Annoying Arrma issue

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Notoriousone

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Mojave
  3. Notorious
  4. Typhon 6s
Anyone else have this issue with Arrma vehicles, where the soft plastic wheels are jammed on so tight at the factory that the inside of the wheel literally gets grooves cut into it from the hub threads, and molds itself around the hub? This makes the wheels seriously hard to remove from the hubs, to the point of damaging the wheels. I had this issue on both my Notorious and my Typhon, I basically had to cut my V3 Typhon wheels with my Dremel just to get them off.. Not a big issue as I wasn't planning on using them anyway, but it makes me wonder if a human is putting these wheels on at the factory or a machine that is just doing it way too tight?
Another thing it seems like Arrma is fond of doing is putting crazy amounts of locktite on screws.. On some of the grub screws in my trucks I think Arrma completely dips the screw in locktite before installing.. crazy
 
A couple of wheels have been difficult to remove, but they did come off with a bit of effort.
Yeah, someone at Arrma has a real thing for loctite. I've rounded out the little screw (AR724505) that holds the wheel hex on the front left of my Talion. So when the time comes to replace the bearings (or if I break the steering block) I'll probably need to use a hacksaw and saw the wheel hex off and replace it.
 
Have heard about this problem quite a bit. I personally have had this issue with my typhon And my buddies outcast. Not my kraton though. I have heard of some people using body reamers on their wheels to kind of fix it once they get the wheel off.
 
The stock wheels on my outcast were tough to get off. Almost like the hole in the wheel was too small. The hex didn't look deformed or anything, but it was a bear getting them off. I never even ran the stock wheels/tires and have them on a shelf.
 
When the wheel nut is too tight it smushes the plastic into the threads, wheel hole ends up smaller then what it was when they put it on there.
 
Anyone else have this issue with Arrma vehicles, where the soft plastic wheels are jammed on so tight at the factory that the inside of the wheel literally gets grooves cut into it from the hub threads, and molds itself around the hub? This makes the wheels seriously hard to remove from the hubs, to the point of damaging the wheels. I had this issue on both my Notorious and my Typhon, I basically had to cut my V3 Typhon wheels with my Dremel just to get them off.. Not a big issue as I wasn't planning on using them anyway, but it makes me wonder if a human is putting these wheels on at the factory or a machine that is just doing it way too tight?
Another thing it seems like Arrma is fond of doing is putting crazy amounts of locktite on screws.. On some of the grub screws in my trucks I think Arrma completely dips the screw in locktite before installing.. crazy
Sounds like my Outcast, I just hit up the inside of the wheels with my body reamer now they actually fit. And don't get me started on the red loctite, they put loctite on the shocks...............................
 
No.

I work on real cars, so these are what they are- toys. Easy-peasy.

Wheel won't come off? Wack the inside of the rim with something, spin a bit and hit again on a different spot. Repeat and the wheel with come off with little effort.
 
No.

I work on real cars, so these are what they are- toys. Easy-peasy.

Wheel won't come off? Wack the inside of the rim with something, spin a bit and hit again on a different spot. Repeat and the wheel with come off with little effort.
While true... these are easy to break if you get too rambunctious with your repair techniques. :)

So, use a smol hammer. ;)
 
While true... these are easy to break if you get too rambunctious with your repair techniques. :)

So, use a smol hammer. ;)
Yeah you definitely don't want to use a bfh.
 
@Dutch213 had a problem with the wheels on his Typhon. I've been lucky with my 3 6s rigs. Wheels came off without issue.

My Senton, Talion and Notorious wheels all came right off.... The Typhon was not the same... They had no intention on coming off without a fight...
 
No.

I work on real cars, so these are what they are- toys. Easy-peasy.

Wheel won't come off? Wack the inside of the rim with something, spin a bit and hit again on a different spot. Repeat and the wheel with come off with little effort.
Exactly, these are toys.. made of soft plastic and thin metals, not everything that works on 1/1 cars translates over to these things. Too much force can easily bend or break parts. A plastic wheel that has become deformed because of force applied to it doesn’t respond like steel when you apply more force to it, it just breaks
 
Even real cars break real quick when ham fisted.

Doesn't take a lot of force- tap inside the wheel, while spinning the wheel around so you are working the force around the perimeter.

You will be amazed how quick it pops off. No need for a hammer- you can just use the larger T tool, same one you used to remove the wheel nut.
 
Even real cars break real quick when ham fisted.

Doesn't take a lot of force- tap inside the wheel, while spinning the wheel around so you are working the force around the perimeter.

You will be amazed how quick it pops off. No need for a hammer- you can just use the larger T tool, same one you used to remove the wheel nut.
lol i know slightly different models, but on the granite i got they were quite tight, stripped the T-tools hex drive out.
 
I don't know anything about a granite- but on my Notorious the wheel nut is 17mm, there is 0% possibility of stripping the tool before the threads...
 
the granite is a 14mm hex, and a 7mm wheel nut, the tool is plastic, just rounded out hex on the inside. doesn't really bother me as typically i just use a nut driver, but out in the field it would be nice only needing the one tool.
 
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