade."

Shock towers are ok. Again this will come down to your driving ability and your type of bashing. See my earlier rule: send = bend. I bent mine early on and went with Voltage Hobbies. Now your best options are M2C and JBI. Hot Racing aren't that good.

My truck came with the V3 diffs which meant too light of oil and no shims. I went through several front and rears due to driver error. The V4 diffs come shimmed and the center diff has heavier fluid. You still need to check all the diffs for the proper amount of fluid and since you should be changing the bearing anyway, this should be done at the same time. I have V4 diffs in my Talion and I didn't add any extra shims. No issues. How long a diff lasts depends on driving skill. Landing on power/brake, self righting, and improper standing backflips will kill them. They are not bulletproof (or idiot proof ?).

The front bumper is inadequate for most beginners. I went with am RPM front bumper almost immediately and it's still going strong. It's worth noting that I run the stock "bumper" on my Talion and it's been fine. Again, driving skill factors in here.

I upgraded the stock servo to an expensive Savox. The stock servo isn't terrible but it isn't great. There are cheaper options for servo upgrades now and it's a decent investment. The truck has big tires and needs a decent servo to turn sharply. My truck came with the V3 servo saver. While it is know to loosen over time, I find it to be better than the servo saver on my V4 Talion. The new servo saver is not easily adjustable. If you can find a V3, go for that.

Stock electronics are fine. I never had an issue with the BLX 185 in my Kraton. It did run hot on the speed pinion but a fan can fix that. I eventually went with a Max6 and a Hobbystar 4092 1730 kv motor. It also needs fans. But the truck is more than capable with the BLX185 system.

The steering blocks and rear hubs are adequate. You shouldn't have issues unless you wreck hard. I went with what I think is Hot Racing's best 6S Arrma product: aluminum steering blocks and rear hubs.

The stock steering rack (Ackerman plate) will bend on the first one front wheel landing. It's cheap 6061 aluminum. See my earlier rule about sending and bending. Go with the M2C if you want to jump. Or you can just wait until it bends.

The wing mount isn't bad at all. The trick is not landing on it ? Do not get an aluminum one. RPM will break with a big hit just like the stock one. People have suggested boiling the stock one. I never have and once I learned how to not land on the wing it has been fine.

I upgraded my servo mount because they was the group think at the time. @Jerry-rigged has a good solution for the stock mount which basically calls for longer screws through the chassis. I think an aluminum mount is a luxury upgrade and not necessary.

I've had great luck with shock rod ends and the stock standoffs. Yes I've broken them both but I'd say they were deserved. It's important to set your droop properly. You can upgrade to the HD Nero rod ends (or Tekno) but I don't think it a must. M2C makes upgraded standoffs but I've seen them break too (right, @Outcastblxnut?).

I've upgraded all of the suspension mounts. Did I need to? No. I would do these if you have a problem repeatedly breaking them. M2C has a really nice solution.

Shocks have been fine for me. They do their job and work well. You can get better performance out of them with the M2C pistons but casual users won't notice the difference. Luxury upgrade for sure.

Stock pillow ball retainers cross thread easily and the V3 version would tend to back out. My Hot Racing steering blocks/hubs came with their retainers and they are awesome. I run the M2C retainers on my Talion (it has the stock steering blocks/hubs) and they also work very well.

The V3 body wasn't very durable. The rear body posts would always tear the rear mounting holes. The new V4 body and body posts are different and it helps to a degree. You really need to reinforce the body, especially if you bash hard or terribly ?

There is a lot of slop that is inherent to all the Arrma trucks. They are bashers, not track stars. There are mods to tighten it up but I am fine with it. The 6S trucks do steer better than the 3S/4S trucks.

