Fireteam Am I the only one who has trouble getting the body on this rig?

[Bolshevikjoe]

Had a fully charged 6s pack and didn't want to let it set fully charged and even though it's 38 degrees, a blast around the yard and hitting the ramps a few time would be nice. Why is it that 80% of the time I can't get this damn body to go on right? Like, either the front or rear hole just won't find the post and I spend 20 minutes fiddling with it before I just angrily put it back on the shelf and go make this post. lol Any tricks to avoid this frustration?

 

[Fishtank]

yes, it took me awhile to figure out how to get it all lined up underneath. I ended up zip tying my connector to the center brace and removing the support that goes on the center motor mount. its tight under the hood.

 

[Bolshevikjoe]

yes, it took me awhile to figure out how to get it all lined up underneath. I ended up zip tying my connector to the center brace and removing the support that goes on the center motor mount. its tight under the hood.

My gut/how much things were flexing when I'd get pissed off and try to persuade things into place made me think the center front of the rig might be where I was getting bound up. Good to have confirmation on that.

 

[SrC]

You guys are doing something wrong......
I have no issues. I used a Sharpie silver pen to mark on the body sides where the side guard location pins/body locators visually line up. Helps much with installing.
If you bent your chassis or the Shock towers, the Body is harder to align and fit. This Is simply User error damage, if that's the case for you.
I would not remove any of the supporting mounts on the cage or chassis. Not even the center diff's Roll hoop.
The FT body is Keyed to the chassis is 9 places. At the 4 chassis side guard posts (body locators), 1 center roll hoop, at the 2 shock towers and the 2 bumpers.
Have patience. It does fit with a little practice. Not as easily as other Lexan bodies however. Remember that the FT body is structural to the chassis at all 9 contact areas. Many complain of this.
I say it's not much of a "thing" unless you "want" it to be. Being impatient is futile.
Need to embrace the design of the FT. Is what it is, and by design.

 

[Ferrebee88]

Sometime you gotta wiggle it a little bit and it will slip right in.

 

[Fishtank]

You guys are doing something wrong......
I have no issues. I used a Sharpie silver pen to mark on the body sides where the side guard location pins/body locators visually line up. Helps much with installing.
If you bent your chassis or the Shock towers, the Body is harder to align and fit. This Is simply User error damage, if that's the case for you.
I would not remove any of the supporting mounts on the cage or chassis. Not even the center diff's Roll hoop.
The FT body is Keyed to the chassis is 9 places. At the 4 chassis side guard posts (body locators), 1 center roll hoop, at the 2 shock towers and the 2 bumpers.
Have patience. It does fit with a little practice. Not as easily as other Lexan bodies however. Remember that the FT body is structural to the chassis at all 9 contact areas. Many complain of this.
I say it's not much of a "thing" unless you "want" it to be. Being impatient is futile.
Need to embrace the design of the FT. Is what it is, and by design.

My problem is the center tool loop doesn’t fit on the PPS mount it’s like the mount is to long.

 

[SrC]

^^^
Can you show us a picture what you are saying?
Did you reverse the roll hoop by accident perhaps. Because with the FT, the Roll hoop goes on backwards compared to every other 6s rig equipped with a roll hoop. Pin clips are installed at the front compared to the rear on all the other 6s rigs. Just one idea. Trying to help.
Maybe you got the wrong PPS center diff top cover??? IDK. The center diff and has not changed on the FT. That I am aware of??? Maybe the top cover has?? And have the wrong PPS top cover for a FT's roll hoop.

 

[SrC]

Sometime you gotta wiggle it a little bit and it will slip right in.

I never have a hard time getting it in the hole.
Always slips in.

My gut/how much things were flexing when I'd get pissed off and try to persuade things into place made me think the center front of the rig might be where I was getting bound up. Good to have confirmation on that.

It's usually where the cage engages onto the F and R shock towers where it gets caught up and is tight fitting, IMHO. Body posts will slide right in, if the towers line up to the cage just right.
Not many notice that the towers also lock into the Cage. How I see it...

 

[Fishtank]

^^^
Can you show us a picture what you are saying?
Did you reverse the roll hoop by accident perhaps. Because with the FT, the Roll hoop goes on backwards compared to every other 6s rig equipped with a roll hoop. Pin clips are installed at the front compared to the rear on all the other 6s rigs. Just one idea. Trying to help.
Maybe you got the wrong PPS center diff top cover??? IDK. The center diff and has not changed on the FT. That I am aware of??? Maybe the top cover has?? And have the wrong PPS top cover for a FT's roll hoop.

I have the right mount. I get it to fit I think my loop is warped also. but I cant get one bolt in without removing my motor fans but I could get it to fit for sure. I’m going to run it without the center loop I’m not going to launch this vehicle anyway it’s to heavy. Plus I love the way it drives straight Under throttle and still kraton’esque in its handling. It really does drive great like a lightweight K8. I think thats why I like my XL kratons so much.

 

[SrC]

Yeah if you can't get both steel pins through the roll hoop, then the Hoop is useless in supporting the cage. Also, your rather nice fan setup is probably causing some tight fitting issues at the right side chassis guard's rear most Location pin. Can you rotate the fan mount to the left mores so for better clearance?
Just some ideas. Nice rig there.

 

[KevinC]

I've found with this rig......
If the chassis is the least bit jacked, it's a toughie to get the body on.
If you have a fan(s) on your motor that's slightly angled downward like the pic above, under heavy landings the fan mount will migrate downwards (gravity sucks) creating a conflict with the body mount pylons.

I did ream out the front and rear body mounts a tad (1 front, 2 back) for a bit more clearance.
One more thing I just noticed on my body......I zip tied the body panel to the skeleton to make it seat better over the pylon, because the panel can get in the way of proper alignment. Hard to explain without pics. Will add a few in an edit....

 

[SrC]

+1 .
All very good points.

 

[KevinC]

Ok, so here’s a few things I did. You gotta suck that body panel towards the skeleton or that pesky panel will hit squarely on top of the pylon. Do this with a zip tie. Yes this requires drilling through the body……function over form for me.

I reamed out the body mount holes a tiny bit to allow some latitude for the posts. The top panel has been fitted with zip ties for integrity and has nothing to do with the original post but I thought to point it out.

Schit, I’m two posts away from 2000….
nerd alert

 

[Fishtank]

Yeah if you can't get both steel pins through the roll hoop, then the Hoop is useless in supporting the cage. Also, your rather nice fan setup is probably causing some tight fitting issues at the right side chassis guard's rear most Location pin. Can you rotate the fan mount to the left mores so for better clearance?
Just some ideas. Nice rig there.

Thanks, The fans clear everything it’s hard to see in the pictures. I was trying to put the center loop on backwards because of the fan mount. Like I said I’m not going to be launching this thing so I’m not to worried about having the center loop. not that big a deal for me.