Kraton Another basic Newbie question
- Thread starter AT06
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Trickelitrick
Active Member
Mine is a bit strange about reverse....if going forward you must break to standstill and then reverse again to go reverse. However sometimes when standing still and trying to reverse it doesn't go backwards until quite alot of throttle used and sometimes it goes backwards very smooth instantly when using reverse.
Plantroller
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I found that once stopped leave the trigger centered for a couple seconds then go to reverse. I had the same problem until I saw someone post this somewhere else. Hope this helps.
The German
Active Member
Same with mine. Break, leave trigger in the middle for app. 1 sec, then go reverse.
gman234
Member
just got mine today also the same was also wondering is there a indicator for when my lipo is low on the beast.
Plantroller
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No indicator that I know of. The BLX185 ESC has a two stage cutoff. At I believe 3.5 there is a noticeable slowdown then full cutoff at 3.2. I haven't gone below the first stage slowdown.
The German
Active Member
I had a full cut off these days.
Switch off and on and continue for another 5 min.
Switch off and on and continue for another 5 min.
gman234
Member
cheers guys took it out for first run before am really impressed just trying to get my head around the charging of the lipos now lol complete newbie 
- Thread starter
- #9
Cheers for the help guys - thought it would be normal haha. Assume the pause is to protect the gears, etc.
Got my Kraton last Wednesday. Exact same as you, complete newbie haha! Didn't realise there was so much to learn about batteries and charging either!
cheers guys took it out for first run before am really impressed just trying to get my head around the charging of the lipos now lol complete newbie
Got my Kraton last Wednesday. Exact same as you, complete newbie haha! Didn't realise there was so much to learn about batteries and charging either!
gman234
Member
Yeah it's crazy but got to admit am loving it the guys on here are top aswell really helpful
Julian
Active Member
I went through a few dual chargers until I got the Venom Dual charger tower. 80 watts x2 - fast charge, charge, balance, etc around 20 minutes for fast charging my Lipos
Rcaddict
Member
Newb here as well but I was curious could it be that this reverse delay is intentional from Arrma? Wouldnt it reduce strain on drive train especially the spur and pinion gear.. just my noob two cents... lol
- Thread starter
- #13
Newb here as well but I was curious could it be that this reverse delay is intentional from Arrma? Wouldnt it reduce strain on drive train especially the spur and pinion gear.. just my noob two cents... lol
That's what I'm thinking - imagine something would definitely break if you went full reverse at speed.
On a separate note, does anyone know if the diff oil from factory is different weights in the front than the rear - if I spin the rear tyres they turn real smooth and easy, whereas if I spin the front they are a bit harder to turn and you can hear the gears a little.
chalmene
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From what I remember, there is a way to set the ESC to either one or two pulls on the brake before reverse. I prefer 2 pulls. Sometimes you use braking just to slow down, then brake again to stop. (example) And don't want the truck reversing unintentionally. I don't know about others, but I rarely use reverse anyway, so not a big deal. Lot of ESC's have 'racing mode' that locks out reverse completely.
c10vortec
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The Reverse settings differ between each esc manufacturer, most esc's with any programming capability have some adjustability of the drive modes. Some esc's are just more picky than others about deciding when to switch to reverse from braking, many require a complete stop before reversing. This is an example of the Hobbywing SC8's programming functions:
I have read that a hobbywing programming card works with the V2 esc's and I will be sure to try it out when my Kraton arrives Wednesday. The standard forward/brake/reverse mode is highly recommended, as forward/reverse only will substitute your brakes for immediate reversing.... prepare for stoppies and drivetrain carnage! The first mode in the SC8 chart without reverse is commonly required when in an actual track racing event.
@AT06 I believe I read that the front and rear diffs come factory with grease only and the center diff comes with some fairly thin oil. If the front diff clicks it's probably a good time to take it apart and inspect it before it decides to fail. The stock center diff set up with thin oil will send almost all of the power to the front wheels under full throttle - this is true of any center diff rc with thin oil. That extra wear from receiving most of the power could be the cause of the clicking, or it could just need shimming. Here's a website with details on how to bulletproof an Arrma diff: http://arrma-mods.simdif.com/drivetrain.html
From my understanding this is only really necessary if you love to abuse them on 6s
...sorry for writing a book
I have read that a hobbywing programming card works with the V2 esc's and I will be sure to try it out when my Kraton arrives Wednesday. The standard forward/brake/reverse mode is highly recommended, as forward/reverse only will substitute your brakes for immediate reversing.... prepare for stoppies and drivetrain carnage! The first mode in the SC8 chart without reverse is commonly required when in an actual track racing event.
