Outcast Aluminum Bulkheads Feedback

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Sykobabble

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Hello all. I'm wondering what experience everyone has in running aluminum bulkhead and the benefits or downsides to running them either front or rear. Feel free to answer with any information, I would like to discuss. Thanks much and good year to all.
 
There are differing opinions. Some say aftermarket bulkheads make it more difficult to properly shim the ring and pinion. I’ve never had an issue with the factory bulkheads, so I typically run them with a HR bulkhead cover only for bearing support. Your results may vary. I’m sure others will chime in.
 
I say there great.. if you don't wreck!! 🤣
Just my opinion
Im reading that the stock bulkheads tend to break. Ive had issues with a few and a buddy just broke a newish one. Im also reading you can get more gear life out of them?
 
I have switched all of mine to aluminum my V1 has vitavons and my kraton had hot racing. I got rid of the kraton but kept the hot racing bulkhead and put them on my V2… I have no complaints from either company. Just don’t buy the Amazon cheap ones!
 
I've had zero problems with alu bulkheads. Worthwhile upgrade in my opinion. The stock bulkheads can crack and have screws pull out etc etc. Never again since upgrading. Like em so much I bought a bunch of the cheap ones from china and they've been great.
 
I've had zero problems with alu bulkheads. Worthwhile upgrade in my opinion. The stock bulkheads can crack and have screws pull out etc etc. Never again since upgrading. Like em so much I bought a bunch of the cheap ones from china and they've been great.

Oh?
Would you mind to share a link or thread?
 
I've had zero problems with alu bulkheads. Worthwhile upgrade in my opinion. The stock bulkheads can crack and have screws pull out etc etc. Never again since upgrading. Like em so much I bought a bunch of the cheap ones from china and they've been great.
Must have gotten a good batch. The ones I had bought needed between 4 to 6 shims
 
Must have gotten a good batch. The ones I had bought needed between 4 to 6 shims
All of mine needed shims but more like 2-4. Shims cost peanuts and are easily added though.
Oh?
Would you mind to share a link or thread?
There is a thread around here somewhere but

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...28mXmHL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

Every time I break a stock one it gets replaced with one of these. I think I've bought 12 of them so far lol.
 
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All of mine needed shims but more like 2-4. Shims cost peanuts and are easily added though.

There is a thread around here somewhere but

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...28mXmHL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

Every time I break a stock one it gets replaced with one of these. I think I've bought 12 of them so far lol.
Indeed it’s cheap to shim. But it’s about the quality imo. I don’t want to use that many shims when I’m running 120s to 140s. But should be fine though for you!
 
Dang it! I wish I went w those vs. These integy ones. Vitavon and HR is a lil pricey to me right now, so I settled. Oh well, I'm sure they'll last til I have to replace em? 🤦‍♂️
 
Dang it! I wish I went w those vs. These integy ones. Vitavon and HR is a lil pricey to me right now, so I settled. Oh well, I'm sure they'll last til I have to replace em? 🤦‍♂️
Should be fine. They seem to have the same design/look as the hot racing
 
Appreciate all the replies! Anyone notice better life out of the gears or less breakages?
 
For those interested:

I've reached out to Wendy @ Treal on a limited production run of clear anodized or unfinished bulkheads for a group buy if anyone is interested. Black or Red(backordered) doesn't fly with my schemes. Waiting to hear back on quantity minimum and pricing(should technically be less without a 5 step treatment), I'll start a new thread with more details.

And yes, those of us spinning carriers 4-5000+ rpm on speed running will definitely get more longevity using an alloy case. Measure/feel your axial play before a long pass or heavy bash, then measure when that plastic case is warm/hot. If your mesh isn't perfect between ring gear/input, there is enough deflection to possibly cause disengagement between teeth especially if they are well used.

Thanks,
Tim
 
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Only person I know of is @Devin who used them in his Kraton build. He seemed to be pretty much married to Treal parts and avidly defended them, but his front Treal diff needed grinding IIRC to get the gears to seat properly and the rear one took several shims on the ring and pinion to get it good.
For those interested:

I've reached out to Wendy @ Treal on a limited production run of clear anodized or unfinished bulkheads for a group buy if anyone is interested. Black or Red(backordered) doesn't fly with my schemes. Waiting to hear back on quantity minimum and pricing(should technically be less without a 5 step treatment), I'll start a new thread with more details.

And yes, those of us spinning carriers 4-5000+ rpm on speed running will definitely get more longevity using an alloy case. Measure/feel your axial play before a long pass or heavy bash, then measure when that plastic case is warm/hot. If your mesh isn't perfect between ring gear/input, there is enough deflection to possibly cause disengagement between teeth especially if they are well used.

Thanks,
Tim
I’d be interested in doing this if I knew their manufacturing issue got worked out. Not really feeling it when faced with the possibility of grinding a $60.00 bulkhead to get the gears in it, or having to use multiple shims. I know it beats the price (Vitavon’s are $90.00) but I’m going to wait until some actual, trustworthy reviews start coming in for them. I really want to like Treal (some of their pieces look beautifully machined and are sexy AF) but they’re very new to the Arrma line.
And yes, those of us spinning carriers 4-5000+ rpm on speed running will definitely get more longevity using an alloy case. Measure/feel your axial play before a long pass or heavy bash, then measure when that plastic case is warm/hot. If your mesh isn't perfect between ring gear/input, there is enough deflection to possibly cause disengagement between teeth especially if they are well used.

Thanks,
Tim
I’ve taken the opposite approach that has been recommended here, and that is to retain the stock bulkheads and use the HR billet bulkhead covers only, which strengthen the structure and helps stop any deformation around the bearing carriers. It’s worked for me very well so far, but I’m not running over 100mph, either.
 
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Indeed it’s cheap to shim. But it’s about the quality imo. I don’t want to use that many shims when I’m running 120s to 140s. But should be fine though for you!
Yea that is definitely understandable. I'll probably end up trying 120 with them at some point though 🤣. Honestly I've never had a reason to change to alu bulkhead for an on road car. I totally remember you melting bulkhead plastic at the bearing or something though.

All my experience with these bulkheads is from bashing. I remember one bad landing I had the whole rear end off my kraton came off the chassis. I was so done with plastic bulkheads after that 🤣
 
Yea that is definitely understandable. I'll probably end up trying 120 with them at some point though 🤣. Honestly I've never had a reason to change to alu bulkhead for an on road car. I totally remember you melting bulkhead plastic at the bearing or something though.

All my experience with these bulkheads is from bashing. I remember one bad landing I had the whole rear end off my kraton came off the chassis. I was so done with plastic bulkheads after that 🤣
Indeed. But it was also user error. For the most part. Regardless aluminum or plastic. It’s eventually going to break/deform after a few wrecks. One of my hot racing bulkhead is badly deformed from a wreck 😂
 
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