I like how straight your passes are
Not shabby for being fwd
I'm not even getting that. It instantly just bends em and tosses em. I've got deep into it and figure it out. Just haven't yet.
Check the input gear cups for wobble. I'm having a hell of a time on my new build getting them perfectly true. Maybe I'm being OCD about it, I dunno. I ordered 2 new input gears to rule those out. Think I might order the scorched cups also. On my current Limitless the front cup has a slight wobble and I can see the Scorched shaft moving some. It bothers the crap out of me but I haven't had any issues with the Scorched shafts/pinnochio spool. On the new build I'm taking my time and getting everything the way I want it.
Yea that needs a shim, or 3. What about side to side wobble? Stick a 2.5mm bit in a drill and then stick it into the wheel hex hub and spin her up. See how it looks while spinning. That's my issue.
Side to side is horrible.. I think that the bearing are done.. I've already bought a new input cup since I have to drill this one out and a new input shaft.. hopefully after this cures everything. If not. I'm just going to buy a hobao
Also buy good center shafts and that will fix your issue. Those cups are a Mfer to get off. Even after the grub comes off they're still stuck. I had to heat the crap out of the whole cup. My lower hinge pin retainer started sizzling a little.Side to side is horrible.. I think that the bearing are done.. I've already bought a new input cup since I have to drill this one out and a new input shaft.. hopefully after this cures everything. If not. I'm just going to buy a hobao
This is why I've been slacking on switching my felony rear diff. The thought of removing the input gear makes me want to stab myselfAlso buy good center shafts and that will fix your issue. Those cups are a Mfer to get off. Even after the grub comes off they're still stuck. I had to heat the crap out of the whole cup. My lower hinge pin retainer started sizzling a little.
It's work but not that bad once you get the hang of it. After the third time I folded up some tin foil and wrapped it behind the cup. It absorbed a lot of the heat so the retainer didn't sizzle anymore. A good micro torch is key. Soldering iron may work but I doubt it since they use loctite on the shaft also hence the reason I had to heat the whole cup up after I conquered the grub screw.This is why I've been slacking on switching my felony rear diff. The thought of removing the input gear makes me want to stab myself
Mine just came out. Easy minus the drilling the grub screw out since it had a ton of arrma famous locktight.... but I believe that the rear bearing are bad! They have play side to side and up and down.Also buy good center shafts and that will fix your issue. Those cups are a Mfer to get off. Even after the grub comes off they're still stuck. I had to heat the crap out of the whole cup. My lower hinge pin retainer started sizzling a little.
Sounds like it. Another reason I'm eyeing the Vitavon diff cases for the new build. I like the oversized front bearing. Figured I'd offset the weight difference by putting on CF shock towers and a few other things. Not a fan of adding aluminum but I feel like as long as I run the stock arms I'll be ok. Not like I'm bashing with it anyways. If wrecks at well over 100 its a crapshoot no matter what I'm using, IMO.
Ring is on the right while looking at it from the rear. lol. Been there done that.Mine just came out. Easy minus the drilling the grub screw out since it had a ton of arrma famous locktight.... but I believe that the rear bearing are bad! They have play side to side and up and down.
Edit. I forgot what way I took the diff out
Yeah. Not a bad idea. I going to order this instead. For now. Since the input gear is bent as well. The whole rear sounds like sand paper.. going to just ordered two of em. And be done for a while. If it does it after that though
it's a project for a reason lol
I just ordered one today also to have on hand for spare parts. And I wanted the case. The bottom right diff cover screw hole was stripped from the factory.Yeah. Not a bad idea. I going to order this instead. For now. Since the input gear is bent as well. The whole rear sounds like sand paper.. going to just ordered two of em. And be done for a while. If it does it after that though
Might as well do the front. As well
View attachment 213822
Buying the new one's from JRC was a solid choice.
Register and gain access to Discussions, Reviews, Tech Tips, How to Articles, and much more - on the largest Arrma RC community for RC enthusiasts that covers all aspects of the Arrma-RC brand!
Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!