I think that covers everything but if I missed something or if you have a question please feel free to chime in ? Overall I am very pleased with the Kraton 6S. If you are just a regular casual basher it really doesn't need much besides metal chassis braces and rubber sealed bearings. If you like to go big or if you struggle with your driving (or both!) it will need some upgrades. People will debate if it's a better value than the Tekno kits because if you go full on upgrade with the Kraton it's pretty close to the cost of the Tekno kit with a basic radio and electronics. Personally I don't regret buying it one bit. It really does everything well and is considered the king of the 6S lineup. While I love my Talion, it would be hard to argue against the Kraton. If you understand your driver skills and know of the Kraton's few weaknesses, you will be very pleased with your purchase. I know I am ???

 

[Slevin]

Very awesome assessment!! I basically concur with all of it.

 

[bicketybam]

Very awesome assessment!! I basically concur with all of it.

Thanks, brother! I know I'm known as an Arrma nutswinger but I try to call it as I see it ? I don't always get it right but I try ?

 

[FlipSide]

My truck came with the V3 servo saver. While it is know to loosen over time, I find it to be better than the servo saver on my V4 Talion. The new servo saver is not easily adjustable. If you can find a V3, go for that.

Excellent review that will be very helpful for many people looking for info on that truck. If you want to add your thoughts on the need for the T2T brace, I think that would complement this review nicely.

Regarding the V4 servo saver, it is worth mentionning that adding a couple of 1/2" snap ring to preload the spring in the servo saver is a nice low-cost fix for the poor steering characteristics due to the stock V4 servo saver.

 

[bicketybam]

Excellent review that will be very helpful for many people looking for info on that truck. If you want to add your thoughts on the need for the T2T brace, I think that would complement this review nicely.

Regarding the V4 servo saver, it is worth mentionning that adding a couple of 1/2" snap ring to preload the spring in the servo saver is a nice low-cost fix for the poor steering characteristics due to the stock V4 servo saver.

My truck didn't come with a top brace and I did what what everybody else did at the time. I fabricated a tower to tower brace. I hated the way it looked at it scratched up my beautiful Voltage Hobbies towers ? As far and the V4 models, I'm not sold on the added brace. I think it adds a sense of security and that's about it. I even seem people say that it actually hurts as it will bend the rear of the chassis. If you go with an aftermarket chassis and chassis braces, the only thing it's good for is a handle.

I did allude to the V4 mount being "adjustable." And since th V3 servo savers are probably long gone by now it makes sense to mention that you can tighten it up by adding spacers. Good call ???

 

[Outcastblxnut]

In July it will be two years since I purchased my first Arrma 6S, the Arrma Kraton. I thought this would be a good time to express my thoughts. Please note that mine is a V3 and it came with the Tactic radio system. Since you can now only get it with the STX2, I will use that in my review.

I find the Kraton to be a very capable monster truggy, but it has some areas that need to be addressed. My truck came with dBoots Minokawas and I can say that I really didn't care for them at all. I bash mainly on dirt and grass. Traction was average to below average on those surfaces. On pavement it was fine. I tried many different tires over the 2 year period, from Proline Trenchers to Shockwaves to dBoots Backflips to what I currently run now: the now standard Copperhead 2's. I really like the Copperhead 2's and if you are buying a V4 you should be very pleased with the tires.

The current version comes with a radio that is been widely reported to be very poor. I have no experience with it and I never really used the Tactic it came with. But based on what I've read, the Tactic is much better. Either way, factor in a new remote just like every other Arrma truck except the ones that come with the DX2e.

I upgraded to RPM A-arms almost immediately. It's really hard for me to give an accurate assessment of the stock arms. It's also worth noting that I was a terrible driver when I got the truck. The Talion uses the same arms and I kept those stock. I've had no issues but I'm a much better driver now. My advice would be to keep the arms stock and see if you break them. I set the limit at 2 before I would commit to the softer RPM arms that tend to warp. I've had to replace a full set because of warping.

The chassis is fine for the average basher. But I have a saying: If you send the chassis will bend ? That's a fact. I've bent every factory 6S chassis. I eventually replaced it with an M2C chassis. If you like to jump your Kraton, this is almost a must upgrade

The plastic chassis braces are terrible. They must be replaced with aluminum ones, even if you have an aftermarket chassis. 7071 flexes and will snap the plastic braces. Then you bend the front center dogbone. This should be your first upgrade.