@AT06 I believe I read that the front and rear diffs come factory with grease only and the center diff comes with some fairly thin oil. If the front diff clicks it's probably a good time to take it apart and inspect it before it decides to fail. The stock center diff set up with thin oil will send almost all of the power to the front wheels under full throttle - this is true of any center diff rc with thin oil. That extra wear from receiving most of the power could be the cause of the clicking, or it could just need shimming. Here's a website with details on how to bulletproof an Arrma diff: http://arrma-mods.simdif.com/drivetrain.html
From my understanding this is only really necessary if you love to abuse them on 6s
...sorry for writing a book
gman234
Member
Thanks for the help you will have to let me know if the card works
c10vortec
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The programming card worked great... after I learned how to plug the darn thing in. One wire plugs into the esc fan port, then the signal wire from the esc also plugs into the card. After a quick search online I discovered that the manual that came with the Kraton gives all of the programming options; I pulled this pic from another thread - https://arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-v2-esc-programming-with-card.1325/#post-16601
.
As you can see there are only 5 options and only 2 that we would be interested in - Punch and Brakes. I've only got 4s for time being and I decided to put the punch on 9, it's still manageable for me and much snappier, but I'll most likely dial it down for 6s. The card was handy, but for such limited tuning options I would try using the beep system first as described in the manual, that system worked well for me in the past with the SC8.
My Kraton also acts up going into reverse and had a weird creep at zero throttle that I couldn't trim out. I should have tried re-calibrating the remote, but I had anther remote I preferred on the shelf and dropped it in instead. The creeping is gone, but reverse is still finicky. I just twitch the throttle into reverse until it finally decides to move. It looks like we may be stuck with the sticky reverse engagement for now.
.
As you can see there are only 5 options and only 2 that we would be interested in - Punch and Brakes. I've only got 4s for time being and I decided to put the punch on 9, it's still manageable for me and much snappier, but I'll most likely dial it down for 6s. The card was handy, but for such limited tuning options I would try using the beep system first as described in the manual, that system worked well for me in the past with the SC8.
My Kraton also acts up going into reverse and had a weird creep at zero throttle that I couldn't trim out. I should have tried re-calibrating the remote, but I had anther remote I preferred on the shelf and dropped it in instead. The creeping is gone, but reverse is still finicky. I just twitch the throttle into reverse until it finally decides to move. It looks like we may be stuck with the sticky reverse engagement for now.
gman234
Member
Thanks will look into grabbing the card yet again thanks for letting me know enjoy your bashing .The programming card worked great... after I learned how to plug the darn thing in. One wire plugs into the esc fan port, then the signal wire from the esc also plugs into the card. After a quick search online I discovered that the manual that came with the Kraton gives all of the programming options; I pulled this pic from another thread - https://arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-v2-esc-programming-with-card.1325/#post-16601
.
As you can see there are only 5 options and only 2 that we would be interested in - Punch and Brakes. I've only got 4s for time being and I decided to put the punch on 9, it's still manageable for me and much snappier, but I'll most likely dial it down for 6s. The card was handy, but for such limited tuning options I would try using the beep system first as described in the manual, that system worked well for me in the past with the SC8.
My Kraton also acts up going into reverse and had a weird creep at zero throttle that I couldn't trim out. I should have tried re-calibrating the remote, but I had anther remote I preferred on the shelf and dropped it in instead. The creeping is gone, but reverse is still finicky. I just twitch the throttle into reverse until it finally decides to move. It looks like we may be stuck with the sticky reverse engagement for now.
ParkRacing
Active Member
I have 6 rc cars with three different brands of esc's.... they are all funny about reverse! I think you have to wait a moment after breaking as said before.