Kraton Amazon suspension mounts

[dure16]

Yeah man let me know. Appreciate it.

Agree

 

[Saltystevo]

I got these from ebay and seem pretty stout!

Any reviews on these? They are like half the cost of the higher end options here. And I just noticed for $3 more Allstate insures them for 3 years 100%

I had to edit and adjust price as j was comparing to a kit price which included the hinge pins from m2c.

 

[Saltystevo]

My favorite are Custom Rc Upgrades View attachment 288584

This setup would be okay if you were running on a track where the level of force from jumping would be less extreme. The Typhon TLR uses similar inserts to be able to adjust toe and caster, but after trying them on my basher Typhon, I soon realized that they can't handle anything at a basher level. In the end, something will have to give. The hinge pin, the arm or the mount. The mount takes the longest to replace, so I prefer the weak point to be one of the other two. Again, this is in regards to a more extreme bashing style. Same goes for center braces. Plastic will suffice to a point, but upgrading to metal allows us to go harder on the jumps with less chance of bending the chassis. It all depends on how hard or high you plan to take your truck/buggy.

Does Custom RC offer hinge pins or do you use stocks?

 

[slick2500]

Any reviews on these? They are like half the cost of the higher end options here. And I just noticed for $3 more Allstate insures them for 3 years 100%

I had to edit and adjust price as j was comparing to a kit price which included the hinge pins from m2c.

I've been wondering about those too. It's so hard to tell from the pictures if those use those stupid inserts or if they are just machined holes.

 

[Saltystevo]

I've been wondering about those too. It's so hard to tell from the pictures if those use those stupid inserts or if they are just machined holes.

I only see a drilled hole when I blow up picture.

 

[Garcbomber]

I've been wondering about those too. It's so hard to tell from the pictures if those use those stupid inserts or if they are just machined holes.

Have had them on my heaviest 6S rig for over a year, personally would not use anything else on a replacement or ground up build. Red threadlock on the B/C block set screws, blue on the A/D for arm replacement removal. Preventing those pins from rotating is a huge benefit for suspension articulation IMO.

The pin bore is machined 6061 and a nice slip fit with retainment option similar to the Arrma EXB upper front block. If you wanted to machine a groove or flat in the pin you could, but I felt it was unnecessary.

 

[Saltystevo]

Have had them on my heaviest 6S rig for over a year, personally would not use anything else on a replacement or ground up build. Red threadlock on the B/C block set screws, blue on the A/D for arm replacement removal. Preventing those pins from rotating is a huge benefit for suspension articulation IMO.

The pin bore is machined 6061 and a nice slip fit with retainment option similar to the Arrma EXB upper front block. If you wanted to machine a groove or flat in the pin but I felt it was unnecessary.

On ebay there are multiple sellers. Do you have the ones from the link posted?
What's the B/C and A/D?

 

[Garcbomber]

On ebay there are multiple sellers. Do you have the ones from the link posted?
What's the B/C and A/D?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844596559...8NIJKX-TNq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The (4) lower hinge pin blocks starting from the front are characterized by A-D. Mine are Mojave specific for bumper mount integration, I do not think Kraton will be different. Anything is better than the cheap stamped steel thin retainers.

 

[Saltystevo]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844596559...8NIJKX-TNq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The (4) lower hinge pin blocks starting from the front are characterized by A-D. Mine are Mojave specific for bumper mount integration, I do not think Kraton will be different. Anything is better than the cheap stamped steel thin retainers.

Wow $23 for all 4. And what did you use in place of factory pins? I'm confused about you saying to loctite them and preventing the pins from rotating is a good thing. Thanks for the help

 

[Garcbomber]

Wow $23 for all 4. And what did you use in place of factory pins? I'm confused about you saying to loctite them and preventing the pins from rotating is a good thing. Thanks for the help

The blocks have tapped holes perpendicular to the pin bore so you can lock them in with a set screw. Helps with assembly preventing the arm/pin from falling out too while you're manipulating and aligning everything.

 

[Saltystevo]

The blocks have tapped holes perpendicular to the pin bore so you can lock them in with a set screw. Helps with assembly preventing the arm/pin from falling out too while you're manipulating and aligning everything.

Oooooh, okay. And how exactly is locking the pin better for suspension vs having it spin?
And are you using stock pins?

 

[Notorious J]

Does Custom RC offer hinge pins or do you use stocks?

I use stocks. The holes are machined and don't use the capture method of say an M2C Racing mount

 

[Garcbomber]

Oooooh, okay. And how exactly is locking the pin better for suspension vs having it spin?
And are you using stock pins?

Pin steel is harder than the 6061 alloy so it will eventually egg the hole out, I'd rather the composite arm bore create the suspension articulation rather than the pin rotating in the containment blocks. It's just clearance slop and not critical on a basher.

 

[slick2500]

Have had them on my heaviest 6S rig for over a year, personally would not use anything else on a replacement or ground up build. Red threadlock on the B/C block set screws, blue on the A/D for arm replacement removal. Preventing those pins from rotating is a huge benefit for suspension articulation IMO.

The pin bore is machined 6061 and a nice slip fit with retainment option similar to the Arrma EXB upper front block. If you wanted to machine a groove or flat in the pin you could, but I felt it was unnecessary.

Oh okay so they are copies of the Hot Racing design with set screws to hold the hinge pins in that is good to know as I really like the Hot Racing ones I've had on my Outcast since 2018.

I use stocks. The holes are machined and don't use the capture method of say an M2C Racing mount

The stock ones are stamped or molded from plastic they are definitely not machined.

 

[Saltystevo]

Pin steel is harder than the 6061 alloy so it will eventually egg the hole out, I'd rather the composite arm bore create the suspension articulation rather than the pin rotating in the containment blocks. It's just clearance slop and not critical on a basher.

Ordered!
Thanks for the help today!
The only other thing I always broke was the rear trans case because of the wing. I recently got the rpm wing brace so hoping that'll do because the arrma diffs in aluminum are pricey.