Bearings are metal shielded. They should be replaced with rubber sealed. The stock bearings will seize quickly unless you only run on pavement and in dry conditions. Actually make this your first "upgrade."

Shock towers are ok. Again this will come down to your driving ability and your type of bashing. See my earlier rule: send = bend. I bent mine early on and went with Voltage Hobbies. Now your best options are M2C and JBI. Hot Racing aren't that good.

My truck came with the V3 diffs which meant too light of oil and no shims. I went through several front and rears due to driver error. The V4 diffs come shimmed and the center diff has heavier fluid. You still need to check all the diffs for the proper amount of fluid and since you should be changing the bearing anyway, this should be done at the same time. I have V4 diffs in my Talion and I didn't add any extra shims. No issues. How long a diff lasts depends on driving skill. Landing on power/brake, self righting, and improper standing backflips will kill them. They are not bulletproof (or idiot proof ?).

The front bumper is inadequate for most beginners. I went with am RPM front bumper almost immediately and it's still going strong. It's worth noting that I run the stock "bumper" on my Talion and it's been fine. Again, driving skill factors in here.

I upgraded the stock servo to an expensive Savox. The stock servo isn't terrible but it isn't great. There are cheaper options for servo upgrades now and it's a decent investment. The truck has big tires and needs a decent servo to turn sharply. My truck came with the V3 servo saver. While it is know to loosen over time, I find it to be better than the servo saver on my V4 Talion. The new servo saver is not easily adjustable. If you can find a V3, go for that.

Stock electronics are fine. I never had an issue with the BLX 185 in my Kraton. It did run hot on the speed pinion but a fan can fix that. I eventually went with a Max6 and a Hobbystar 4092 1730 kv motor. It also needs fans. But the truck is more than capable with the BLX185 system.

The steering blocks and rear hubs are adequate. You shouldn't have issues unless you wreck hard. I went with what I think is Hot Racing's best 6S Arrma product: aluminum steering blocks and rear hubs.

The stock steering rack (Ackerman plate) will bend on the first one front wheel landing. It's cheap 6061 aluminum. See my earlier rule about sending and bending. Go with the M2C if you want to jump. Or you can just wait until it bends.

The wing mount isn't bad at all. The trick is not landing on it ? Do not get an aluminum one. RPM will break with a big hit just like the stock one. People have suggested boiling the stock one. I never have and once I learned how to not land on the wing it has been fine.

I upgraded my servo mount because they was the group think at the time. @Jerry-rigged has a good solution for the stock mount which basically calls for longer screws through the chassis. I think an aluminum mount is a luxury upgrade and not necessary.

I've had great luck with shock rod ends and the stock standoffs. Yes I've broken them both but I'd say they were deserved. It's important to set your droop properly. You can upgrade to the HD Nero rod ends (or Tekno) but I don't think it a must. M2C makes upgraded standoffs but I've seen them break too (right, @Outcastblxnut?).

I've upgraded all of the suspension mounts. Did I need to? No. I would do these if you have a problem repeatedly breaking them. M2C has a really nice solution.

Shocks have been fine for me. They do their job and work well. You can get better performance out of them with the M2C pistons but casual users won't notice the difference. Luxury upgrade for sure.

Stock pillow ball retainers cross thread easily and the V3 version would tend to back out. My Hot Racing steering blocks/hubs came with their retainers and they are awesome. I run the M2C retainers on my Talion (it has the stock steering blocks/hubs) and they also work very well.

The V3 body wasn't very durable. The rear body posts would always tear the rear mounting holes. The new V4 body and body posts are different and it helps to a degree. You really need to reinforce the body, especially if you bash hard or terribly ?

There is a lot of slop that is inherent to all the Arrma trucks. They are bashers, not track stars. There are mods to tighten it up but I am fine with it. The 6S trucks do steer better than the 3S/4S trucks.

I think that covers everything but if I missed something or if you have a question please feel free to chime in ? Overall I am very pleased with the Kraton 6S. If you are just a regular casual basher it really doesn't need much besides metal chassis braces and rubber sealed bearings. If you like to go big or if you struggle with your driving (or both!) it will need some upgrades. People will debate if it's a better value than the Tekno kits because if you go full on upgrade with the Kraton it's pretty close to the cost of the Tekno kit with a basic radio and electronics. Personally I don't regret buying it one bit. It really does everything well and is considered the king of the 6S lineup. While I love my Talion, it would be hard to argue against the Kraton. If you understand your driver skills and know of the Kraton's few weaknesses, you will be very pleased with your purchase. I know I am ???

Great review. I think this goes for all the 6s line up(maybe not the typhon so much). As for the m2c standoffs. Don’t waste your money ???????

 

[Be Ready]

I know it's a different Animal ... But how does the Mojave compare to the Kraton 6S V4?

 

[Bigtim29]

Could you do one about the talion ?

 

[bicketybam]

I know it's a different Animal ... But how does the Mojave compare to the Kraton 6S V4?

I've only owned my Mojave for a short time. From what I've seen so far, the chassis and shock towers will bend like the Kraton's if you send it. You also need to replace the plastic chassis braces with aluminum. I did that as well as installing the stiffest optional springs and sway bars. Everything else is stock including the servo. The body post mounts will break if you roof land (or bash really hard). There are plastic "springs" in the front and rear bumper assemblies that will break if you hit the bumpers hard enough. Arms seem super durable. The body will get beat up like most SCT bodies.

As far as driving experience, they are very different. The Mojave doesn't jump all that well. If you end up nose down it's very hard to bring the nose back up. You can flip it but it barely makes it. Mine doesn't wheelie with the stock tires. It drives like a short course truck because it basically is one. It has a plush suspension and it will soak up the bumps. It tends to traction roll with the stock springs and sway bars. I feel it needs more room to run than the Kraton.

Could you do one about the talion ?

My review of the Talion would be almost identical. As far as durability, everything I said about the Kraton applies to the Talion. I love the stock Katars. I believe they are the perfect tire for this truggy. The Talion is more balanced that the Kraton. It's easier to jump far without having it rotate on you. It is lower to the ground and it handles better. The shocks are very stiff. The Kraton will tackle rougher terrain better due to its increased ground clearance. The Talion was the last of the 1/8 scale 6S trucks I bought because I didn't really want a speed rig. But when I bought it I quickly realized that this truck is more than just a speed truggy. It's basically a true truggy that handles and jumps great. It's probably my favorite 1/8 scale Arrma.

 

[Hoss81]

I should write a similar epilogue about my V1 Kraton. I've had it for......5 yrs now. Good and well thought out.
I find it odd that some of the "Standard" problems every has had, I have not. I've only bent 1 chassis and that's because I ran full speed into the corner of a building on 6S with a 18T pinion. I was letting a buddy drive it and he I guess thought he could make a sharp turn on power.

Other than that though, I have had almost zero issues with my V1. My biggest problem is steering slop, if I go backwards the wheels just wag back and forth uncontrollably.

 

[SarsK9]

@bicketybam what’s your take on the Kraton being more popular than the talion? It appears the talion would handle most of what someone would throw at it, it seems to float through the air and handle like a dream. The thing I see the most is the talion is kinda fugly, needs a body and decal redesign and the Kraton looks good.

 

[bicketybam]

@bicketybam what’s your take on the Kraton being more popular than the talion? It appears the talion would handle most of what someone would throw at it, it seems to float through the air and handle like a dream. The thing I see the most is the talion is kinda fugly, needs a body and decal redesign and the Kraton looks good.

What deterred me from initially buying a Talion was my misconception that it was simply a speed rig meant for the street it groomed dirt. Arrma actually labels it a "speed truggy." That was a big turnoff for me. It wasn't until I saw videos of it, specifically @RC DUDE81's, that I realized it was very capable in the dirt and in the air.